Does anyone out there know of any unusual things I need to look for in pulling the Torque Convertor/replacing the rear engine Oil seal on my Case 850D Long Track built in late 1989?
I had this done at Hunt Tractor in Louisville before they closed up. If I remember right , they pull the engine and torque out the front made the necessary repairs and reinstalled the engine torque assembly. There's a couple Case guys that will know more and may chime in one being Alarman , I think its what he goes by. I've read his posts , he's knowledgeable of all Case equipment.
Welcome to HEF Wayne Stiles! & thanks for the intro Dickjr. Do you have an engine oil leak? or a transmission leak? The convertor will come out from under the machine - leave the engine in place. Raise the machine up on blocks to allow easier & safe access. You will need to lock the loader arms in the raised position to allow access to the flexplate bolts. Check the flexplate for cracks. You will need to drain both the hyd. & transmission oils to carry out the job. Leave the rear engine oil seal carrier fitted & remove the seal by fitting a couple of self tapping screws to the seal & extracting. If the crank has a wear groove you may need a wear sleeve kit instead of the standard seal kit. :drinkup
Alrman , I can appreciate the info you share. We have a Case 850H we want to switch to decal pedal. I will start another thread on that. We have it done , but its very sensitive wrong springs. Back to topic , we have Case , Deere and Cat guys on here that are ,highly knowledgeable , I hope there is a Komatsu guy as well somewhere along the line.
I have a rear engine leak. Thanks for the very helpful info.It does not have a loader--just a blade. Thanks again.
I removed all the bolts from the rear of the converter that go into the bell housing. I also removed all the hoses driveline etc. Do you know if I need to remove anything else before trying to pull the torque converter back from the engine? I'm not clear on removal of the flexplate bolts on an 850D with a blade instead of a loader. Thanks again for all your input.
On the LHS of the engine, working from the front, you will see a small round plate retained with two bolts. It should have the engine breather pipe supported there also. This is where to remove the flexplate bolts - 15mm socket required. Support the convertor while doing this if all the other bolts are out, as it may fall. I usually use a small come along (lever winch?) to lower them from above.
You have a access hole, should be a plate on the bell housing near the fuel filters with two bolts holding it. Leave two bolts in the converter side snug, you have to turn the engine and take one bolt at a time until they are all out. It helps if you have the flywheel turning adapter tool that slips into the bell housing near the fuel filters to turn and hold while loosening and tightening. You might want to take a bolt to you parts house and pick up two around 3- 4" long and cut the head off to use as dowel bolts for removal and install.
Thank you for your help.
Thank you all again. I got the converter out, seal in and am ready to start re-assembly.