Hi All, First time poster here. New and proud owner of a late 70's Case 580c (pretty sure it is 1979). I am giving it a little TLC, replacing the front tires, and when I raised the front end up to take the front wheels off - I noticed quite a bit of play on the left side. The play and gap is in between what appears to be the king pin and the axle (yoke ?) I am trying to figure out what parts I need to order to get this tightened up. Should I order a King Pin Replacement kit ? The bit of research I have done makes it look like it is missing a bearing (needle bearing ?) to take the play out. Hoping the pictures below help identify the components. And hoping someone here with more experience may be able to shed some light. I definitely appreciate this forum, and look forward to being a regular user. Thank you in advance!
Here's the diagram of the axle and king pin.
Welcome to HEF, MD_Tractor_85 ! Click HERE for the complete parts book. Thanks to the good people at Minnparr you can download any or all of the manuals for your 580C HERE.
Hi, Thank you both, Coy & Tinkerer. I will order the kingpin kit.. and give it my best shot! Looks like I am going to have to buy a torch now! Tinkerer, thank you for the links to parts & manuals. Coy, in that diagram you shared.. Do you think I also need part #11 ? (The thrust bearing). Are you able to tell based on the picture I shared ? Thanks again
The repair kit will have everything you need.
Ok, excellent. Thanks again Coy,
Don't know if you ordered parts yet, but I got mine from reliable aftermarket parts for my C and everything in the kit was good quality and fit right together, I've gotten several parts from them got here quick,no issues..The kit in question is D103156 and is still listed about $82...Sometimes if you search R.A.P. through the EBAY you will get free shipping on parts, they will be a couple of bucks more with free shipping, compare their regular site to ebay when ordering if that makes any sense...
Awesome, thank you for the contact Stinky. I did already order from a different site (broken). But I will definitely check out R.A.P for future parts... As Im sure there will be much more!!! I plan on attempting the brakes in the next couple of months..
I don't want to hijack this tread, has anyone change the pivot mounts? I looking at changing mine...
Re using needle roller (Torrington) bearings in the repair of a collapsed bearing - if the bore of the housing has been damaged in any way, the new bearing will not last very long at all. Plus, the new bearings need to be a press fit in the machined bore.
Alrman... Was that referring to the fix that I have on my hands ?
Yes indeed.
Ok. I am hoping I am understanding your response correctly.. I do have brand new needle bearings (qty 2), as well as 1 new thrust bearing. I still have not pressed the old pin out... So I do not yet know if the bore has been damaged. I am hoping for the best. I also do not have a hydraulic press to use for putting the new bearings into the bore... I was hoping I could get by with a bearing set and some gentle hammering to get them into where they need to go.
I don't know the status of your Kingpin. I had a similar situation. I had the kingpin kit. I had a propane (think handheld for plumbing) torch..... was useless. Friend said I need a "Rosebud" and I had no idea what he meant. (all this was 10 years ago) Kingpin got worse and last year, I finally decided it's time to put a fight to fixing it. Another friend (who's got a full fledged machine shop) brought his rosebud over, useless. I had wailed on the top of the pin to "drive" it out....DON"T DO THAT. I mushroomed it and created more issues. I had cut the pin with my saw to get the steering knuckle out of the way (yes I had that much slop!) Gave an idea to my machinest friend.... he fabricated a "triangle" and I bought a bottle jack. I think it was ??? do they make them 30 tons? It's a stout little booger. We tried several configurations. Bent some steel. This pin was NOT going to come out easily. I had sprayed it for probably 2-3 months with oil to try to let it work its way in there. Ultimately, he built this inverted "A" frame and we put the bottle jack in there. We had a huge amount of pressure on this and again, the pin wasn't budging. Then a lightbulb went off in my head.....I grabbed the sledge and didn't hit the pin but instead, hit the arm that holds it with all the pressure tensioned up in there. It gave way, moved about 1/2 an inch BUT the entire machine shook. There was a lot of stress going on. Once it moved a little, I knew "we won" and now was a matter of being persistent. We finally got it out, I honed the bore and the new one barely, but simply slid right in. It had to be essentially perfectly aligned. So, if you have any issues, this may or may not help you but your knuckle might be in the way. Hopefully you have it out and it "simply slid" right out.... Mine wasn't so agreeable. Oh, and when we had all the pressure built up, it wanted to torque the assembly to the side. Just happened that I had a grade 100 chain so we wrapped things up with the chain and then attached the chain to the other side of the machine to keep the assembly vertical so the pressure would push up rather than out to the side. This contraption was straight when we began. Below was early attempt with some threaded rods. It was a major failure (useless attempt) The final attempt was with an all steel, inverted "A" frame to hold the jack in place. Some of the damage Maybe not clear is on the very top piece, there is a hole for the Kingpin to go through. We were pretty tickled for getting this done in my front yard! It really gave a fight. I think the machine is around 1987 time frame so it's had plenty of time to rust/sieze/lock itself in there.
