Installing a new thermostat in my 1975 Case 580B backhoe. The old one was a Robert Shaw 330-180 and looked like this: I'm replacing it with this one from Allstate's AG: Thermostat - 180° F fits John Deere 2355 2520 7520 7810 2040 RE33705 fits Case A57641 fits International 3042303R1 fits Massey Ferguson 1446165M91 Thermostat - 180° F, Allis Chalmers, 70254490, 74025103, Case, A57641, Case IH, S214003 for Allis Chalmers Harvester(s) 880. Replaces Allis Chalmers OEM Number(s) 70254490, 74025103, 4025103, 71011901, 72080437, Replaces Case OEM Number(s) A57641. www.tractorpartsasap.com The new one has a hole through the outer ring with a plastic bobber thing; 1) Does the bobber go in a certain orientation? 2) Does the bobber need to be able to float up and down freely once installed?
The bobber should go down. It is a air bleed hole.
Yes the plastic bobber goes on the bottom, but when I installed it, the bobber does not move up and down because it's pushed up against the bottom ring. I assume it needs to work (move up and down) to function correctly? Is there a front, back, left, right position that there's a cut out/ relief for the bobber to function in? If not then I need to clean up the lower ring more so it has clearance to move.
It's probably not the correct thermostat. Your original thermostat either didn't have an air bleed or it was inside where you can't see it. BUT I have used thermostats that didn't have an air bleed and drilled a small hole to prevent air locks. If the thermostat fits otherwise you can probably get by with just clipping the bobber off.
I pulled it back apart there's a shoulder its hitting underneath that's stopping it from functioning properly. That's interesting idea to cut it off, thanks
That first thermostat can flow a lot more coolant and look at how they open compared the second one. If it is not running hot rock on.
Haven't really ran it a lot as I'm just getting it rehabbed. I am Haven't really ran it a lot as I'm just getting it rehabbed and ready to work. I am in a colder climate (southern Oregon) in the winter (10F-20F)and it gets pretty hot in the summer (95F to 100F) and I'll be using it in both seasons. Which thermostat do you think would work better especially in the winter?
A quick search shows the type you have with the air bleed but a couple I saw didn't even have an air bleed hole. If the little valve piece is interfering with it seating properly I would snip it off and move on. Like I said, anytime I bought one without an air bleed hole I drilled an 1/8" hole in it to prevent an air lock when filling.
If I cut off the bobber,, the existing hole is a little under 3/16 (0.182), will this have any effect on operations VS the 1/8 (.125) your recommending?
Maybe get a new Robert-Shaw #330-180° thermostat and have some peace of mind ?
I don't think it would but read my signature. It sounded like part of the hole is blocked by the gasket sealing surface anyway. The design of the Robert Shaw doesn't match any of the others I looked up for your application but it's your machine and decision. If you like the looks of the Robert Shaw better just heat it in a pan of water with a temperature gauge in it and see if it's opens at 180. If it was regulating the temperature before there is no reason to change it.