New member, thanks for having me! I was at a friend's house today and noticed an old backhoe sitting out behind the barn. A case 780. Their dad used to be an equipment mechanic and when he passed, he left a bunch of equipment on the property that was abandoned that he never fixed. Long story short, he has been passed away for more than 20 years and this machine has been sitting for about 25 years. The notes he left on it were "water in oil". My friend is trying to start to clean up the mess but is beyond frustrated with it, he was having a rough day and semi-jokingly i said "heck, i'll throw you $500 for the backhoe right now no questions asked". 5 minutes later i had a bill of sale and now am the owner of the machine, but lord do i have questions. i will try and number them and post them all here if any of you kind folk can help out. 1: We have no idea what year it is, there is no serial number, it appears the plate was painted over and it was printed not engraved. The only info we have is the ROPS number (5500605), the info from the "sims" cab sticker which states; tractor model :780 , ROPS part number 1000-0240 , Gross vehicle weight 26,000lbs , and serial number 12,197. there are some numbers on the engine and other places (pictures attached) but i believe the painted over sticker would have had the original serial. Any other way to find out what year, etc. this thing is so i can order rebuild kits and parts to get it back fixed up? 2: The machine doesn't start or run and I don't want to even try with the water in the oil. We have some smaller ag tractors with backhoes around the ranch but I have never dealt with construction equipment of this size beyond operating it. What would be the easiest way for me to get the backhoe and front loader lifted and chained so we can winch it onto a lowboy to move it to the ranch so I can start tearing into it? 3: By looking at photos for comparison, I believe it is an early 70's model with the A336 BDT, although I could be wrong. I have looked at new engines and just decided heck no! as this was an impulse buy and its been over a decade and a half since i restored our old truck, i figured i would make a pet restoration project out of this and rebuild it all myself, once i find out the year, etc, i can get manuals, and i own tools, what could go wrong right? I was thinking of doing a complete overhaul (out of frame) on the engine, i started googling Case A336 BDT rebuild kits and......... oh lord!!!!! so many options, and so many different specs, getting the feeling I have bitten off more than I can chew, but hoping to try anyway with some knowledge of others I can find online. Have any of you ever done it before? any references on where to get parts, info, make sure I buy the right stuff, warning points before I start disassembly, etc.? 4: on the topic of customizations, the plan is to tear the whole machine down, every nut and bolt, the seat is down to the metal frame, the steering wheel down to the core, wires chewed by rodents, etc. but the body is in great shape lesser the missing hood. the plan is to sandblast, and repaint the entire machine inside and out ( we have a large spray booth), new rubber all the way around, all new hoses, etc, but these old machines leave some things to be desired. Anybody ever put climate control in one of these old things like an aftermarket A/C & heat setup? Custom radio and speakers? a more modern and secure key/ignition switch? and last but most important to me, anyone ever put a custom seat in one of these? i have a bad back, bad hips, and struggle when sitting in rugged seats? i know i could just buy a new seat like what was in there, but would like to explore alternative options if anyone has any pointers? 5: Does anybody know of any YouTube videos or build journals available online from anyone who was as crazy as i am and attempted or completed a project on one of these? 6: For anybody out there who owns a case 780, what are the things you would change about the machine if you could, or things you have changed? 7: Has anyone ever put tracks on the rear of one of these? We are in a sandy desert and a loader with 2wd is rather useless because of traction issues. 8: lastly, beyond "give up before you even start, this sounds like absolute insanity" as this is just a going to try it to see if I can do it as it was so cheap to start type project to keep me busy. Is there any general advice from any of you who have restored old machinery before that you think may be helpful that you would be willing to share? Thank you to anyone who can shed even the smallest amount of light on any of these questions. I haven't told my wife yet, but next week am going to have to explain why there is a lowboy pulling in with an old backhoe up to our shop. I could use a bit of knowledge as a confidence boost and to at least halfway sound like I know what I'm talking about.
Maybe some pictures of the entire machine might help with getting it identified better.
Some more pics if it will help me narrow down on model year and other info
That is a 780CK model and I had one like it. Very robust machine but heavy. Very heavy in the back end so likes to bounce on the roadway. Air over hydraulic brakes that worked well on mine. Well supported by JI Case at the time but this was the very early 2000's so don't know about now with Fiat in the mix.
Thanks for the info!!! Do you think putting ballast in the front tires like a rimguard beet juice product may help with the bouncing issue? or is that just an all-around bad idea?
Just got them uploaded, Thanks for the advice!
Your's may not have the problem. Mine had X-hoe and a 4 in 1 1.25yd bucket on the front and 24" rear bucket. Also on the rear dipper was a very heavy weldment for grasping logs and swinging them. My tractor was just shy of 30K in weight and not balanced proper. It ran very well and had plenty of power. If it would have had a differential lock feature would have probably kept it as it liked to slip a rear wheel easily when using it as a dozer. Engine is a Case, transmission, and rear axle are Clark. It is a two speed forward and reverse transmission and clutch pressure is critical to maintain or it will not put power to the ground.
Thanks for the info! Wonder if I can find a locking diff. to swap in.
The machine serial number plate should riveted be on the side of the steering column. You could have either a 780 or a 780CK. They look similar. I have the service manual for the 336BDT engine. Send me your email address in a Private Message and I will let you download it from my Google Drive. I have some 780 parts books in .pdf format also, but a serial number of the machine is critical so you get the correct one. Revisions were made in the same models and that resulted in different parts books for them. If you have a 780C the serial number is on chassis under the cab door. The image below is for a 780CK
Thanks tinkered! I checked every square inch of the machine and every tag, plate, and number on it. Didn't see any other plate or tag in the cab besides the rops number but I'll check again. There is a tag ( in the first photos ) that is square and painted over on the frame on the driver side under the loader arm. Let me give it one more hard look over tomorrow and I'll send you a P.M. Appreciate the help!
Have fun, that engine is going to be a challenge. More than likely liners are pitted out from cavitation because it took until the 90s before everyone realized that good coolant with proper DCA in it prevented such problems. Also a very good bet is the counterbores will be trashed, requiring them to be machined out and inserts installed? Maybe they do it differently now? You will probably be getting very familiar with https://www.brokentractor.com/ Good luck and happy posting.
Thanks shimmy, appreciate the heads up! You've rebuilt a 336bdt before? Any other things to be on the look out for?
