Hi. So, I'm a newbie in the boondocks with a Case 580C that is leaking break fluid from the front and back on the right side. The right brake barely works a day later after being refilled and bled. On the left side, it's working, but then giving out, then works again if pumped. So I've ordered master and wheel cylinders and rebuild kits and am getting ready to tackle this project because it's very costly to get a technician out here. My questions are 1. Does anyone have or know where to find a service manual with info on bleeding and wheel cylinders? (The one I have is missing these very components, referring to a section 7025 which doesn't exist.) 2. If I hire my neighbor, who is experienced and qualified, how long should it take him? 3. If I attempt to do it myself, how long might it take me? (I'm a novice mechanic, knowing some basics.) 4. Is there any decent chance that the rebuild kits will work on some of these parts, or am I doomed to pay $200/cylinder? Thanks y'all! Oh, P.S. I don't seem to be able to be able to view profiles for some reason, so don't think I can PM people. My email is hef at lavendarskyrancy dot com.
Oops, sorry, typo on email, hef at lavenderskyranch dot com
Bleed it like a car's brakes. Pump it till hard, open the bleed valve and keep pressure on the brake peddle. Refill every time. 3 dot brake fluid. Ten times easy if you remove the floor plate to get at everything.
If the rebuild kits are the right ones and you inspect the cylinders real good, they should work fine. You can buy a small hone at most any auto store and refinish the inside to be sure they are good. If you have pits you will have to buy new. You can also get a bleeding kit at any auto store. Your master cylinders I know are different than mine. I have never found one like mine anywhere online but the older ones I see. Have you looked on eBay?? I see a "new" brake wheel slave cylinder for your model for about $47.
Thanks! Where is the bleed valve? (That's what I was hoping the service manual would show, but the one I got doesn't)
Go to the Coleman link here http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-580C-Loader-Backhoes-Parts/Brakes-4c/DIFFERENTIAL-BRAKE-LEVER-AND-LOCK-TRANSAXLE-DIFFERENTIAL-BRAKE-CYLINDER-0Y18/?#partdiagrams and you will see the little nub of a valve on the cylinder just like on a car. Just never unscrew it without putting pressure on the brake pedal because air will get back into the system. Just crack it an 1/8 turn then more if needed, don't remove it.
Here is a youtube video of a guy bleeding a brake using the "one man method". That's about as simple as you can get if you are working by your self. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs
Hi all. Thanks to everyone who replied. So, more questions from me: 1. Is bench bleeding on the master cylinder necessary? The instructions that came with the aftermarket cylinder said so. We did not do it. 2. If the bleeder valve is cracked and we just kept pumping, would that have done it correctly, or did something go wrong there? I remember helping someone a couple of times and I thought the procedure was different. (A neighbor came and did most of the re-install...) It's all installed but breaks don't have much gusto. They barely work and definitely not enough on a hill. So, trying to figure out what's wrong. Thanks!
No to the bench bleeding. It just takes a bit longer. With the master cylinder full, pump till you get somewhat of a peddle, keep pressure on it and crack the bleed valve. Do not release pressure on the peddle till you close the bleed valve even once it goes to the floor. That is very important or you will suck air back into the system. Repeat till you get all air out. Refill the master cylinder as needed as you release oil from the bleed ports.
brakes fishfighter is correct, unlock the brake pedal, pump pedal and hold pressure on it, other person loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and let the pedal go to the floor, tighten bleeder and repeat again, pump up pedal, hold pressure, bleed off fluid until you have no air in the system. Check fluid often so you don't put air back in the system. The other issue you may have is the adjustment may be off, linings/rivets loose/bands worn/oil in the brake housings. When new the brakes adjust themselves as you apply your brakes or you pull the parking brake handle up. There is a link that adjusts the nut with the gear teeth when the lever arm moves up and down. Most are stuck and will not turn the nut to keep up with the adjustment or they have taken the auto adjuster loose and installed a 3/8 24 jam nut to the main adjuster nut. The adjuster nut also has a small o-ring inside to hold tension on the adjuster rod that runs down threw the lever and brake housing attached to the brake bands. When you step on the brake it pulls the rod up and makes the bands grab the drum inside and also forces the disc to the backing plate and drum to the brake housing. To adjust raise the rear tires just off the ground, measure the pedal, top to floorboard, turn the adjusting nut on the lever, push the pedal down and measure the height from the floor ( should be about 2.5 inches from the top) check your SM, then adjust the other side the same. Check for drag on the tires by turning them by hand, if you have drag you may need to loosen the adjuster nut more until there is none. Adjust as needed to level out the pedals so when they are locked you have equal feel. Caution must be taken while checking and moving machine if one or both lock up. You can spin it around and slam something if it grabs. As you have made your adjustment the pedal feel will become better due to less stroke of the lever where the slave cylinder forces up to apply the brakes. Caution must be used when checking and adjusting due to the grab effect on this style of brake system. For me I pull the housing and inspect, replace parts as needed, then do the adjustment. Hope this helps.
I bought a service manual, parts manual and operators manual on ebay for $12.95. It is all on a cd. I would prefer a book, but the cost was rights. I will just print out pages I need while servicing the machine!