I've got a 1967 Case 580 CK that is pretty well used. I'm changing the oil in the drive line and need some basic answers. I've got a service manual for it but can't find what I need. There are 3 oil fill holes on the drive line. One in the very back over the differential. Does it want 90W gear oil in that? One other hole is a few inches in front of the shift lever. Does that take Case TCH oil? And one half way between the shifter and the bell housing. That may be the shuttle and I think takes TCH also. I'm I right in guessing the two top front fills go into the same space? Does anyone know what the capacities are? There is a dip stick on the differential so thats easy, but none on the other fills. What I really need is an operators and maintenance manual to get answers to my basic questions. I'm still looking for the filter for the shuttle oil. Thanks, Ruff
580CK fluids and Filters Chart Here are the fluid and filter charts for a 580CK
I use a Napa 1518 for the shuttle filter located in front of the radiator. I'm assuming you have a torque converter drive, not direct drive. The rear plug/dipstick on the differential cover is the transmission/ diff oil fill. I use #80-90 gear oil, I believe EP is the correct designation, as seen on the chart, for hypoid gears, correct me if I got that wrong. #90-140 is very thick below freezing temperatures. The plug on the right rear corner of the shuttle cover, a few inches in front of the gear shift, should have a dipstick attached to it. This is the fill point for the torque/shuttle compartment. I don't recall any fill plug farther forward on the 580CK torque tube, unless you are referring to a plug just behind the starter, for timing checks. A picture would help us. I remember using a 20 liter pail if the torque converter was dry, or about 15 liters otherwise. I don't believe there is a drain plug on the torque converter of a CK or a B. There are 2 drain points for the shuttle/ torque housing. I might have a CK operators manual, I will have to check. Phil
Thanks for the help gg and Phil. Here are a couple of pictures. One of my problems is I'm new to larger machines, (this is larger than my Ford 8N). So I'm not sure if I have a torque converter, or power shuttle. There is no external filter for the shuttle oil I see. None in front of the radiator, or one post I saw said in the steering tower. There are no lines coming out of the torque tube to route oil anywhere. Could it be under the shuttle cover? Another problem with a tractor this old is that it has had many owners, and a great amount of changes have been made to it over the years. There are not many parts that have not been welded, broken, altered, jury rigged, removed, worn out, or monkeyed with. My apologies to the monkeys. The pictures are dark but the unknown fill hole is right between the hydraulic lines and the rats nest of wires in the first picture. I don't think it's a view port because it's too far from the fly wheel. I'd like to know if it has a shuttle filter because when I drained the oil there was a lot of water and sludge that came out. Should I run some diesel fuel through it to flush it out? The second picture is to show the controls it has and maybe help in knowing what features this tractor has. Thanks for your help. It is greatly appreciated. Ruff
It looks like the mechanical shuttle; your engine will stall if overloaded. I believe the lube chart posted would be correct for both shuttles. Thanks gggraham for posting that. Cheap hydraulic oil makes a good flushing oil. I don't use diesel fuel for fear of it loosening any debris that has settled and is stuck to the bottom of the compartment. It looks like the mechanical shuttle has it's own compartment for oil too, but I will still check that operators manual if I can find it. I had a direct drive CK once, very efficient machine. Here are pictures off CNH, of both shuttle cover types. Phil
Is there such a thing as cheap hydraulic oil? I have to chuckle as I've read other posts and seen pictures of other tractors. Most of them are painted nicely and are neat and tidy. I'm not kidding as you can tell from my pictures that there are not a lot of areas on my tractor that have not been altered some how. I'm surprised no one has razzed me about my custom steering wheel. Thanks alot Phil for your free giving of knowledge and experience. You'll never know how many people read old posts and get needed answers from you. But know it is greatly appreciated.