Clearly the frame isn't inverted. That is my mistake calling it an inverted "A" frame. I realize nobody cares.
When I did one of the kingpins on my 580C it was so seized an hour with a rosebud was futile, would not budge with a BFH..wound up cutting the king pin on the top and bottom of the spindle to remove, I was afraid I was going to damage or bend something with that much heat,(lucky for you the top bearing is gone so you have the same option if needed) I took the spindle to work and once again proceeded with the rosebud and a very large press, still no luck..Wound up burning the center out of the kingpin,ever so slowly so as to not smoke the tip on the torch then put it in the same press and it pushed out pretty easy, just something to think about if you get jammed up...
Wow, Coytee... Thank you for the very elaborate response. It is a bit intimidating to know what I might be up against.. I haven't had a chance to go after it yet (still lining up the torch components), but I will update with pictures when I do finally go after it. The only things I have done so far are: - Removed the bottom snap ring, zerk fitting, and bottom plate which the zerk fitting screws into. - Tapped out the 'set pin', cleaned up the entire area with brush, and sprayed some lubricating oil in hopes of it working into a few fractions of a millimeter... I did give it a few whacks with a 4lb hammer, but I used a spare old king pin as a 'punch' in between the lodged kingpin and hammer head... in hopes of avoiding the mushroom effect. However I am not going to hammer anymore.. Sounds like it has potential to do more harm than good. The most discouraging things I just read from your posts (& Stinkys post), is that the heat didnt really help....?? At this point, I am kinda counting on the heat. I was planning to rig up a similar bottle jack setup, put the hyrdraulic pressure on it from the bottle jack.. And then apply and distribute some torch heat to it and hope it budges. Now another serious question has been raised: Do I try to force the pin out downward ... Toward the ground ? Or upward ? (I was planning on attempting all of this without taking the front axle off. Just bracing &/or chaining wherever I need to in order to keep things in place when I go to town on it.
I have developed a few more questions about how to properly install the new king pin kit... If anyone knows the answers please share: 1.) The Needle Bearings have one rounded end, and one flat end. Does it matter which end goes in first ? I.e. in the diagram shared earlier by Coy, part #8... Taking the lower needle bearing for example. Would that be installed flat end up or flat end down ? 2.) Does the Front Axle Spindle Bearing (Part #11 on diagram) go above the spindle arm or below the spindle arm when reinstalled ? In the diagram they show it hovering above... Just want to confirm. 3.) The kit also came with Qty 3 large washers.. Looks like part #12 on the diagram. (So these are also known as 'race bearings'..?) It shows where one goes on the diagram. Where do the other 2 go ? I would guess one on each side of the spindle bearing, but I hate to guess... Appreciate any feedback and direction anyone has on this. Thank you.
