I just bought a 580c with the 207 engine. The PO told me it sat for a while and then wouldn't start... Flex ring I figured. He told me he drained all the fuel and blew out the lines and it wouldn't start. So, I pulled the pump top, sure enough flex ring bits everywhere. I pulled the pump and I dis-assembled and cleaned everything, resealed with a stanadyne kit, New style governor cup, marked timing line from old one, brake cleaned, Torqued everything to the correct torques and re-installed. Tractor started instantly once the injectors were bled and the lines tightened YAY! right... Well, It "Idles" at 2,000 rpm. I thought maybe the idle screw was up so I tried lowering that with no change. I had the governor linkage in the body already when I slid the body down over the Pump head. (Pump head was vertical) I wired the throttle full open to prevent the governor falling apart before install. What did I miss or do wrong? Only thing I can think of is maybe the governor linkage is on the high part of the sleeve. There is a notch on the sleeve at the side for the linkage that is different than the DBFCC ones I have worked on before. I know I put the sleeve in the right way just thinking maybe That would cause it. I searched and didn't find any other post with my problem. TIA for any insight
Forgot to add I cleaned the return line check valve too. Brake clean, blow out with air, repeat until good flow 1 way and very little flow the other way
Do u get any rpm change when you move the throttle to hi.?? I’m wondering if u dont have a weight out of kilter..?? How about the main gov spring, there’s a cross piece.. The short end of the x piece goes to the bottom. Kinda hard to explain.
I do get throttle change if I give it throttle. It goes up to about 3k rpm. Is this the Cross piece you mean?
3000 is WAY TO HI.!! U see the 2 tits in the center of the linkage, where the spring sits.?? Now look at your spring, is it open on both ends or is there a x coil.?? The smaller of the x coil goes to the bottom titty..
Does your pump have 2 low idle screws.?? 1 on the top cover & 1 on the throttle.??
I know 3k is too high and I immediately knew something wasn't right The spring does have an x coil on one end. I believe I put the center of the spring on the top titty. The pump does have 2 low idle screws. 1 on the throttle arm and the 2nd on the housing just below the top cover. I tried adjusting both and neither changed the speed.
The pump is a DBO431AJ3205 model # and rpm says 3231d53
I just finished one today.. The cross coil goes between the 2 tittys..so the spring covers both and sits flat.. I’m not sure what ur talking about with the screws.?? If it had 2 low idle screws, it would be in the center of the top cover. Seeing I just finished one w the exact pump #.. I know it only has 1.. on the throttle.. I think I know what happened.. The piece that goes on the throttle, inside the pump has 2 ways it’ll connect..(the slots) U may have put it on in the wrong slot on the throttle.?? Idk what screws u were screwing.. U have a throttle on the left side..& a shut off lever on the Right.. On the THROTTLE u have a hi idle and low idle screws.. On the SHUT OFF, u have 2 screws that u shouldn’t touch.!! Oh, what about the shut off cam.?? Did u put the tail towards the fuel inlet.??
I tried adjusting the low idle screw On the throttle, I didn't touch the screws on the shutoff I do remember the spring sitting a bit funny so I bet I didn't put that in between the titties The 2nd screw I was talking about has a plastic cover on it on the outside. On the other pumps I worked on there was just a screw in this hole. But on this pump there is a long screw with an allen screw head and a nut to lock it that reaches all the way down to the metering valve arm There is one on the pump in this picture https://delcodiesel.com/product/dbo431-3235/ I think I did put the tail towards the fuel inlet on the shut off cam. If you mean the part that slides down and locks the shafts
That screw w the plastic cap is called a TORQUE SCREW.. It holds the metering valve when the power is needed.. From the face (top) of the nut, to the top of the screw should be 7.55mm..or close to it.. Good luck
I put it back where it was but thank you for the measurement, I will doublecheck that tomorrow Thank you for your help and for putting up with us guys that try to do this on our own. I know we must try your patience sometime!
Lol.. u have no idea.!! Let’s just say, it’s a good thing there’s no VOICE msging on this site.!! The 7.55mm is a ballpark measurement.. If this is yours, you’ll be able to set it to your liking after working it a bit..
It is mine, I bought the machine for $1250. I am mainly trying to get it running to be able to move it from where it is and get the backhoe boom up for my tow guy to move it home I bet your voice would be Hoarse at times
Pump guy, Would you have the spec sheet for the DBO431AJ3205 pump?
Those rear tires are worth what you paid, you suck. Joe H
Lol, I know. Ya get lucky once in a great while!