My dad rebuilt a 336BD in his 680E I think 4 times, I have replaced a liner and piston in one when it dropped a valve in the gravel pit (that was a fun time). I have also rebuilt a 504BDT in a 2670 tractor. All I know is the counterbores (the bottom ledge in the block where the liner seals into) are prone to cracking, and are usually all corroded and pitted to ****. Those injectors probably don't have a prayer of coming out, and every single exhaust manifold bolt is going to break off but who cares, you'll want to put new heads on anyway (or have yours rebuilt, in any case you won't care). Be extra careful and folllw book procedure for torque when installing the water jacket and intake manifold, they are lighter aluminum and you can break the mounting holes out. Pretty simple engines, no balance shafts to deal with like newer 4 bangers.
The engine oil pump has four mounting bolts. There are shims between the pump and block that sets the crankshaft gear and pump gear clearance. The gears have timing marks on them. it is critical to time it correctly because it controls the crankshaft vibration. Those shims can sometimes stick to either the pump or block. Sometimes both when the pump is removed.
I'm a big know-nothing, so take that for what it's worth... I hope you like a good puzzle, because this may be one. I'm trying to do simple things with my modern machine and I'm struggling to find correct stuff. That's not said to discourage you, it sounds like you know what you are getting into. As far as moving it, I don't think I read any suggestions, but I think If you chain/block things up, then loosen hoses connected to those implements, then likely use a comealong to tighten/raise things to where you need them and rechain and block. That'll be an adventure by itself. Stay out from under anything and beware of a swinging boom, if you loosen that line. I'd be curious if there is any pressure behind the hydraulics, if it's been sitting that long, I have no idea. This will be fun to watch and I think you found a good website full of people that can help much more than me, as you've already found above.
I'm wondering what 25 years of sitting has done to the machine. There is a good chance 50% of the hydraulic hoses will need replaced once it runs. Greater chance the hydraulic cylinder seals are rotted. Do you have much experience in these types of repairs, including the engine? Tooling?
Looking at these pictures, it doesn't look half bad. Get the engine running, then do hoses and cylinders as they go. Might avoid eating all this at once.
I'll be the voice of reason. Parts will probably be difficult the case/new holland parts system is falling apart I've had trouble getting stuff If you truly intend to do a nut and bolt resto it is going to be about 4 times more expensive then you intend. When all Said and done you will still have a old over weight backhoe
I can appreciate the desire to restore an antique. It is a lot of work, and is cost prohibitive compared to buying a newer, more modern machine that runs. But, if you have the time, desire, and perseverance to flow through, it can be quite the rewarding project. I own my grandfather's old John Deere 310A. It runs well, but it's nearing in on 40 years old. I can use it as it sits today, and I do regularly, but I could also go dump $10,000 into it really fast with repairs and upgrades. It needs new work lights, several hoses could be replaced, couple cylinder need re-pack, backhoe hydraulic valve bank needs resealed, the right brake doesn't work, pins and bushings could be replaced, both rear tires are worn right down, the seat pedestal needs to be rebuilt, seat could be replaced, heater replaced, needs paint, exhaust could be replaced, and the list goes on. If the engine didn't run, or transmission didn't function, I wouldn't have even considered buying it with everything else that needs attention. For under $20,000, you can buy a really nice, newer 4wd backhoe for farm and ranch work that would be more productive, and probably be supported by a dealer still. That said, I tackle what is most pressing on my old hoe as needed. I have the new work lights and seal kit for the cylinders for when I get time. I'll work my way through it as time and funds permit. I do look forward to watching your thread though and I hope you can find out what you have and are able to get the parts you need. Best wishes from Michigan!
Wow! So much good information, thank you for taking the time to share it!
Just to make sure I am understanding correctly then.... When I take it off, count the shims and photograph the timing. Replace the shims with the same number and size of shims, and exact same bolts and make sure the timing is exactly the same when I reassemble the engine? Or am I way off base?
I've restored dozens of old diesel trucks, from 1 ton pickups to a few stewart and stevenson military trucks, a dump truck conversion and an old semi. Never a piece of construction equipment though. I'm approaching this the same as I have with the old trucks. Even if I think I know something, I assume I don't know it and verify the info before I proceed with every step. If I can find a new part for something, I replace it, right down to the lug nuts, although in this case I need to find 2 new front rims as well as these are dinged up and bent. I won't be repacking the hydraulic cylinders, I'll be looking to buy new ones. And even if it looks fine, I will be replacing every hydraulic line. New seat, glass, pretty much everything. I've seen rebuilt engines for sale around $7,000 but even though it's likely to be more expensive, want the experience of rebuilding this one just to gain the knowledge. I plan on stripping it down to a bare block, sending it off to be machined and powder coated, the rebuilding it myself with as many new parts as I can find. I like to tinker, and like to be wrong so I can learn from it. I'm almost disappointed when I rebuild an old diesel engine and it fires up perfectly the first time as I feel like there is nothing more to learn from it. I usually send out or replace parts that need to be machined, I have a lathe and welder but that's where my machines end. We have a large sand blaster and paint booth, but that's for cosmetic work if I get it to live again. All in all, this started out as a $500 impulse buy and in my mind, I saved it from being torched to pieces and hauled off to the scrap yard. If I fail at my engine rebuild, I'll suck it up and buy a reman engine. Same with the Trans. But I don't give up easy.
Thanks JL. I though she was kind of pretty. I look at it more as a hobby. I don't even need the machine, 2 of our tractors have backhoes on them and we have a new 85p excavator. It's not "eating" expenses for me, it's making something old new again and learning from the experience.
You're probably right, I haven't even set a budget for the project, I seldom do. Talking to my local case dealer, I can already see parts will be a fun journey. Thank you for letting me know you're having issues though, it helps me set reasonable expectations.
I by no means am trying to stop you but expect some bumps in the road and keep us posted if you do go for the rebuild
I'm bull headed, or so my wife says. I don't think anything is going to stop me, although not having a serial number sure is holding me back a lot.
Can you get the serial number that is/ should be on the differential ? That will indicate what model the tractor is and which parts book you need to use. Provided it has the original or same as, differential in it. I am pretty sure you have an early model 780CK. check this brochure out > https://assets.cnhindustrial.com/ca...es/cce_LB_Historic_780_specs_06-26-2009_1.pdf
i don't remember seeing one on it, I was going to go up to the machine today to look more, but it has poured rain all morning and our ranch road is a mud pit. May be Saturday before I can get out of here to go look again. The Sims cab tag says it's just a 780, where the stickers were on the side (they have been painted over) it just says 780, no numbers I have found give me anything, but I did chat with a guy who used to work for the forest service division that use to own it back in the '70s and he said if he remembers correctly it was a 1972 780 CK, he was in his 20's back then and worked in the shop and vaguely remembers working on it, they had been requesting a backhoe for their district for years I guess and it was a big deal when they finally got it. At the forest service office, there is a photo of the machine in 1974 digging out a bunch of brush that dammed up an arroyo and flooded miles of land in the district so I know its at least 1974 or older, it still has the same forest service sticker on it in the same place, just painted over now, so I know its the same machine. I will report back Saturday night after I go out again with a fine tooth comb to try and find something to identify the machine. I cant tell you how much i appreciate your help with places to look.
