I've got a 2002 Case 40XT. This gave me a problem once before but it went away. What it is doing is when the key is turned to the run position before starting the left hand instrument cluster goes bright(like normal) but then dims to half or less of the brightness. It alsoakes a buzzing noise. It comes back to bright but it dims right away. I can never start it even on bright as it cuts out. Battery is good and night switch has been checked. Ground is good. Can the instrument cluster be bad?
I know you checked it but, it sounds like a grounding problem.
We have checked all grounds but doesn't seem like the issue. We do have the voltage drop after the ignition switch and wondering if now it could be the starter solenoid. All the relays are good and no bared wires in the harness.Im going to get the starter bench tested this weekend. Luckily we had a crane to raise the arms on the skid steer so we could tilt the cable forward. If the solenoid tests ok we will take every ground off and polish but everything seems tight. Checked ohns at the switch and all checks out there. Any other thoughts?
Hopefully its in the starter. If not, I am not sure where else to look. I don't think that has anything to do with the instrument panel.
Thanks for your thoughts. I'll post once I know about the starter/solenoid.
I know you said you checked all grounds but be sure to check the cab to chassis ground, remove it and check for burn marks, rust or anything else.
Just wanted to say that an OHM test will tell you if there is a path from A-B, but will not tell you about its strength. A cable made of 100 strands with 99 broken will ohm test 100 percent, but will cary no load. All the tests have to be done measuring voltage drop on each cable. If you have not voltage drop tested all the individual cables you could get caught. Hope it is your starter solenoid. Can explain the tests, or someone else can if you are not familiar. Simon C
Got a new starter thinking it was the solenoid. Not it. Got a new switch. Not it. Voltage reads 12.7 at battery, starter and wire into key switch. I hooked up the switch and turned key to run. Got my bright lights on the instrument cluster. Then tested voltage at starter. 12.7. Then turned key and instrument cluster went dim. Tested voltage at battery. 6.5 volt. The instrument cluster was also making a muffled buzzing from the normal loud buzzing but also a shorting sound when you put your ear up to the cluster. Thinking maybe a new instrument cluster is needed? They are pricey new like $1000 US. Also I had rechecked grounds, polished them to a gleam and lubed them with diaelctric grease so I know that is not it as I may be told that again. Also all wiring harness looks perfect Any thoughts?
A Battery that drops to 6.5 volts is junk unless the starter is drawing 800 plus amps. Unless you have a harnesss grounding out. You say you put in new starter, a instrument cluster will not drop battery to 6.5 volts. It will cause a big smoke show before that haopens. Did you load test the battery. Did you try jump starting, did it crank. Simon C
Did a load test on the battery. Reads 825 cca
Also had battery boosted as well before checking battery but now we know it's not that.
Can you turn engine over by hand? Is there an aux. valve in the on position? Check and recheck all grounds.
Just disconnected battery , removed all supply cables ( battery and boost port at back of machine) and boosted with cables from my boat battery and it started right up. Pulled out factory battery cable and put on starter at side of machine to boat battery and it did it's voltage drop again. Eliminated the factory again and boosted with jumpers and it started right up. The cable looks like brand new in factory loom, perfect ends but compromised somewhere in between. Thanks to everyone that has tried to help. Always good to get more ideas.
A voltage drop test can tell you which cable is bad. Look up on You tube to see how. As I said in post number 7, an OHM's test will not tell you the strength of a battery cable. Have seen many over the years that were burnt off internally with no sign on outside. You have a cable that has only a couple strands of wire left. Fine Strand welding cable is what I have built too many cables to count with proper copper ends and heat shrinked connections. Glad it started. Simon C
I reused the 1/0 cable that's on the machine but I cutoff the battery connection end and disected it to find green internal corrosion. Never saw anything quite like it. I've seen smaller wires within a wiring harness on mobile cranes that experience a lot of road salt in winter but not on machine that never sees salt and on such a large cable.
If someone poked the cable with a test light through the skin, it will eventually become a green ball of corrosion. Seen it plenty of times. Glad you found. Where you hiding in B.C. I lived in West Kelowna before for about 5 years, too hot in coveralls for me. Simon C
We are in Christina Lake. Coveralls and 40c is not fun!
Any issues, don't be scared to ask. Sometimes we actually help. Glad you got it figured out. Simon C