The dozer worked fine all morning. I was clearing brush and saplings from an overgrown field to create more pasture. I shut down for lunch. When I returned it fired up normal and everything came up as it should but when I shifted forward- nothing, reverse- nothing. Display on dash shows "N" no "F" or "R". I checked codes but came up with nothing. There were some old codes concerning the bump up bump down and the throttle, but they are working fine. No codes concerning powertrain controller or anything like that. This is an 850K series 2 with 3500 hours. Any ideas, thoughts or information on how to troubleshoot the problem would be greatly appreciated.
The K's have less than amazing electrical system,check the 1 or 2 amp fuse,I had the same thing happen few years back,still had hydraulics,just no frwd/rev.Fuse is all it was
Start by checking your safety levers. You will see a orange light on the lever proxy switch, should turn green when you put the levers down. (if you open the side doors you can see the proxy switch with the light on it) Check the fuses and relays. They get corroded and cause low volts, and can send low power to your controllers.
First, skadill and GaryHoff, thanks for the replies. I checked the fuses inside the swing up door and on the side of the console. They all checked good. I pulled the small relays, checked and cleaned the connections. There was some corrosion but not a lot. Now, on the display I get "NO CAN". I get a "Transmission Fault" light on the instrument panel that stays on. When I start it the bump up/dn doesn't default to 6 any more. The display doesn't show any fault codes. I couldn't see any lights on the safety levers. The round switch appears light blue on the end. I couldn't find an explanation for the no can display in the book but it doesn't sound good.
No can means that the controllers can't communicate. On the 9 pin deutsch diagnostic connector, check pins C & D, with the key off. Should have 120 ohms. If not, there is a can resistor inline in the harness under the dash that sometimes burns out. With key on, A should be ground, and B should be 12v. C should be 2.4volts , and D should be 2.6 volts. Advise with test results. **The 9 pin deutsch connector should be under the left side door by the fuse box. ** one of the last posts, they found some rubbed wires at the joystick.
9 pin deutsch connector reads: c to d - 123 ohms a to b - 12.37 volts a to c - 2.19 volts a to d - 2.12 volts
I found the proxy lights. Green is on all time, levers up or down. Orange is on only when levers are up.
From your readings it appears that your can resistor is good, (123ohms) You have power at the daig connector Your CAN voltages are too close. This suggests that a controller is offline. Either its not getting power, or has an open wire to its can, or it has failed. You will need to check all your controllers for power and ground and CAN.
Check the following pins, they should all read 123ohms Left joystick, pins 3 and 4. Travel controller, pins 26 and 27. Display dash, pins 23 and 29. Check the following for power: Left joystick, pins 1, and 5 Travel controller, pins 1, 2, 7, and 28 Display dash pins 1 and 28 Take a close look at the wires under the display, I have seen them rub through. Same for the left joystick.
GaryHoff Thanks for the information and help. I understand a little and don't understand a lot. I ran the checks today. continuity check left joystick (connector unplugged) pin 3 and pin 4 - 38.23 ohms (joystick side) 116.7 ohms (Connector side) travel controller (connector unplugged) pin 26 and pin 27 - 7.87 K ohms (module side) 121.0 ohms (connector side) display dash (connector unplugged) pin 23 and 29 - 38.63 ohms (dash side) 117 ohms (connector side) power check left joystick pin 1 - 12.39 volts pin 5 - 12.37 volts travel controller pin 1 - .018 volts pin 2 - 12.39 volts pin 7 - .018 volts pin 28 - .018 volts display dash pin 1 - 11.87 volts pin 28 - 12.43 volts wiring under joystick and behind dash looked fine.
You have proper CAN ohms at all the connectors (connector side is what we are concerned about) This tells us that the CAN harness should be good. Your travel controller is not getting power at all the pins. Sorry, I forgot to tell you be in neutral and to put the safety levers down when checking the travel controller power wires. If you do not have power at all the wires with the levers down, then jump power to them and try it. I like to use a fuse holder, in case something goes wrong you pop a fuse instead of melting wires. If you don't have a fuse holder, just use spade connectors to a 1amp atc fuse. (I suggest a 1amp fuse because if I remember right, the controller takes a 1amp fuse in the fuse box) The travel controller connector is easy to take apart, and you can easily back probe power to the wires as needed, with the controller plugged in. Travel controller power pins. Pin 1, switched power from safety relay Pin 2, Power from fuse block Pin 7, power from neutral relay Pin 28 Switched power from safety relay Please check the above and advise. All of your other checks appear to be good.
controller power (levers down) pin 1 - 12.49 volts pin 2 - 12.31 volts pin 7 - 11.48 volts pin 28 - 12.32 volts
Does the dash still say "NO CAN" ? Check your ground wires at the battery disconnect switch. Check you can voltages at the 9 pin deutsch connector. Unplug one controller at a time, and see what the voltages are. (go pin c to ground, and then pin d to ground, you will have to do this 3 times, once for each controller unplugged. Each check will need 2 controllers plugged in, and powered up. The CAN voltages should get a 0.2 difference with the bad controller unplugged. Without case software, you cant see what controller is offline.. All of your checks indicate to me that they should all be online. Its possible there may be a bad controller.
I think I understand the checks. Just inside door is a board with what looks like nine small relays plugged in. Are these the controllers? If so how do I determine the three controllers I need to check?
I found in the service manual the location of the control relays. I wasn't sure which three we needed to check so I checked several. controller pulled: a and c a and d 2 -brake 2.15 v 2.08 v 6 -handle neutral 2.15 v 2.08 v 7 -tractor 2.15 v 2.08 v 8 -micro controller 2.88 v 1.44 v 10 -neutral ok 2.16 v 2.09 v 11 -safety 2.15 v 2.08 v battery disconnect wiring ok display does still say no can
Sorry for the confusion, maybe this will make more sense. (I referred to the joystick, the travel controller, and the dash display as the controllers) Unplug the Left joystick. Turn the key on, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. Then check power from pins A and D. Plug back in the left joystick Unplug the travel controller. Turn the key on, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. Then check power from pins A and D. Plug back in the travel controller. Unplug the dash display. Turn the key on, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. Then check power from pins A and D. Plug back in the dash display. Check the above and let me know.
