this is my first backhoe changed fluids and filters used hydrolic fluid from tractor parts,used hy-tran in shuttle,was told to use 85w-140 in front chunk and wheel bearings also in 4-wheel drive gear box. i also used the 84-w140 in the trans axel i have read i should have used the hy-tran instead. can the 85w-140 cause a problem with the trans axle do i need to change it again. thanks for any help!
If you have a early E it had dry brakes, but if it is a later one it will have wet brakes. If that is a wet brake machine the brakes will not work very good if at all.
The transaxle S/N before 16276842 can use the 85/140, but the transaxle S/N 16276842 and after use the case gear lube p/n B17632 no alternate 20.5 quarts, tag is on the rear of the transaxle on the right hand side where the axle housing bolts to the transaxle, been awhile since i looked for one.
could not find the numbers but the brakes look like their mounted in external housings . so i guess these are dry brakes. thanks
580E model had a number of different brake designs. Early 580E's had a lever set up for brakes - if this is your set up, brakes will be dry. If it has a disc park brake on the front of transaxle - check this thread, some are dry & some are wet -
mine has a cylinder on top of each side . it does not look like the photo thanks
Yes, but did you look at the other thread? It discusses your configeration, (cylinder on top )- some are dry & some wet - the thread tells you what to look for If you use the wrong oil - the brakes won't work properly.
looked at it again i did not see a vent next to the cylinder so i must have wet brakes.looks like a fluid change .
can you tell me how to remove the front axel from a 580se 4x4?
Welcome to HEF rikbolen.:drinkup Have not done one of these for a long time.The field removal method from memory-, simply remove the guard, undo the driveshaft, I think the tie rod needs to be removed undo the two hyd hoses to from machine to axle & plug them to prevent oil loss during removal remove the wheels lower them to just touching the ground, (hopefully the loader does not creep) remove the front retainer bolts & rear clamp bolts, keep track of the shims & where they go.... jiggle it clear & then raise the machine off the axle. In a workshop you could raise the wheels off the ground & support the chassis Raise & lock loader frame Use a jack to support the axle & lower it down It goes without saying - Use your eyes & think about what you are doing -KEEP SAFE! Out of curiosity, what is the problem with it?
sorry, i should be more specific. im changing front drive u-joints. i need to get the long shaft out of the axel housing so i cant replace seal and install new u-joint. what hols the shaft in the housing? some have told me it should slide right out, but it only moves bout 1/2 " then stops. any ideas?