Hello guys I bought a new to me 580c couple months ago . I finally got done doing a ring and pinion job and started to work with it. Lets make a long story short I noticed im leaving a trail of fluid coming from the vent off the valve cover. its not my oil cause its always at level and the coolant stays at level. All I can think off is a stuck injector smack me upside the head if im wrong. it does have a diesel smell to it when it leaks out and looks thin like water. what do you guys think? let me know thank you It does not smoke, starts great . Gives me a little smoke when you give it throttle and clears up right away
A stuck injector would cause a 'miss' in the engine & more smoke than usual. How long has the oil been in the engine? Oil could be diluted with diesel from the umbrella type seals on the injector pump drive gear. Pull the dipstick from the engine & place a drop of oil on a clean paper towel. If there is any fuel in the oil it will separate from the oil & create a damp mark around the engine oil droplet. Usually this problem will cause the oil level to rise - maybe yours is not severe yet ?? You could also have excessive oil leakage around the rocker gear area. Pull the rocker cover & start 'er up & see what is happening.....
just changed the oil right after I did the pinion Ill have to drop the oil on a towel and see I have not seen no overfull oil yet i am running 15-40 and it looks a little thinner then 15 40 Possible the diesel is making it thinner ? Edit: I forgot to add that I have about 3 hours on the new oil
checked the oil this morning and its like water again . SO the diesel is mixing with the oil and overfilling the motor causing it to blowby out of the vent. When I change them 2 seals should i change anything else while im in there?
Check the primer I don't think the injectors on that engine will leak into the crank case.
I dont think there is a primer on this motor . Or i misunderstood what you ment about primer
If the oil level is rising & oil is diluted - those seals are the only cause on that engine. Tie the throttle lever to full throttle position when you remove the pump, as it is possible the governor weights inside the pump can dislodge. TIP - A 9/16" half moon or starter wrench is required & you may need to grind the wall thickness of the wrench to allow it to fit on the nut
The primer comment was just a guess on my part having had it happen at one time but couldn't remember which machine or motor. The pump seals I'd forgotten could be the culprit but it looks like alran has it pegged for you.
Smart money says to time the pump BEFORE pulling it off.. and WIRE the throttle back to the FULL THROTTLE position. Shut off the fuel at the tank.. remove the small window on the side of the inj. pump, let it drain.. Rotate the engine by hand till the 2 lines line up.. 1 is stationary and 1 will come around.. NOW pull the pump off.. IF the brass tube [pilot tube] has any gouges/grooves in it.. don't waste your time w/ new seals only.. get the tube replaced.. or you'll be pulling it again. Good luck..
thanks for the tips guys
I got the job done Its gotten better but not fully fixed. Pilot tube was a little worn. I dont think case can get my a piot tube so I might have to replace the pump. Im on a search for a tube right now.
Case didn't make the pump, take/send it to a "pump guy". Hmmmm, where could we find a pump guy?
thats what I figured. Ill be calling the diesel shop for parts
The pilot tube# is either> 16320 or 16323 depending on your pump #.. A GOOD pump shop will have the tool to PULL it out, instead of dismantling the entire pump to PRESS it out.. P-tube is around 25.00 + labor.. if you attempt to do it yourself, there is a precise dimension it gets pressed back too.. measure before removing..
Personally, i'd just PM thepumpguysc and send it to him.
the injection shop wants to do a whole rebuild Thepumpguy i will send you a pm
I want to give a very special thanks to THEPUMPGUYSC for a wonderful job on my injection pump. He did a complete overhaul with an eid upgrade and the pump worked wonders when I got it back. Im very happy and money well spent. I want to thank you again for a fast turn around and a great rebuild. I hope to send more pumps your way in the future
Happy to help..
Hello, I know that this particular thread is really old at this point, But our non profit organization has ran into a similar problem with our Case 580 C diesel back hoe but ours had just had a fresh built injector pump with all new injectors installed just before we purchased it and ours is filling the oil with Diesel as well. I didnt own it when it had the new injectors and pump installed, is the tube that you all spoke about something that would have already been changed out with the pump or is it something different? I cant seem to find anyone willing to work on it for us out here in the middle of Oklahoma bc most mobile machinery mechanics say ours is to old to work on. Lol. Its the newest machine we own. Lol Thabks for any advice
The fuel is most likely coming from the brass “pilot tube” in the front of the pump, where the drive shaft seals are. The previous owner or mechanic rolled the 1st seal.. The seal p# is, “10453”.(2) U can getm at your local fuel shop or online.. Whomever works on it, make sure they tie the throttle back to wide open.. before removing the pump..
Its easy to replace the seals, using the stansdyne install tools make it much less likely to tear or roll the seals
True.. I always tell my customers to post a “wanted” thread asking for 1.. Seeing they’re mostly a 1x use tool.. folks would love to get rid of it for a couple of bucks..
I should rent mine out
I use to send mine with the pump.. the tube to put the seals ON the drive shaft AND the pliers.. UNTIL I got the tube back smashed to smithereens.. they use to be made of metal.. not anymore.!! They’re plastic now..& cost over $30.00.!! Someone told me they use a fuel line or a/c line removal tool.. I just looked on Google and u can get “the tube, the pliers and 2 seals” for 30.00.!!!! On flea-bay..
fuel tranfore pump on side of the engine
One thing that wasn't asked, Is it getting fuel in the oil with the engine running or when it's sitting? I have a 350 case dozer that doesn't have a check valve on the return line. It doesn't make oil when it's running but it does when it's sitting, even with a fuel line shut off. Pretty much the same pump
Possible that the “Pilot Tube” is grooved.?? That’s the brass tube in the front of the pump housing, that the black seals on the drive shaft ride it. A LOT and I mean A LOT of diy pump jobs, skip that part..I’m not saying U skipped that step, I’m just sayin, that’s what it sounds like..
I don't think it's grooved, It hasn't run for more then 20 hours since I rebuilt the engine and the pump. I put a new brass tube in. The old one did have a groove in it. I used epoxy for it. My only thought is there is a void in the epoxy or I used the wrong size tube. I used the tool to squeeze the seals during install and even greased the inside of the tube but same problem. When it gets warm enough I am going to pull the pump again and send it to the pumpguy to see if there is something I missed
I’ve seen a space or 2 missed with epoxy cause leaks.. Don’t rely on that tool 100%. I use it too and still have TO MAKE SURE it catches ALL SIDES.. Most of the time u have to pull the pump 1/2way back out to SEE if the seal didn’t flip.. It sux but the tool isn’t foolproof.. Good luck