Finally I got the shuttle rebuild and also the brakes in hsape. Started to dig (bunch of stones, boulders and some kind of sandy soil) but when I operate The boom up and down it shakes like hell on stopping mainly. I can see in front of my feet that the backhoe part seems to be loose somehow. Since I work alone (71 years old man) I can get to see were the extra play is. By looking at the parts manual (I bought the online version) I cannot see anything replazable like bushings or something like that. The only thing I see is some tension rods. Can someone give me some hints? Thanks, Wilson http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p1/electronmini/ZZCASE_July-2010002.jpg
Tighten those if you can. They are what hold the back hoe into the saddles.
Almost every hoe I get, from the E model on back, has to have these nuts tightened. If not the hoe attachment will move a little on the frame. It usually requires heating them with an oxy/act torch. I use a 1" impact gun to remove/install them, so the thread can be lubricated, You will loose the nylon locking feature of the nut, by heating them that hot, so you may choose to replace them. Phil
If the lower saddles are worn out no amount of tightening the truss rods will solve the problem, you may have to set the hoe off and weld up the lower saddles to properly cradle the pin then reinstall the hoe and tighten it in position. melben
Those lower pin maybe the cause melben: I think that you are right because I tried to observe where the play is and it seems in the lower pins. Now if I have that re welded, that means that it would have to re machine the holes to fit the pins. In my youth (50 years ago) I used to be a machinist and went from place to place with portable equipment re boring, etc, etc. Now off course I do not have such equipment but I could build it at home if I can some ideas of how do the people in this field do it. I have metal lathe, welding machine, etc,etc. I would not like to re-invent the wheel but rather copy someone else's design. Do they take the saddle apart from the backhoe and fit in on a boring machine, or they have specialized boring/portable equip. that can be fitted to the plate to be re bored? Any ideas? Thanks a bunch, Wilson
Could it be they use something like this? A pain to make one, but I have more time than money at 71+ !!!!
Bear with me fellows but isn't the lower saddle open on top and the pin just sit down in it tightly when new? To remove the hoe you just had to remove the upper pins and lift the hoe up out of the saddles with the stabilizers and boom action, drive ahead to disengage the hoe from the tractor, sit it down on blocks , disconnect and loop the pressure lines on the tractor and drive away. If I am correct, a bit of welding and shaping the new saddle area to allow the lower pin to wedge down in it should do the trick, if I am not, please correct me as I do not want to give incorrect info. If I am correct a welder and 4 in grinder should be sufficient for a good repair . melben.
I have found that tightening the tension rods will usually cure the problem, so try that first. If loose too long then, the hook and pin get worn, then the hoe should come off. This is the problem Mel is referring too. I have one hook on my old 580CK that is worn a bit, and will get some weld on it before the hoe goes back on. Find a pin the same size as the one in the hoe frame and use it to check the shape of your 'hook' after you weld and grind. I've attached pictures to show what Mel is talking about. You can almost see the wear in both pieces. I've seen pins loose in the hoe frame also. I bought a 680 once that was missing one of the lower pins, it was really sloppy. Phil
Phil; Thanks a bunch !!! Now I can see more or less how this hook-up works. It was not easy for me to understand the parts manual without the pictures you provided. Now I can see that the to big nuts try to expand the two distances between the vertical direction to get the hoe "stuck" tight and not move. I will try that and if it fails (the nuts) I will go with the procedure of getting a pin of same size and weld/grind to conform the bottom hook. Thanks again !!!! a much better solution that trying to make a boring bar and remachine. It can be done by hand with a little bit of craftsmanship You guys made my day, thanks to all for the input !!! This board is full of people with real experience and knowledge !!!
Thanks for the pictures, I would shape the saddle so the pin wedges in it rather than trying to duplicate a round bottom hole as original, that way if loosening occours you can draw it back down into the wedge, not a steep wedge though, this wedge would accomodate the worn pins also, just me thinking out loud. melben