Wal-mart has the cheapest hydraulic oil here at $39.99 Can. a 20 liter pail, the TDH oil is the same price, as is the motor oil. I think it was $29.99 last year for hydraulic oil. It'd hard to find a used Case steering wheel in good shape, sometimes harder to pull it off. I see the B model wheel(A65544) is $119 U.S. Phil
1970 580ck The Case dealer in my area has not been helpful at all. Can someone tell me where to fill the hydraulic system? There are what appears to be 2 fill plugs on the top of the bucket arms. Case dealer told me there should be a dipstick but there is none. There is what looks like a drain plug on the side of the bucket arm. Do I open that and fill from the top and when fluid comes out the plug on the side it is full? Do I fill from both spots on the top of the arms? Thanks
Skidoo, What you refer to as the 'bucket arm', I call the loader frame. There is a left and right loader frame, both with vents at the top as they are both hydraulic tanks. These two frames(tanks) are connected at the front of the machine behind the radiator grill(pump intake hose) and at the rear with a return line. The left frame has a larger vent plug, that is the fill plug. No need to fill the other tank as it is connected. The 1/4" pipe plug halfway down the frame under this fill/vent plug, is the level plug. Follow this left loader frame forward to where it bolts to the radiator 'guard' and you will find another 1/4" pipe plug. This plug is for bleeding air out of the tanks as they are refilled after draining, or if the oil level is found to be very low. It's a good idea to check both tank vents occasionally and maintain them. Most hydraulic tanks breathe just like we do and suck in lots of dirty air, so I usually update the CK and B model vents with a slightly improved one. Phil
1970 580ck Thank you. One other question? With the fluid being low, will this make the backhoe hard to start? It seems to try and start then acts like the battery is dead. I did notice that if I turn the key the second time, the ground wire on the frame gets hot. Is it acting this way because the pump is sucking too much juice trying to pump what fluid is in there through the system? Thanks for everything
fluid I filled the hydraulic level and it is still acting the same way. It will start for a second when it is cold then stalls. When I turn the key the second time, it acts like the battery is dead but it is fully charged. The ground wire on the frame is still getting hot. Is it possible the starter needs attention. Today when trying to start it, sometimes it only clicks. Thanks
I'm not familiar with your model backhoe but if your leads are getting hot, I'd be removing and cleaning the lugs and attachments. Use a bit of sandpaper or a file on the mating surfaces to guarantee a good connection. Bad connections will generate heat (or cranking the engine for 5mins at a time...LOL) You may want to have your battery checked as well, sometimes they will read 12V, but under a load will fail. Have your battery load tested if cleaning the connections doesn't help. If all that fails....then look at your starter motor.
starter I pulled the starter off and it spins fine.No hesitation at all.The clicking I assume is the external coil, not the one on the starter. I thought it was the kill switch cable because I re routed it but I pushed it all the way forward by hand and it still acting the same way. Only thing I did since the problem has arised was change a seal on the valve for the backhoe. Possible that I put 2 hydraulic lines on backwards? I had to remove some hoses to get at the cap on the bottom of the crowd to lower the spool to change the top seal. Would that cause a starting problem? I am baffled. Thanks
Try to disconnect the main hydraulic pump. The valve might be trying to drive a cylinder. and the overload is not releasing. The engine may not start with a load on it.
Skidoo, Not sure if your engine is actually starting, then quitting, or almost starting , then failing to turn over fast enough. If your ground lead is getting hot, replace it. Make sure your new lead goes right to one of the 3 starter bolts. The click should be the starter solenoid, unless someone has added another separate relay. There is a separate relay on this engine above the starter but that is for the manifold heater and operated by a separate switch, only when needed. On the solenoid, short the large and small terminals together. Both have leads going to them. Make sure the machine is not in gear. If it still clicks, then it's probably not your ignition switch or safety switch, or associated wiring. If the main leads and battery are good, then it's your starter solenoid, or starter. These solenoids are more known for problems as the flood of chinma parts comes in. If in doubt about the work you did on the hoe, the two main hoses going to the backhoe attachment can be disconnected with the quick couplers and connected together, bypassing the hoe. Phil
clicking The clicking was there before the starting issue. I am more concerned as to why it is not starting. I had the starter off and it does not click when I powered it with a car booster. It spins and activates properly. There is no ground wire from the starter to the battery, only a ground from the battery to the frame. I am going to fix that issue. When I say it tries to start, I mean it will start for a brief moment when first trying it, having let it cool down overnight. Then it dies immediately and if I try to start it again, it is like the battery loses power after a few cranks and the ground wire on the frame gets hot.
Are you certain you have no ground cable going to engine? Without one, the ground has to travel through linkages, driveshaft, whatever it can find. Having a ground cable going to frame is fine, but you have to have a ground cable going from that frame ground terminal to the starter motor or your going to have problems. Does the machine drive the hyd pump off front of crankshaft? If so, simply disconnect the drive coupling temporarily that drives the pump and see if motor cranks and starts.
