Howdy all, I bought a Case 310C. New to owning a crawler, wondering if there are any foibles or things I should look for? Or heck any stories about using these things? Was hoping to find a pdf of the operator/service manual, but no luck so far.
It would be helpful if you gave more details of what state its now in and what want to do with it. Then people with experience can help you with more specific questions. Does it currently run and steer and stop? Are you wanting to build ponds with it, trails thru the woods, clear some brush, or just paint it and show it to the grandkids? try to find the S/N (sorry I can't tell ya where to look) and post that on here, it will help a lot. and post a picture if you can, I love looking at old dozers.....
Welcome to HEF, A_Man
Google search for "Case terratrac 310c crawlers". Manuals show up there. TRADEBIT shows PARTS manuals. The old 310/350 were a handy small crawler. The steering was their worst feature. You need to use the correct oil in the steering system. steeringclutch.com sells aftermarket parts.
Howdy Kyfarm, it does run, but needs some work, looks like engine is idling high, and the track-sprocket nut fell off. Someone had bodged it back on, and I don't want to move it until I get that sorted... Took a video to document repairs. I did not have a script, so it is a bit rambly. https://www.bitchute.com/video/021pG1z8s7x4/ As you can see it is the backhoe model, ponds are in the future among other things (Grandkids being way way in the future ) SN is 40326xx Thanks, wish I picked a better name, but it seemed clever when I was tired. Nothing on a free pdf, I find it bothersome that all these places try to scam you on downloads; may just have to buy one. Feels grubby to pay for a public domain doc, but I may have to do it.
wow, that is quite a machine. I strongly recommend getting an owners AND a repair manual for it regardless of the cost, they will both pay for themselves ten times over. If you can't find new ones try e-bay. I also don't trust any of the "download" sites, I think they are all scams. It is very important to find the serial number first though so you are sure you are getting the proper manual. What you will end up with is probably a manual for just the tractor, not the attachments. They will probably have their own manuals, specifically the backhoe. if you can't find the S/N call your nearest Case dealer and get help from them. I've no idea of your mechanical aptitude but that looks like the kind of deal that there is unlimited work there IF you want to. You may be able to get it operating with only a small amount of work or if you want it like new, you could work/spend LOTS of money. I'm no pro just a farmer with a small dozer but I'd find a mechanic or machinist have a look at that sprocket nut and shaft before I did anything else . Without that being attached properly i don't think you have anything more than a decoration. I'd imagine someone might tell you to weld that nut on there but if you do its a one time thing, the shaft will be ruined if you ever have to take the nut off, to be clear, I would NOT do that but someone might tell you that its an option. Good luck and keep us posted.
now I see your S/N, get those manuals and keep us posted, again, good luck
The online parts manual is HERE.
Don't really need a tach on a loader. Save your money for required parts. I'm guessing you didn't pay too much for it. I would try to adapt a conventional loader bucket on the front. It would work much better. A salvage yard may have a small bucket.
Did an online thing with Service Manual, Operators and Parts Manual. Service manual does not go into as much detail as I like. They are like $13 on spamazon, figure it'd help me set Idle and make sure governor works. ___________ Sprocket shaft is main priority for me, we got the nut off the other side and the first nut goes on that shaft fine, so thinking the threads on that shaft are worn more than the nut is. Threads on the shaft feel rounded over a bit, cutting new threads would not work since I need to add metal not take away. Not sure what to do there as pulling the whole final drive shaft looks like a huge pain. Also looking at parts manual it seems sprocket is off a different model (310c sprockets are more skelletonized), but that should be fine.
Are the sprockets tight on the shaft ? They sure don't look like Case sprockets. Those nuts may not be the correct ones for the shafts. Did you get a service manual ??
@Tinkerer Yeah I bought a pdf of what purports to be the 310 service, op and parts manual though the service manual does not go into the depth I'd like, guessing people back then didn't need as much hand holding. I think the nuts are right looking at parts diagram, can see the 2 holes, this nut does seem thicker on the drawing but that could be an illusion. Looks like the sprocket could be a 350 sprocket, I have seen some threads on using a 350 sprocket on a 310, maybe that is why I've got spacers that are not in the exploded view?
If you could talk to a machinist you could find out about cutting new threads and getting a smaller nut to match. However, by the time you removed the shaft it would probably be cheaper to just install a new one. Unless there is a portable tread cutting tool. Pipe is threaded in the field, but I don't know about that shaft. Its certainly worth a few phone calls.