Hey NBLACKBETTY That's a good looking machine. There is a lot of work ahead of you for sure. One thing I can help you with is there should be a serial number on the machine stamped on the frame under the radiator support. If you remove the grill and look on the left side frame.
that 780ck service manual still floating around i got emailed one now i cant find it, help
Going to look for the serial number again today, thank you all for your suggestions on other places to look. Got a quick question though. I need some new front lug nuts to get it moved. Any idea where to find some? I checked broken tractor already and they have nothing listed for the 780.
Should be able to source off size and thread pitch there probably 1/2 fine thread
Any tractor parts place should have or be able to get them. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
The CNH dealer near me has a huge assortment of lug bolts and nuts on his shelves. If you can't find that particular bolt, a stud and nut can be used in its place
most of that sort of stuff is going to be standard ag stuff, you could probably borrow off a junk tractor if you wanted to. 9/16 NF probably, don't remember what the thread count is but it's standard. Since you're looking to replace stuff rather than rebuild, it's a good thing you got a case. A 580 would have made your job a whole lot easier, 780's are a little more rare, aren't they? I know if you were doing a Deere or Cat, a lot more stuff would be NLA, and you wouldn't want to pay the price even if they had it. Case has far more aftermarket support. Not that I would suggest your project. The cab won't be any help that I've seen, the cab tags will be a generic certification for the models they fit, not an ID.
@Delmer Interesting you commented on parts for CAT to be hard to get. I have a CAT 426 that I have been fixing. I have not really found parts to be an issue. About the only thing this is discontinued is ROPS frame parts. I even commented to the CAT dealer how I was surprised at how easy it was to get parts.
All I can say I have had way better times getting both deere and cat parts then case/new holland by a whole lot.
No you are not “way off base”. You are 100% correct. Take photos of the connecting rods on the crankshaft so you don’t put them on wrong on reassembly. I like to stamp an arrow on the rod caps Same is true with the pistons if you replace them. Especially that they are not put on the con rods backwards.
It wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong. I'll stand by there's more aftermarket stuff for Case, and a 580 will have better parts support than a 780. I haven't been impressed with older JD BACKHOE parts availability. Really don't know Cat or Case enough to compare though, just going by what I read on here.
Aftermarket, I can't comment on. I prefer factory parts. My 40 years in the car business have proven that aftermarket parts are generally inferior. Not always but typically.
Well, I have went over every square inch of the machine with a fine tooth comb. No serial to be found anywhere. I'm pretty sure it was the tag that got painted over under the hydraulic mount by the door. I did however find a piece of paper that appears to be a service record, it's very faded, but from what I can tell, it says it's a 1972 780. Is the year and model enough to get a service manual / parts lists / etc. ? Also is the year and model enough info to order an engine rebuild / overhaul kit? Thanks all of you!
Have you tried cleaning of the painted over badge? Maybe someone put masking tape over it? Goof off or goo gone might work. You could test something on a different spot until you find something to take off the paint then do the badge.
Here is a link to the online parts book ——> CASE CONSTRUCTION KING LOADER BACKHOE | CASE Construction | MyCNH US Store www.mycnhistore.com Aftermarket parts for your 336 engine are readily available all over the internet.
Thanks! That will be a huge help.
Had a late night and early morning and can't stop thinking about the age of the machine and how much longer engine parts will be available. Does anyone know if there is a more modern engine that could be swapped in place of the 336 BDT without a ton of customization? I know some customization will be required, but don't want to go nuts.
The engine is rarely a deciding factor in backhoes, you could probably find another engine in a junk tractor easy enough, maybe not for $500, but they're not rare. Engine parts don't go bad or change as often as other parts that may need some creative customization.
Case put them in thousands of construction machines and ag tractors. you should have no trouble locating a used running engine if you go that route. A 301BDT is nearly the same motor. With fewer cubes. if your crankshaft is salvageable you have very routine major overhaul.
Thanks, Been doing some research, Google, YouTube, etc. To see if I could find some good major overhaul videos, not really anything out there. Also been looking at overhaul kits, found several for the non turbo that are complete kits, rods, pistons, pins, bearings, sleeves, gaskets etc. But have yet to find a "strip it down to the block" kit for the turbo version.
It took about half a minute to find Abilene Machine. There were others in my search. Abilene Machine is a good company. I have bought from them myself. Overhaul Kit, A336BDT Engine, Diesel Case® Industrial/Construction - 780CK 4 Cylinder Engine with 4.625" Bore, 5.000" Stroke, 5.094" Fire Dam, 5.387" Counterbore, 1.800" Piston Pin, 5.374" Overall Liner Flange Diameter, Keystone Compression Rings Includes:- Cylinder Kits- Rod Bearings- Main Bearings- Front and Rear Crankshaft... www.abilenemachine.com
I have too and they are reliable to use. Seem to be nice folks to get advice from also if purchasing parts.
I've seen their kit, I was looking for something with rods as well. I guess I'll have to start with a basic overhaul kit, then buy rods, injectors, and all the rest separately.
You need to break the existing apart and measure it up to order what you need rather than purchase wholesale. Many of these "kits" will be assembled but once built are not returnable. I suggest you extract the engine, break it apart, and have a competent machinist examine and measure it up before going much further. Seen more than one party purchase cheap with a blown engine and go the expense to fix this problem only to find other issues making the effort futile. That tractor looks good from appearance but may have underlying problems besides the engine. Probably should get a good overall picture before putting a lot into it.
I've had the opposite experience buying with blow engines. The 10 or 15 machines I've bought (with the exemption of a ir p250 air compressor) everything else was just fine. The question lays was it Parkes up because of the engine or is the engine trouble resulting of being parked. The compressor someone rebuild the engine and as far as I can tell put the balance shafts in out of time. And the trashed the input bearings in the compressor it's self costing me 2 couplings and as we speak I'm putting it back together after rebuilding the replacement engine.
First thing I'd do it ensure that engine will rotate. If it does then attempt to start it. Regardless, I'd drop that oil pan and pressurize the cooling system to 20psi looking for leaks to start off with. I've only read the indication there is water in the oil. No direction to where this originates so could be as simple as an oil cooler, or a leaking liner whether a seal, or a cavitated liner. No need putting the cart before the horse planning on a rebuild or exchange right off as too many unknowns at this time. FWIW of course.
