Trying to work out how I`m supposed to access the 4 coupler bolts on my Case580K to fit a new fan belt. I have read previous postings and realize it`s no easy task. It appears to me that most of the front has got to come off to effect this repair or am I not seeing the obvious. Access is very very restricted and how you are supposed to torque them back up when bolting up totally eludes me.
Sometimes things can look worse than what they really are. The 4 bolts can easily be removed with a standard offset ring spanner (5/8" or 16mm). Everything, the radiator & shroud can all remain in place. Removing the belt tensioner (if still fitted) may give you better line of sight. What you need to purchase to make the job easier is a cummins engine cranking tool. It fits into the bellhousing & gives you the ability to turn the engine with a ratchet - but it also can be used to lock the engine in place while you loosen/tighten the coupling bolts. You only need to slide the coupling back 5-10mm - enough space to slip the new belt in. **TIP 1 - give the pump shaft a good soaking of penetrating oil before you start the removal process, as the couplings are often, but not always, seized to the pump shaft. Once the bolts are removed, a long piece of steel can be used as a punch to tap the coupling to loosen it. Keep rotating the shaft & tapping opposite sides of the coupling to loosen it. **TIP 2 - You can use a prybar to help move the coupling away from the crankshaft pulley - BUT DO NOT lever against the pulley - it will bend. Prise between the coupling & the adapter. Sometimes the more you force the coupling, it wont slide - but if you jiggle the bar between the coupling & adapter, it magically will move. **TIP 3 - Keep a box of Band Aids handy, you may need them
Alrman is right about the procedure especially about bandaids. I’ve had to use pry bar and big hammer to get pulley to move before. Or coupler I should say.
Thanks Airman. Very helpful especially as a confidence giver.
Well I got the 4 bolts out without too much trouble. Thought this isn`t too bad. BIG MISTAKE I`ve soaked in penetrating oil and hammered and levered and cursed all to no avail. Managed to get the coupler to move a fraction (got screw drivers wedged in a few times) but failed to get the coupler to move enough to get the belt in. In fact now got a leak from the back of the pump. Suspect I`ve damaged the shaft seal. As someone else comment on a separate topic what a poor design. Due to its use and location it`s obvious that the splines are going to suffer. Will just have to dismantle it all!!!!!
Bummer! You can remove the pump by simply dropping the counterweight & leaving the bonnet & coolers in place. Are you in a workshop? Have access to lifting gear? I was nearly going to say in the earlier post, that in extremely stuck coupling situations, you need to loosen the 4 pump mounting bolts To get enough clearance to install the belt. If never seen a pump begin to leak by trying to loosen a coupling before......I guess it's possible if the seal & pump shaft bearings are not in the best condition. Would have started leaking soon anyways...... Are you sure about the leak? Shame to pull the pump to find it was penetrating oil dripping on the ground.
Hi Airman. Dropping the weight is where I`ll start next. What`s the question about lifting gear? Is that in relation to the counter weight? I`ve a fair amount of gear. It`s definitely hydraulic oil and was as clean as a whistle prior. Will just have to wait and see.
The counterweight is heavy & an unusual shape. Before the days when I had a crane on my service truck, when working on site & on dirt, I would rattle the 4 counterweight bolts off & let the weight fall to the ground. If your on a concrete slab in a workshop.... well ...... using a overhead/floor crane is a better option.......... **TIP - Might be a good idea to replace the front engine mounts while your there.
Right Mmmm!!!! So yes on concrete but not in my workshop. Will try and use my engine hoist -two ton so that might help. Your advice is invaluable. Thank you.
Your a winner Airman. Job done.One thing I did find helped was that using a length of twine round the belt allowed the belt to be pulled through the gap from underneath the machine. Due to width and length of belt not easy to get through the gap even though loosening the pump bolts did give better access. Thanks again.
Glad you got it sorted. You can shout me a beer next time I'm in England