I watched your video. That nut is doomed to failure as far as staying tight. There is a reason Case designed the nut with two dowel pins. That is the only way to prevent it from getting loose. It is no wonder to me that the threads on the shaft are worn. I think the only thing to do is drive the sheared off dowel pins out of the sprocket, unless they are in a blind hole. Although I doubt if they are. Clean all the the threads thoroughly and use red lock-tite along with new dowel pins that fit tight in the holes.
@Tinkerer If you mean the 2 bolts in the nut, those are not sheared off, the thing sheared off is a bolt they tapped into the center hole of final drive shaft, that they used with a brace to hold the nut in place. I may shoot another video; I'm thinking if I can get the sprocket to go in further so that it is flush with splines I may get enough good thread to screw the nut on.
I understood the bolt in the center situation as you described it. I didn't realize the OEM bolts were not sheared off. I thought that was why the previous owner drilled and tapped the axle. Broken Tractor offers new nuts for $35.00. He was the cheapest I found in an internet search. The aftermarket nuts do not even have the holes for the bolts that the OEM ones did. If it were mine I would never trust that bolt in the center of the axle to hold the nut tight. I would weld a bead on the sprocket next to two of the nut flats. I'm surprised that the nut hasn't already come loose and allowed the splines on the axle and sprocket to be damaged.
Yeah, that was a really bad idea for a repair. It probably just made things worse. yeah that is the good thing, looks like the splines are fine as far as I can see. Also seems like the nut is not the big issue as it threads onto the other shaft tightly, whereas the other nut is also loose on this shaft. So an aftermarket nut is probably not the answer. If there is not enough good thread left on the shaft (If the Sprocket goes in more) the true longterm repair would be a new final drive shaft; unless there is a way to build up the old threads without removing the shaft.
Alright shot some more video especially on how the nuts fit, and also some quick and dirty measurements of the difference in final drive shafts. Looks like the loose one is about 80 thousanths smaller than the other one. Also noticed some more welding/grinding on the loose side's sprocket and the difference in spline teeth. https://www.bitchute.com/video/NIcd91WkDviI/
You may have called it, after getting the other nut off and pounding the sprockets in with a deadblow here is the difference in spline teeth 1 Pic of good side followed by 3 of bad side. I think the shaft is probably bad and the sprocket is probably bad, so maybe just find something to fill the gaps in splines, put it back together and run it until I find a deal on the new(er) parts.
Forgetting the engine/sprocket thing. One of the hydraulic cylinders does not want to move, and the spool lever would not go all the way, so after looking at the manual I pulled off the bottom cap and... Think I found the problem, now I'm gonna clean that out.
Cleaning the gunk out of the cap did the trick for that problem. I probably should pull the block off and do a real cleaning someday...
Loctite 660 can repair some keyways but doubt it would work on Cat sprocket splines. You could contact Loctite and see what they recommend. There's also some very good epoxies like Belzona or maybe Devcon that might work to repair worn splines.
Thanks Dave, do you know where I'd find a contact for loctite for that, or an example thread where someone repairs this? I figure just pump it in there and pray, but there may be more to it .
Here's a couple products for stripped splines. There are other's such as Loctite 660. Just need to surf the net or contact the epoxy makers directly.. Spline Shaft Repair (appliedmaintenance.com) Belzona Rebuilds Spline Shaft
Ended up getting enough bite on the nut flipping it around and putting it back on, lifted machine on outriggers, smacked the sprocket with deadblow, get another half turn, repeat. I found a local place for the devcon, but prob won't muck with that till spring.
Next fun thing, I noticed the hydraulic fluid was low and looked like chocolate milk (yum), so I drained it and was going to replace it but I saw this... Motor oil? SAE 10-w? I see tractor supply has some SAE 20 but research tells me that may be cheap garbage. Then I see ISO-32 may be the modern match for 10-w hydraulic, but might not have proper additives? What is the proper modern hydraulic fluid to use?
Most likely ISO 32 hyd. oil will be fine. It is equivellant to 10 weight engine oil. You can usually use tractor fluid in a straight hyd. system as well. It's typically 10W-30 weight. Tractor fluid is sometimes cheaper than hyd. fluid.