From the service manual. The bearing position is explained in it
Thank you Tinkerer
1. I have no clue 2. I am certainly NO expert on any of this. I'd classify myself as more of the typical dunderhead backyard wannabe mechanic. So with that said... I would probably think your situation would dictate this. I originally wailed on mine with a sledge (at the advice of someone who's opinion I trust.....sigh) That turned out to be a big mistake because I mushroomed the top and now there was no way it was going to go DOWN.....which means, now, my only choice is to cut the mushroom off or go vertical. In my case, I had pretty easy access so once we came up with the "A" frame to hold the jack, it ended up working fine. Glancing at your picture and schematic, it looks like your steering knuckle fits "inside the ears" on the axle? So you have the axle piece both above and below with the knuckle taking up most of the middle? Mine was essentially the opposite. Mine was over/under verses "in between". Do you have access to cut the pin so you can extract the knuckle? Could you then put....what's it called... dang, getting old sucks lol. A hydraulic "hockey puck" and put this in the center section to push the top one vertical and then the bottom one down? It's right on the tip of my tongue (fingertips I suppose)..... power jack? No... well crud. Someone will likely know what I'm talking about. Looking at your schematic, if you have the "wings" above and below that hold the rod.... that might be on my list of thoughts. Of course, if you can rig something similar to what we did, you can do the whole thing instead of two pieces, but that knuckle might be in the way. I had clean access to the axle. If the "A" frame can fit over your spindle, that might work for you too. I know I'm rambling a bit.... Looking at your schematic again, and knowing how my machine (the ENTIRE machine) had a violent shake when mine finally gave way, I know there is a LOT of pressure/tension in there. My entire axle held the Kingpin so I had something like eight inches of contact of the kingpin to the axle. You don't have that. If you put 20/30 tons of pressure, I wonder if you could bend/torque one of your mounting points. Bugger one of those up just a degree and I'd imagine you have compounded your issue because (using my experience) your new pin won't line up. We tried drilling my Kingpin too. My friend had a magnetic drill with a bit that I saw go through 1/2" steel almost like butter.....but that steel (the stabilizer pad of my backhoe) wasn't hardened. The pin is. I would still probably try that as part of my backplans. Though I'd only try that if I had already in fact, cut the pin twice so I could pull the knuckle out. Now I'd only have 2-3 inches to drill. Another thought hits me... though I don't know if this could be genuinely "damaging" or just annoyingly damaging (as though that makes sense) This is a question more for those who understand welding. So this is just throwing spagetti on the walls. What might happen if you welded the pin to your knuckle. Fire machine up and now, use your hydraulics to add some torque to the pin via the weld. (I'm guessing the weld would snap) We tried that on mine. Welded some steel to it as a lever. Attached that lever to a cheater pole.... big fail. Pulled out my neighbors tractor and chained it to his tractor. Snapped the lever off the pin. In my case, I had a good 2-3 inches of pin sticking out in the open and you don't have that. So just throwing ideas on the wall. Good luck with this. I know how frustrated I got with mine.....but I don't generally get frustrated.... I get determined and focused. (my wife would tell you to a fault perhaps) I knew I'd get mine out, I just didn't know which solution would finally do it.....and kept at it. You'll get it and when you do your smile is going to be so big, it will slap you into the upcoming week.
Be sure to remove the TAPERED keeper pin from the king pin or the kingpin will never move.
I've seen parts destroyed by somebody not knocking those out.
I had to drill out a tapered pin one time. It was so dam tight and rusty that it couldn't be driven out. The threaded end was broken off, then it swelled from beating on it with a punch and hammer. Never Seize should always be used when reinstalling them.
Yes, seldom do they come out easily when the nut is removed. I've drilled one or two myself. Stuck king pins themselves are another story also. I built a press with a 50ton cylinder for that job and when they finally let go, one needs to be clear of the area. Just because the spindle spins around the top and bottom of the pin doesn't mean it's not stuck in the axle beam severely.