Might be easiest to take out the 4- 7/16" bolts holding the pump drive on the crankshaft pulley, if you decide to disconnect the pump. Phil
Yeah, that's the part Phil, thanks. Take those bolts and rubber isolaters out and see if the engine cranks and runs.
starting problem solved This is my first backhoe and I am by no means a mechanic. With the help from the guys here I figured it out. The quick connect on the outlet hose coming form the backhoe valve came off. This must of happened when I changed the seal. My next project is fixing the clicking noise when trying to start it. There is a solenoid on the starter which seems fine then there is the relay on the motor above the starter. Phil, I believe, mentioned it is for the manifold heater?There are no wires on the manifolds. Well the guy I got the backhoe from has the positive from the starter going to both sides of the relay, 2 wires from the positive on the starter. Then the ground is going to the relay. I am going to attach a ground wire on the starter directly to the battery. I believe the relay is working like they do on older Ford trucks. Thanks for all the help and I will update when the "clicking" noise is resolved.
I got up at 4:30 this morning and started thinking about it. ATCOEQUIP would even agree it's pretty early even for me . "The quick connect on the outlet hose coming from the backhoe valve came off." That would do it, better than the collapsed pressure hose idea I was considering. I was even thinking maybe it's really a gas engine here, even though you mentioned a shut-off cable, and have one of the 2 coil power leads defective. The relay above the starter as I mentioned before, is only for the manifold heater. It should have one heavy lead, maybe a #6 wire, from the starter positive terminal to one of the relay's large terminals. The other large terminal on the relay is connected with the same gauge of wire to the heater. The relay needs to grounded, by bolting it to the engine block as Case does with 2- 1/4" bolts. There is a spot for it. The only other lead needed is a #14 wire powered from the push button switch, located near the starter switch, to activate it. It appears some of your existing wiring is incorrect. The clicking may be this relay somehow activated by the 'start' terminal on the starter switch. This is not desirable, and if used, the heater should only be on before cranking. These heaters are quite robust and usually still in working condition. I believe 1 minute is the maximum time you should have this on before attempting to start. I find that 30 seconds is just right and allows starting(without ether of course), to a lower temperature. I have never had a 188 diesel start at a temperature lower than about 32 deg F , unless plugged in or using ether. The manifold heater allows easier starting down to this temperature. Phil
Dang Phil, 4:30! Did ya go outside and kick the chickens awake? That's a pretty good description of the glow plugs operation.
manual I appreciate the help, any chance I can get a copy of the service manual for my backh oe. I think it would be easier if I had a copy in front of me. It looks like I am going to have to rewire the whole thing as there are a lot of components that are not connected. The hours gauge, oil pressure light, temp. gauge, amp meter are all not connected. I am willing to buy a manual but have not found one that is inexpensive. Thanks
Smokey1, I forgot to 'give credit where credit is due'. You got us all thinking about the hydraulic pump, in your post. I think ATCOEQUIP knew where the problem was too. ATCOEQUIP, no chickens here, gets expensive to feed them over winter, but if I was living in the beautiful state of Tennessee, I'd have to get some to wake me ."That's a pretty good description of the glow plugs operation". Dang your southern hospitality. Of all the places I've travelled, the middle U.S. remains my favourite. Skidoo, There's nothing like having the hard copy service manual. I paid $45 new for mine in 1979. I believe it shows individual wires and I will try and post a better schematic than CNH shows before I go on holidays shortly . The hour meter probably requires a new cable, quite common. These are reasonable from Case. Check that your camshaft is rotating the cable drive gear with engine running and the hour meter works when you spin the hub that the cable drives.You are fortunate that the 580CK has such an easy dash to work on. I believe the temperature gauge requires 12 volts on one side (with ignition switch on) and the temp sensor giving a varying resistance load, on the other side. Same with oil pressure light except that the oil pressure sensor is either 'on or off' and grounds the bulb to make it work. Phil
wiring Any chance of getting the part names on the diagram you posted? Thanks.
Skidoo, You can go on CNH and view the part numbers and descriptions under the drawings. Will PM you. Phil
thanks That is a big help, now to find out the serial number of my backhoe? I am currently taking the solenoid apart as the casing was cracked and it is all rusted inside. That is where my problem was(clicking noise) The relay for the manifold was also clicking so I am replacing that one with one off a f-150 truck, same idea. I hope to be able how to get the manifold heater working as I plan on using the backhoe during the winter. The block heater works but want to ensure it will start in cold weather. The wiring on this machine is a mess but am sure I will get it all figured out. BTW, found the gear on the block for the hour meter. I will need to find a cable for that. Thanks everyone for all the help.