I appreciate your taking time to help. Sorry, I was just having trouble understanding the terminology. joystick unplugged - a and c 3.07v, a and d 1.61v dash display unplugged - a and c 2.68v, a and d 1.88v travel controller unplugged - a and c .02v, a and d .07v
I'm glad I can help. I know these checks are getting long, but I don't like to condemn an expensive part without all the proper checks. As long as you don't mind these tests, I don't mind helping. When the ignition is turn on, do the gauges on the dash display function? Does the speed needle come up to 60% speed? With the joystick unplugged did the dash display still say "NO CAN" ? The voltage readings seem a little odd to me, I just want to make sure you checked it right. 1. With the joystick unplugged, the dash and travel controller were both still plugged in and powered up, (safety levers down) 2. with the dash display unplugged, the joystick and travel controller were both still plugged in and powered up (safety levers down) 3. With the travel controller unplugged, the joystick and dash display were both still plugged in and powered up (safety levers down) ******************************************************************************************************************** New checks, 4. With only the left joystick plugged in. (dash and travel controller unplugged) Turn the key on, safety levers down, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. Then check power from pins A and D. 5. With only the dash display plugged in (travel controller and left joystick unplugged). Turn the key on, safety levers down, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. Then check power from pins A and D. 6. With only the travel controller plugged in (dash display and left joystick unplugged). Turn the key on, safety levers down, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. Then check power from pins A and D.
I don't mind the checks at all. In addition to troubleshooting the problem, it helps me learn how the dozer operates. I understand too, without Case software, troubleshooting is like taking the long way around. The checks are not hard to do. I have a helper- my wife. She is an automotive instructor assistant at a local tech. school, so she is a big help. The voltage readings we took yesterday were taken with one controller unplugged and the other two plugged in, key on and levers down. Three sets of two readings. Readings were at a and c and a and d at the diagnostic plug. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Today's checks 4. Left joystick plugged in. Dash and travel controller unplugged. Key on safety levers down. a and c 2.91v a and d 2.09 5. Dash display plugged in. Travel controller and joystick unplugged. Key on safety levers down. a and c 3.26v a and d 1.80v 6. Travel controller plugged in. Dash display and left joystick unplugged. Key on safety levers down. a and c .09v a and d .11v Also, when ignition is turned on display shows machine hours. Before the problem, I could press the top of second rocker button from right to get engine RPM but now I get "no can". I get the same thing with joystick unplugged.
Hmmmm......... Seem to have some conflicting readings, from post 17 to post 19. With only the travel controller plugged in, there was 0.09v and 0.11v. With the dash display and joystick plugged in, and the travel controller unplugged, there was 0.02v and 0.07v (should have had around 2v power there) Doesn't add up to proper readings to me. I think one of the tests went wrong. The last 2 tests are not too timely to do, and I think they need to be re-done. Assuming that post 19 is correct, the travel controller is not coming on. (only do the following, if you have confirmed that your last post is correct, post 19) At the travel controller, check your grounds. Pin 30, and pin 25 are grounds. With the travel controller plugged in, back probe your power wires, key on, safety levers down. This will tell you if there is a voltage drop to the travel controller. You may want to use the battery post as your grounding point, instead of pin A, to see if different results are obtained.
I will go back and verify readings from post 17 and post 19. Even though I double check readings I could have made a mistake. If post 19 is correct then I will do post 20.
GaryHoff, Didn't make it over to the dozer today, cut hay all day. I will do checks tomorrow afternoon and post them tomorrow evening. Thanks.
I rechecked readings from post 17. 17 was removing one controller and leaving the other two plugged in. Key on safety levers down. Readings with joystick unplugged, same as before. Readings with dash display unplugged, same as before. Readings with travel controller unplugged: a and c 2.53v, a and d 2.46v Battery ground and c 2.63v, Battery ground and d 2.65v These readings were a lot different from the earlier post. When I would double check my readings I would get a different value. I found the battery was weak in my volt meter. I had another meter in the truck that I used for these readings. Post 19 was one controller plugged in with the other two unplugged. Key on safety levers down. Readings with only joystick plugged in, same as before. Readings with only dash display plugged in, same as before. Readings with only travel controller plugged in: a and c .23v, a and d .35v Using battery post for ground instead pin a, readings were the same, .23 and .35v. These readings are different from #19 post but by very little. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ At the travel controller, pin 30 checks 33.7 ohms. Pin 25 checks 32.5 ohms. Back probed power wires at travel controller. Had battery voltage at pins#28 and #1. Did not have battery voltage at pin#2. Had .09v. I checked, double checked and then checked all of them again. Could not get power at pin 2. Wire is marked 19B.
Ok. Good. This makes more sense now. With your travel controller unplugged, you have proper CAN voltages. This means the travel controller is not turning on, which you just confirmed when you had no power to pin 2. Jump power to pin 2 to confirm my suspicion. You can take power from pin 1 or 28, using a fused jumper wire. Do this by back probing. The module should turn on, and your machine should be able to drive. Pin 2 is power from the fuse block. Check fuses for corrosion. If there is any doubt, just change ALL the fuses. Pin 30 and pin 25 have higher then normal resistance to ground. Did you check this from pin to battery ground, or the frame? Forgot to add that pin 3 is also ground.
We started cleaning fuses. My wife was using emery cloth on the metal tabs when one started to crumble at the edges like it was rotten. (10 amp) It checked ok for continuity but we replaced it anyway. We checked pin 2 on the travel controller and it had power. I checked the dash display and the bump up/dn works. It defaults to 60 and the buttons work. We no longer have "NO CAN" on the display. Dozer will not move. We have an N on the display but no F or R when the left joystick is moved (with RPM up). We have a red parking light all the time. When the key is turned on the dash lights cycle off after 2 seconds but the park light stays on. I can start engine, park light stays on levers up or down. The right proxy switch has orange light with lever up but no green, lever down. Left proxy switch is ok. Orange with lever up , green with lever down. These were working at one time. You had me check them in an earlier post.
Sounds like the "NO CAN" is repaired. The problem with the continuity tests is it doesn't load the circuit, so you can still have a voltage drop problem, even when your multi meter says there is continuity. Both proxy switches should do the same thing. The green light indicates that it is working. Sounds like your left proxy switch is out of adjustment, or failed. I think you can unplug the proxy switch to test, and you should be able to get out of park. If not, you can also bypass this by jumping pin 30 to 87a on the "Safety relay" (it will not start with the relay in bypass) Can you start the engine with the safety levers down, or with just the left lever down?