Thought I'd better add to this conversation. I have done more than a few of these repairs. The fact is that some come apart easier than others, but in saying that 580C's are getting older & if they have not been apart for a long time, chances are that you may have a battle on your hands. I have only ever hit these pins downwards, reason being, in the field you are limited to what you can use - BIG hammer, pin punch with long handle & oxy + a heavy duty fabricated steel axle stand. It's very important to place the edge of the stand (mine is 6"RHS with 3/8" end plates) as close as possible to the bottom side of the king pin - almost scraping it as it comes out. Put the weight of the machine on it & raise the loader frame out of the way & lock it in place. This minimalizes any flex while striking the king pin - You want all that force to to be delivered to the pin & not be lost by things bouncing around. If the axle is not supported this way a large percentage of the hammer strike is lost. The drift I use is slightly smaller in diameter than the king pin (around 1 3/4") & long enough to drive it through. A shorter pin maybe used to get things moving. The pin is attached to a long handle & the hammer is 14lb. Without saying, it's a two man job & the guy on the pin must hold it accurately in centre of the king pin & perfectly in line with it. The guy on the hammer must be proficient in using that tool - full swing + full force. Sometimes a small sturdy platform to stand on is required, to make the strike point a comfortable spot. Perfect strikes will not move/shoot the pin away - if the pin is being shot one way & the other with each hit, a tight pin will never move, & risk of mushrooming becomes greater. Either the pin holder or the hammer swinger has to raise their game. Swinging a sledge hammer properly, I have always said is an art form - seeing it done accurately with full force, with an even flow of hits has always impressed me. Prepare the machine & tools; Heat the back of the stub axle & don't be shy - get a dull glow on it - use the rosebud as it will heat faster; & quickly begin swinging before too much heat get transferred to the king pin. If the first attempt fails - best let things cool down again (naturally, NO WATER) & then try again later. By all means give the king pin a few good hits before heating - you just never know your luck!
Comment on using a sledge... When I did mine, one thing I tried (in vain I might add.....I've got noodle arms lol) Anyway, as I recall, I got a piece of PVC that was say, 8" long and had a smaller diameter iron rod that was say 10" long (both were shorter I just don't recall) Anyway, having the longer strike rod than the PVC allowed the PVC to hold it in place while I noodled on it with all my strength. (A year prior I had fallen and broken my Humerus which is the upper arm bone.... about 2-3 inches below the shoulder socket. It wasn't up to full strength....then about 2-years prior to that, I had on my OTHER arm, "frozen shoulder, "SLAP" tear and a torn rotator cuff.... so I'm not going to intimidate anyone with my "guns". For me in my situation, using the sleeve to hold the drive pin, didn't work.
Update: With pictures. The pictures will show my situation. The king pin is 100% seized in the Spindle portion (dont know the name). Not the 2 holes of the axle. The entire spindle with seized king pin is free to move about inside those two axle holes. Alrman - I appreciate your recommendations, though for now I am going to try to avoid hammering. If all else fails I will try hammering. Tinkerer - I was able to get the 'keeper pin' out...fairly easy. Thanks for reminding me though. I have also gone ahead and removed the wheel hub, disconnected the power steering ball joint linkage, and the tie rod linkage on the side with the king pin repair -- just getting things out of the way and isolating the issue. I happen to have a manual log-splitter. I dont know the force on the bottle jack attached to it, but Im guessing its at least 12 Ton. Its already connected to a steel I-Beam, so might end working out in my favor. I am going to try and position the manual log splitter so that all of the force is directed on the pin, and while its being hydraulically pressed...I will take a torch to it. Distribute the torch and hope for the best. Basically an in-field version of a hydraulic press ( I don't have an actual shop hydraulic press.) AND... I definitely plan on cutting the wedge point from the log splitter off, so that it is flat. It is obviously not safe in these pictures with the wedge on the splitter... I was just playing with what I had on had to see if it might work.
So again... Imagine that wedge on the log splitter removed so that it is flat, so the pin I am using as a driver 'punch' cannot slide off. And you see I now have everything else disconnected so the issue is isolated. I am hoping that the hydraulic bottle jack pressing on it... With some simultaneous heat distributed from an oxy-acetylene torch... Is enough to get it to budge. If not... I have no clue what I will have to try next. Definitely knee deep into this situation now.. Trying my best. If anyone has anymore suggestions I am all ears and appreciative. As you can see this attempt will be trying to drive the pin upwards... not downwards.. Unless any experts can tell me I should flip it and try to drive it downwards ?
I know someone might look at the hydraulic log splitter setup and see how dangerous it looks. Just to clarify, I didnt put any pressure on it, was just seeing if it might line up. And it does feel like I am onto something. Coytee - It is kind of along the lines of your bottle jack with A-frame setup.