Skidoo, Serial # locations are shown on CNH too, page 002 for your machine. I've never had much luck with taking solenoids apart and cleaning them unless on larger units, despite their simplicity. These are cheap to buy at a starter rebuilder. If you have a torque converter drive on your machine, you will have a gasket on your starter to seal against the torque tube. The stock block heater is 400W, I think, and very slow. Figure on 3-4 hours as a minimum, to have it plugged in, and the machine must be out of the wind. A heater hose type heater works very well if plumbed in properly. A propane wand placed under the oil pan is good to have for emergency use. I wouldn't count on your manifold heater, it's just a spring and fall aid. You need to get the coolant warm. Phil
temp gauge We connected a mechanical temp gauge to what looks like a bypass hose coming from the top of the rad to a waterjacket. The gauge did not move up in temp. Wondering how long the backhoe would have to be running for the temp to rise. The engine block does not even seem to be getting hot. There was a mechanical gauge in the dash prior but the hose was not there. Thanks
oil flowing from dipstick Well I finally put the old girl to work and encountered a problem. The temperature never went up on the gauge but the rad is now empty and the oil dipstick shows it is way past full. With the engine running, the oil gushes out the top of the dipstick. With a gas engine having a blown head gasket, you can smell when there is anti freeze in the oil. This does not appear to be the issue but is strange that the rad is empty and the oil pan is over full?
Skidoo, what have you gotten yourself into . Regarding your mechanical temp gauge sender, I'm not sure exactly where you plumbed it, but I think the last one I installed by removing the old electrical sender unit. It's located in the right rear corner of the cylinder head. I installed the new sender with the pipe thread adapter supplied with the kit. As your engine is warming up, the radiator should remain cold, until the thermostat opens. Thermostat failure is not uncommon and I use a Napa 33008S, 180 degree, as a replacement. You may have a defective thermostat. Regarding your last post, I would pull the drain plug on the engine oil pan and check for coolant in the bottom. Some will always separate out or never get a chance to mix. There are other sources that could leak fluid into the engine, such as the fuel injection pump, power steering pump, and the torque tube, if a torque converter model. It's best to change your oil and filter. Keep a close eye on the oil level, checking often for coolant in the oil, especially before starting cold. If diesel fuel is leaking in the engine oil, the oil will start to smell. Check if the steering pump reservoir needs refilling often. If the oil level in the engine gets to high, additional turbulence is created, hence your dipstick oil leak. You probably drained some coolant out to install the sender, if so it's very easy to get an air lock in a coolant system after refilling . A heater will take time to purge itself of air sometimes and most coolant systems require monitoring after refilling unless the same amount goes back in that came out. Although it doesn't sound good, it may not be coolant that is the problem. Phil
oil How much antifreeze should I have used if it was empty as remember we put a new rad in.
oil Power steering fluid level did not change, only the rad fluid level changed. The temp gauge was installed on the right hand side, right next to what I think is the heater shut off valve. Like I said earlier, the temp gauge never did move up when running the backhoe.
temp gauge location Here is where we installed the temp gauge.
oil Well I drained the oil pan and it is safe to say that it is full of antifreeze. Other than a blown head gasket, is there anything else that can cause this? I have never worked on a diesel engine but am willing to tackle the blown head gasket. Any help finding a service manual as I will need detailed information on how to go about this? I have seen sites that offer downloadable manuals, anyone ever used these? Appreciate all the help. Thanks
Skidoo, The down loadable service manuals are okay from what I have heard. I've heard the picture quality is better in some than in others. It's the cheapest way to get the info, especially if you can't wait for a bargain on the book itself. It's hopeful you haven't damaged the engine bearings from the coolant. Several places to leak coolant, liner seals, liner pinholes, bad head gasket, cracked cylinder head, and cylinder head frost plugs. There is an oil gallery going up into the 188 cylinder head at the rear, but more likely to have oil going into the coolant than the other way. You can check for some of these leaks by pressurizing the rad with about 10 psi and looking up into the engine crankcase after removing the oil pan, also taking the valve cover off. Leaking liner seals is a common problem. I have seen other engines plumbed that way for a temperature sensor and heater line, and they did work. Check that coolant is flowing through the heater lines, and the valve is not shut. Check for an air lock when filling by loosening the temp sender. Diesels seem to warm up slow. Phil
580ck Anyone able to point me to a link to download the service manual or buy it on cd? Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/Case-580C-CK-Lo...ItemQQptZBI_Books_Manuals?hash=item2a00149493 http://cgi.ebay.com/Case-Tractor-58...ItemQQptZBI_Books_Manuals?hash=item35a289c942 are a couple on ebay, there are a few more cd versions as well. i bought a cd version for my 580e and it was ok. the larger diagrams and pictures were too low rez to read the legends, pretty much making them useless. in my experience the cd service manual is worth $1x dollars.
