Hello all. I'm not new here per-say, but I haven't posted a whole lot. I have an 850c Case dozer, and I'm trying to figure out how to remove the radiator for repair or replacement. I usually use the dozer to level fill dirt in an area of my property, and other leveling/grading jobs. I run the dozer with the engine compartment side panels removed. Well, I wasn't thinking about the side panels and what they do, I was clearing/stripping some brush on in another area of my property earlier. As I was reversing from a pile, a small tree popped up between the track and dozer body, and got shoved through the compartment opening, into the radiator. I now have a nickel to quarter sized hole halfway through the bottom of the core. Any help with removal procedure, or repair insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
No help with removal, but I'd try to solder that in place if there's any kind of access at all. Use real lead solder, it's much "thicker and stickier" than the lead free.
850c removel Like Delmer said, you may be able to pinch off and do the solder thing but it is kind of tight in there. Did it go all the way thru ?. I would back it up on RR ties, remove the hood sweeps if installed, remove the front two belly pans, remove the grill and x bracing, remove the split hood, remove the top plate over the rad. The trans cooler hoses come up from the bottom and you have two mount bolts for the rad that screw out that hold the lower end. There is some other small things that have to come loose. A service truck with air and crane around 2- 2 1/2 hours, hand tools your looking half the day or more. The big thing is the crap that's under the rad and front sections of the belly pan. It not a bad job, just a little harder with the c frame and hoses in the area.
Thanks guys. I got it out. I pulled the grille assembly, x-bracing, headlight assembly, and radiator bolts. I was close enough to the shop to run an air hose out for air tools. I tilted the rad forward, wrapped a strap around it, and lifted it out with my backhoe. Took me about 2- 2.5 hours. Lol. I'm going to take it to a radiator shop tomorrow, see what they have to say. If it's too much, I'll do what you've suggested. Another question though, if you don't mind. Can I use regular antifreeze, or do I have to use the special stuff? Thanks for all of your help.
I would see what the rad shop thinks. A core is pretty pricey, and they may be able to vat it and seal your tubes and pressure check it while you wait. Depending on how many tubes are damaged you may see a little difference in the temp. I would use a premix antifreeze or a 50/50 mix with straight antifreeze and water and adjust as needed for the cooler weather you get up north. 50/50 is good to around -35*. You machine will hold around 11 gallons. Let us know what they do.
Will do. Wasn't sure if I needed that pre-charged, anti-cavitation stuff or not. Thanks a million. It runs pretty cool temp wise. Well, it did anyways lol. I'll let you know what I find out from them.
Well, the guy at the rad shop sort of acted like they didn't want to have anything to do with the radiator. He kept commenting on the size, and saying how they don't have the old pulley systems to lift big rads anymore. He said he'd call me when the actual repair tech has a verdict. He called. Supposedly it's "blocked" (whatever that means), and there's too many things wrong with it for them to repair it. Whatever all that means. Sort of sounded to me like they didn't want to have anything to do with it. Going to take it to a different shop tomorrow, that I know has no problems with repairing big rads. I'd be happy with the tanks being unbolted, blocking off the damaged tubes, and rodding any clogged tubes. I'm not looking for perfect, just functionality.
Took the rad to a different shop today. The repair tech/owner feels very optimistic about being able to seal the leak. He agreed that the other shop didn't want to do the work. He said they haven't really done rad repairs in years. They like to sell new rads and installs. This other guy was working on re-coring a rad from a greyhound bus when I was there. He said a tree branch through a dozer rad is pretty common, he fixes around 5 per month from that. He said the most it'd cost is $250. Since I was quoted $750 for a used one, I'm fine with that.
Started to tell you to carry a extra belt to strap yourself into the chair before he gave you a price. $250 is not bad to patch one up, I replaced one in the chevy 3 months ago and it was close to that. Hope it works out for you.
Haha! I wish it were less expensive, but I'd much rather give $250 to patch this one, than buy a used one for $750,and drive 2 hours to get it. He called earlier today, and said that it's done. Patched up, pressure tested, and holding. Now to install, and field test it. Oh, and replace the blown out rad in my chevy that I patched up with stop leak. Going used with that one, a friend has one I can have. I'll let you know how the dozer rad works out. Calling for rain the next couple of days, so it may be a few before I get back. Thanks again!
Forgot to mention what he did to seal the leak. Looks like he cut out the top and bottom of the damaged tubes, soldered the openings shut in the headers, and soldered the damaged areas of the tubes.
Just thought I'd update. I've Only used the dozer a handful of times since the repair. So far, it's holding up. Thanks again for all of your help.
That is good to hear the repair is holding and your able to work the machine when needed. Glad it worked out.