I have a Case 580c backhoe. I replaced the brake master cylinders, which required the removal of the dash console that required removal of the shuttle and throttle levers/assmbly. After reassembling the console and shuttle/throttle levers and beginning to test my brakes, I noticed that the throttle lever was loose and not staying set. Of course this caused the machine to die without either holding the throttle lever in place or keeping the foot petal pressed enough. I have surfed the web and this forum over several times and not able to find any help on this. And I’ve searched the Operators/Service manuals without any discovery. There must be something that keeps resistance on the throttle lever, but I’m not seeing it anywhere in the linkage. And this was working fine before I removed/disassembled the console/shuttle/throttle to do the master cylinder replacement, so I’ve introduced the problem somewhere. Your expertise is welcome. Thanks!
Tighten nut #6 to put tension on disc #5 that is what holds the throttle lever in place.
Thanks Coy! Seeing and hearing your description is bringing back some memory during disassembly. :/) That console is a bear to navigate. Any best practices for accessing that area? Can it be reached by removing the instrument cluster? Thanks again. Oh, I'm also curious where you located that diagram... service manual? It's resolution is too small for me to see the finer details and reference numbers. Thanks.
You should be able to get to it through the instrument cluster opening. I looked the diagram up on CNH parts website www.mycnhistore.com
If you ever have to take the master out again this is how i did it when i had a C. Take a hole saw and drill a hole on the side of the console across from the master. You can remove it that way, then just plug the hole for next time. Saves a lot with out taking out the console.
Do not get any ( lube, oil ) on the friction disc .
Thanks all. I'm not able to get access through the cluster hole. Still a bit baffled how I disassembled this coming off. But at least the problem is identified... just a matter of access.
Good idea @redranch In hindsight, for sure the better idea. It was a beast. I did finally get the throttle resistance mechanism reconnected. And in doing so, understood why I didn’t remember disassembly… because I didn’t. When I removed the throttle lever, it popped free. I remember hearing a pop, but not knowing what it was. My rpm gauge is no longer working and is pegged out on the high side. Curious now about what may have happened there. I’ll search and post accordingly on that topic. Thanks again all for comments and this community for willingness to share knowledge and experiences.
Paul, How did you get throttle tension hooked back up. Going through same thing. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
What part of the throttle are you trying to hook up
Cody, this spiderman have same problem but how the throttle level to #9 connected does not show how they connected or what with
There is a roll pin that engages item #9 and the tightness of item #4 determines the tension of the hand throttle.
Thanks that's must be the problem because there nothing connecting the two roll pin must have fallen out this backhoe have been sitting up for few year got back together wanted try backhoe out but couldn't figure out how to get throttle to stay
i am replacng master cylinders on my C and there are access holes cut on the side of the dash.I dont think it's enough room to remove brake lines easily, so I am taking the dash off. It is entirely free except for some cable that the manual says is for ether to be injected for a cold start???? I will look to see if I can disconnect it from the engine side becasue the cable does not separate. Also, removing the dash was a nightmare because I had a windshield wiper motor sitting on top of it that was a pain to remove,all the wiring, the throttle lever, the shift lever, it was not fun but if doing both MC's, i figured I might as well give myself as much room as possible.i am also doing both slaves so the floor will come out too. THAT is also a nightmare because I have a heater that has radiator hoses coming up through the floor that have to be disconnected.Luckily i have amonth or so becore I will use the machine,,,
I've worked on Case equipment for over fifty years and have yet to remove the floor plate to do brakes.
is replacing the slaves and bleeding easily done from underneath?
To me it’s easier than removing the floor. I’m not saying it’s all fun n games but it can be done.
I I cut slots in the floor to allow the radiator hoses to remain connected, worked great. I also drilled (with hole saw) 2 holes in the left side of the dash to allow the master cylinder bolts to be removed, easy to replace Master Cylinders.
cutting slots sounds like a great idea. The hoses are the biggest pain because of coolant loss,,everything got put on hold for a few days because the 2 masters were 1/8" wider than the original ones so they did not fit. Vendor is sending out a new set but im thinking those will be the same. I might have to shave down the center bracket to make them fit.
Hose clamping pliers or small needle nose vise grips installed underneath the floor pan close to the heater will minimize coolant loss. You can then pull hoses from heater then floor pan if really needed. Just be careful when removing hoses from heater pipes, may be corroded or brittle, she ain't no spring chicken.
Hi guys, just wanted to post an update in case someone else might have the same issue that I had with my 580C. I had a leak on one MC at the boot.Got a new set, along with 2 new slaves thinking I might as well replace everything at once. and the mc's were too wide.The vendor sent out a completey new order, with 2 masters and 2 slaves. As with the first set, the MCs are too wide and did not fit between the bracket where they mount. So I ended up grinding down a bit to make them fit. Move forward, put all 4 parts in, bled the system and used the machine for a few hours before the pedals went to the floor!!! Removed both masters and found the spring cups had completely disintegrated.This is a brake fluid machine, not hydr. fluid. Also, when I removed the original mc's. there was no snap ring on either of them. I am assuming that was the reason for the leak. So I should have done some homework, and I would have found there is a rebuild kit for around 45 bucks, and it is a simple fix. So that's where I am at now, waiting for 2 repair kits, going to use the original mc bodies and rebuild them. I should have left the perfectly fine slaves and rebuilt the 2 mc's. And, removing the dash is a royal pain, so i cut out a section on the side and bracketed it back on once the job was done.
so i installed the 2 masters with rebuild kits in place, along with 2 new slaves. went to bleed them and both pedals still go to the floor with minimal air or fluid coming out of the bleeders. I am now thinking that the disentigrated rubber had clogged my brake lines?? Going to disconnect and blow them out and see if that helps.I do get air bubbles but it seems to not stop and change over to all fluid. I even disconnected the brake line from the slave and pumped the pedal, expecting a steady flow of fluid but it just dribbled,