Proxy switches both show green now, with levers down. Shows orange with levers up. Dash display still shows Park. Won't take forward or reverse. Jumping 30 to 87a on the Safety Relay had no effect. 87a on the Safety Relay has no connector in the base and no wire to it. Engine will start with one lever down and other side up, either right or left. Everything seems to be normal except park light stays on and it won't take forward or reverse.
Sounds like your proxy switches are working now, but your left joystick is not working. Did you change all the fuses? If one was corroded, the rest are probably not so good. For the small price of fuses, I would change them all. Does all of your dash display work now? Check your joystick connector again, and make sure you have power at pins 1, and 5.
The joystick has 12 plus volts to ground at pins 1 and 5. Looked over wiring at joystick and connector. It looks ok. We changed out the fuses we had. Will change the rest of them out Monday. The dash display all works. Park light still on, won't shift out of neutral.
Any faults on the dash display? Since you said your bump up and down switches work on the joystick, I think your joystick is ok. Try pushing your brake pedal. Push on it hard a few times and let go quickly. Also try just pulling it up too. Sometimes the pedal will not raise all the way to the stops. Also check the potentiometer on the pedal, make sure its not damaged, and the wiring is ok. 521 wire at the brake pedal should read about 4V with the pedal up, and about 0.7v pedal pushed down.
No fault codes on the dash display. Worked with the break petal today. It is tight, no slop or free travel. Rebounds well. Wiring is in good shape. I could only get .8v with break petal up and the same with petal pushed down. Key on, safety levers down. Wire 521 was not marked but print showed it connected to "B" at potentiometer. I was backing probing pin "B" at the potentiometer connector. Got the same reading at battery ground and at pin "A" at deutsch diagnostic connector.
Sounds like the brake potentiometer is your problem. The computer thinks that you are pushing on the brake pedal, and so it will not release the brakes. If you have good power and ground at the brake pedal, I would replace the brake potentiometer. ***It should only have 5v power
I have 5v at pin A to ground on the potentiometer connector. I also unplugged the potentiometer and checked resistance between pins A and B then C and B, got no change, petal up and petal down. I will order potentiometer from Case in the morning. I will post when I get it on.
Got the brake potentiometer today and got it put on. I am still trying to get it adjusted. Any suggestions on how to adjust it?
Try and set it so wire 521 has 3 to 4.5v with the pedal up, and 0.5 to 1.5v with the pedal depressed. Then calibrate it in the dash.
2.Push and hold the bump up and bump down buttons on the directional control. 3.Start the engine and continue to hold the bump up and bump down buttons until "HP XX-XX" is displayed. 4. Use the bump up/down buttons to select the machine horsepower rating that is being calibrated, 70-80 (650K), 80-90 (750K), or 90-100 (850K). NOTE: The improper horsepower range selection will cause the calibration to be incorrect and machine functions will be impaired. 5.When the machine being calibrated is displayed, press both buttons for one second and release, the instrument cluster should read "CAL POT". 6. Smoothly move the brake pedal from release to applied position two-to-four times, followed by moving the throttle to high idle, leave the throttle at high idle. NOTE: During operation if the instrument cluster reads out "ERR RANGE", one or both minimum/maximum values are out of range or one or both potentiometers were not moved in the last five seconds since the start of calibration mode. 7.With the brake pedal released, move the decelerator pedal from high to low idle, two to three times to set the end points. With the decelerator pedal depressed to the low idle position, press both buttons for one second and release, the instrument cluster will read "CAL INC". 8. Move the decelerator pedal from low idle to high idle smoothly and steadily over a period of 15 to 20 seconds one time to set the engine calibration curve. The instrument cluster will then read "CAL DONE". Stop and restart the engine, values are stored in internal memory. NOTE: During this operation if the instrument cluster reads out "ERR SPEED", the throttle was not in the low idle position at the start of "CAL INC", the engine is not running, or no engine speed signal is being received. 9.If at any time during calibration the instrument cluster reads "CAL FAIL", stop the engine and restart the procedure.
I tried to calibrate potentiometer but just got "RANGE ERR" on the dash display. I checked the voltage at pin B (wire 521) on the connector to the potentiometer and got 1.38v petal up. I moved the potentiometer around but still only got 1.38v. Pushing petal down did not change reading. I do have 5v at pin A (wire 523). I checked resistance on the potentiometer, wire 523 to 521, got 6.21 k ohms and did not get a change in resistance when the petal was pushed. I am not sure if that is the correct way to check it. Is there somewhere else to check for voltage on wire 521 instead of backing probing the connector at potentiometer?
Checking voltage at 521 at the connector is the best place. Maybe removed the potentiometer and manually turn it, and see if voltage changes at wire 521, as maybe it isn't moving when you push on the pedal. You could also hold it in your hand and check the resistance, I think from pin a to b, but you may have to try a to c, or c to b. When you find the right ones, the resistance will change as you move the potentiometer.
For what it may be worth, I believe the sensor is not a traditional potentiometer, instead it is an electronic semiconductor sensor device. Therefore, it only puts out voltage, and measuring variable resistance is not an option. Possibly take the sensor loose from the pedal linkage and then turn with a small screw driver while measuring voltage by back probing. If you are not getting any change, then either bad sensor or something is drawing down the circuit voltage to the 1.38v. However, if you are getting a change from 4v with a screwdriver movement, then the pedal linkage is suspect. Looking at the Case parts web site, it looks like there are several set screws that if loose could cause the sensor not to move. Reference link http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr57125ar365674bi1435477-14 (not sure what series 850K you have, but I think the pedal linkages are the same for all)
fpgm04, thanks for the reply, any information is appreciated. Dozer is series 2. GaryHoff, I pulled the potentiometer and we are getting very low voltage, (.1) at wire 521 (pin B). I thought we were getting slightly higher voltage yesterday but my wife says no, we were getting .13v. Probably not a point of major concern. We have nothing near the 3 to 4.5v (wire 521) needed with the petal up. There is no variation in voltage (wire 521) when potentiometer is turned through its entire range, with a screwdriver. I did check resistance and got no variation when potentiometer is turned with any combination of pins. I do have a solid 5v at wire 523 (pin A). I checked the petal linkage and it is solid. No slop and it turns the shaft connecting to the potentiometer. The old potentiometer was obviously bad. When I took it off it came off in pieces. Is it possible I got a new bad one?