Why do you think it needs to have the rods replaced ? Most fuel injection pump rebuilders will test injectors for free in my area. Water in the oil could be from a simple head gasket failure.
The rods are probably fine, as I'm sure half the parts I will be replacing in the engine will be, but the same as I do when I have done the old diesel trucks, as long as I have it apart, I will replace what I can to avoid tearing apart again in the future. I have bought remanufactured engines before and had rods, cams, etc go within 10,000 miles. I bought this on a whim, as a challenge, and as a learning experience. I've always wanted to restore and customize old heavy equipment, but always had a diesel truck project in the shop, this landed in my lap for dirt cheap, and I had the room. I really want to tear the whole thing down to nuts and bolts, sand blast, re paint, modernized the cab, and give the machine another 50 years of life. I may never have a chance to do a project like this in my life again. For $7,000 I could just drop a new engine in it and go, the biggest part of this journey for me is the knowledge and learning, if it ran, I would still probably tear it down and rebuild and customize it. We have 3 working backhoes at the ranch already. They don't even make backhoes this big any more that I know of, at 26,000 lbs, your talking excavator this day in age. Beyond that, I don't know what it is about it, but I just find it to be a sexy machine
Cat still is making the 450 backhoe @29321 pounds. There's a reason there's not many. For one that they are heavy
Look I get that you are stubborn and see this as some challenge, but seriously. Don't treat this like a mountain. Don't climb it " because it is there". If you don't have a specific set of goals to achieve, just a nebulous " that would be neat" idea for it, think about your first post. You are in the desert and sand. That heavy 2wd mother is going to be a boat anchor once it leaves the hard pack. You asked about tracks. How about a better machine for the conditions? Perhaps an excavator? or a lighter 4wd hoe? I looked at your numbered list and it led me right to #8
Thanks for sharing that, I just checked it out, another sexy big machine.
I always though I needed one but I certainly do not
I can confidently say that you will never find new connecting rods for it. The same goes for the timing gears. Crankshaft, probably. I bought a new camshaft from Abilene machine for my 301. If you do reassemble it, I would advise you to put the exhaust manifold on the two and torque the bolts BEFORE you tighten the head bolts. If you don't do that, the manifold may break when it gets hot because the heads are not in perfect alignment with each other.
You need to get that engine apart and see what you have before you suffer through any more sleepless nights. No big deal to pull it apart in the tractor, it'll just make it that much lighter if the block has to come out. As far as the rods, I don't think I've ever heard of rods being an issue in any of these Case engines unless a rod bearing fails. They should be checked for straightness, big end checked, new wrist pin bushings maybe.
If you are operating in soft sandy soil you probably will find that tractor a hindrance to operate with a full bucket. If the front wheels sink or encounter high rolling resistance, the one rear wheel will slip easily. That was a problem with mine and I had the larger 17.5" tires on the steer axle. Couldn't much use it after a rain as you'd be shoving the tractor around with the stick or uncurling the bucket to keep moving. It was just too heavy for practical use IMO. That however in fairness could have been because of the extra weight of the X-hoe on the back. It was an animal when dry and digging however.
This moreless sums up why you see the big backhoes on road jobs hard surfaces to drive on a payloads to load trucks and could hang a sizeable hammer of the back
Thanks for the tip!
That makes sense to me. I sold that 780CK to purchase a 1986 580 "Super E" 4X4 tractor that ran well and the guy backed out afterward on the sale. I think he still has that tractor so can't fault him about it as he was partial. I wound up purchasing a 410B Deere that was very smooth and comfortable to me and my first go round with "Wobble Sticks" for controls. Don't know if I'd ever go back to Case controls after that although my Clark has them but I've not used the machine. IIRC the main hydraulic pump on that 780CK was 78GPM and the loader cyclical rate was quite fast so loading my dump truck was easy. It was so big it had no problem loading concrete breakout to backfill washouts on bordering properties for farmers.
I've been chatting with a friend who builds custom tracks for anything that has wheels. No final decision has been made yet, but he said it would be around $8,000 for him to put tracks on the rear of it in place of tires which would give it several times the traction as well as better weight distribution. My thought was to run it as is, see how it handles out here in the desert, then make a decision.
I liked the weight and performance of the machine when it was dry. It would perform very well and was basically a rubber tired excavator. However driving it down the road with the imbalance that was part of the machine was almost unsafe. It may not apply to you but it wasn't worth starting the engine to push an inch of snow the traction was so bad. You could however pick up and carry an eight foot long section of concrete sidewalk without ever increasing engine speed above low idle. It was very powerful. Ripping tree roots could be done at 1200 engine rpm with sharp edges on a single pull. I did many to build my shop.
https://www.agkits.com/case-336bdt-504bdt-diesel-connecting-rod-a58579r.aspx?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wZNwJk7bCuS-QC7Uh8B1UOXiar14lzv-7zAjIQ4o9Vx2SDlQyKkTaEaApy7EALw_wcB Found the rods online from a few vendors, also found only 1 place to get the timing gear after calling them, con equip has them for the A336 BDT. Found gages, cables and sending units from yesterday's tractors, new hydraulic cylinders from case directly. Was pretty lucky yesterday when I started calling vendors. Still on the hunt for a new turbo, radiator, front rims ( they are dented and bent), and some oddball parts, not to say they will be hard to find, just been busy looking for other parts. Today is the day the machine is supposed to come home, maybe my wife won't notice it I think the hard stuff is going to be finding a hood, or making one, this one is missing. Also after I do paint and body, I want to replace the glass with lexan or some other non glass option, every window in the machine is cracked. Lastly I want to get a custom seat in it with some suspension, I have an old, tired, worn out back and the factory seat looks to leave a lot to be desired and mine is torn down to bare metal. Still have yet to get service manuals for the machine, but that's on the list for this weekend. This forum has been a great resource as well, I found a lot of answers and resources in old threads, although some of them are outdated now.... what ever happened to e-backhoe parts? Once I start tearing into the machine I think I am going to start a new thread to document the whole process and share what I find and all the steps.
So as a matter of opinion, if the money wasn't an issue, and the machine was never going to leave a ranch operation in the desert, if it were your machine would you just bite the bullet and put tracks on the rear?
