I have an old 580CK diesel that got some water in it and rusted some valves. Head going back on but I am having trouble. What sealant do I use on that gasket that is squished between front of head and timing cover on the 188D when installing the head? Any tricks for this nightmare? I was going to take the timing cover off or loosen it but the crank pulley wouldn't even come off. This design is crazy. Newer ones made the timing cover in two pieces which I assume was to address this issue. I put high tack on the first gasket which is sticky and the gasket squished right out so I had to cut a new gasket. Manual just says install gasket with sealant and put head on, a big help. There is coolant going through this gasket. Also, looking at getting something in better shape. Located a 580B diesel, basically the same unit but everyone seems to recommend the C or later. I can actually haul the B on my gooseneck and it looks in good shape. Is a B any better than the CK? I have all manual shift, reverser.
A B and a Ck are incredibly similar. The differences are mainly the addition of ROPS, and the higher seating position. The issues with the B are all pretty well documented. I just picked up a B with the 4 speed and power shuttle. It needs a shuttle repair so I got it cheap. Ask me in 6 months if it was a good upgrade or not.
What are you using for gasket material ? It should not "squish" out. I use a thin coat of black RTV and let it cure for a while before torquing them. Both the 580C and 580B could purchased with either a cab or open ROPS.
This is the gasket behind the water pump. Timing cover to head. There is no room for it to slide in. I tried a thinner gasket with RTV and no way, no how. Do I need to take the head studs out and then slide it onto the dowel pins for the last 1/2" or do I need to remove the timing cover? It looks like the engine has to come out to remove the timing cover? There is no space between the head and the cover for this gasket to simply slide in there like the manual states. I am missing something.
Your'e making it too hard. Loosen all the timing cover bolts/nuts. Then, wedge (GENTLY) something between the cover and block to give a little space. If I remember from when I did mine there might be a couple places to tap a screwdriver in between the block and the cover that is NOT between the gasket surfaces. Then black permatex in between the head and cover.
Yes, was thinking the same thing but was worried I might cause an oil leak. There are some places to do this right under the gasket so thanks. I think if TC gasket tears at top only there should be no issue. Why this advice is not in the manual is beyond me. Looking at a nice B now as I can not locate a decent C or newer that is in my cheapo Scandinavian blood. My dad's old CK has been great but I have fixed a lot of slop in most pins/bushings, rebuilt most cylinders, even re-sealed the control valve. These were well made even though they were pieced together. Thanks again. Now if I can get the new tracks on my old Dresser TD8E, another nightmare, things will be good. By the time I am too old to do this anymore I will realize that paying up front is the way to go.
Were you ever able to get a good seal on that gasket? I just completed an in frame overhaul and have antifreeze leaking from between the head and the timing cover housing. Would greatly appreciate any tips or tricks, hoping I don't have to pull the head off and try it again.