I have the genuine Case Service manual for my 680C . It is well worth the $100.00 that they are sold for. If the CD is just the actual service manual that someone has scanned and put on a CD I don't see how it could possibly give a detailed view of the diagrams. That is just my opinion about the CD. I also have the Genuine Case Parts book for my machine. That book is worth twice as much the service manual. Because the parts breakdown is in great detail for the arrangement of every part and unit in the machine. An example I recently had of why I place a higher value on the parts book was when I had the four speed transmission completely disassembled. Although I had photos of the gear arrangement before the disassembly , I found that one of the synchronizers can be installed backwards and still look as if it was correct. By looking at the parts book it not only had the synchronizer in the correct position but it was partially cross sectioned to show which way the heavy side of the syncro. was installed. Without that detailed view I would had a 50/50 chance of getting the the gear assembly correct.
580CK service manual here for free. Link edited out. See post #49 for the reason.
thanks I did end up getting one but that one is way more detailed. Appreciate it. I managed to get the head gasket changed and got the ole girl fired up. I did notice the first injector was not operating properly. While letting her warm up so we can retorque the head bolts, I ran out of fuel. I added some injector cleaner and put 40 litres of colored diesel. Now for some reason I can not get the injectors to bleed. It has been damn cold here and was wondering if it is possible I have ice in the fuel system somewhere? What is the correct additive to thaw out any ice that may have formed in the fuel system? Thanks
not froze I cracked the line going from the tank to the fuel filter it is running there. I cracked the line going into the fuel pump and there is diesel running there. I did notice my fuel pump has a very very slow drip but that was there before. Looks like one of the injectors bled but can't get the others to? Any help? Thanks
This post was reported to the staff as a possible violation of our HEF Forum Rule, "No posts, or posting of links, suggesting or encouraging any illegal activity will be permitted", since it would constitute a copyright violation. Since the link tells me that that is so, and redirects me to a place where I can conveniently spend my money on movies, I guess the problem has taken care of itself. Rapid movies doesn't need HEF's help in finding customers...
I just got a 67 580 CK and was wondering about the fluids. Thanks for the help.
does anyone know what #27 part is called? thats my problem why it wont go into 1st or 2nd gear.
I just purchased my first backhoe yesterday. Its a 1969 580CK. I believe it's a direct drive mechanical shuttle shift. Does that mean I can use standard hydro fluid(AW-32) instead of Trans-Hydro fluid for the loader and backhoe?
Welcome to the forum . The hydraulic oil reservoir in the frame(s) uses common hydraulic oil. The direct drive shuttle compartment uses different oil than the transmission/differential, I think. I believe your local Case dealer can tell you for sure or someone here might know. My 580BCK operators manual only shows TCH oil for the power shuttle but does not clearly show what's used in the mechanical shuttle compartment. Phil
Well, I just pulled off an "oh SHOOT!" with my old 580. I bought some univeral hydralic oil from Tractor supply. Poured it in and my hydralics are acting not so good. I took a second look at the pail and in small print says it's a 10w-30 hydalic fluid. YIKES! I'm guessing that I will be draining the stuff out, right? Did I do any damage to the hydralic system? I also would like to know if the same fluid goes into both of the ports you talked about on the machine between the seat and the dash. It's been one of THOSE days. I lost my operator's manual and am lost without it.
I tried this link and was redirected to some porn site, FYI. Ooops!
On the photo below, can someone tell me which one takes the 90w gear oil and which takes the Case TCH oil? Thanks. I'm assuming the green circled one is the transaxle? Sorry, when God asked me if I wanted smarts or good looks, choose poorly.