No. I think you would be much better suited with an "E" or later series 580 Case myself with 4X4 which is much more rounded. That however is just my opinion. The780CK fit a market at that time but that time has passed with other machines replacing it's dominancy. Now those machines too are aging and becoming affordable to the novice. Not to be negative at all and you made purchase cheap, I fully understand that. However at this point you have the horse several reign lengths behind the cart and that needs corrected. First thing to do, (again, my opinion) is to ensure that engine will rotate. If it does, check the oil for water fouling by pulling the drain plug and looking. If water, or coolant is found, drop the oil pan and fill the cooling system with a mixture of used but clean coolant, or simply water and an iridescent dye marketed for the purpose. Pressurize the cooling system to 20 psi and from under the tractor look for the leak into the oil pan with a bright UV lamp and the leak will reveal itself readily if one exists. Then address this leak if found. I feel you need to get onto a systematic approach to making a repair. Again my opinion worth what's paid but you are not on the correct path and I mean nothing negative there. Start by breaking the problem into blocks and find what goes in but doesn't go out, (figuratively). Right now you know as much about that tractor as I do and many on here would like to help you find resolution but you need to align with what is needed done. Again, just my opinions and I mean nothing negative at all. You've got some good intellect willing to help you but only you can listen. I hope that doesn't sound caustic as not meant to be. Thanks,
No argument here, you are 100% correct in your logic for almost every situation. There is 100% water in the pan, and a lot of it, which will need to be addressed for sure. I think what's missing here is that even if the machine ran fine, I would still tear it down to nuts and bolts and rebuild it. I'm not just trying to fix what was broken, although as it is broken that's part of it. I am a life long learner, done dozens of diesel trucks, full restoration and customization. I've always had an itch to do a heavy machine or two but always had a truck to work on. This just happened to fall in my lap as I drove my latest truck project out of the shop after a year long tear down and rebuild. I will take your advice on finding the leak, it's important to know the where and why. But I am still going to tear the engine out and rebuild it with every new part I can find just for the experience. I find it soothing and relaxing. I'm going to go through the whole machine the same way, may even custom fit an A/C unit, stereo, etc into it. I have some friends who are mechanical engineers and they like to hang out around my projects, I might as well get some use out of it beyond them just drinking my scotch and hiding from their wives.
Why would you do that? Nothing in this thread is out of line, keep it all in one place.
I was thinking because this thread will be 5 or 6 pages in before i even get to the documenting and this has been more a Q & A thread
If you are serious about this venture, this thread will probably turn into 50 pages. If you and us are lucky, lol. You have 29 posts. Nige has over 25,000.
Challenge accepted! I'm new here, and not part of many forums. The diesel truck forums I am a member of usually want the q&a thread separate than the build thread. I've always found it a bit confusing and would be happy to keep going here. In other news, the guy I hired to move it showed up in a 1 ton truck with a trailer rated for 16,000 lbs. Not exactly what I expected to move a 26,000lb machine. The truck was smoking all 17 miles and the trailer has a good bend in it now, but I did warn him. I wouldn't have done it to my equipment. I guess it's home now, that's what matters.
We are a special breed here, we prefer all the madness and sadness in one place. Plus, if you have two treads going, some other gumshoe will probably spike the old one with some meaningless drivel, and then Tinkerer will respond to that and away we go down a useless rabbithole. Better to keep it all localized. JMHO.
Pretty insane to overload a trailer by 10,000lbs. It's probably beyond repair if it bent. Have never seen Tinkerer post anything that wasn't helpful. He see's a post and if he can help he does. Can't fault him for that. Lots of posts aren't technically in the right forum.
I think you are doing a disservice to yourself with this attitude of replacing everything regardless. You need to tear everything down, clean and inspect what you have, and use everything that is still good. These days ‘new’ parts are often worse quality than the 50yr old OEM part with thousands of hours on it.
Nice. Evidently I need to end my time here. I never meant to take anyone’s thread down a “useless rabbit hole”
I wasn't in any way referring negatively to a response by Tinkerer. I was just describing a situation that seems to happen when there are multiple threads by someone on the same machine. A new poster shows up, and then we have a page of sometimes useful, most times not info in the middle of someone else's project. Then, since THAT thread is at the top, all the sudden the OP is asking questions and getting answers there, instead of the main line. Pretty soon the other one pops back up, and all the sudden nobody knows which one they posted in, which one is the one they should be using, etc. Tinkerer, if you took my comment the wrong way, I apologize. That wasn't my intention.
Sorry, probably bad choice of words. Your information is definitely not going down a rabbit hole. Sometimes when someone has multiple threads about the same machine, a big discussion starts up on an older one, and then guys get confused on which one they were replying on. It just makes it simpler to keep all the discussion in one place. Sorry
Back to the engine, make sure you find the source of the coolant in the crankcase before you order any parts. The worst case senario is the block or head could be cracked and then you may have to re-evaluate the direction of the project. The road to hell is paved with ‘good deals’ but then again, i have been accused of being a pessimist on more than one occasion.
I think MG84 makes a very good point about the quality or “lack of” regarding many of the new parts….
Aftermarket tractor parts suppliers all over the Internet: "Will fit-" followed by dozens of different makes and models. A friend of mine doesn't refer to them as aftermarket parts, he calls them will fit parts. I'm looking forward to watching this project.
Lord no, you have been sooo helpful. Finding your replies In older posts you replied to had saved me from having to ask a lot of repeat questions that were already answered on this forum. Don't let one bad remark drive you away.
Not just the trailer, that truck was bottomed out on suspension, and smoking the whole way. I bet the rear differential is due for some new fluid after that. Glad it wasn't my rig, that's all I can say.
The truck and trailer are probably both toast. Unless you paid him way too much he shouldn't have taken the job. Way more damage than what he made.
Nope, only paid him $300 to move it 17 miles. I told him when he come to look at it before the move that it was 26k lbs or more, he said "not a problem". I warned him when he showed up in that rig that there is no way that's going to work, he argued he's been doing this for 30 years and his deere 410 backhoe he brought to help load it weighed more, went to deeres website and showed him that his machine was less than 16k lbs. He again said there is no way our 780 weighed that much, I showed him the gvw tags at 26,000 lbs he again argued, I said let me just give you $50 for the trouble and I'll find someone else. He again argued he's done this 30 years and knows better. Finally I gave up and said " okay, I'll be waiting on the other end with your $300 if you make it" Drug the machine onto our scale this morning out of curiosity. 29,813lbs. I didn't notice it before but all the steel on the back and top of the bucket isn't factory, they welded it there for weight. Safe to say the haul rig is likely toast.
I would bet the guy didn't want to admit defeat. I would also bet he's kicking himself for being so stupid. Did the machine run and drive? Maybe I'm forgetting but why not just drive it the 17 miles home?
Machine has engine problems, wouldn't start. Water in oil. And yeah, stupid is right. Ego's are expensive to have.
