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CASE 580SM Shuttle Shift Issues

Koopsy ยท 2022-07-26 21:58

Hello, Has anyone experienced "hard" shuttle shifting from forward to reverse or vice versa with a CASE backhoe? It's much worse in 4x4, the front tires spin/jolt forward when shuttled into forward. Bobby

Replies8
  1. #1mitch5042022-07-27 11:16

    Is your machine possibly idling too fast? Dumb question: you are letting the rpms drop all the way down before you shift, aren't you?

  2. #2Toxic2022-07-27 11:39

    I am curious about this as well cause my NH 555e does this too at low idle...I don't notice so much after I start working a bit tho

  3. #3Koopsy2022-07-27 20:23

    I allow idle to drop before shuttle shifting. I'm thinking high idle speed may be a contributing factor. It's not too bad cold but as the engine warms up the idle speed increases along with the hard shuttle shifting. However, it doesn't seem to be a big issue when 4x4 is disengaged, but when 4x4 is engaged it knocks hard. I have a Cummins 4bt with an IP4390IL-E injection pump in my backhoe, I'll try decreasing idle speed and see if anything changes, but first I need to find out how to make those adjustments. I find it odd that all of a sudden the idle speed would be the issue. I was thinking more along the lines of there being a problem within the powershift unit. Bobby

  4. #4alrman2022-07-27 21:16

    Sometimes the front axle has excessive end float at the oscilation/pivot pin, causing it to BANG when selecting forward. Lower the loader to take the weight of the machine, so the front wheels are just touching the ground, then hop off & rock the front wheels fwd & back by hand & see how much movement you have. Most times you will only need to add of shim or two the pivot area, which makes quite a difference when operating the machine.

  5. #5Koopsy2022-07-27 21:46
  6. #6Koopsy2022-07-27 21:47

    Should I be looking at #3 & 4 for play and shims? Or should I be looking at the front driveshaft? Bobby

  7. #7alrman2022-07-27 22:03

    Item #3 is the shim I am referring to (#4 is a bushing). The shim/s (if required) would be put in at the front, by removing the front circlip/snap ring & tapping the pivot pin towards rear & then inserting the shim/washers. The axle will tend to drop forward when you do this - just enough to stop the pin lining up to push back through to the front. So a jack may be necessary to raise the front of the axle just that bit needed to align the holes & allow the pin to go back into place.

  8. #8Koopsy2022-07-27 22:15

    Thanks a bunch, I'll definitely give it a whirl. I'm almost at 10 000 hours, if it'll only cost me a couple of shims that'd be great. Thanks again!