Anyone ever take out the loader main pivot pin? It runs through a tube welded to the sides of the hydraulic and fuel tank. It’s 42+” long and either it broke at the fuel tank side or it’s worn out the tube it sits in on the drivers side. When manipulating the bucket, I can see the end of the pin moving. I bought the backhoe years ago, with the cutting edge quite worn on the passenger side. So I knew the frame was a bit tweaked. First thing I did was make all new pins and bushings for the loader bucket as they were quite worn. I also had to take off the loader support arms and machine out the egged holes and install bushings. Last winter, it was finally time to flip the cutting edge as it was getting close to the bucket edge. Now, with fine grading, the cutting edge was always cutting in on the right side, so I lowered some air pressure on the opposite side. That helps but recently, noticed when on a 3 to 1 slope and dumping bucket, the tilt cylinder support bolt and nut on the inside of the loader frame, is actually hitting the front counterweight. Have no issues buying all new pins and bushings, or making them. Problem is, how to get out the main loader pivot pin? 42 3/8”, is a long way to hammer out, I ain’t got enough ass to do that.
I think that would be a PITA as the tube that the pin goes in is through the fuel and hydraulic tank and has been in place for 40 years. A hollow cylinder may work and there is a 3/8” hole already in each end but the 42 3/8” sounds like work.
Yep, not a great job to do.... You have no choice really. If you can't swing a hammer to do the job, find someone who can. With the age of the machine, there is the fear that the middle area of the pin could be rusty & then complicate the removal process. Oh, & the loader frames will always spring & twist a little to add to the alignment process when refitting the pin.....
Without taking everything off the top, is there anyway to get to any areas of this tube that I could maybe drill a hole or 2 to maybe tap for a zerk fitting, then pumping some PB Blaster in there. Does anyone have any experience with this and is it more likely that the pin is cracked off or the tube wallered out as the actual pin is moving quite a bit? Was honestly thinking of slicing the pin off on both sides and get after it. That way I could get the loader arms right out of the way. Problem is, if I do that and find I can’t get that pin out of the 32” long tube, I have just totaled the machine.
Vetch, just noticed, that a scarfing tip, WTH good would that do? Lol
I was just messing with you LOL. Get a hand held band saw and put the blade between the boom and the frame. Cut the pin on both ends, move that boom out of the way...........then take turns with your wife swinging a 20 lb. sledge. Better yet...........you swing the sledge and let her brag about your manliness. That will give you the energy to knock that pin out, then knock her out later!
Could weld a hook on to one end to attach a come along or the pull ram from a porta-power to something sturdy. Pulling while hammering may speed things up.
I had already figured I’d either cut both ends off with a saws all or a cut off disk. Take the pins out of the rod ends of the lift cylinders, I have to reseal one anyways because I bought a cheap seal kit the first time. Drop the lift cylinders on the front axle, cap the loader lines and support the loader arms and back the tractor away. What scares the crap out of me is, what if I can’t get the pin out of a tube that it’s been in for 40 years. That and it doesn’t explain why the pivot pin is moving, I suspect that the pivot pin tube is wallered out and I will have to figure a way to line bore it and make a sleeve. I guess I’m just being a pussy and want someone that has hammered one out before to tell me, that with enough ass and enough swings, that the damn pin WILL actually come out. LOL!
If you were closer, ide loan you my 100 draw thru ram and electric pump
I’ve got a 5 and 10 ton port power set and the 10 ton came with a double hook cylinder. Might anchor that to something and drill out pin a little more and tap for a rod eye and put some pull on it and use the BFH on the other end.
Careful to not mushroom the end when hammering and have it stick half way through.
Weld a driver to the pin that is smaller than the pin, but not by much. Strike that and not the pin directly
I kinda figured that’s what I would do but still trying to decide whether to jump in with both feet and cut both ends off right at the tube end to get the tractor out of the way or try to enlarge the 3/8” hole in the pin and tap it for maybe 5/8“or 3/4” fine thread and use a hollow cylinder on one end and a BFH on the other end? Forgot to mention, because of the angle on the boss plate, its not a straight pull.
To save the work of cutting and completely removing the loader, could you move the pin enough to release one side, then start the other way? Supporting the arms up or down, whatever works best. Plywood and padding to protect the glass.
If that pin rotates when the loader arms move, ide bet it’s not going to be that tight in the bore.
@HarleyHappy Just Do It! No cutting, protect the glass, connect a block & tackle to hold the frame in place, start with a short pin & a 12lb short handled sledge & see if it will move...you'll be fine....
No, unfortunately the pin doesn’t rotate.The way the loader arms are, doubt there would be enough deflection to wiggle it out side to side. Alrman, thank you, I will just get after it. One more question, is it normal for that pin to have egged out the pipe? The pin seems to be moving with the loader arm, indicating there is a problem in the bore or boss. I haven’t even started, we are having m wife’s 60th birthday party in the pouring rain, so the shop got cleaned out and there is an outdoor rug in the middle of my shop. Looks kinda good though.
I've never seen the bushing in the chassis wear out, they are 2" wide. Whether it has become loose in it's bore, & moved? I have seen those pins break, usually causing the loader frame to move & break the cab glass. Mostly with operators that would turn the bucket over & raise the front wheels off the ground, while operating the hoe..... & a rock breaker was involved as well, but not always. Carpet is nice to lay on when under machines. Once it's in the shed, it should stay in the shed.
Not a bad idea, think the welding and cutting would take its toll, as it’s some kind of plastic, recycled boat lines or something. Thanks for the info on the hoe, when I get into it, I will take pics if I remember.