Alright guys, first question of the rebuild phase. Wanting to drain the fuel out of the machine. Crawled around and didn't see a plug. I know I can siphon it out, but it has a full tank, and it's been sitting 25 years. I really want to flush it out very thoroughly. I dropped a magnet in it and there is a lot of debris and it needs cleaned out. I haven't been able to get my hands on a full service manual for the 780 yet so no joy there. Any ideas? Doesn't look like removal of the tank is easily possible.
We have a fun thread called "overload of the day" for making fun of guys like him. If you have any better pictures of it on his trailer that would be a nice addition to that thread!
Better, I have video. Can we upload or embed that here?
Upload to youtube and then paste the share link in the text field here. No special handling, the site takes care of the rest.
Awesome, thanks! Still looking for ideas on draining the fuel tank from a few posts up if anyone has ideas.
I'd be very surprised if there is no tank sump point or drain. Keep looking. I have a vac extractor that I use for everything under the sun, but there aughta be a sump point.
Thanks for the encouragement. It wouldn't make sense to me if there isn't, but I look hard. Was hoping someone either knew where else to look, or had a good idea. It really does need to be flushed out some how. I'm used to restoration of old diesel trucks where I can just take the tank out and flip it over, not looking like that's going to work here.
you'd think they would rust through without an easy drain. Hard to keep the water out completely.
That was my thought. I've been looking for the manuals online, service, parts, operators. But everything I find is for CK's and the case dealer is telling me that's not the same machine. If I can't find a plug, or a better idea, I may just drill it, flush the heck out of it, fill is with inert gas, and weld a drain plug into it. That seems a little drastic though so I am hoping for a better option.
I wouldn't drill a hole in it and hope you could get a leak free weld especially with the tank on the machine. You probably have to take some stuff off, maybe a lot of stuff. It's not going to be a simple job getting this machine fixed and running. I'm sure you're going to be using a lot of choice curse words. That's why a lot of people don't do restorations on old machines left for dead.
Shimmy, thanks for explaining what you meant. No problem , No worries. NMBlackBetty; your 780 is a CK =——>780CK. There should be a petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank. if there isn’t remove the fuel line from the shut off valve on the bottom of the tank and remove the valve. You can avoid a fuel bath by hooking a shop vac onto the fuel filler tube. here is link to the Construction King section of the Case on-line parts book. Parts Catalog for CASE CE Light Equipment - Loader Backhoes CONSTRUCTION KING Find technical drawings, OEM part fitment and assembly guides for Case CE Light Equipment - Loader Backhoes CONSTRUCTION KING www.mycnhistore.com
that shop vac trick works all over, thanks for posting that @Tinkerer I did that when pulling the boom and also the rotek bearing change on the excavator. Pull a little vacuum and there is no rush capping the lines.
Thanks! When the sun comes up I'll go give it a try. Plan is to drain it out, filter it, then use a transfer pump to spray it back through the tank until debris stop coming out.
Another option on the fuel tank would be to make one of @willie59 famous 'suck bucket'. There is an entire thread on this handy shop helper somewhere in the forums. Basically a spare 5 gallon bucket with lid that has a pour spout. Get some vinyl tubing, drill a tight hole through lid for vinyl tube to squeeze through. Apply vacuum via shop vac to pour spout, insert vinyl tube into whatever needs sucking up. Quit extracting fluid before suck bucket gets close to filling so it never goes into your shop vacuum. I read about it here some years ago. I've used it to suck out hydraulic tanks, fuel tanks, etc where there was no drain point, or where the drain was blocked up due to debris in the tank. The advantage is also being able to suck out a fair amount of chunks in the process and start work on the cleaning process. I used ⅝" tubing and inserted a piece of ½" copper tube in the end for a wand that can be forced around and do some light scraping.
His truck is going to be on the road, both before and long after this backhoe is. (He drove home and is probably puttering to breakfast in it right now). Was it dumb to haul your backhoe- sure was. But so is trying to put this backhoe back together. If this backhoe was 20 years newer with minor problems, and a more popular model, I'd be all for spending the $$$ to put it back together. But you're going to spend the same amount of money and time putting this back together, as you would fixing a good machine. But I suppose its a better and cheaper hobby than hookers and coke, so by all means have at it. But I don't think I'd be so excited at pointing fingers, over other peoples blind spots in decision making. Because this backhoe's got dumb written all over it.
Don't be so hard on NMB. He said earlier in his thread that he is restoring the 780, not because he needs a T/L/B. But because his hobby is restoring what other people call junk. He said that he already has 2 or 3 in running order.
We all have hobbies. If his hobby is tearing down and rebuilding trucks, equipment, whatever than so be it. Is it smart money, of course not but I am sure he already knows that. In a past life I restored several muscle cars. I found pleasure in hunting down parts, almost more than actually working on it. I like watching other people do these projects so I look forward to progress posts.
It's kinda like Ford N series tractors. People spend several thousand bucks to restore them and they still aren't worth much or all that useful when they're done. But they enjoyed the project so it was worthwhile to them.
I hope this negativity doesn't discourage the OP in any way as the view is not equally shared amongst the masses. Doesn't really matter if one supports the endeavor or not as they are not financially contributing to the cause. The OP has only asked for advice and guidance at this time that I read into the posts. Obviously serious in the preliminary interest as expended the funds to move the machine to another local to make it easier to work with, or on. The way it was moved? Certainly not what I would have done. Given common sense not being so common any longer apparently applied, the contract trucker has to deal with the final outcome, or damage incurred to his equipment. Going to be an interesting project to watch unfold as I had basically the same machine. It was a powerhouse but didn't fit my needs upon project completion so was sold.
I for one am looking forward to the "overload of the week" video. It is all part of the user experience of this backhoe.
Whoa nellie. I ain't the voice of dismay and gloom here. I'm just going for a splash of sanity. A sunbeam ray of reality if you will. So far I've read tales of repowering, rear axle removal/replacement because we want a locker, numerous custom suspension seat options, and now we're up to tracks. If we put rockets on this bitch we could launch satellites. What we are going to end up with is a 2wd heavy ass backhoe, in the sands of new mexico. There's a reason it got parked in the weeds 20 years ago, and its not only related to the engine issues. If it was grandpa's backhoe that saved the family from starving in 1962, sure, its got memories burned into the iron. But I'm looking at a minimum of $10-15,000 in hoses, cylinders, engine work and tires, Party on.
And we'll have the next five years to watch from the sidelines. Should be fun.