Its possible that you have a bad brake potentiometer, but not likely. The pin out information I have, is different than yours. Please refer to the following. **pot = potentiometer brake pedal pot. pin A, wire 523, to pin 23 at travel controller - is 5v from controller brake pedal pot pin b, wire 525, to pin 25 at travel controller - ground from controller brake pedal pot pin c, wire 521, to pin 21 at travel controller - signal out from brake pot. Make sure you have the wires in the correct positions in the brake pot. connector. As per your last post you said wire 521 is in pin B, and my information says it should be in pin c. Maybe you took out the wires for testing, and put them back in the wrong spots. The pins are easily moved, so its a fairly quick check. If the wires are in the right positions, my logic says it should work, as you have power and ground at the brake pot. Do you have any fault codes now?
For clarity, what color wires are in each connector cavity coming from the sensor? If I recall correctly, from the sensor : 5v=red, ground=black, and variable signal was a blue wire. Sounds like it would be worth confirming your sensors (old and new) are good or bad. As you indicated your wife worked at tech school, does she or you have access to variable DC power supply that you could use? If so, then the sensor component could be checked out. Checking would be simple, start with the loose sensor. Set DC power supply to 5v. Connect to the sensor to the power supply using alligator clips, or paper clips, whatever it takes. Power supply + (5v) to sensor red, power supply – to sensor black. Put your volt meter between power supply – and blue sensor wire. Turn sensor shaft and see if you get 4 volts. If not, then bad sensor.
The print I have been using came with the service manual and it shows pin B wire on the potentiometer labeled 521. Wire labeled 521 is black. Our print is obviously wrong. No wires have been removed from the connector. That is the wire I have been checking. Today I checked for voltage variation on the blue wire, pin c, labeled 525 on my print but is actually wire 521. Turning the potentiometer with a screwdriver I got .51v to 4.48v. Little better, huh? I put the potentiometer back on and got 4.09v to 1.1v, petal up to petal down. This falls in the range you suggested, so I felt better - for a little while. I was able to get it calibrated on the second try with the procedure you gave me. I got through calibration with "CAL DONE" on the dash display. I restarted the engine, brought the RPM up, put safety levers down and it still won't shift into forward or reverse. I checked fault codes and found 4: 4321, 4331, 4521, & 4533. These were all recent, within the last 30 minutes or so. I cleared them, restarted and checked again. 4321 came back. I cleared, restarted again and it did not come back. So there are no fault codes showing now but still won't take forward or reverse.
Well, it looks like we have made some progress, but not enough to get it moving. 4321- Throttle potentiometer circuit out of range 4331- Inching pedal potentiometer out of range 4521- Bump up switch stuck on at power up 4533- Joystick CAN message fault, Directional control forward/reverse axis faulted. Since it took a calibration, and you have the proper voltage range now, I would suggest that the brake pot. is working. You need to run it again, and move the throttle and the joystick and brake pedal. Faults 4321, 4331, & 4533 will all stop you from moving. We need to know which one is coming on. If there is no faults, then it should work. Maybe it failed your first calibrations because of a bad throttle potentiometer. Since 4321 came back, it seems like the most probable one to check.
I tried to run calibration again today. I kept getting "RANGE ERR" and "CAL FAIL". I checked the fault codes and 4321 came up, nothing else. I cleared it and tried to calibrate again but failed. 4321 came up again and would not clear. I think I have found the throttle potentiometer. It is on the RH side of the machine under the floor and somewhat in line with the decelerator pedal. Is that correct? I can only see part of it but it feels like it. I will need to tilt the cab to access it. Correct? Should the voltage values be about the same as the brake potentiometer?
I would agree that your throttle potentiometer is faulty too. I believe that you have found the throttle potentiometer, and tilting the cab would probably help to gain access to it. I'm sure that you have tilted you cab before, but if not, there is instructions on the right door. Follow them exactly. I had a guy forget to removed his throttle linkage, and it damaged his injection pump. The other common thing to forget was to leave the left door open. #28 should be the throttle pot.
I checked the throttle potentiometer today and got 4.96v on the red wire, .53v on the blue wire with no variation when the potentiometer was turned with a screwdriver. I will order one in the morning. Probably be here Monday. I also a have a possible cause for failure. The potentiometer was soaked in hydraulic fluid. Apparently a leak near the drive shaft coupler. The coupler has been slinging the fluid. Haven't had a chance to check all the hoses yet.
Oil is a great thin film insulator....
I have been trying to get the throttle potentiometer calibrated. I get "CAL FAIL" at about the same spot each time. CAL FAIL comes up during, or at the end, of the second time I apply the decel petal to low idle. No fault codes come up. I haven't checked voltage variation yet. Should voltages be about the same as the brake potentiometer? Low idle at the throttle is 850 to 900 RPM. Low idle on the decelerator is higher, 970 RPM. Could that cause a calibration problem?
Yes the voltages of throttle sensor should be in the same range as brake sensor. I am not an expert on the calibration, but have you tried adjusting the stop bolt on the back side of the decelerator pedal so it can go further down and produce similar low idle rpm as the hand throttle?
Yes, the throttle pot and brake pot should have the same voltage range. Since your calibration is failing at the decel pedal stage, make sure the decel pedal is traveling in the proper range. (throttle pot signal should not go below 0.5v or over 4.5v) Any more fault codes? Does it move? The calibration can be hard to do sometimes. Try moving the pedal very slowly Even try not pushing the decel pedal all the way to see if it passes.
I did get the dozer to take calibration but it still will not take forward or reverse. I checked voltage on the throttle sensor and high end was 4.45v, low end was 2.4v. I adjusted linkage and got the low end down to 1.1v, high end at 3.5v. After it failed calibration several times, I went went through the procedure a little faster than I had been. I got "CAL POT, CAL INC, and CAL DONE". I shut the dozer off and restarted but it still doesn't take forward or reverse. I have green lights on the proxy switches and there are no fault codes showing.
So no fault codes now......... Does F or R show in the dash now? Speed up and down buttons still work on the joystick? Park brake light stays on in the dash? What happens if you do the following : before key on, raise the throttle 1/3 or so, slightly push and hold on the brake and decel pedal, start the machine, then try and move forward or reverse. With no fault codes it should be working now.............. Did you finish replacing all the fuses? We may need to revisit the schematics............................. Maybe its not getting full power from the safety relays. Remove and check all your relays for corrosion. Swap them around while they are out.