What spec do you need.??
I guess the roller dimension mostly. I didn't touch it on this pump but good to have for future folly's. I tried to find the spec sheet online but no luck yet. I like to have the spec sheet for the pumpI am working on
1.965”
Thank you
I hope it works this time because u used up all your life lines and phone a friend.. lol
Oh Oh now I'm screwed! Went over to the machine today to make sure I had the governor arm on the governor thrust sleeve correctly, Which was correct. Set the torque screw to the measurement you gave me. Pulled the Shut off cam to be able to pull the throttle shaft and shut off shafts out. everything seems to move freely. When I went to put the shutoff cam back in the slot it launched somewhere into never never land. Checked down in the pump to make sure it didn't go there and I am mostly sure it didn't go there. Working in a dirt backyard. Couldn't find it even with a magnet. Does anything look out of place in these pictures?
If it falls into the pump, it’ll be down on the shut off side by the mv.. fish with a magnet.. I notice a yellow paint chip by the mv.. The p# is: 12249 Do yourself a HUGE FAVOR.. in the future when working on things that’ll fall.. start the job by laying down a tarp.!! It’s a hellofa lot easier taking 5-10 minutes wiping it down, rather than taking hours looking for a part.!! I’ve gotten in the habit of taking “Puppy Pads” on service calls..& before the 1st wrench comes out, the puppy pad goes down.!! Saved my bacon SOOOO MANY TIMES, I should write the company a thank you letter..
Great idea on the tarp thanks. Thank you for the part # I have another pump that will be for a different 580 if I ever rebuild the engine so I will steal the shutoff cam from that while I wait for a new one. I fished in the whole pump with a magnet. Even down in the governor area with a magnetized screwdriver figuring it HAD to go into the worst place possible right? The pump inside was spotless before todays debacle. Thanks for noticing the paint flecks I will get those out next time I go torment myself on the tractor. 2 strikes today. Bought a hydraulic hose I was hoping would fix the leaky one and one end was the wrong size.
Had great luck today. Turns out it is a 1980 580C Went back to the machine with the right hydraulic hose and a shutoff cam. Cleaned the paint flecks out, put the shutoff cam on and buttoned up the pump. I like to fill the pump with clean diesel before I put the top back on. Seems to help with priming the injectors quicker. Tractor fired right up and idled like it is supposed to. Not sure what changed other than taking the governor linkage out and putting it back just the way it was but hey! I am not complaining that it decided to work correctly. I used the tractor for 2 hours moving a bunch of heavy rocks for the guy I bought it from so I know this thing works great! NO brakes but.. it's a backhoe right? Thanks again pump guy for your help
Glad it worked out for you.. Your welcome..
Speaking of life lines maybe you have one more left in stock lol I recently bought a 580c not running and I think I have same flex ring issues I have been reading about on these pumps! Does it matter that I pulled pump off my 207d without putting timing marks on tdc I know there is two dots that need to align in pump shaft from gears with rubber cups is that all I need to do is make sure the pump shaft goes back to original location where the two dots line up again? Just wondering before I start moving all internal pump parts around
Yup.. dot to dot.. that’ll get the pump and engine on #1 compression stroke..
I pulled pump off before putting engine in tdc looking at flywheel and marks behind timing gear cover when I pulled injection pump off I looked inside and see that there is a dot inside and one on end of shaft with cup seals ! So you are saying that as long as engine doesn’t turn and I put injection pump back on lining up dot in pump and one on end of shaft everything should be good correct? Don’t matter how many times inner pump turns during disassembly and assembly process as long as dots go back together on end of shaft and inside pump housing are my understanding that correctly?
U r understanding correctly..
Great Thank you sir really appreciated! And as far as rebuild kits do you recommend any source over others ?
Nothing is better than OE.. but ur gonna pay for it.. There’s a bunch of kits that r cheaper.. & “probably” just as good..??
Ok I’ll look around for a place reasonably priced also one last thing do you think I should update the disk inside that seems to break down with the hard hub if I’m reading around properly with my style pump
Just depends on if ur keeping the machine or not.. & how many times u wanna pull it off.?? If ur not keeping the machine and just doing a few jobs around the house and selling it afterwards, DONT spend the money.. That’s one way to think about it.. Another way is, it’s a selling point & easily bumps the price up $1000. if u were to update the pump to the solid weight retainer..& then sell it..
yea that makes complete sense! Thanks again for your expertise my friend!