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Case 850B with water in engine oil.

Peter Flynn · 2022-12-18 23:44

Hi, new to this forum, so I will try to be complete in this initial post. My dozer actually runs great! But starting blowing a lot of steam out somewhere, water was low, filled it up and within 10 minute got oil/water mix blowing out oil fill tube! Crankcase was overfull with gallons of water. Checked the following… not the oil cooler, not the water manifold, pulled heads, no cracks or leaks and good valve seals, no gasket leaks found…. So all I can figure is it must be a cylinder sleeve crack or sleeve seal leak. Q1: Am I missing any other possible cause for a massive water leak? Q2: I would like to pull the oil pan next, but the last 4” is over the dozer crossmember. Can the oil pan be removed in-frame, by dropping front then sliding forward, or do I have to move the engine forward from transmission because the oil pan must drop straight down? I greatly appreciate your help and advice on this!

Replies12
  1. #1Coaldust2022-12-19 00:05

    Water in the basement, that sucks. Before pulling the cylinder head, I like to pressurize the cooling system, with the oil pan removed, to locate the leak. Too late for that. I imagine you will find worm holes in a liner. Or, a crack. Or, a worm hole causing a crack. Maybe the liner o-rings rotted away.

  2. #2Acecadet2022-12-19 04:01

    That oil pump/balancer is really big. It’s right in the middle of the pan. I’m gonna guess that you will not be able to slide it out of the way. Besides I think you will be doing an overhaul on it anyway. May as well bite the bullet and pull it out. Wish I had better news.

  3. #3balls2go2022-12-19 08:39

    I have a TD9H and the pan can be pulled without pulling the engine. Done it more than once.

  4. #4Coy Lancaster2022-12-19 09:05

    You can pull the oil pan on these dozers. You will probably find out that the coolant leak is at the o-rings on the piston sleeves. And when you pull the sleeves you’ll probably find that your block is pitted where o-rings sit.

  5. #5Peter Flynn2022-12-19 19:43

    Thank you all for your quick replies! Based on your sage advice, I will take on this in-frame engine tear down… on the gravel floor of my unheated barn… so it will take a while! I plan to put the heads and water manifold on just to pressure test and confirm our diagnosis, after I drop the oil pan…. Would like to know if it’s just one cylinder or multiple! Any recommendations in sleeve puller tools? There seem to be many out there… regards Pete ps, my Avatar is a pic of my sweet thing… it has been a great hard working machine for many years, so I don’t mind making this investment in her…

  6. #6Tinkerer2022-12-20 08:25

    Welcome to HEF, Peter ! No sleeve puller is needed. Use a hammer and a rod with a blunt end, and use them to pound on the bottom of the sleeve. When the sleeves are seated in the block, the lower end of them protrude beyond bore in the block. Don't go crazy and keep pounding until the rod hits the block.

  7. #7Dave Neubert2022-12-21 09:52
  8. #8Dave Neubert2022-12-21 09:53

    This is what I use

  9. #9Coaldust2022-12-21 13:30

    That’s a nice set up. Me too.

  10. #10Peter Flynn2022-12-21 18:13

    Thanks again! I’ll try the brute force approach first, as I hate to buy an expensive tool I’ll use only once! I’ll keep you all posted on my progress… snow the next few days… which ironically is a good time to work on this, since I can’t do anything else!

  11. #11Acecadet2022-12-21 19:55

    Maybe try this home made idea from this guy. The puller is shown around 31:00. Looks pretty simple and low buck.

  12. #12Peter Flynn2022-12-22 13:20

    Thanks Acecadet! That’s a great video, and along the lines I was thinking for a puller!