Apparently I screwed something up. I started checking relays. There are 3 vertical rows, 2 relays in first row, 4 relays in second row and 3 relays in third row. I pulled top relay in third row, moved the others up and top went to bottom. I checked the dash display and there was no change. I did the same procedure on the second row and I got 3 red lights on the dash and 1 yellow light. Manual shows three red lights to be low oil pressure in the transmission, low oil pressure in the engine and low voltage in the battery. The yellow light is transmission controller encountered a fault. Dash display says "NO CAN" again. I found a blown fuse. Bottom row, first fuse on left, 30 amp. I replaced the fuse but there was no change. I returned the relays to their original positions but no change. If I need to go back to square one, running checks, I can.
Hmmmm. Well, I would start back in your fuse panel and relay panel. It seems that you moved something to cause this fault. I would suggest that you clean all the fuses and relay contacts. You may also have a bad relay. Did you change all the fuses? If not, then I would suggest to change all the fuses, regardless if they are blown or not. Seems like this is the best place to start.
I am still checking relay and fuse blocks. I did find a wire pulled loose at one of the relays. After I put it back on, the yellow controller error light on the dash, and the NO CAN on the display are gone. The 3 red lights, low oil pressure in transmission, low oil pressure in the engine, and low battery voltage are still on. (battery is not low and I haven't started the engine since the red lights came on, so engine oil pressure can't be measured) but the lights are on anyway. The rocker switch doesn't bring up "FAULTS" so I have not been able to find any fault codes. I replaced all fuses. The bump up/bump down works fine. I'm going back over tomorrow and finish cleaning contacts on the relay and fuse blocks.
Man I take my hat off to you I'd a done blown that thin up!!! Just Kidding but you are a very patient and diligent man. I'm following and rootin for you!!!
Thanks southernman13 for the support, although dynamite has crossed my mind.
I pulled all relays, cleaned prongs and scraped all connections. Corrosion was minimal but I scraped all I found. Scraped all fuse connections. While I had them out I checked continuity on the relay coils and continuity on the nc pins. All were ok. All wiring going in on the backside looked fine. Still have the red lights on the dash.
A continuity test on the relays will not tell you much, as it doesn't load the circuit. The red lights should be on until the machine is started. Do they stay on when the machine is running?
GaryHoff, yes the 3 red lights do go off when the engine is cranked. These lights were not on before I rotated the relays, I am 99% sure. At least I didn't screw anything up when I pulled and cleaned the relays. Looking at the print it makes sense they would be on before the engine is started, as they are NC circuits, only going open with pressure. The red park light comes on with all the rest of the lights, goes out for about one second when the engine starts then comes back on. No codes Tried putting throttle to 1/3,holding down slightly on the brake and decel. Turned on key and started engine, tried to go forward and reverse but it wouldn't move. Dash display shows "N" all time. No "F" or "R". Replaced all fuses. Bump up/dn works fine. Not sure where to go from here.
I feel your pain brother wow. Hang in there man I'm sure you'll get it figured out. It'll probably be something stupid/simple. You will be a certified case man for too long!!
Does your machine have a cab, or is it just a rops. I have had lots of joysticks fail on rops or canopy machines. It seems like the weather is hard on them. Try moving your travel joystick around a bunch, to see if you can make that joystick fault you had earlier come back. Since you have resolved all your other fault codes, my best judgment is that your joystick is faulty. Joysticks are not cheap. I remember them being near $2500 Since its so expensive, it may be worth swapping with another machine to verify. Models that have the same joystick are as follows : 650k series 1,2 &3, 750k series 1,2 &3, and 850k series 1,2 &3. 650l, 750l, 850l, 1150k, 1650L. If you cant find a joystick to try, I would suggest talking to your case dealer. They may let you borrow a joystick from one of their machines to try. They may also let you test your joystick on one of their machines. Most electronic parts are non returnable once opened, so testing with the new one may not be a good option.
As things are not adding up, and you are reaching for things to try, let me ask a couple of questions for what it may be worth. 1) Are you putting the “both” levers down “first”, “before” moving the joystick to forward? I ask this as the condition described (no faults, bump up/down works, continuity checked, but no movement), sounds like a safety interlock restriction preventing movement. In the same sprit as Gary says to move the joystick around, try cycling back and forth both levers. As I seem to recall only one lever up/down is required to start the engine, but both required down to move the vehicle, perhaps swap the lever sensors and see what happens. 2) Is there an audible alarm active once the engine is started and you attempt to move? Besides joystick the issue Gary describes, it could be on the drivetrain controller side of things. If you have not already checked the wiring harness connection to the controller, it might be worth doing a quick check. Simply take them off, inspect, clean as required, and put back on. Perhaps a corroded terminal pin or bad ground to the controller could be causing some issues. Another option would be if you could arrange to have a dealer Service Tech stop by your machine with his laptop service tool, there are various checks he could do to help pin point the issue.
fpgm04 - Thanks for the input, but consider the following: 1. a. Refer to post 27, in regards to proxy switches. Proxy switches are working. b. A fault in the safety interlock will still show a blinking F or R in the display, when the travel lever is moved. 2. CAN and powers were verified at the joystick. Refer to post 10. There was some corrosion in the fuse/relay panel, but I believe vcat repaired it, and that stopped the "no can" message. I don't like to condemn a $2500 part based on forum diagnosing. So I agree that it may be worth having a dealer do the final check. Based on the tests performed, I don't know of anything else that would cause this, other than a joystick. The only unusual thing is that the bump up and down buttons still work. If vcat can make the joystick fault come back, that would confirm my suspicions.
GaryHoff, I incorrectly stated in my last post there were no fault codes. I don't know if there are or not. The DISPLAY/SERVICE switch has quit working about the time I shuffled relays around. I get no change in the display when the button is pushed. I will pull the dash and check the switch. I am getting power to its mate, the UP/DOWN switch. With key on I get "N 3502.3X" , (machine hours)press the UP/DOWN once, I get "N 0 RPM" press it again I get "NS NONE". Then it starts over, nothing else. I don't know if these switches could have anything to do with the no movement problem. The switch problem is keeping me from knowing if there are any fault codes. This may not mean anything but it is odd. The bump up/down works but has a buzz at 20%, 30%, and 60%. The buzz sounds like a mosquito. No buzz on other settings. The buzz sounds like it comes from behind the dash. I will have to get the DISPLAY/SERVICE switch working to make sure I don't have any codes. If there are none, I will carry my joystick to my Case dealer and see if I can get it checked on a machine. If it is good or if I can't get it checked, I will see about getting a tech out ( 65 miles).