The good news is where your thrust bearing is missing you have plenty of room to cut the pin off with a torch or cutoff wheel then it can be drilled though and pressed out if it should come to that
If it were me, I'd slice that pin through the area where the thrust bearing was and the bottom of the severed pin should easily remove dropping the assembly down. Slice the pin through in the now gap at the top and pull the spindle free transporting to a shop with a upright press to remove the stuck pin in the spindle.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Question Jonas302: if it comes to having to cut it our and Hydraulic press it.. what is the need for drilling a hole for ? Would the hole be drilled right down the center of the pin ? I'm still hoping I get lucky and don't have to cut it out. I guess it's nice to know the option is there though
If it get to that point you would drill though the center of the pin if a press doesn't push it out the hole may relieve some pressure after that you start enlarging the hole with cutting torch will shrink the pin until it decides to fall out Consider that the last option because the pin will defiantly be removed at that point Hopefully your splitter press will work if not you have some options in mind
Interesting. Would have never guessed a center drilled hole would help.. But I guess it makes sense. I will let everyone know how it goes after I modify the wedge on the log splitter, get it set into position and then put the torch on it. I am hoping for the best. I will send a picture once I get the modified log splitter in place, now that I have everything else disconnected.
I agree with Jonas and 1693. Save yourself some time and a log splitter and cut through the pin. Take the entire spindle out with the remainder of the stuck pin to someone with a shop press.
This is printed in English isn't it????
I have done the center drilled hole and cutting torch method many times. I have a demolition style cutting torch. A good burn requires a big tip and high flow of oxygen. It is very easy to tilt the torch head and gouge the bore that the pin is in.
I'm busy working today (though from home) but am still busy... so haven't read everything. Disclaimer: Presuming I'm seeing it correctly and interpreting your process correctly, then "me personally" gets nervous with the hydraulic setup. I personally would be very nervous that I'd bend, ever so slightly, one of those ears that hold the pin and cause a greater issue. For all I know, they may be strong enough to withstand that pressure....and that's my point, I don't know therefore I get nervous as I see it as a potential problem. I'd probably be measuring for thickness to see if I could cut with a sawzall, grinder.... the upper and lower pin so the knuckle can come out. Now there's no way to bend the ears that hold it and you can man handle it. One of my bearings was worn enough that I had plenty of room to get a cutoff wheel in there (verses a sawzall) and got it cut. Notice I don't say anything about flames.....that's because I don't know anything about them and if they'd work or damage something else (note that the cutoff wheel or sawzall can damage something else)
I punctured an eye many years ago using a sledge hammer and pounding on a pin. I also would cut the pin if it were mine. Cutting torch would be my choice. Burning the core out would be my last choice on MD's pin. The log splitter looks scary to me. I would be hiding behind a tree if I were there.
Ok, thanks for the input guys. I haven't used the log splitter setup, was just positioning it to see if it might work. It does look scary, and I don't want to do anything foolish. I have been trying to avoid cutting the pin, simply because it seemed like an insane amount of work... But sounds like that is what a lot of you are recommending.
I have done many of these. The torch method, as mentioned above, is the most efficient.
Thanks Vetech63. Just to confirm: when you say it is the best method, are you referring to using a torch to cut entirely thru the pin ? So that I can then remove the entire assembly (seized pin & spindle) and take that entire assembly to a machine shop with a heavy duty hydraulic press ? Thanks again
Exactly that my friend.
Ok, thank you for confirming. Sounds like that seems to be a consensus amongst several here with a lot more experience than I have. I am very appreciative for all who have chimed in and offered input. Will update with pictures after I cut it free. Any predictions on what size hydraulic press will be needed to press the pin out ?
This video was where my idea originally came from to try and press it out with heat: (not sure how to create a clickable link here...?) Coytee... I understand your concern about bending one of those 'ears' (what is the proper term for those ? The holes on the axle that house the bearings and kingpin) But if you look at my picture, and the same thing they did in this linked video... Doesn't it appear that all of the force from the hydraulic press is directed back 'into itself' ? Meaning... How could that top ear possibly bend up ? THe force of the bottle jack would have to be strong enough that it would bend the entire opposite end of the log splitter (the end with the wedge on it).
