Have old super l (high hours and run down road)a lot) with the issue of front engine mount bolts breaking. Read some of the post on subject but never heard a possible solution short of replacing or resurfacing block and pump cradle. Any info would be appreciated Eddirt
Welcome to HEF, Eddirt ! The bolts should not be shearing if the bushings fit tightly in the block and cradle. The bushings do the same function as dowl pins did in other Case engine and cradle joints. Are the motor mounts in good condition ? Especially the one under the pump cradle. The rubber bushing fails quite often in it.
Here is some info I should have included yesterday. Notice that the bolts are metric. If the holes for the bushings are damaged enough as to not hold those bushings tight, the lower holes may be able to be drilled out to install the bushings there.
Tinkerer, thanks for the reply. The rubber mounts on front and rear of engine have been replaced. The bushing holes do have some irregular wear but new ones fit fairly tight. Interesting idea about moving to bottom hole. If you did that would you still use the top? Could one find a threaded bush? Maybe oversized the top bushing? What about longer threaded bolt on top hole with couple nuts ? (be easier to replace if break)? Helicoil all for holes? As you may can tell it’s been a real PAIN. Ty Eddirt
When the tractor was made, the mounting hole of the hydraulic pump was precision bored to ensure the crankshaft center line and the input shaft of the pump are lined up perfectly. If the bushings are fairly tight you could use an epoxy like Belzona to bed them in. I wouldn't use anything but NEW OEM bolts in those holes. Threaded rod wouldn't have the same OD as the unthreaded part of the bolt and that would leave room for it to move in the bushing. The bolts shouldn't be breaking if the bushings are tight in the cradle and the block. The bolts need to be properly tightened with a torque wrench.
Tinkerer Due to the hours and condition of the 580 we decided try this: Top holes: longer harder bolt with treads extended to allow cradle to tighten up to block and pass through Bottom holes: same bolt as top and 1/4” longer Next cut 1/4” plate to fit both sides of front of cradle. Put longer bolt on top to tread completely through the hole an cut another plate to fit on bolt and installed a nut Bottom hole same but does not pass through. Torqued all bolts and welded plate to connect the front and rear plates and welded the bolt heads to plate Thanks again for your replies Eddirt
Many years ago Case had an alignment problem with some front castings in the 580 series, this caused very premature spline and hydraulic pump coupler wear on I believe the B series, at that time there was a tool that was a piece of spline material with a precision stem that stuck out to accept the clamp on a dial indicator so the runout could be determined, by turning the engine and watching the indicator full circle. It may be in your best interest to try to determine where you are as much misalignment is going to cost pumps and couplers and downtime if your living depends on this unit, Case's fix for their B problem was a new pump pilot piece and a longer driveshaft and when the new pilot was aligned then we pinned the new pilot with dowels to hold center when the pump was removed in the future.
That is a very creative repair. Time will tell if the two shafts are in alignment. I suspect that was the problem that caused the bolts to shear after they were replaced the first time.
This machine was used for road boring for many years. Dig the pit then attach bore machine to 580 hydraulic system and bore hole. Many hours sitting running wide full throttle and roaded a lot. That said, to my knowledge only one pump replacement and that was after all the mounting bolts were broken and was run for who knows how long. Now it’s just a farm machine that trying to squeeze a little more time. Thanks to all for the comments. I sure I will be seeking advice again.