Without knowing if there is fault codes or not, it leaves more possibilities open. The travel controller will prevent you from moving, with certain faults. I don't believe the buzzing from the display is anything to worry about. Is the transmission fault light on? Have you considered making a fault, to see if it will display active faults? (unplug they joystick or brake pot. as a test) Does your machine have a cab, or just a rops? You may still have an issue in your fuse/relay panel. It seems to me that every time you have a look in there, something seems to happen. Make sure you have a close look at all the relays. To simplify testing of the relays for you, swap them one at a time with the starter relay, then try and start. If it doesn't start, then you found your bad relay.
I substituted each relay for the start relay. The dozer started every time. I pulled the break potentiometer connector apart and started the dozer. It didn't show any codes. The Display/service switch is still not working. I pulled the Display/Service switch and it has continuity on both sides but no power to it. I was chasing out wires when the rain started. We have a lot of rain moving in. Dozer is ROPS, no cab. No transmission fault light. I won't post for a few days, there was a death in the family.
Sorry to hear about your loss vcat kinda makes the dozer issue a non issue. Life happens good and bad. Hope you and your family can work through it.
Thanks southernman13, for the kind words, you are exactly right.
I found the Display/Service switch power problem. Loose wire at the fuse block. Two codes came up. 4331- is when I disconnected the brake pot to see if it would show an active code. 4621- I think is the No Can code I got when a wire on one of the relays came loose. I was substituting relays with the start relay. I cleared these 2 and they didn't come back. No fault codes. The only light lit on the dash is the park light. Bump up/dn still works fine. Just won't take forward or reverse.
Good news. 4621 is No CAN communication with instrument cluster. This code will prevent machine movement. Try and make the fault re-occur. You will probably need to move the travel joystick to trigger the fault. I would recommend re-testing power and ground at the dash display (the service manual refers to this as the instrument cluster). CAN wires are pins 23 and 29. 1. Key off. Ohm reading from pin 23 to 29 harness side, should have 120ohms 2. Key on, safety levers down, pins 1 and 28 harness side, should have 12v each. 3. Pin 30 and 36 are ground. When checking for power at pin 23 and 29, use pins 30 and 36 as the grounds. Repeat using frame ground. Does your machine have a cab? If the above things check good, and fault 4621 comes back, its likely your instrument cluster has failed.
I tried to get the No Can fault code to come up again but it didn't. I worked with the joystick but no luck. The dozer will start with the joystick in any position, front, middle or back. 116.7 ohms at pins 23 and 29 on the dash connector. All the following power checks gave 12+ volts Pins 1 to 30 1 to 36 1 to frame ground 28 to 30 28 to 36 28 to frame ground Machine does not have cab. Went back and verified resistance and power readings to joystick as per posts #9 & #10. They were the same as before.
I have a 2006 new holland d85 LT. I can't believe what I'm reading. I'm having very similar issues like you are. I have two error codes that keep popping up. 4522 X2 @ 1285hrs and 4521 x1 @1285hrs. I had a generic mechanic come out today and look at it. I recently bought the shop repair manual for 365.00 and he used it to look in into the codes. He had the joystick out of the machine and was performing several tests. According to him, I need a new joystick. My machine was running fine with the two error codes a month ago. I parked it for a month and now when I start it up and lower the parking brake levers the light goes off, but it feels like I'm stuck in the mud! The machine crepted forward but turned slightly to the right. Feels like my parking brake isn't releasing properly. I'm not sure exactly what tests the mechanic performed, but there was a slight language barrier problem that I had with him. I have had the no can appear on the screen, but not consistently. Any thoughts? Sorry to jump into your thread,but I'm in such a similar boat it's uncanny! Thank you guys and prayers to vcat.
From what Ive read these two machines we have are nearly identical minus the paint job. Another question I have for you guys, I realize there's a 99% chance its a wiring issue, but is there any chance of any other issue that we arent looking at on a more mechanical side? Possibly a transmission fault due to a clogged strainer/ screen? I have a bobcat T300 that periodically tears up the brakes on the track motors. Once the brakes start to fail, the fines travel thru the hydraulic lines to the case drain filter that can only handle so much debris before it fails. I know this because Ive had the copper case drain filter fail and it was a catastrophically bad day! My point being, do these machines have a return line strainer/screen that could possibly be limiting the flow of fluid to the pump? Its a long shot I know, but I'm having an anxiety attack about the $2200.00 cost of the new joystick. I'm also going to go thru the fuses and relays, I found a 30amp fuse in the 1A slot, which caused the block and fuse to weld itself together. Idiot i bought the machine from really got over on me! thanks for any help and VCAT sorry i don't mean to hijack your thread.
VCAT > Hmmmm. Check wire 538, pin 7 at the travel controller. Make sure it has 12v power with the safety levers down. It is normal for the machine to start with the joystick in any position, even though the operators manual says it shouldn't. Also, if both levers are down, will the machine still start? In a earlier post you mentioned it would start with one lever down (either side) which is normal. My best judgement is to get your joystick checked out at the dealership. I have changed many joysticks on machines without cabs. The weather is what seems to make them fail. My concern is that you are not getting a constant error code. The typical failures of joysticks show fault codes 4533, 4532, 4531, which you are not getting. So a failed joystick doesn't seem to add up for me. If you have to travel far to your dealership, bring your dash display too. But same issue. The typical fault codes to indicate a failure are not present.
guisep3 > Please start a new thread. In regards to your fault codes 4522, and 4521. This is just the bump up and bump down switches, which can be changed without getting a new joystick. Since your park light is going off, this suggests that your joystick is working. As for your no drive, I need a little more information. 1. Does it sound like the engine is loading up when you try to move forward or reverse? If so, then the park brake is not releasing. The park brake solenoids are very common to fail. Often you will see that they are melted. They are on the left side of the machine, and can just be seen from the side door. If you have long arms you can reach it, or tilt the cab. I would advise you to change all the fuses, regardless if they are blown or not. They get corroded and cause issues. In regards to your suction screen question, yes there is suction screens in the tank. Yes it is possible that they are plugged, but not likely. If they were plugged it could cause low charge pressure, and not release the brakes. If this were the issue, the engine would not load up very much. If you are concerned about this, just check at the test port labelled charge pressure. Should have about 350psi at idle. The charge filter can also do this. It has a bypass to tank for when it is plugged (so when filter is plugged you cant move). Your transmission light should be on when its plugged. Please post your reply in your new thread. Thank you.