Whether or not it gets back to working condition is yet to be determined. Who knows why it was parked but the engine being the problem seems to be the most likely. The OP has it home where he can better evaluate what all it would need to get it back in working order. Maybe the only major thing it needs is the engine rebuilt. Hoses and cylinder seals, etc. would likely need attention on any older backhoe or any hyd. machine for that matter so that's a wash. There's no way to know what all it needs without looking deeper into it. Then the OP can decide if he wants to proceed. It's a big machine which could explain why it wasn't as popular as 580 size backhoes. Dynahoe and others had some big heavy 2 wheel drive models as well. They were the preferred machines back in the day for tough conditions. A 780CK could be great for digging stumps or lifting heavy loads. A backhoe loader is a very versatile machine for a variety of things.
I have a 780CK .It has cost me about 1500 in hydraulic hoses and another 1000 for a radiator.I did the brakes and cleaned up the air chambers but i need a new mount for the compessor.I did some work with it and am now considering a rebuild on top end at least cause shes blowing white smoke.Also the hydraulic fluid is leaking into the tranny and going out the breather hole on top side of trans.If you need info i could help probably help but i know that Tinkerer is a good guy and has helped me.Good luck
Amazing idea! Thanks for sharing.
And this is a perfect example of what happens when someone walks in on the middle of a conversation and has no context for what's actually going on. Glad to see this forum isn't immune, I see it everywhere when conversing in this format.
"Smart money, of course not" Amen man. I'm $130,000usd into a 2006 ford F350 extended cab long bed over my last "hobby build". I could have bought a 2024 F450 platinum with every option for 3/4 or less the money. But Damn is that 06 fun to drive and lord does it drop jaws when people look under the hood and under the truck.
Yeah, c'mon C.O. What are you thinking, smarting off like this******************
Well at least I can cover the hoses, cylinders, engine work and tires. Should be a great party. Drinks are on me for anyone who wants to come get covered in ancient grease and hydraulic fluid.
I may take you up on your offer. We pressure tested the coolant system today, 99% it had a cracked sleeve and blown head gasket. Never the less, still ordering pretty much everything to rebuild top to bottom, was on the fence about the rods, but one has a very tiny stress fracure that I could see. Done playing for the weekend, but am going to start a total disassembly next weekend. Positive I'm going to regret it, and certain my wallet will vomit by the time I get it torn down, but life is short, and I can use it to dig my grave into the next life.
OK, you have money burning a hole in your pocket. Not all of us do for various reasons so don't need you flaunting it.
I think there was a bit of "lost in translation" there. The point wasn't to "flaunt" money. It was to settle down an armchair warrior. It's easy for people to sit behind a screen and act foolish, say foolish things or be ignorant or rude. Because they are sitting in an armchair behind a screen there are no real world consequences for their behavior. The best way to deal with them is to nullify their behaviors. In this case making thoughtless comments on a thread that he hasn't even read enough of to understand the context of the rebuild. Stating numbers like $10-$15k to try and justify in his mind why his opinion is valid....... the fastest way to nullify that state of illogic Is to make a point that $15k is literally my pocket change. Not to flaunt it, but as the fastest path to ending the ignorance. Far faster than trying to argue with an armchair warrior. I apologize if I somehow offended you. That wasn't my intent. You've been very helpful on this thread and I was just trying to shut down the clown show before it overtook the thread
That sounds like a terrific project!!! I myself HATE to see older machines that still look decent being scrapped. I know next to nothing to mechanic but if you restored that many old trucks, i am very confident you'll be able to do something with that machine. Good luck and keep us updated. Max.
A lot of people would question and do fixing up older machines. In most cases it's meant as a warning that it could cost a lot more than the machine is worth in most cases. It might have been better to just take it that someone thought you might be better off looking at a different machine to fix up instead of putting a lot of money into a 780. Would be great to see it brought back to life too.
There are a lot of those other older machines. In my eyes the 780 is a rarity. They are big, too big to be practical any more, a 2wd loader is pretty much a useless tool, there is next to no reason to restore one. Hence the appeal to me. If I do this one right, make it something special, maybe modernized it a bit, make it a little more practical, I bet you it will be one of the last 780's to meet the torch and end up at the scrap yard. It's a lot like the ford mustang GT-M. Under powered with its tiny 289, lacking in any interior comforts, drives like a tank, pretty much an insult to ford to even call it a mustang. You would be hard pressed to find anyone restoring one, but if a guy did, another 50 years from now you would have an ultra rare vehicle.
Yep. Exactly the way I figured this thread would go based on previous comments...
Comparing a classic Mustang to a 780 is a big stretch. I think there's just a lot of negative propaganda regarding 2 wheel drive backhoes. On firm ground they are just fine. A 780 will do a lot more work than a 580 if you're comparing digging and loading. I did a job where a 780C was brought in to dig up some marshy ground beside a big pond. The backhoe bucket was probably 3 times more capacity than a 580 and it had a lot more reach. It was a productive machine. If it's that muddy or soft you probably wouldn't want anything rubber tired in there, 4x4 or not. Not unlike a skid steer. They are great at many tasks but if's muddy and slimy they are almost useless. There used to be 2 wheel drive loaders like the MF11 that were perfectly capable if the ground was firm. If there weren't mini and midi excavators I think you'd see more big backhoes. They have their place. A lot of people don't think track loaders have much use anymore but there are some that hold them in high regard like CM on this forum. Just because a machine isn't the best in soft and muddy conditions isn't a reason to dismiss it as not usable.
Yeah. Ultimately it's his money so if he wants to spend a big chunk on what others wouldn't that's his choice. Not really that different than guys spending a fortune on classic cars. I'm not sure the ratio but I'd guess over 50% would never get their money back out of it. I don't have that kind of money to even consider it let alone not be worried if I lost it.
Well if your weather hadn't made a appearance on our doorstep, I've got other things to do. I should know better. Instead here we are...... Anyways, to the original poster, I hope this project goes well for you.
Can we see some pictures? I’d like to see one of the rod with the stress fracture
I kind of find that comment interesting also. Clear, and concise photos would be nice to follow along closely with. Not doubting anything as the post of a "stress fracture" is probably a different aspect than what I would call it.
Pictures would be nice to follow along with this project.
