Guys, I have a broken nut that fastens the grommet to the fuel line T above the injector that is causing a fuel leak. How do you replace this nut, does the fuel injector come apart? I believe it is a pencil style injector from what I have read. It is a Case 1974 Case 580b with a 188 diesel engine. Thanks for the help.
If it is the nut on the low pressure return line simply unscrew it, slide it back to expose the grommet. Remove the rubber grommet and then slide the nut off.
They just push on & pull off.. its the HARD rubber grommet thats holding it on.. If u can dig inside the nut w a scribe or small screwdriver to pick at the HARD rubber grommet, that will help.. When u order the nut, be sure to get a handful of SOFT rubber grommets.. cuz this isnt the first 1 to go..
AND it won't be the last to go!
Replace all of the grommets and you will be good to go for quite a long time.
Thanks for the responses. Back at my original question, it sounds simple to do but the replacement nut and grommet does not go down past the top of the "injector adjustment nut". I ended up removing the injector adjustment nut and slipping the nut and grommet down the injector pencil and threading the injector adjustment back in the top. I was then able to connect the nut with the return T. My question is how tight do I go in with the adjustment nut since I had to remove it. Or does it matter? Thanks again.
Hell yeah it matters.. Ur gonna need a new injector.. All you hadta do is put the grommet in the nut & coat the inside w oil or Vasoline & work it over the injector.. Those injector specs r very tight & specific.. If u decide to reuse it, there’s a strong possibility the injector will be locked up.. & if that’s the case, when you crank it, the pump will lock up & snap the drive shaft.. Or measure another injector & hope for the best.. We told u to get more than one grommet.. lol
Get a NEW injector ! Or your going to be sending the pump to South Carolina. After that happens you will still need a new injector.
I am new to working on this tractor. I will get a new injector and grommets . Thanks for the help. As I mentioned it is not the grommet that won't go down it's the hole on the nut that connects to the T fitting. I tried several time but it will not go past the hex on the adjustment nut.
Your just new, that’s all.. I’ve been doing it “my way” for 30+ years.. U COULD take it to a fuel shop and have them reset it.. BUT 99% of the time they’ll say it’s bad & sell u a new one..
giga; No need for apologies for being new, to anything. We all were at one time. Could you post a picture of that nut and where it is located ? I'm having a problem trying to understand why you had to tamper with the adjustment nut on the injector.
Yes I will post pics. I ordered new injectors and extra grommets. I think my next challenge will be removing the injector from the block. Not sure if these are original injectors to this machine or not.
I will get the actual photos later in the week, but this is what's happening and this is from my manual. As explained even without the grommet the hole in the nut will not go past the hex on the injector. Thanks again.
Most of the time you’ll need a special tool.. Or loosen the hold down nut and crank the engine over & let the compression pop them out..
Are you using the nut for this injector or just a random compression nut they might not be the same I never ran into this maybe get a round chain saw file and work on the hole a little
I ordered it from a case dealer along with the grommet and T fitting. So I don't screw up the replacement injector. Should I do these steps Is this the correct procedure) 1. Place the grommet in the nut, 2. Tighten the nut on the T. 3. Then push the T with the nut down on the injector?
I wouldn’t tighten the nut up.. Just get a few threads on, so it won’t strip, then push it on the injector.. I know your going thru the Dealer but Case didn’t make the fuel system.. RoosaMaster was the most common name for many years.. then they go bought out & changed the name to STANADYNE.. What injector # did u buy.. I can look it up and give u the Stanadyne p # of the parts u need.. u might find them cheaper on Amazon or eBay.. Did your Dealer have them in stock or did they have to order them.??
I ordered the nut and T fitting from the case dealer, but I just ordered the replacement injectors from Amazon part # A140829.
Cheap Chinese crap. Here is who you bought them from -->PINGJIANG MACHINERY,LLC Sorry ! Just a forewarning to anyone reading your thread and needs injectors.
The OEM {Stanadyne} P# is>> 20671 The leak off cap {T} is 31286 The nut is>> 24187 The grommets are>> 17721 That'll give u something to compare the price the dealer gave u.. Good luck
Thanks for the part numbers super helpful. If I type stanadyne 20671 or 20671 in Amazon I get no OEM items. I ordered a set of 4 injectors A140829 that said they are compatible 20671. I am sure they are Chinese but will it work?
FYI: I went that route on a Deere diesel that uses pencil-style. Put on a pressure tester on cheap injectors and found only one had nice spray pattern. Then bought a set from Deere- all opened at proper pressure and had nice pattern. I also had a challenge putting nut/seal and T return fittings back on...had to really work to get compressed enough to have threads catch.
I know I am going around in circles here but since I may have made a mistake a bought Chinese crap injectors, here are my thoughts. 1. Can I adjust the old original injector nut end back correctly while still in the cylinder? 2. Is it possible or wise to remove the old injector and clean/test and adjust it per the service manual. I have read in the manual any injector installed should be tested prior to installation so even new cheap Chinese crap may have to be adjusted so i feel like i am back at square 1 even buying new. To clarify where I am at I have not removed the injector from the cylinder at this point only the adjustment screw on the end when I was trying to fit the T for the return line. Thanks for reading and any help.