I checked wire 538, pin 7 at the travel controller and got 11.7 volts, levers down. The dozer starts normal, with one lever up one lever down, either side. It won't start both levers down. I tilted canopy and checked wiring again. Couldn't find anything out of place, loose, burnt, damaged, etc. Could the brake solenoid cause such a problem? It probably wouldn't be activated until the dozer took forward or reverse though. I don't imagine there are very many problems that would keep the dozer from moving but not cause a fault code. Just thinking out loud.
wire 538, pin 7 at the travel controller, it should also have no power with the levers up The brake solenoid would not cause your issue. There are not many things that would cause no movement and no fault codes. In general, no movement usually comes with a fault code, as it is all electronically controlled by the travel controller. The conditions for movement, in sequence is engine running, joystick in neutral, throttle raised to approx. 1100rpm, joystick moved forward/reverse. Since you have had your machine for a while, you probably remember that if you didn't raise the throttle, it wouldn't move, but should would have displayed F or R. Same goes if you forgot a safety lever up, it wouldn't move, but would still display F or R. My best judgement is for you to get the joystick tested at your dealership, as your display should still show F or R when the joystick is moved.
I took the joystick to Case dealer. The Shop Foreman checked it out and said it was definitely bad. I have one ordered.
Oh hell yeah hopefully your troubles will come to an end. Bout damn time. I'm tired of you workin on it hehe!! Hope that fixes it. Your gonna have to change your name to vcase!!!
Good to hear. Hopefully this will be the last of your issues.
I tried to take my joystick to my local dealer and they said they wouldn't touch it. Glad to hear you found a dealer willing to help!
Vcat I wanted to give you an update on my situation seeing as how we have nearly identical symptoms and error codes. I hired a mechanic that helped me double team the diagnostics that Garyhoff has walked you thru. We walked thru the manual that I bought from the dealer and we found an error in the print. I called my dealer and even the shop foreman agreed that the book was wrong. We checked for continuity between pins 5 and 6 with the stick in neutral position as instructed. The result on my old and NEW joystick was identical which was an OPEN. L, R, F, R all gave a closed circuit which makes sense. According to the book it says you should see closed. If you see open circuit the book says the joystick is bad. What does your stick give you? I then proceeded to follow all the instructions to test the 4533, 4532, and 4531 diagnostics. All my readings checked ok. The book says if found ok, then the Travel Control Module is bad. Im already $2300 deep on a joystick to this point, so Im desperate to find any solution. So my mechanic and I pulled the 1 amp fuses that are used for the travel control module. (1amp, 1amp, and a 25amp.) I found a blown 1 amp fuse on the controller, so we replaced it with a 3 amp. I turned the key back on and sure enough the tranny error light had gone out. So I put my old joystick back in machine and was able to operate the machine again. My advice would be to try a 3 amp fuse in place of the 1 amp fuse. as your looking at that row it would be the 3 fuse from the left. let me know how your situation works out, Im on schedule for a Mobile Service call from dealer to plug in computer. I might wait and run the machine for a while to see what happens.
IT MOVES! Yep, ain't that cool? GaryHoff you nailed it. I appreciate the help. New joystick did the trick. It is certainly a relief to have the problem solved. GaryHoff, I do indeed appreciate the step by step trouble shooting, for someone who really enjoys heavy equipment but is not a mechanic. I hope that is all the problems for a while. I know I do have one but it is not an immediate issue. Its probably a winter shop repair. The seal on the drive shaft behind the u-joint where it goes into the big pump appears to have a small leak. This is what soaked the throttle pot. The spinning u-joint throws the fluid in a big circle. The leak is not big but I'm sure it will grow with use. Is it possible to unbolt the pump and slide it back or does the pump need to be pulled? Either way the seal will have to be changed out. I appreciate the comments, support and humor from everyone. I am ready to button her up an get back to clearing brush.
Good to hear its working. It was a bit of a trip to come to the conclusion, but I do enjoy the puzzle. The shaft seal into the pump is expensive, at least $100 or so. Its a Rexroth pump, so you can probably get one at your local hydraulic shop for less, just make sure they don't give you a standard lip seal. Needs to be the special seal to handle the case drain pressure. I think that you can slide the pump back to install the new seal, but you would be cramped for room. It would be easier to install the seal with the pump being vertical, or removed from the machine.
Thanks for all the help GaryHoff.
Hi guys,,,I have a 850K Series 2,1600 hours, stuck in low gear,so here I am. I just want to thank the heck out of Gary for the superior knowledge and patience,you are a hero here. Vcat for your perseverance and posts. And Guisep3, I strongly wonder if I owned that dozer for a few days before you. I had bought a DC85 from a family farm equipment dealer North of Pittsburg about an hour? Extremely religious!!! Got it here and it wouldn't push anything,looked great and drove,wouldn't push a thing,and he returned it and refunded me. I will go start a new thread,I just wanted to REALLY thank everyone in this thread,,,some super great stuff. Have a great day guys,and thank you.
All, Got involved with one of these machines that had a joystick problem. Dozer would not move in forward or reverse without keeping pressure on the stick in a VERY particular spot. I opened the joystick and determined the potentiometers for F/R and L/R had failed. I have the ability to get these components custom made to match the originals and can perform the repair for a fraction of the cost of a new joystick. Is this something useful? What other machines use the same joystick? Right now, I'm thinking I could charge somewhere around $750 for a repair. If i decide it is worth it, i will have a larger quantity of components made to keep on hand. I am located in SW Ohio.
Bush , I followed this thread earlier. I can offer this info , which you may already know. From the machines I've ran all the K models use the same joystick , 650 up to 1850. Cat , Deere and Komatsu all use about the same set up. I have a Komatsu D39 which is the counter part to the 850 Case. I will see if I can lay my hands on a Komatsu stick to see if you can repair these as well. 750 would be reasonable , I think a new one is 2200 or more. Gary Hoff that posted here is very knowledgeable of Case equipment.
Thanks! That would be great. I need to document the machines that use the same stick. From the stick that I've been working on, i can't imagine much else going wrong with them other than the microswitches. If a board component fails, i might not be able to fix it, although I would give it a shot. I just don't have the details of the machine connections to be able to test the whole stick.
