Got a friend with a Case 580 Super E and the hydraulics worked fine til he changed the fluid and filter, now he has no hydraulics. He has pressurized the hydraulic tank and bled all lines and has slight movement in hydraulics. Any possible solutions or ideas would be appreciated.
Pressure should have pushed fluid to the pump. But it is possible you still have an air lock. Loosen a line near the out/pressure side of the pump and confirm that fluid is getting through the pump. Check the main relief valve. Maybe it is stuck.
There could be an outside chance there is a problem with the new filter. Collapsed suction line is a possibility. Pump could even be faulty. Splines on the pump input shaft partially stripped. Any noises anywhere ? There is a flow check valve in the return line that may need to be checked for function or crap in it.
Thanks for the help. Turns out the equipment is a 580L, possibly a 1990 model. Still does not work. Should a certain type of hydraulic fluid be used?
FYI the 580L model did not really start until 1995, so either your friend has a 580K from 1990 or a 580L ~1995+ A picture would help all identify. Opinions differ on this forum regarding hydraulic oil. What did your friend use for oil? Typically even the cheapest oil would initially move cylinders unless in cold weather. As you ask for ideas … Is the filter correct for the machine as your friend does not seem to know what machine he has? Where did your friend purchase the hydraulic filter? At a Case dealership or from some auto store where the kid behind the counter was not out of diapers when the backhoe was made? When the filters were changed, is your friend savvy enough to look to remove any packing plastic wrap on the new filter(s)? Did your friend run the pump dry after changing the oil? If so, pump damage could result.
It's recommended to use Case Hytrans but you should still have hydraulics with about any fluid. It's just that the recommended fluid will give longer service life to components.
As mg2361 would say ----- Please post the tractor serial number.
Serial #JJG0239030 Model # 580L Filter used: Wix Filter 51495 (yes plastic was removed) Type oil used: Super Tech Economy Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission Fluid Cylinders move slightly, but not with pressure.
Do you have a service manual??
Not at the moment.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Servi...266671?hash=item288f069b2f:g:ij0AAOSwtYxeUAH8 Check #8 The main relief valve on the outlet section of the loader valve
You could use 10/30 motor oil in the hydraulics on that machine and it would work just fine. I bought one with 12,000 hrs. and that's all the guy ever used in it. How long did the machine run after refilling and how much time was spent trying each function ?
By my understanding the serial number points to a series 1, 580L from late 90s. When purchasing manuals make sure your serial number is within range for the manual. Just to confirm, the oil level is full after the change, correct? (about 15 gallons needed) Also, the hydraulic filter restriction alarm/light is not active, correct? I found a 580L operator’s manual and see there is reference to a “pump charge procedure” after fluid change. I assume you/your-friend have seen that in the machine’s manual. If not, it states to see the Service Manual or Case dealer for proper startup procedure. Unfortunately, I don’t have a 580L service manual to confirm, but I seem to recall applying around 5 psi of air pressure to the reservoir while another person starts and runs the engine at low idle. (This is from memory so I would recommend to calling your dealer to obtain the proper procedure) In the original post referencing pressurizing the tank, what specific procedure was done? Did it involve anything that included running the engine at high rpm that might have damaged the pump by oil starvation?
From the service manual
Really appreciate this information Tinkerer new member here also retired local 150. Pulled out oil cooler for repair may have to pressurize system was wondering how to do that thanks Steve.
Hey Steve Pressurizing the hydraulic tank after changing oil depends on model on 580L series when you remove the battery box cover you'll see a plug in the back of hyd. tank remove it and plumb a air fitting with small ball valve to pressurize the tank (be sure and secure fill neck cap securely) you don't need much pressure only about 10-20 psi then start machine and work loader until it works.
Thanks Coy mine is a 580k can I pressurize through the filler cap?
The parts book shows a plug in the filler cap (#18) ,Steve. The filler appears to be the easiest way. I see you have a sight glass, so no dipstick tube.
Excellent thanks Tinkerer.
Just wanted to say thanks to Tinkerer and Coy for the info,put my cooler back in yesterday pressurized system all is good thanks again Steve.
Awesome ! Thanks for the update.
It is very easy to ruin the hydraulic pump due to the way the suction run is designed, The reservoir is mounted low and they do not gravity feed to the pump, I have worked on dozens of them over my career, When I do that process I always put a 1/4 flat face coupler on the pressure test port with a hose into a 5 gal bucket before starting the machine, that allows air in the suction run to be pulled out. the pump does not have to pump air against static pressure in the system I have seen pumps destroyed during the servicing process. I personally do not see how pressurizing the reservoir is of any benefit as common sense tells you that you are also pressurizing the return side as well and as I said, I have been there many times in my 50 yr Case career and freeing up the flow on the output of the pump is the quickest safest way. Also just my two cents and do not want to start a war on oils but I would use nothing but Hy Tran Ultra in any hydraulic system I cared about. Good oils have additives to help the oil from foaming and I have seen first hand the results of inferior oils, also there is a difference in cylinder packing life with HTU. I am convinced of that. I was threatened by a Oil company for discouraging my customers from using a certain brand. I have posted here before on this problem, this certain brand oil swelled the piston packing material to the point that the cylinders would literally squeal when moving and when rebuilding they had to be pulled apart on our rollback with the winch. In service I was on the front lines fighting these problems and I believe stand on pretty firm footing. I do not know of any other oil with the exception oh HY Gard JD oil that I would put in a machine that has to do 8-10 hrs a day. There may be other oils out there, probably are, but I would just as soon stay with what I know works.
Thanks for the info melben,my hydralics seem to be fine,did put Hy Tran fluid in.Looked in my owner’s manual under hydraulic oil filter change doesn’t even say anything about priming pump little scary.My 580k took 5 gallons to refill.
Glad it all turned out well. I have seen pump failure in our shop from pumps not priming, just a little squeal and they are history, I'd rather not take the chance, Once you have worked on this stuff as many years as I have and watched gauges and seen several hundred pounds of back pressure on a normal working system with no systems activated you can see why a pump that is airlocked cannot purge itself. Putting a 1/4 inch quick coupler on the test port and relieving the pressure is just like loosening a line and a lot quicker.
I think it’s fine but I value your opinion melben,the lines stayed full of fluid the 4 days it took to repair the cooler,everything is working fine do you think it’s good?
Steve, looking back over this thread and saw your note, the 580K uses a high reservoir which gravity feeds the pump, you will not have the particular problem typical of the outboard reservoirs.
Thanks melben appreciate the response!
I have a 580SL. Would I use the same coupler as on the 580E? I am new to hydraulic fittings. I need to find the correct coupler to set the main relief valve pressure.
That should be a common 1/4 flat face coupler, most hydraulic shops can fix you up.
Welcome to HEF, you LuckyDog !
Friend of a friend had a gauge with a 10 foot hose that fit. Was nice to sit in cab and see pressures while operating the valves. Turns out for my 580SL series 1, it's an ISO 15171-1 fitting. The diameter of the nippel is 12.5mm (0.49 in). (a.k.a. 1/8 body) A 1/4 flat face nipple is 5/8" diameter. (0.625) Just FYI. Hope it helps someone down the road.