Hi Tee Wrecks, here is a link to the real service manual. http://files.minnpar.com/partbooks/...MANUAL/Case 580CK Series C Service Manual.pdf
Hi I just purchased I believe to be a 1970 case 580ck with Model 33 backhoe I just replaced the seals and packing on the left and tilt cylinder on the right side now when trying to lift the bucket loader it's like it is stepping up a ladder in stages can anyone help me out
you probably just need to cycle it a few times to get the air out. Air acts like a cushion and the pressure builds up slowly, then the rod moves and waits for the pressure to build up again.
Thank you I will give it a try
I have a question for Phil if he's still on the forum. I have a 1969 580ck with manual gearbox, is it correct to put tch fluid in the torque tube on mine? I drained it and refilled through tho plug in the dual range cover and have noticed fluid is now running out where the clutch rod goes into the case behind the bellhoubell .
Phil hasn't been around for quite some time. It is correct to use TCH in both the manual and power shuttles. I have the manual shuttle that has a dry clutch but both use a 4 speed gear box. If yours has the dual range then I think you have the manual shuttle also. Gulf breeze - Is that over near Floribama?
Yes sir, about an hour east . And ok just wanted to be sure. I filled the rear diff/trans with 85-140 Ep gl5 and I filled the torque tube/ dual range with travellers premium Tran/hydraulic fluid. The refill capacity I found was 17qts but that musta been way to much as it leaked out around the clutch rod until I pumped about a gallon back out.
Also anyone have any input on the hydraulic leveling ram on the loader? Mine leaks like a siv, someone looks to have welded the end of the rod in a fairly ugly manner, they also have gouged the gland nut so badly it won't hold a wiper or seals. Was wondering if it's actually needed? Has seen many loaders without it, if it needs to stay they and ideas on a new gland nut??
And it's looking like I shouldn't use the travellers fluid in my hydraulics???? Is there any alternative or is it ok??? Trying to go through this thing tip to tail before hauling it an hour to my property and putting her to work cleaning a 2 acre home site
You can use the TSC brand but you need the regular hydraulic oil - not the stuff for wet brakes. I think it's the 46 but I'm not positive. Is there a dipstick attached to your fill plug? You can probably pick up a used gland nut from a junkyard. I'd keep the leveler.
oh okay I was curious because I called the local case dealer and they didn't even know what to tell me they said to use hytrans and everything except the gearbox. the stuff I got to Tractor Supply I believe it's there premium transmission hydraulic oil stuff The Jug says it meets the requirements of hytrans
Is it red? Like transmission fluid for a car?
Nope, clear
clear like water or clear like engine oil?
I'll check it was a bit dark but I'd say it probably had a yellow hue like engine oil
If you read the description, you'll see it has the additives for wet brakes. I think you can use their regular hydraulic oil iso 46. I've used 90 weight in my mine before I knew that it was designed for regular hydraulic oil. The regular hydraulic oil actually costs a little more than the "premium".
Ahh ok. So I'm guessing the hytrans ultra doesn't have those wet brake additives then?
As long as it's ok to leave this in the torque tube, I'll return the other 15 gals and get the 46
Actually, I think the Hytrans does have the same additive package and is used in machines newer than yours with wet brakes. I'm not sure about using that in your shuttle but like I said, I've used 90 wt. with no problems so anything slippery will probably work but I'm pretty sure it called for Case TCH from the factory.
Your right, it did call for Case TCH from the factory . I thought hytrans replaced it. Maybe I'll swap the torque tube to 90w then . As far as the hydraulic oil you recommend the 46? What about the 303 fluid? It's a shame I already bought all this TSC premium stuff,
I think - but I'm not positive - that it's OK to use oil with the wet brake additive for this purpose - except that the viscosity may be different. Using regular hydraulic oil for wet brakes/clutches can definitely be a problem.
I meant in the hydraulic system, loader, back hoe.
It's a shame there are so many answers to these questions. I've seen people say it takes dex3, the fluid I bought from TSC, hytrans only, 303, aw 32. I've read the factory hydraulic oil viscosity was 10w it read 30w. And the service manual is of absolutely no help at all.
I wouldn't swap it to 90wt. just because I did it. I had no owners manual and there was no internet back in those days and a gear box took 90 wt. in my experience. I was wrong. Must have been the first time. ; ) I'd use the 46 in the hydraulic system - and in the Hi/low next time you change it. It is confusing. As they change things over the years and fluids evolve, they try to make fewer fluids that cover all the bases - even the old "obsolete" models like ours.