Honestly,mine is still a doorstop. 4 family members with health issues really limits a guy on what he can get done outside. My very next step was to do exactly this. Pull the joystick, bring it inside,sit it by the fire all nice and dry for days and tear into it. Nothing to lose. Last I checked with Case. New one was $2050 and discontinued. Reman was $1400. I had found a new one on a shelf for $1450 and was going to buy it but just couldn't pull the trigger until I checked mine out for peace of mind. Bush,,, there is absolutely a market for rebuilding these. No question about that.Like everything else, price is what sells. And it will have to be right.
atc007, what is the problem with yours? Should i read back a few pages? I would be willing to look over yours if you can explain what it was doing.
1700 hours. All was fine. Some big talker stopped in, they were doing a paving job down the road and someone told him I would probably take the tear out for in my driveway. He was the boss, he obviously had machine experience,said he had 34 years and his daughter could out operate most guys.... He said he had to own it, wanted his boss to buy it. I said sure, you can level the loads as they come up,and you will know EXACTLY what you're buying, keys are in it... Well, 15 minutes later, the guy with him comes back up, how do you get that to move.? We walked down and he didn't know to put both parking brakes down. He had rared on it not knowing how to get it to move and it's been stuck in first gear ever since. As of right now, there are no codes, Case dealer I called had me read them to him, then we erased them,and a line blew,in the middle of the biggest flood we have ever had,and it's been down since. It goes F and R, but very very slow. Turns fine. The line that blew calls for the blade and frame to be pulled off , I sawzalled it off, got a swivel that lacks literally 1 mm of going in,and haven't been back to it... I really need to get this beast up and around...If I pull it off and can't see anything obvious like dirty rusty components... I could send it to you for a experiment I suppose. I was thinking along the exact same lines you were. I was gonna source parts and do my damndest to rebuild it . Just the kinda guy I am. But you are ahead of me, I will gladly help anyway I can. I have a pond and 1/4 mile of creek to clean this spring. I'm already permitted from the flood damage. I checked the wiring, it is spotless clean,and all the connectors are soft and supple. The joystick feels perfect, detents and returns as new. It just won't go fast
When you say "stuck in first gear," is that first speed on the thumb switches? I read somewhere that the dealer can get you those parts. When you say "turns fine," does it turn at the full speed or same speed as it moves forward and reverse. Will it counter-rotate when the stick is full left or right?
Man, I apologize, I'm used to being the mechanic,boy do i stink at being the customer... It shifts through all of the gears up and down perfectly in the dash. The thumb rocker works perfect. Also, it is not "stuck" in first gear,iirc,, it does not move in 1,2,3,starts to move in 4th and gets ever so slightly faster in 5 and 6. Is it a 6 speed on the thumb lol? I forget but think it is. Yes, it countersteers in reverse,and steers fine,but does not speed up at all.In a nustshell, all is well except that 1-3 are static,and 3-6 barely make the machine move,but ARE different, the rocker switch for the thumb is doing it's job. Whew ...lol.
Sounds like it could be a problem with the forward/reverse pot, just like the one i've been working on, except his would jerk in and out of gear. I believe it is 5 speeds on the thumb. Starts at 60%, can step it up to 100%. Let me know if you want to pursue a repair. I haven't ordered any pots yet and they're 10-12 week lead time.
Hello everyone, good to see this thread is getting some use. atc007, Just my 2 cents on your issue: The hydrostatic transmission is pump adjusted from speeds 1-6. At speed 6 the pump is at full stroke. From speeds 7-10, the speeds are adjusted by the motor displacement. Failed joysticks typically will set active fault codes. Your brake POT is working? Have you calibrated it? Some machines will not move at too low of an idle. I'm assuming your checking all of this at 1/3 throttle or more. Does the machine counter rotate normally? Do the tracks speed up when you counter rotate, compared to straight travel? I would recommend checking your charge pressure. There is test ports on the side of the machine. Also have a close look at your brake POT.
Bush and Gary. Thank you so much for responding. I didn't get a email alert that you had?? I'm still down with the blown hose . Once up and running I will get you fellas specifics! Gary, it does counterrotate correctly,even though it is super slow, it is doing that. Yes, I know it has to have rpm's to operate. I have owned it for a few years. How would I go about checking the brake pot,and what and where is it lol.I don't have a hydraulic pressure gauge but will acquire one if needed.
Please see page 3 of this thread, in regards to the brake POT.
Bush- as an add to more information, the New Holland Dozers in that vintage are rebranded Case's, so they should also take the same joystick. I've been told the Case dealers won't talk to you if a New Holland owner comes in and it takes for ever to get parts thru the New Holland dealer. It was almost a year to get a dash for mine. My dealer kept getting a run around about when it was going to get there and then they got hammered for double what the original cost was when they got it. Fortunately for me, they'd agreed to replace the dash as part of my buying the unit, so I wasn't affected too much by all that.
I have an 850K XLT cab machine that is giving me a similar problem as the original poster. No fault codes can be read and only the NO CAN shows up with the machine hours and NS hrs. Also the yellow hyd warning symbol shows up when key is on and or machine is started. jpystcik does not function and gear selection needle does not move. Checked the safety levers with the left one showing both green and orange but right does not show green unless messed with. I assuming its just and led issue since the lever functions as it should? I checked all fuses and am going to go back and replace with all new fuses since thats cheap and easy. The next thing I found was that my deutsch 9 pin is as follows: key off: C&D read 116 ohms so inline resistor seems good. key on: B is 0.0volts, C is 2.9 volts and D is 1.5 volts. Not sure why Im not getting power to B? Also I should mention that we had a no can issue about 4 years ago and we replaced the joystick controller which solved the problem then. I would hope with less than 300 hrs since then it would not have went bad again.
Got it figured out, well the no can part anyway. Turns out when I replaced the relay for the travel control (first thing I did) and plugged the new one back in, it did not connect to one of the spade connectors that had pushed out the back of the mounting block. Still dont have any voltage reading on B at the 9 pin connector though. But dozer is running and moving as it did before the no can problem.
Bush_S2k, have you been able to successfully repair one of those joysticks yet? I have two from a case 650K series 3 I could get you to work one of them.
I was looking for some case---ZF diagnostic harnesses and testers and a link came up for this thread . Had to read it . Your the man GaryHoff..
Can some one help me. I have been reading this post and mine is doing same thing and can figure it out