hey everyone. For all of us in the north east I hope you’re staying warm. So I repacked 4 hydraulic cylinders. That was fun and not too hard to do. Now I got some questions. Does the 188 use glow plugs? Also can anyone help me identify what I have here. The serial number plates wore off. Thanks for any and all help. Yes I bought a shop manual online for $150 but it doesn’t really have too much info.
hey guys. Could use some help. I have a g188d. I have no clue what year my construction king is though. I bought a manual on eBay. Can anyone help and let me know if there is glow plugs. My ignition has a slot when you turn it all the way to the left that says heater.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums. Cross posting similar content in two different forums can cause confusion. Since both your threads here had similar questions, but the same title, I've merged them together. My bet on the glowplugs would be no, but it's been a long time since I've been on one of those old Cases. There's lots of knowledge here. I'm sure somebody will be able to give you a definitive answer.
Sorry for that digger242j. I appreciate you merging them. I need all the help I can get doing this as a tribute to my pop. It was his and it was time to redo it in his memory.
No problem. It looks like it has lots of potential. Best of luck with it, and I'm sure you'll do your pop proud.
Oh yeah runs great. I’m just confused. I thought diesels have to use glow plugs to run. You can obviously tell I don’t know much.
Welcome to HEF Festeraxp ! The online parts book is your friend. ----> https://partstore.casece.com/us/par...7a52957&sl=EN¤cy=#epc::mr65627ag4305133
Definitely no glow plugs on a G188. It may possibly have an aftermarket ign switch fitted to it. The machine serial number ID plate should be on the chassis, near /under the mounting step ...... from memory.....
X2...…..no glow plugs on the 188 or 207.
What all are you trying to repair? Is the engine hard to start? …….or not running well?
Some were fitted with an intake heater element, hence the heater position on the switch. Many were burned out from leaving the switch in the heater position too long. Your service manual will outline the location of the tags on the tractor, loader and hoe to help narrow down the year of your machine. Helpful to have an operators manual also, many reproduced copies available on Ebay.
Yes I purchased the maual on ebay. But it shows some stuff but no numbers. it runs great, I just want to rewire it, I also noticed some things on the bottom of the block which to me, I would think is a block heater. I am going to rewire the whole machine. I am just trying to identify the year, that's why I posted the serial tag from the motor. I replaced the alternator, radiator, fan, repacked the front four hydraulic cylinders, so I'm rocking and rolling. it just boggles my mind that there are no glow plugs. I don't even know what all the switches do. I'm also going to be looking for tires for the back and from. I have my son and I doing this, but this is not my fortay. I just want to have it ready by the spring so last night I moved it into the garage so I can more easily work on it. I'm sure those two spots on the sides of the block with one wire running to them must have been the block heaters.
i looked for all the tags and two are missing the one on the right hand side by the steering column with the serial number. the one directly down from the steering wheel where the shifter is, is unreadable.
No glows plugs on those, the block heater would be on the left side of motor under the fuel filters and above the oil pressure light sender. The block heater was powered by 120vac, the intake heater was an element mounted into a boss in the center of the intake to warm the incoming air for cold climate start.
Yeah no tags anywhere.
They are gone. I believe the left hand side does have a heater but there is also the same looking plug on the opposite side.
Where does everyone get their gauges from?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Tract...h=item3d2d1513d0:g:XqAAAOSwJbpbipcp:rk:1:pf:0
Guys need some help identifying. First two pics came from left side of motor right next to fuel filter. The other one is connected to the selonoid and goes into what I believe is the intake manifold and the last one which seems to be stuck is right below the intake manifold next to the starter. Any help is appreciated.
1st photo top left is the oil pressure sending unit. Bottom photo appears to be the tachometer drive. Hard to tell because it is so dirty. Clean it up and repost it please. Bottom rh side is a photo of the air heater, removed from the intake manifold. You need the operators manual to learn how to use it and all the other functions of your machine.
Yup I figured some of them out but thanks for the reply. Now to get the tachometer out of the block. You mean a manual like this?
So I need to make or buy something like this?
No, not the manual in the photo. That clearly says it is a series B manual. You need to make a puller to get that tach drive out of the block. Does the core of it rotate when the engine is running ? It is not worth the trouble to remove it if you don't replace it with a new or used one. They are VERY pricey to buy new.