If changed the adjustment nut you need to discard the injector. I don't know where you read that replacement injectors should be tested and adjusted. They shouldn't need that done. And if for some reason they did need it, that should only be done by professionals with the proper equipment.
https://www.allpartsstore.com/ItemDetl.htm?ResultsList=201208289863807&CategorySeq=S&SelcBrand=JD&SelcMachn=INDUSTRIAL/CONSTRUCTION&SelcModel=ALL MODELS&SelcSectn=E&SelcSubsc=EK8028&SearchItem=1&TextSearch=&ItemNumber=RE36935 Tractor parts guy ordered these for me. Happy with them. I played with testing/adjusting the cheap ones- one stripped out threads, the others pressure adjusted to correct opening but pattern still sucked. Dropping a new one in probably the easiest/quickest route.
I think I will cancel the Chinese ones and order an OEM(if I can find and afford them) The case dealer quoted me 150.00 for one injector. Luckily for now all I need is one! @Labparamour Did you have to clean the cylinder head injector bore? I heard if you don't clean the bore you won't be able to get the injector back out if needed in the future.
Just to clarify where I got the injector information. I bought a 70's Case 580CK B series service manual pages 33-14 to 33-16 states how to service/clean/test/adjust the injector prior to installation. I plan to return the Chinese ones. Then I will just put the OEM straight in and try my luck. Thanks for the help.
Did it this last spring. I think I ran a patch with some solvent down the hole until it came out pretty clean.
If its like the Ford tractor manual, it describes how to do it with a pop off tester. That is an expensive tool unless you have a bunch to do
Wow, I looked on Amazon and they are less than $100! They were over $500 20 yrs ago. I wonder if chinese injector testers are any better than chinese injectors?
There are several injector testers online available around $100(most likely Chinese) not sure how good they are. There are instructions online of how to build a tester also. The case manual shows steps on how to dismantle/service the injectors.
Yep, the Ford manual does too. Does your manual show a method of adjusting them without a pop-off tester?
Yeah, I found a tester online for cheap. However had to order a used injector line from a boneyard and make my own test line using tractor end and tester end as kit didn’t have correct threads/fitting. Adjusting the injectors seemed easy enough but, even at correct pop off, didn’t have good spray pattern and one had frozen threads that stripped out on me when trying to loosen. For just one or two injectors, buying quality injectors probably easiest/cheapest.
No, my manual shows the breakdown of the injector and servicing/dismantling. It specifies to use the tester to check the atomized spray pattern. The case tester is an m20322. Like this one in this dozer manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=m20...d=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=zDsrrcwFsUqb2M
Forget what I said about the A&I injectors. I looked back at the message I had from the guy who helped me find replacements: “Sorry for the delay, just heard back from my diesel guys. They are not enthused about the quality of the A & I Injectors either. The options they have are rebuilt-$70/each exchange, $20/core charge. Brand new Stanadyne-$100/each, no core.” That was January of this year. Not sure what stanadyne sell for now.
A little under $120.00 from most vendors.
The testing of “new” injectors came about when they started coming from across the sea.. the quality was of questionable service.. & it spread like wild fire.. U might save on the initial upfront cost but if u have to take them in to be checked, you’ve blown the budget.. If u buy them local from a fuel shop, more than likely your gonna get OEM Stanadyne injectors.. and if something goes wrong, say a miss on a cylinder, you go back to the fuel shop, they pressure test it to determine if the injector is at fault.. BTW.. buying a pop tester won’t solve any problems.. the tester doesn’t come w the line needed to hook up the pencil injectors..
I contacted the Chinese brand seller through amazon and they said their injectors are 100% compatible with the 580B. I asked what PSI does their injector release at and the response was 322-330PSI. Does that sound right?
They will tell you what you want to hear to make a sale. If you do buy them connect all to the lines with the injectors out of the head, and crank the engine to see what the spray pattern looks like. Please post your results if you do that. Opening pressure is 2750 psi to 2850 psi.
Will try. Thanks
The op for the injectors u ordered is new 3200 psi +- 50 psi.. Used/service is 3000 +- 50 psi Good luck
I first place the nut over the injector then I place the grommet over the injector and work the grommet into the nut then pull the nut back and screw the tee into the nut. The old nuts won't come off the injector with out busting the adjustment screw looses unless you dig all the old grommet out with a pick. Over tightening any of these will damage the new grommets .
Good read. I’m have a similar situation but my nut seams to be stripped. My guess is it’s best to do them all at once? I’m new the these machine as well. My nut on the bottom of the t leaks and doesn’t seam to tighten up. Thanks for the help guys.
Any recommendation of sites to order fuel line parts from? Thanks
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59420/referrer/navigation/pgId/153960 I was working on a Deere. Deere has good online parts catalog. Not sure how many “pencil-style” injectors are out there. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59420/referrer/navigation/pgId/153960
There are HUNDREDS of different pencil injectors.
The way I do it is, lock the nut in a vise & pull & twist left & right Hard, then pick the hard grommet out, after it’s off the injector.. THAT may not be everyone’s method but it works for me.. Good luck Naturally the inj is out..