Heavy Equipment Forums Heavy Equipment Community

Case 580SL Won’t move-no drive

highwayghost · 2019-11-01 23:08

Hi, New member, I recently purchased a 580SL(1994?) w/6500 hours. Seems in good shape for the age/hours. I finally got time to use it several months after it was delivered and all was fine. Worked it for several days, no issues to report when the extend cylinder started leaking. No big deal... Parked it, dismantled and ordered cylinder parts/tools. 2-3 weeks went by and went to move it for the cylinder repairs, no drive forward or reverse. Got it to engage a couple more times but not consistently, now nothing. Good thing is no computer, just switches and relays. So far fuses, relays, selector switch seem good. Trans is full. Any ideas???

Replies27
  1. #1alrman2019-11-01 23:37

    Welcome to HEF @highwayghost Have you confirmed that power is getting to the control valve solenoids located on the top of the transmission when selecting Forward & Reverse?

  2. #2highwayghost2019-11-01 23:47

    No not yet. That is my next move along with a trans oil change. I had to clean years of dirt and oil from the underside before i could find everything. I want to believe it is something simple as it was working strong with no noises before parked. Hoping to work on it tomorrow. Something else to look for ???? Thanks

  3. #3alrman2019-11-01 23:59

    There's lots of things to go wrong, you need to know if it's an electrical / hydraulic / mechanical problem. By seeing if those solenoids are clicking while attempting FNR operation is the first thing to do. A common electrical issue is this - Look at the relays in the fusebox area. One relay is taller than the all the others - time delay relay - give it a wriggle & make sure it is all the way in to it's socket..... you never know....

  4. #4highwayghost2019-11-02 00:12

    I had ALL the relays out including the time delay relay, cleaned the spade terminals and reinstalled checking for operation and couldn't find any not working so far.

  5. #5doghead2019-11-02 05:56

    Test your neutral switch(red button) on the loader lever. I've seen them stick "on", and keep it in neutral.

  6. #6highwayghost2019-11-02 07:40

    Thanks. Hoping check out all the electric again today. Is there a separate oil section for the shuttle shift or is it all feed from the main trans oil with the long dipstick under the hood? Any screens that can be accessed? I pulled the filter and the oil looked good. Plan to change the oil/filter today too.

  7. #7Tinkerer2019-11-02 08:06

    Yes there is. It would be nice know what series your 580SL is. Members need to know that to give accurate help and advise.

  8. #8highwayghost2019-11-02 08:27

    I'm thinking it's a series 1 but not completely sure. Is there an easy way to tell?? What are the differences between?? It's new to me and didn't come with any manuals(i asked) and since this happened I'm still gather the info. Just received manuals a couple of days ago. Still studying. Have the serial number but not handy at the moment. Bad thing is it's an hour away at a friends so getting everything needed to and fro is a pain. Not in the greatest place to work on it either and with weather changing here in PA praying the tranny doesn't need pulled. Good thing is by the time I'm done I'll know my way around it preety well! Thanks

  9. #9Coy Lancaster2019-11-02 17:46

    As been said already check voltage at all relays also at your FNR lever, solenoids and declutch buttons on shifter and loader lever. Also check pressures at trans control valve some of the early machines had issues with pump drive contacts.

  10. #10highwayghost2019-11-03 04:30

    Didn't get to the electrical yesterday as I was fixing my friends tractor but I did change the trans oil/filter and clean the screen. Everything appeared good. Nothing to report as the screen was clean, an appropriate amount of oil drained that had a little color I would consider normal, no burnt smell or water. Magnets were normal with only a minimal amount of black fines on both screen and drain plug. Good to see previous owner used all Case filters. Plan is to do more electrical testing today. Thanks

  11. #11sled dog2019-11-03 04:34

    Young man, I had one a while back that the contacts in the shifter handle came apart. Just a thought for you...

  12. #12highwayghost2019-11-03 04:44

    Thank You, I'll check it out today, Hopefully... Things here don't always go as planned!

  13. #13highwayghost2019-11-03 21:16

    Had some success today as i found the Neutral and Shuttle Time Delay relays inoperative along with one blown fuse on the 4WD circuit(that I may have blown during testing). Wiring to the relays checked out. Replaced the Neutral relay with a standard relay but a standard relay didn't work in the Time Delay relay position so I put a temporary jumper across. This worked to engage the trans but I did not move the machine. One problem I notice is that the 4WD is engaged even though the switch is off. Hoping that the machine just needs moved some to release the gears. My question is what engages the 4WD? Is it also on the top of the trans by the shuttle solenoid mechanism? I'm aware of the 580 trouble of being stuck in 4WD. Mine was working fine before this.