Not seeing it, I don't know what you have to push or support on. You can't push on both sides of the pin as you negate your pressure so you have to butt up against something. If you look at my picture, the way it was setup, with no flanges I might add, all the pressure was on the pin verses axle. The axle was pretty beefy without the way the flanges stick out. Might hold up fine for all I know. I'm just a chicken-pants since I don't have what might be considered the proper tools.
In the video they had a 12 ton Harbor Freight press. $169.99. I have a 20 ton press (not a HF). Be sure to post pictures, they will help others reading this thread in the future looking for help.
Status Update: Heeded everyone's advice.. Finally found time to cut the pin above & below. Angle Grinder with metal disc did 98% of the work. Will now take to a machine shop with proper press to press it out properly. Thanks again for all of the suggestions thus far.
Did one of these yesterday on a 580k. 5hr done & dusted! Including a return trip of 200km travel. 6 good hits of 12lb hammer & the game was over! Got lucky again
Statue Update with Pictures & Questions: The Good: Had the old seized pin pressed out at Amish machine Shop. Was a thing of beauty to watch. Had the put the torch on it for a couple mins whilst underneath a behemoth press. Glad I didn't try myself. The Bad: Went to re-assemble, and stumbled on a few issues. First is more of a question: Picture below: There is a small hole in the backside of the spindle knuckle.. too small for a zerk, and not threaded.. Is that supposed to be a 'pressure exit' hole for when pumping in grease ? What is that hole for ? I hate the thought of having any places for moisture to enter the freshly cleaned system. Second: After reassembling, it appears there is quite a bit more space now in between the spindle knuckle and the yokes, where the needle bearing sits. Like, Room for about 6-8 ,more of those washers kinda space (I currently have only 1 washer in between the spindle knuckle and the lower yoke). Such that the upper needle bearing is exposed. Pictures below: Any advice on remedy ? It can't be good for the bearing, or entire system. All I can think of is to try and order about 1 dozen of those washers and add as many as necessary to the bottom (between the lower yoke and spindle knuckle) until it takes that extra space out of the equation.. Any thoughts and feedback are welcomed as usual. Thanks.
1) The Hole - was used as a lathe centre support when the spindle was first made/machined in the factory. - will be a good idea to plug that with some silicone or epoxy liquid metal. 2) There seems to be some wear on the top side of the spindle where the thrust race sits - due to either this last bearing collapse or a previous one. You probably have no choice than to fill the gap with spacers - but they will need to go UNDER the spindle - on the lower side. Another option is to weld the top face & machine it flat. Because there is a big gap, might be an idea to measure the gap & have a single spacer/washer fabricated. If the spacer is put in the upper location it will eventually get worn out from carrying the weight of the machine. The way the upper torrington bearing is visible in pic 3&4 is not right.... it should be flush with the bottom of the upper bore?? Maybe worn as well??
Thanks Alrman. I will plug that little hole on the backside. Agreed, the upper needle bearing is not correct. But adding the right amount of washers, and/or the right size single washer...should push that bearing up flush inside the bore. I wouldn't know where to begin to have a correct thickness single washer fabricated.. Anybody have any leads for that ?
I have made a few spacers with a couple of hole saws, and a piece of steel flat stock thicker than needed. I used a piece of wood with two screws in it, inserted to the ID of the spacer to be able to sand them down on a vice held belt sander. I frequently checked the spacer with a micrometer to ensure it was being sanded evenly. It should be easy to make one for your kingpin gap. Unfortunately it needs to be made before the pins are pressed in.
If the upper bearing has slid down to meet the thrust bearing, that indicates that it is loose & that is not going to give your repair any longevity. Did the upper & lower bores for the torrington bearings retain their smooth machined finish? Or did the old king pin gouge them a little? The Amish "machine shop" should be able to make your washer?
Alrman - yes, the bore is probably worn down a bit.. The torrington bearings go in & out with relative ease.. Is there anything I can do to increase longevity ? This fix has been a good bit of work already.. I would hate to see it be all for not. Latest issue - I think I added too many washers. Such that I cannot get the upper snap ring back in place..
