Hey Guys. I got a case 570 lxt series 2 that went from operating perfect to not moving at all. I suspected it was an electrical problem, but after troubleshooting my way through the service manual it seems that it is not. I have power all the way down to the solenoids and it goes to 12 volts in fwd and reverse and 0 volts in neutral. Based on all of this I am thinking it is a solenoid problem, but I figured I would see if anyone had insight. It is an old tractor that seems to be well maintained, but I do not know the exact service history.
Any chance your transmission disconnect solenoid is being powered by a stuck switch? Just try unplugging it to see if it moves again.
I am familiar with the clutch solenoid, but not a transmission disconnect solenoid. Are they the same thing? I am fairly certain my clutch button is working based on testing the electrical and hearing clicking in the relays.
Hi @andrewfrankl , I've been a liitle busy of late, plus helped a son move interstate. You have contacted me on my website, but I thought I might answer you here, for the benefit of others in the future. If the solenoids at the transmission control valve, on top of the transmission, are recieving power when FWD & REV are being selected, & not clicking, my thoughts are that there is a problem inside the control valve. Both solenoids won't fail at the same time. If the oil in the transmission is CNH Hytrans, & has been in there a long time, in goes very dark & can cause the control valve spools to become sticky in operation. If that is the issue the valve needs to be removed / dismantled & cleaned out, (and replace the oil & filter too!) while doing that you can check the modulator for a broken snap ring - have a read of this thread - it also mentions an interlock timing relay, which is worth looking at as well. This thread also may help
Ok here's my thinking on this item 16 is bad to break the ears off and stick the piston and not allow pressure to build up in tranny. You'll have to remove the control valve and remove the cap item 9 watch the springs and steel ball under there. There was an upgrade to the snap ring Case had a kit with an installation tool to put new snap ring in because it didn't have eyes for pliers.
Thanks for the insight guys! I will look into it and check back in.
Coy X2
Ok, update here. The tractor now goes in reverse but not forwards. This happens when the FNR lever is in forward or reverse. The tractor is in neutral what the FNR lever is in neutral. I noticed I was getting power to both F and R relays when I was putting the lever Into either F or R, this prompted me to pull the F relay and then it started to work in reverse only. I then put the F relay back in and now the tractor goes backwards in either F or R. I am assuming this means the FNR lever has a problem or the Solenoids are stuck but am hoping for some insight. Thanks!
It sounds like the solenoid valve may be stuck.
Would you recommend replacing the valve or is it fixable?
I would remove the valve and check it out first.
Pulled the FWD and REV solenoids for a bench test and I can't say I figured out much. I did an OHM test with the multimeter and they both passed, then I put 12 volts into them one at a time and I am getting no audible click nor anything I can feel with my fingers on the solenoids. I dont really understand how these things work so any advice would be great as far as visual signs to look for or better ways to test them. Being that before I removed them the tractor did go in reverse, it is hard for me to imagine they are both now not functioning. I really appreciate the help. on a similar note, I had to unbolt the control valve to get the solenoids off. Has anyone had luck re-using that gasket under the control valve or should I order a new one? Also, it is worth noting that the trans oil is very clean and at the right height.
The solenoids create a magnetic field that moves a spool in the stem where they mount. I have seen the stem bent and not allow the spool to move and also corrosion can build up on spool. Remove the solenoids and check the stem and clean it as necessary, you may have to replace stem.
Gotcha, I will check on that. I did notice some light corrosion on the outside of the stem that the solenoids rest on.
Update here. I am learning as I go so I appreciate the help as I have probably brought up many conflicting points here, but this is what I know now. I pulled the control valve and bench tested the solenoids and figured out they work correctly. I checked on part 16 and that looks good as well. Based on what I could tell everything is mechanically sound. This brings me back to the electrical side of things. I placed the control valve back on the tractor and got it running and found again that I have power out of both the Forward and Reverse relays when putting the FNR lever in either Forward or Reverse. I removed the Forward relay and it caused the tractor to go in reverse no matter if the lever was in the Forward or Reverse position, just like last time. But now, when removing the Reverse relay it makes the tractor go Forward when the lever is in either position. This tells me everything is functioning, it is just getting the wrong electrical signals. Does this make you think it may be a lever problem or something else? Thanks!