Yeah original plan was just to get hy-tran and pour it in, and after more research I'm coming back to the idea as well. but https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...0a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114 "Its viscosity is comparable to a SAE 20 crankcase fluid or an ISO 68" Maybe it would not matter.
Don't think you need the more expensive Hy-tran. I use tractor fluid from Walmart in my Cat track loaders hyd. system because it is less expensive. I use a name brand TO-4 in the transmission though. Basic hydraulics don't normally require specialty name brand oils. If the oil also runs a hydrostatic drive like in a skid steer, then the name brand oils are a good idea.
That utf is the cheapest other than "agricultural fluids" in the yellow can, which my research led me to see this, and started my wild goose chase lol "It may also serve as a compression fluid in non-critical applications such as wood splitters and many other stationary applications. Not recommended for use in mobile, farm or construction equipment."
The fluid I use from Walmart meets Cat TO-2 and several other manufacturer specs. This is an obsolete Cat spec. but still means the fluid has met specific standards. Don't use fluid says suitable or may be used in or something along those lines. Use a fluid that says it meets specific OEM specs. Also don't use something meeting a 303 spec. I think it's an old JD spec. from the 50's. That said, your Case 310 isn't fussy about hyd. fluid. It's a basic lower pressure, by today's standards, gear pump hyd. system. Keep the level up and change the filter occasionally and you shouldn't have any problems unless the pump is completely worn out.
Local tractor place had this listed as hy-tran, grabbed a bucket. I may be wrong but I think this stuff may not meet any standards https://starfire.com/products/hydraulic-oil/mef-3/ Could work to use for a while and then drain out I suppose, unless it is total grabage
Do you want to change the fluid often? That oil is basically saying it's not very good. Your making it seem like it's hard to find an oil to use in your hyd. system which it isn't. You go from expensive Hy-Tran to the cheapest stuff on the market. Look for something that lists what OEM specs. it meets like Cat TO-2. If it meets the Cat spec. it will most likely meet other specs. and have them listed as well. ISO 32 hyd. fluid will work if you find it for a decent price.
To WelderDave’s point- Here’s the Tractor Supply stuff I’m using in my machine…NOT saying this IS “THE” stuff you have to use…just showing the label of “meets-requirements” too many to count.
I've generally heard this is good oil but still I'd rather see it say that it meets all these specs. rather than recommended for. Could probably get more info from Tractor Supply such as who makes it for them and if it actually does meet the specs. listed. Still much better than an economy oil that recommends you change it often. That's like admitting it's not very good.
Yup the only reason I got the cheap junk was the local tractor place had it under a sign that said "Hy-Tran" so I figured it was not just just going to be garbage, after looking at that datasheet I realized it was a load of crap lol. Especially when I see the bit about equipment requiring frequent fluid changes. After seeing that I actually picked up that bucket of the TSC stuff the same day, it is 20 bucks more a bucket though; but I like that it says 10w-30 spec, which is as far as I can tell is close to what the manual calls for as I can find Current plan is to put the cheap stuff in there and run it for a bit, sort of as a flush since the old fluid looked like chocolate milk. Then I'll probably put in some hytran even if it is more expensive.
I guess it could be OK to flush the system. At least now you know you kind of get what you pay for and what to look for.
Most any 10w brand name motor oil would be superior to what was on the market and likely in the machine when it left the factory. any of those oils will be better than the 'chocolate milk' you say is in the machine now.
Adding "good" oil to the system is only going to dilute the crap that is in it and a complete waste of decent oil. IMHO. A complete system flush is the only way to get rid of the chocolate looking crap that is in it now.
If you've bought the cheap oil it would be a good oil to flush the system with. Once flushed then put in better oil.
Yup, gonna use the cheap oils for that. Will have to figure out how to get all the old stuff out of cylinders later After I got most of the fluid drained I realized the filter came undone and has just been sitting on the bottom of the tank, looks like it is bulged and the little screen is torn in some places. Not having much luck on finding a replacement with the part number 36442 Also not much luck in draining all the old fluid, seems like there is a baffle in the tank, and design of the tank is blocking some of the crap from getting to the plug hole. Looks like I'll just have to try and get as much gunk out as I can with paper towels and then just live with it.
Wouldn't think a baffle would block the tank off from draining part of it. Might be more to block returning (hot) oil from directly going back into the suction line.