  14. #14alrman2019-11-03 22:00

    4WD on the shuttleshift is engaged while there is NO 12V power supplied to the solenoid. To engage 2WD 12V power is supplied to the solenoid. (at transmission control valve) I've always carried a spare Time Delay Relay to test their operation in situations like this. Part #347706A3 I have only ever purchased genuine CNH. **TIP...... be sitting down when they tell you the price ....$$$

  15. #15highwayghost2019-11-04 03:13

    Great information! Thanks. I also had planned on buying two and carrying a spare because they are uncommon. Do you know what that other relay is for?? It's slightly taller than the Time Delay relay, is on the opposite(right side and sets back a little) of the fuse/relay panel. It points up instead of out like the others. It's not identified on the fuse panel door and has nonstandard pinning with some added small terminals. Won't get back to it for several days. I'll order the parts. Appreciate all the help!! Roger, Pittsburgh, PA

  16. #16highwayghost2019-11-04 04:27

    I see what you meant about the price! Just ordered. Ouch! $100.00+.... Just going to buy one for now. My wife is already calling this my new "Money Pit" Thanks again!

  17. #17highwayghost2019-11-07 21:27

    That 'other relay' or so I thought, appears to be the signal/hazard flasher according to the parts diagram, if I'm reading it right. They are not working either so I'll need to check that out.

  18. #18highwayghost2019-11-10 08:27

    Yeaaa!! Got the machine moving again yesterday. The Shuttle Time Delay relay was the problem. I'll try to figure out today why it won't switch out of 4WD. Probably just another electrical issue. The previous owner has done some 'work around' wiring to some circuits. Need to figure them out and put it back to original as best I can. So many things taken apart it it will take a week to put it all back together. The more I look the more I find that could use some attention, so while I'm in there........ Thanks to all for your help!

  19. #19Coy Lancaster2019-11-10 18:10

    Glad you got it to move again. Remember the fwd is engaged when there is no voltage to the solenoid. Check your switch and relay and solenoid.

  20. #20highwayghost2019-11-11 04:02

    Got the 4WD to work properly again! During all the testing I forgot to plug the solenoid back in. Dahhh! May have been the beer as we celebrate even the small victories with a beer break! Repaired several relay wires and removed the work around wiring. Got the turn signal/hazard circuit functioning but still no lights on. May just be bulbs, but wouldn't think all 4 would be out. Will get back to that soon. The alternator is not charging. I replaced the regulator with new but no joy. Super easy. When I removed and saw the condition of the old one I figured that was it. Any ideas?? I realize this is off topic since the drive is all working again. Just wanted to update. So many times we read the problems but never hear what fixed it. Thanks again! Roger, Pittsburgh, PA

  21. #21Coy Lancaster2019-11-11 07:23

    Sounds like a good weekend. I’d check alt. Output and trigger wire from key switch.

  22. #22highwayghost2019-11-11 07:41

    Your probably right. Since I posted I've been doing some studying. I have the dash panel unplugged and out of the machine for the other testing. From what I get so far the alternator light is in the circuit for the exciter and with the panel out the alternator won't charge. Would this be correct?? Did I shoot myself in the foot again?? I'm not disappointed that I changed the regulator as the brushes were about gone anyway.

  23. #23Coy Lancaster2019-11-11 07:50

    You are correct about dash. And changing regulator probably saved you in the long run.

  24. #24highwayghost2019-11-11 08:00

    Thanks... Won't get back to it for a few days. Turning cold here and working outside.

  25. #25Coy Lancaster2019-11-11 20:07

    Yeah cold here too

  26. #26hammer head2024-01-17 12:55

    I have been following this thread, for I have the same exact problem with mine I do know for a fact mine is a series 1 by the serial number my question is while I was moving my nest of wires around it would occasionally pop in and out of gear in the process of doing that their smoke was coming out of the very top left relay is that the time delay relay for the shuttle that you guys are talking about. I did the same thing and bought a different relay to no avail the numbers on that relay or non-readable. The part number that was entered into this thread earlier 347706A3 is that the correct number for that relay. My next question when I was fooling around with it with a light tester I did have power to one side, when I put it in gear I got power to the opposite side is this normal

  27. #27westerner2024-01-17 19:48

    If your wiggle test is making it try to shift or letting a little smoke out, I think you have found a problem. Machine vibrations that could rub wire insulation thru to copper is the reason why the factory ties all that stuff down in such an obsessive kind of way.... When wires get crossed, all kinds of seemingly unrelated stuff can happen. It does not take much surface area to make contact. My Mom had a '79 Sedan DeVille. When the harness that passed thru the driver's door hinge area wore thru, you would not believe all the weird stuff that showed up....