I have a Case 1845C. I have figured out that the fuel level sender is probably shot. I'm wondering how difficult of a job it is to replace the sender. I have looked down the filler and it seems like there is a pretty long float arm on the sender. Is it possible to snake it out without too much drama? Thanks in advance for any help you can throw my way. SimS
Installed one in an 1845C about 2 months ago. Was not a bad job at all. 1-Drain fuel tank 2-Remove muffler assembly (not that difficult but gives you lots of room to work on sender) 3-Remove 4 screws in sender mounting plate. (this sender assembly cannot be removed from fuel tank neck) 4-Remove sender-install new one-install muffler-etc.
Z2898; Thanks. Removing the muffler is a great tip. That will free up a lot of room in the engine bay next to the fuel tank. I'm going to give it a try after I get my new sender. SimS
Very Welcome SimS! Glad to help. I tried to find a jobber sender that would work instead of purchasing the $130 (CA) original. Could not find one with the correct resistance. Original reads: 86-94 ohms full and 0-3 ohms empty. Couldn't find any jobber senders that were close to this that would match original gage in cab. Ended up spending $130. Cheers!
Yes I saw the price for the sender. Yikes. I found a 0-90 ohm universal sender on fleabay. I'm hoping to adapt the universal resistor unit to the Case sender arm/bracket and save myself some bucks. We'll see if it works. I'm just hoping to monitor low to very low fuel level to prevent running out of fuel, etc. Fingers crossed. SimS
Let me know how you make out adapting the generic sender to the original. It definetly crossed my mind......and wallet. If the $9 one that I had found would have had the correct resistance it would now be floating in liquid hydrocarbons. Cheers!
Well, I finally got around to installing the generic sender on my 1845c. (Sorry for the long delay but life got in the way of my skid steer repair time) So I bought a $22 0-90 ohm "generic" fuel sender on fleabay. It is one of those long adjustable units. I stripped the new rheostat off and checked the "swing" from 0 to 90 ohms. The old and the new sender/rheostat were very close, like within a 1/4 inch or less. I removed the dead OEM rheostat from the round sender mount and clipped the OEM wire. I was left with the original round mount with an insulated wire poking out and the original bracket for mounting the rheostat. I drilled holes in the OEM bracket to match the new rheostat, hooked up the ground wire to one of the new mounting screws and soldered the rheostat wire to the OEM insulated wire. The OEM rheostat is grounded through one of its mounting rivets. When I mounted the new rheostat I made sure to place the pivot point at the same level/height on the bracket as the OEM original to mimic the same fuel level relationship with rheostat. Now the hardest part was bending and twisting the new float arm to match the OEM arm. The new arm could have been clipped/shortened and the OEM welded on but I went to the new float arm because for some reason the OEM float was chewed up and a little ratty. Anyway I bent, folded and massaged the new arm so it matched the dimensions of the OEM arm. I hooked it all up and reached into the fuel tank and raised and lowered the float arm and it registers great. I am most concerned about running out of fuel so I pushed the float arm down into the remaining fuel and it started blinking the last light just like OEM (I suppose because I never had a working gauge!) I added fuel to check the sender gasket for leaks and the fuel gauge reflected the additional fuel. I'm happy and I saved some money in the deal too. SimS