You will need the snap ring to retain that cap. The only thing I'm concerned with is it looks like the thrust bearing isn't making good contact all the way around its perimeter. It looks heavily loaded to the inside which will fail it sooner than later. In your pic I believe I see a small gap to the wheel side of the thrust bearing.
Have you tried fitting the circlip & then tapping down on it? The cap could be held higher than the circlip groove because of the oring needing to be squashed down a little. OR the lower side of the upper bearing bore is worn & there are too many washers fitted - pushing the torrington too high in the bore - not leaving enough space for the circlip. Re the tightness of the torrington bearings - they should be a press fit - quite firm. If the bores are damaged they need welding & machining to make them true again. If there is any gap between the bearing case & the parent bore in the axle - the bearings WILL fail in just a few hours of operation. I have performed many "in the field" repairs to these axles by welding & grinding the bores & installing steel bushings instead of the torrington bearings. The steel bushings will tolerate some bore irregularity, whereas the torrington bearings will not. In reality about your repair - it depends on how much use the machine will actually get each year. Technically speaking, it's all lubed up now, & if it fails again in a few years, (maybe sooner ) it will all come apart much easier & you can deal with it then. Also, in pic #3 why is the cotter pin hole welded up??
Good observation on the welded up pin hole, Alrman. I missed that. He had what appeared to be the correct tapered pin the hole in post #53.
I had to have a washer welded onto the head of the keeper pin.. otherwise it was able to pull thru
The idea of the cotter pin is to hold the king pin tight in the trunion. The welded washer is preventing the cotter pin from doing it's job. Over time you may cause undue wear in the trunion. Better idea would have been to put some weld on the flat side of the cotter pin & grind some off till you got a snug fit holding the king pin in place.
As Alrman said, that pin has to be tight in the trunnion. You may have a hole with NO taper in it. Some dummy may have drilled the hole out because they didn't have the correct size tapered pin.
Update: I took it apart again, removed 1 of the washers from below the knuckle, and that gave it enough space to at least get the snap ring back in place on the top.... However it had to be without the O-ring. Would have had to remove another washer to get the O-ring back in. I understand the importance of the o-ring, and my thoughts now are to try and search for a same diameter gasket, that is thinner than the O-ring, in hope that is serves the same purpose and allows for enough space to still get the snap ring back in place. (Either that or maybe remove some material from the disc-plate that has the zerk fitting screwed in the middle - remove a little bit from the top perimeter, to allow for the snap ring to go back in. Admittingly, when I removed 1 washer, it allowed the upper needle bearing to drop back down a trigger - such that it is slightly visible. The bottom line is - the machine is a 1979... this part and area has been worn a bit loose from being run without needle bearings for many years... And I think I am going to have to live with my fix and just hope it lasts for as long as possible. It would be painful for me if the fix doesn't hold up for long.. But I dont know what else to do.. I dont have the means to be welding on material and re-machining it back down to proper spec. Same goes for the keeper pin. I welded that washer on...to the very outside...because if I didn't, then I could sit there and keep tightening the nut on the other end and it would just continue to pull the keeper pin all the way thru. I understand it is not perfect. I am trying to picture your fix on that Alrman.. Are you suggesting welding some material onto the flat portion of the keeper pin itself ? And then grinding it back flat ?? Seems like it would be hard to make it such that it still gave a good flat surface -to- flat surface contact.. As is it at least keeps the king pin from spinning. But I am sure there is play.
1 more thing, meant to ask.. I saw on a separate thread the great solution someone came up with of mounting a dome on top of the yoke, above the zerk plate.. To prevent any water from collecting. Do you think I could get away with just cleaning the tops and then applying some silicone ? And/or flex seal ?? Something that would essentially seal out any water...but still allow me to get back in when the time comes with a little force, etc. Thoughts ? Thanks
Re shaping the flat on the cotter pin - Grinders are useful tools. A good thick bead of silicone around the top plate is a great idea to seal water getting into the upper bearing, instead of the oring, plus it will help stop the circlip rusting away.