So I have the wrong manual. F me. I believe the end spins in the engine. It was broken and looked like it was a threaded cable on the inside.
Okay I just ordered the gauges and Case 580 CK Tractor Loader Backhoe Service Repair Overhaul Manual The tachometer cable is 48” long. I’ll include a pic.
Any suggestions?
Hi Fester Welcome to a great resource for your machine. the 2693xxxx is your engine serial number. The tractor should have a similar tag on the housing to the right of the steering wheel that starts with an 8. I think you have a 1971 580CK. The pics you posted look the same as mine which is also a 1971. That manual you showed is for the 580B CK which will cover some info but not all. The 580b started in late 1971 and there are definitely differences to the 580ck. The tachometer is driven by a square cable in a sheath that connects to the drive mounted on the right side of the engine. The tach cable does look broken. Does the piece still at the engine spin when the engine is running? If so that part of the cable should pull straight out of the drive. The inner core (square cable) is a replaceable part #A24523. If it doesn’t spin then the gear on the end of the drive is toast and you will need a puller to remove that drive. (PM me and we can figure that out).
I never checked if it spun but I did pull it straight out so I do have the end. I pulled it right out with some channel locks.
where is the replaceable part at case? when I got the backhoe I noticed that that cable was broken by the end. Like I said I pulled the end part out last night with channel locks so I'm assuming that it is okay since I was able to pull it out. You got a suggestion for me on where to get the replacement cable from? Thanks a lot for your help too.
Actually after I looked at your pics again you will need the whole cable which is part #A38817. That comes with the inside core. It is #21 in attached diagram. I missed that the flared end which screws into drive is broken on the cable. You may be able to see the drive spinning without that little end sticking out. it’s worth knowing if the drive (#23) is still good. If you are doing much repair work you will need a good parts book as well as the service manuals. The parts ‘fiche’ is also available by getting the ‘MY Yard’ app from Case. Just search CASE CE where ever you get apps. A lot of times dis & re-assembly will go much easier when you can look at the parts book. 45+ yo tractor may not always have been put back together the way it was built. Don’t assume the way it comes apart is correct. That has bit me more than once.
you are a life saver, im wondering if I can just order the tachometer cable from ebay and then just the one part from case. I'm also going to assume that I will have to remove the piece from the block right?
No need to remove tach drive IF it spins. Put the broken end back in and start it up to check.
I will today, when I tried to push it back in last night it seemed hard to get back in. Maybe it is busted. ill reconnect the amp gauge today to the alternator so that I can start it and see if it runs. im at work right now.
if not I was thinking get a bolt and then get a piece of steel tubing cut it and put a washer and bolt on the top and try to pop it off.
You can search ebay, but I would be surprised if you can find the correct one. CNH dealers can get the complete cable or the inner flexable core for it. The drive assembly has a fibre gear on them that quite commonly wear out. for a new one at a dealership. The Case online parts book is here ---> https://partstore.casece.com/us/par...5f9f8b3&sl=EN¤cy=#epc::mr65627ag4305133 They typically are around $150.00 or more. Item #22
Don't start the engine until you remove the drive. It will surely destroy the drive gear. To make a puller you can drill the center out of an SAE threaded bolt to allow it to go over the drive stem.
that center piece is the one I pulled out already. so its just a small hole where the end of that drive used to be.
so all I really have to do is screw a bolt into that housing hole and then try to pull it out?
You are OK. That was probably the broken off end of the cable core you pulled out. Yes. I posted a drawing of the puller I made a few years ago. I will look in my shop for the puller. If I can find it I will post a photo of it. Don't if I want to go down there today it was -1 degree outside a few minutes ago.
Thanks to both of you, im glad I moved it into the garage the high here Wednesday is going to be 3 and the low -5 with wind chills as low as -45. there was no way I was going to work on that machine outside.
I had to do a some snow removal and that required me to go to the shop to get the 680 where it is parked. Afterwards I did find the tach drive puller. Here are some photos of it. I use short pieces of threaded rod for the jack bolts. Also,here is an ebay link to what I think is the correct manual for your machine. ---> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Backh...=item214a22f786:g:9CEAAOSw4A5YqCA2:rk:11:pf:0
Thank you very very much. I’ll get started on that today.