Have you replaced the shuttle relay and the timer relay?
I replaced the tall one (shuttle interlock relay?) and tested every other relay. I am thinking about unplugging the FNR lever and closing the circuit manually with a wire so I can rule that out
Figured it out today. It was rat chewed wires under the dash that I reconnected wrong and it was sending power to both the forward and reverse relays. Now that I have got that taken care of I have one more thing. The Alternator exciter wire is not bringing the 10 volts the manual calls for to the alternator. As far as I can tell there is no chafing or chewing on the light green wire between the alternator and the back of the dash. Any recommendations as to were to look first for a fix or workarounds to get the alternator the power it needs to turn on? Thanks for all the help so far.
Check your blub for the charge light and the contact pins in plug and the printed circuit board where light plug contact.
I was testing out bulbs and it seems some have failed. I can say when I turn the key to the on position no lights turn on in the instrument cluster, not sure if that means my circuit board is bad or something else. I have some bulbs on the way to see if that helps. Any insight on which bulb is the charge light? I cant find anything in the service manual that shows which bulb is which.
If you have an owners manual it will show you which lights are which. Or use a flashlight to see which one is which.
Well... I thought I had it fixed, but it looks like that is not the case . The tractor reverses just fine, but will only go forward for about 2 seconds then it stops moving. If you put it in reverse, then back into forward it will go for another 2 seconds and stop moving. If this means anything, it does have full power in forward for those few seconds. I also checked the function of the clutch cutout switch in reverse and it works as intended. I have attached two photos below, one zoomed in and one zoomed out, to see if anyone has insight as to exactly where these wires went before they got chewed up. A couple things worth noting. 1) the wires in question are the 3 grey, two light blue, and one red wire. 2) the bottom left light blue wire gets 12 volts when the FNR lever is in forward and the middle left light blue wire gets 12 volts when the FNR lever is in reverse. They both have 0 volts in neutral, and the grey wires all have 0 volts at any FNR lever position. 3) the only way to get the tractor to move, and get the reverse but no forward symptom I noted above, is for the middle light blue wire and the middle grey wire that are almost touching in the photo to be connected. Let me know if any other info would be helpful. Thanks,
I also have a 570LXT. I had some wiring issues with mine. What I love about this machine is that all the wires have wire numbers printed on them. You can download the Hydraulic/Wiring schematic from the Case website for about 20 bucks. The wires you have chewed up could go anywhere. With my machine I pulled all the plastics off the machine and carefully cut back the wire loom cover until I found wire numbers I could read. Then following the wire schematic I was able to splice and repair my wires. I replaced all my relays as it seems they all control the transmission somehow. My machine now drives. But I'm rebuilding the engine now.
570LXT schematic
Andrew, Did you get your 570 fixed. I have the same problem. It was moving but would stop so I turned tractor off and back on and it would go for a while. I decided it was the mesh screen at the bottom of the transmission so I replaced both hydraulic oil filters and cleaned the screen. It had a lot of metal filings. Put it all back together and topped it with oil. When I started it and put it in F or R nothing happened. I opened the connector to the transmission solenoid and checked the volt. F and R both had 12 volts. I can buy new solenoids but like one posting said it is unlikely they are both failed. What worked for you. I am in SoCal and there used to be a mobile guy around here but I can’t locate anyone. Thanks for any help. I am interested in the idea that it could be P/N 16 ring that is broken.???
The old Item #16 snap ring would break the eyes off jamming the modulator piston. Case had a kit you could get ( can’t remember part number) to replace the snap ring, piston and spring. There were actually two kits one with special tools to install ne snap ring and one without tool.
yes, but I doubt yours is the same. Mine was rat related. They took a diode out from under the dash and brought it home to feed their family. Although I doubt this is your problem, my recommendation from my experience would be to buy a service manual. If yours is an electrical problem that will be helpful. I also agree with you and doubt it is the solenoids on. If you take the whole transmission valve assembly off the top of the transmission you can bench test it with 12v and visually see it moving. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will do my best to help.