I have what I beleive is a 1997 Case 580 Super L. The tractor starts after we get the battery recharged. I plan on replacing that soon. I cannot get the tractor to go into a gear. It is stuck in neutral. Any help would be appreciated. This tractor ran great about 2 years ago. A guy wanted to buy it from a farmer and magically when he went to make the offer, it didn't go into gear. He had been operating the tractor on the farm previously. I think he disconnected something to try and rip the farmer off. The farmer decided not to sell it to him and now we have it. It sat for approximately 1 year. The PIN number is JJG0194011. I shall add some relays were replaced by the farmer's son to try and get it running. I am new to this and trying to learn, so be easy lol.
Welcome to HEF, Austin, First thing you need is a service manual. Ebay is a good place to find one. Your tractor has switches and relays that most likely is your problem. I am posting a partial section of the electrical schematic that is in the afore mentioned service manual. Hover your computer pointer over the image and click on it to enlarge it.
Something similar happened to me. See the link. HeavyEquipmentForums and more recently to some one else... HeavyEquipmentForums
Here is another member's problems with rats. He could get reverse, but no fwd: HeavyEquipmentForums
So I found one wire that a mouse chewed the plastic off of it down to the wires. I replaced that section of wire and the solenoid is getting power. There is clicking going on at relays when I press button on gear selector and when i choose drive selector. I lifted all tires off ground and put in drive tires barely went forward. Put it in reverse tires slowly went forward, no reverse. I did notice the landing gear or feet cylinders were leaking hydraulic fluid. It was whiteish milly color. Also has new battery. Any help would be appreciated!
Lets see what the oil tells us. To find out about the 'whiteish' oil you see on the stabilizers, pull the drain plug on the hydraulic tank and catch a sample of oil from the bottom. This isn't your drive problem as the trans and hyd. are separate systems. If it is a milky mix of water and oil then the hydraulic system needs an oil change/flush and new filter. Do the same to the trans, catch a sample from the drain plug, oil should be clean and clear. Be sure the oil level is full on the trans dipstick (left rear of engine compartment). Then post results update.
I know transmission fluid is clear and fine . i will check hydraulic fluid. thanks for your help
One thing i forgot to add is the Hydraulic Filter light is on the notification panel
light on means filter needs changed
based off of a timer or fluid is being restricted?
Restriction. high filter pressure
is there a good chance this is the issue?
Not for the drive. the systems are separate. It's likely electrical but still need more testing. Did you check the fuses and relays? Do you have a manual?
I've checked them and the relays click. Is there a way to check the relay that I need to do besides engaging gear selector? And yes I have manual
F N R relays are standard relays. They can be swapped with other nonessential-known good relays such as lighting etc. and checked in other working circuits. The Shuttle Time Delay relay is special and other standard relays will not work there. A jumper wire can be installed temporarily for testing in place of the STD relay. For the diodes they are the same and can be swapped if you know what circuit is what.
Possibly but not necessarily cold oil will put that light on until the oil warms up.
Is there any pictures of how to do this properly?
Yes
The above is just a typical setup. To confirm, test the four terminals on your STD relay socket in the fuse panel. The machine wiring diagram and color coding could be helpful. 1) One terminal will be ground (-). 2) One terminal will have power(+) when the key is turned on and power off when the key is off. 3) One terminal (with key on) will switch power(+) on and off as the FNR selector on the dash is moved to F or R and back to N. 4) One terminal will not have power or ground, although it may show some ground (more resistance) as it is connected indirectly to a coil that is connected to ground. Jump a wire between 2 and 4, likely 30 and 87 of the above diagram. This will bypass the relay. If I remember correctly it will be the terminals at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
based off of a timer or fluid is being restricted?
Are there known trouble areas for water getting into the Hydraulic system on the 580 SL
I've always heard "if oil can get out, water can get in" so the typical leaks around cylinders and hose connections. I'm not aware of any type of breather on these.
I had exact problem and did the same thing as you thinking it was electrical,mine was the screen filter in the transmission was clogged it's pretty easy to get to and fixed everything
Just for your info, a relay clicking means that the control circuit that powers that relay is good, it does not mean the relay is good if the contacts inside are too badly worn or corroded. It will switch , but power will not go to where it is intended. I made up some relay break out harnesses to easily check if the power went through or not. Simon C
A transmission screen that is partially plugged, will cause all kinds of problems. Simon C