Lets see---times have changed, there was this dink who built a custom-one of a kind, at the time no one really cared. See he still hadn't removed all his boomer tendency's of building stufff. Would he do it today probably not--he was 60 then still had some ambition, that's long gone now. Was it worth doing-well at the time for him yes it was. * J.G. Wentworth--It's your money waste it the way you want. I think that's what that ad said. After one is done with a finished project their attitudes change about why they did what they did---in the end everyone will have forgotten about it, it just becomes a piece of personal history & no one will really care, it's the same in death for most. * Carry on with your hoe. 1960 B75 Mack Figured I may as well start a thread on that old dog. For starters I'm collecting some parts and pieces, two long front drive shafts, air ride suspension, gear box, going to install a HFB64055 power steering box from a R model. And I disassembled the butterfly hood and my friend at the machine... HeavyEquipmentForums My Last One-Finished After two and a half years it's finally done. Many hours of work and aggravation went into this Mack. But it was something I had to do-My Last One. Would I do it over again? I can't answer that right now. Was it worth it? Yeah it was worth it to me. Did I learn anything along the way? Of coarse... HeavyEquipmentForums Mack-Phase Two New thread because the other became cluttered. The rails arrived Wednesday the 30th in at 4:00 pm. And so far the engine bay is cut in both rails and 98 holes drilled with a Hougen Mag drill. The rails were perfectly formed-right on the money each 30'... HeavyEquipmentForums
I was mildly interested in a thread where someone would resurrect an old iron, knowing it was stupid and basically useless. This above is just being arrogant and stupid. Those who have to flaunt it, ain’t really got it. I‘m out.
While I'd love to document the process of fixing up this old machine in hopes it may help others along the way or provide some entertainment, I'm old, and I've already raised my kids. Dealing with a bunch of other people's kids on an internet forum while doing my first heavy machinery rebuild has already proven to be more trouble than its worth. I'm a relaxed and fun loving old guy. Yeah I've got some money, I've worked hard my whole life for it, what good is money if you can't do stupid things that you never thought you would be able to do with it. It's entertainment. It's no different than the younger folk blowing money to go to a Taylor Swift concert. To me it's insane, to them, it's the best night of their life at the time. I feel bad for all of you that either weren't raised with, or have forgotten what a sense of decency or respect is. Entire generations raised behind screens forgetting that on the other side of those screens are other real human beings. Truth is, it's my money, my project, my entertainment and what I find fun. If I wanted to turn a skidsteer into a flying purple battle tank because it would entertain me, it's my prerogative. In the end, I think it's time I let this thread die and move on. I got the help I needed and made a few connections with people who can help me in the future if I do get stuck. In my short time here I have found a forum with a young crowd who know nothing about life, an old crowd who take life way too seriously, and a handful of the most genuine and helpful people I have ever found online. For the helpful of you, thanks for the assistance! I have your phone numbers, or email's, or know how to reach you in private on here if I get stuck along this fun and entertaining journey. For the rest of you...... The meaning and purpose of life, is to live it, so stop taking it so seriously and live already. I hope some day you figure it out. signing off -NMblackbetty
I respect your stance although don't entirely agree with your analogy. Never like seeing a thread "go south" but there have been some outlandish claims many don't feel are based upon reality leading to the thread's demise. Hopefully you will return to post photos of your progress as it's "all good" with me. I liked that series of machine very well but was just too big and heavy to be of any practical use. Maybe on a "ranch" you will be able to find consistent use of it once usable, but only you can make that determination. I wish you luck in your endeavor.
It is a shame that NMBB was driven away. His project would have helped a lot people that needed help would have read about the restoration of his 780. He said early on that he didn't have much interest in using it after it was restored. I would bet it will be a meticulous restoration. The picture of his truck showed me his capabilities. The ruthless criticism of the feller that moved the machine caught my attention also. I don't know the reason he did it - never will. Maybe he desperately needed some quick cash or had some other reason.
Sorry to hear that sounded like a fun project, was looking forward to pictures, anyway good luc!
While it may be a shame that left, I didn’t see anyone driving him, he did that all himself. As to his last post, I call bullcrappy. Most of the people that interact on here are hard working, respectful people who are quite decent and helpful. I didn’t see any keyboard warriors, I saw people trying to offer advice and help. His last paragraph, pertaining to young people that know nothing of life and old people who have given up and waiting to die pisses me off but he was correct in assuming intentions and abilities and work ethic, I’m sure. Anyone has the freedom to do whatever they want here but make no mistake, judging people from a keyboard is a slippery slope. I was interested in this thread and was hoping for it to be like the Cat 426 thread, EPIC. I wish it has gone differently but if his perseverance on his machine is like his participation in this thread, best of luck as it will be a long road.
He mentioned that he thinks this forum is younger guys that haven't lived but if you read his last few posts, he's the one the acting childish. Nothing posted was a personal attack. It was just different opinions where some were suggesting it might be an expensive endeavor. He took it way too personally. Flashing how much money he has is kind of arrogant. If nobody had differences of opinion, the forum would be a lot smaller. The perceived negative comments were only trying to save him money. Nobody questioned his skills.
is he wasting money? of course? He knows it too. Are there better machines? Probably, I am far from knowledgable on that front. He is not after a machine tower, just a project. I have found nothing but good guys here who have amazing knowledge, access to info and great advice. What I have found with forums, email or any communication where you do not hear and/or see the person is tone does not come through. I read the posts and I sensed a bit or sarcasm and also it was advice based on opinion. Nobody meant to drive him away. Posting a picture of money was kind of strange. I hope he decides to lurk and will post some pictures of his progress. I was looking forward to that.
Hello, just curious if you are still working your 780 project?
Hi Matt, I finished it up about 4 months ago, had a great time doing it. It was a CRAZY machine! I couldn't believe how much earth it could move and that rear stick was like having an excavator. We ended up doing a full factory restoration with a few add ons, put a radio in, aftermarket seat with springs, hard surfaced both buckets, and put a lot of steel on it to help with traction. About a month ago we hired a contractor to come bulldoze some stuff for us and when he saw it, he had to have it. I told him it wasn't for sale, then he gave me a number. NEVER did I intend to make money on the restoration, or even sell it, but I made out like a bandit. Ended up buying a john deere 410, and another Cat D3B with the money. The 410 only took a week to fix. The D3b will probably take me a year as I want to do another full on, ground up restoration with it.
Nice!!! About 2 yrs ago I picked up a 1985 780B. As I have 2 acre lot with plans.. it is a running machine and was able to get familiar with it. Then the gremlins started messing with me. Had an electrical problem.. and as with many projects. Life gets in The way and it sat idle for 2 yrs.. just yesterday… I solved the wire issue.. Charged the battery.. she fired right up. And as I was excited, decided to exercise the muscle memory on the backhoe sticks.. then….!! Ppppfffssssss!!! Blown line on bucket circuit. More gremlins. so now starts the task of replacing all of the back end hoses.. I don’t want to have to deal with this on any other older hoses.. I may start my own thread as I too want to reno this monster… I would much rather work on old (simple) iron..
It’s a shame we missed out on the restoration and adventure. Maybe start another thread and give us a second chance. Pictures would be appreciated. Very rarely does someone even break even on a resto never mind make money. Good job.
Would love to see that restored 780, they were a pretty cool machine.