OK, I think I have figured out some of my machines electrical issues. It appears that whoever owned it before me (or likely the person before that) felt that the machine had a short, and was drawing the battery down, so they clipped off all the wires from the harness to the fuseblock. the owner before me replaced the alternator, and I replaced the batteries, now the charging system is running perfect. Downside, all the electrical devices were left without power after the hackjob. Upside, I got the machine for a good price, so I am not complaining! I soldered a feeder wire to the top of a fuse, and fed power into the circuit, and the circuit works. One by one, I applied power into the fuseblock directly, and all the circuits work. So... I think what I am going to do is install a battery disconnect switch on the console, then take the hot lead from this and route the power into the fuseblock (I think this would be easier than try to trace all the cuts that were made, and the wiring from the fuseblock to the working loads seems fine). In order to get to the wiring on the fuseblock (the red input power), it looks like I have to take the console off. I tried to wiggle it off, but the hand throttle and gauage wiring seems to be in the way. Any idea how the fuseblock is connected, and what I have to do to get the console off to get access to the fuseblock? I included a few pictures of my set-up. Thanks in advance for any input.
Thought I would include a picture of the machine, just out of interests sake.
I'm on my way to where I have a 580sk dash apart, I'll post a few pics.
Hello, first let me apologize for the shameless thread hijacking I am about to perpetrate for some reason I'm not able to start a new thread even though I did my three test posts. I've been lurking here for a while learning as much as I can about the various models of backhoe's as I will buying one soon for homeowner use. So far I am thinking I will end up with a Case 580 or JD 310. I will be looking at a 99 580L tomorrow and have seen reference made to performing engine stall, hydraulic stall and combined stall tests prior to purchasing a hoe. How exactly would I conduct those tests, are they model specific? Any help would be great
What I've learned about buying a used hoe so far thanks to this site. -Look at overall conditon of TLB (properly greased pins, loader and hoe buckets not abused/weld repaired) -Make sure exhaust is not excessively smokey -Visually check cylinders for leaks -Shake loader and hoe to check for slop -machine should be able to lift and hold itself at idle to verify hydraulic pump strength -after warming up to operation temp verify TLB will spin tires against a pile (I assume in first gear) -finally the stall tests mentioned above which I'm unsure of how to complete. If anyone can think of anything I am missing please feel free to add, I was kind of just writing out a list for myself.
Welcome to the forum Seaward. You have made your posts in a short period of time, it takes a little time for the change in membership status to change. However, it might help you if you log off the forum, then log back in. This resets the cookies and may change your status.
Sorry, my camera batteries were dead, but, you have to remove the dash cluster from the console, and unplug the plug from the back of the guage cluster. The knob on the hand throttle pulls off, I usually put a crescent wrench under the knob and tap the wrench.
Thanks much ATCO, and again sorry for the thread hijack troyharnish
No problem, Seaward. Thanks, Mitch; I'm hoping to take that apart today if it warms up (currently -20, no garage).
Any idea how the fuseblock is secured to that back metal bracket? Is it bolted on?
The three blocks are single with slots to hold them together, each block has two screws that mount them to the metal frame work, have seen the blocks melted before do to the corrosion at the fuse contacts building lots of heat mostly in the open cab units while lighting is being used.You will need to remove the trim with heat and air controls also and pull the park brake handle up, alot of those small dash screws give trouble while removing also. I remove the four seat bolts and harness and set that seat to the side or set it off the machine/may need some help due to seat weight.
An idea to use so you don't have to find the current drain. Get a continuous duty 12 volt relay & wire it into a circuit that is controlled by the ignition switch. Then wire the fuse block to it. That way the fuse block equipment is turned on & off by the ignition switch. Also a great way to supply a heavy load or when adding extra electrical equipment. Everything is turned on by the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is off you know all circuits are dead.
and take the seat assy. out of there first! bitch working on your head anyway down there without being wrapped around seat.had one with bad connector on back and was a real treat for awhile.
Thanks, everyone. After thinking about it, I think I am going to install a battery selector switch (the 1/ 2/ both/ off type), and connect everything up using 1/0 welding cable, and run a dedicated feed to the fuse block off the output terminal of the selector switch. That way, I know for certain there is no power draw, and I can keep circuits very simple. Still want to use the factory fuse block, once it warms up I am going to take a stab at sprucing it up.
i bought a machine with the same problems... seems like you found a good solution. thanks
My friend has a 580k and I get to use it when I need it but I hate using equipment where none of the guages work or lights or anything else electrical except starting. So I've been reading your posts and getting all kinds of ideas on how to proceed on getting this thing working properly. Hell, working without lights is too dangerous as dusk rolls in and it's getting earlier every day. Since there's only a couple fuses in the fuse block, knowing what each is for would be nice though, has anyone got a picture of the fuseblock and what each fuse is for?
Welcome to HEF Learning-more2! Here a pic of the decal that should have been under the fuse box lid. :drinkup
Now that's FANTASTIC Thank's Alrman, it might actually be of help to others too! At least on this one nobody clipped off any wires, just pulled out most of the fuses instead. I didn't just start shoving fuses in since I don't know what they were for or if there was a bad issue but knowing what they were for is a big start.