Maybe I was saying it wrong, I poured the TSC fluid into the Hi/low shift cover. I have 85-140 in the differential and gearbox. And I think I will return what I got and get 46 for the hydraulic system.
The stuff that came out of the torque tube/hi-low (looks like it's compartment) was thin like hydraulic/atf oil. Stank and was really rust colored. Hopefully the TCH premium will be fine in there for a while. I plan on changing everything again after the first hard use
The traveler trans hydraulic will be fine for the hydraulic system. If Case specified a trans hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic system it was out of convenience. 46 or 32 AW hydraulic fluid would be fine too. 303 is a bargain fluid not fit for anything more advanced than a JD or Farmall A or B, or an 8N Ford. The hydraulic fluid doesn't need to be changed again for many hours, unless you have water in it, then changing half of it still won't help, you'll need to get more serious to get the water out.
It has water but I am resealing every ram and replacing most hoses, should get about 90% of the old fluid out. Figured change it again along with the diff/gearbox and torque tube again after 20 hard hours or so wouldn't hirt
Do what you want but like Delmer said, really no need to change it again so soon. Don't worry, you're going to have plenty of things to work on once you start using it. The weak link in these old CKs is the differential. Don't use it for a bulldozer. It will push brush and loose dirt but don't treat it like a D9 or you'll be sorry.
I have read that, for the most part I will be digging small stumps and pushing brush around do some back dragging n such. Hopefully it can handle it. I really do appreciate all the help and advice from y'all.
If you have the time and inclination, You might want to pull the cover under the seat and check the ring and pinion condition. You could check the backlash or have someone do it. Look for any chipped teeth, etc. it would be easier without all that 90 wt. and then you can see what kind of little pieces are in the nooks and crannies that don't drain out. There are a couple 580CK rebuild threads on here that are pretty comprehensive and entertaining as well
I may just do that, can't hurt. I've been a marine mechanic for the past 10 years, auto, truck and stuff before that. It shouldn't be anything I can't handle.
I purchased a service manual that has all the info expect what fluids the systems required .
You could take your damaged gland and a new wiper seal to a machine shop. It can be repaired. The Travelers Premium you bought is a 10w-30 viscosity oil. It should be ok for you to use. Do not use 303 hydraulic oil. It does not have the anti-wear additives that the AW class oils have.
Ok thanks man, also I took the nut to every machine shop in my area, none could repair it, one shop said they could machine a new one for $235.00 seemed a bit steep.
It must be very nasty damage to the gland. I think you will find out $235.00 is a reasonable price for a new gland. If it were me that shop would be cutting a new one now !
Yup whom ever welded the rod took a grinder to the gland to clearance the ****** well job.
Looks like I can get the whole cylinder after market from a local hydraulic shop for 335$. Can of yellow paint and good to go.
Thanks man, my differential and manual gearbox share fluid, I used 85-140 EP gl5. I'm guessing the shuttle is the torque tube and hi/lo range cover? It took about 2.5-3 gallons, I used the tch equivalent fluid in there
You'll be fine with those fluids. Earlier I referred to my manual shuttle as a "gear box" because if you pull the cover off it looks like a box of gears. I didn't mean to confuse it with the transmission "gear box". Sorry if that wasn't clear. Tinkerer, what's up with the brake master cylinders? CK's don't have them - mine anyway. My C does.
Huh ????
- on the fluids and lubricants chart you posted.
I think they call the power shuttle the torque tube because the torque converter is in there too. The manual shuttle has the hi/low range shifter along with a standard dry clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel set up. The fluid chart that Tinkerer posted says the manual shuttle only holds 2 quarts so you may want to check yours. I thought the fill plug has a dipstick welded to it. It's been so long since I changed mine, I can't remember. I guess it must be due.
I have a 1969 case shuttle shift backhoe, I have changed all the filters. When you 1st start it up and start using it runs fantastic in forward and reverse, the longer you operate it it doesn't want to move forward but will in reverse. Shut it down and let cool down a little bit and will work like a charm until it gets warm then it will not move forward. Any suggestions?? Thank you
Mine was doing the same thing after it warmed up not sure what to do I just drained and flushed out the shuttle I believe and it had red fluid in it not sure if I can put this 85-405 tractor hydraulic $ transmission fluid in to be in replacement
Welcome to HEF, alaska_chris ! That oil will be ok, if you are ok with a 10W20 weight oil in Alaska.