Looks like I probably need to rebuild the cylinders on my backhoe. Is there any forum favorite vendors for brake parts? I can't seem to find much for the later 580SE brakes. I did check the Case dealer, and it just about made me pass out. Also, is there anything special to bleeding the brakes on this machine? Garret
looks like $502 each just for aftermarket slave cylinders. Surely there is another way? Garret
I can't help but wonder if there is a chance the equalizer valve could be stuck open, and that's why we can't develop any pressure to bleed the system? Does anyone here have experience bleeding the brakes on a Case 580E?
Well, I managed to get the left side bled and working good. However the right side will not develop pressure and maintain it. After a while it just goes back down to the floor. It seems typical for leaking brake hydraulics, however there is something strange happening, and I don't know if its related to the cause, or just the result. With the left side working good now, if I pump up the right side, it will work ok for a while, maybe 5 minutes. However, if I press the left side at all, then the right looses all of it's pressure. My suspicion is that is just how the system behaves and nothing is wrong, other than bad seals on the right side. Anybody have any ideas? Anyone here ever bled brakes before on a backhoe? Garret
Apparently there is not even a single manufacturer of aftermarket brake cylinders or rebuild kits for the late 580SE or early 580K backhoe, leaving the dealer the only option. Bummer.
Try Brokentractor dot com, what you don't see on there web page you can get by calling them.
Brakes are fixed! It was all a matter or adjustment. Apparently the previous owner must have felt it was a hydraulic problem, and let a lot of air in the system. We bled it a week or so ago, but it wasn't until after I got the floor out and cleaned off 2 inches of dirt that I could get to things and really see what was going on with the actuators. It was pretty clear what was happening. So I took the cylinders apart anyway, just to check and clean them out, and they looked good inside, hardly any sign of wear or rust. I'm very happy, considering the replacement cost for new master/slave cylinders was going to run near $1,700. Now moving on to the parking brake. Oh, one thought I have is to cut the floor in two, so that the front half could be more easily removed for working on the brakes, linkages or transaxle in the future. Anyone ever done that sort of thing? It look like it would be easy to do, right under the seat. It was sure a bitch to get it out in one piece. Garret
I have worked my whole career (50+) yrs for a Case dealer in the service department. In all those years I have never taken the floorboards up to work on the brakes. Brakes can be easily adjusted by stripping the green boots up and using hand tools and the cylinders can be removed and replaced from underneath. Floorboard removal is harder than working from the bottom up.
Melben, I appreciate your thoughts and advice, and I have no doubt it is correct. But it came down to this: I haven't worked in a Case dealer for 50+ years, and I couldn't see what was going on from underneath, and I have no one to give me any help or advice, including after posting 5 times in this very thread on this forum with zero replies offering any help on my brake problems. So I did what I had to do and thankfully discovered that I did not need to spend $1,700 on brake cylinders. Plus, taking up the floor allowed me to sandblast and repaint the floor, as well as disassemble, clean, repaint and lubricate the hand brake lever which was pretty rusted up. Also, there was a roughly 2 inch thick layer of dirt on top of the transaxle, and multiple mouse nests in the cabin frame channels, and taking out the floor was the only way I could see to clean all of that crap out. I probably will cut it in two though, just to make it easier next time, cause I know there will be a next time. Garret
I have no idea what your case cylinders look like, BUT you can have brake cylinders sleeved. Used to have it done on Jaguar cylinders, lot cheaper than new cylinders. http://www.karpspb.com/sleeving.htm http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181130
Joe, that's exactly what I would do before I bought new ones at $500 each. I can do it myself, if I want to spend the time on the lathe, but would probably send them off. They look like they would be easy to sleeve, as they are steel castings and carefully machined, probably why they cost so much. However, there is nothing wrong with them, after taking them out they look very nice. I didn't measure with a micrometer, but I'd say they have a whole lot of life left in them. Like I mentioned, the whole problem turned out to be adjustment, compounded with a sloppy bleed job. Garret
Garrett, I have a MF50 hoe with 2 Girling master cylinders. Same identical master cyls are on just about every British car made in the 50 & 60s. Massey wants $300+ for them, available online for $60 at any race supplier. Every dune buggy and formula car uses the same cylinders. Guess Massey just figure screwing their customers every time they can is good business. Joe H
I know what you mean, as 'm pretty familiar with the Girling cylinders, having owned a Land-Rover for almost 35 years. Many of those as a dialy driver. I think I could rebuild the single circuit ones in my sleep. However I have yet to figure out if there is a common cousin for the case cylinders on my backhoe, they do not look anything like Girling. But, for now, its no problem, because they seem fine. Now im off to find a parking brake cable. $95 at the dealer. But I really want the parking brake to work. Garret
Garret,. Glad you were successfull at gettin going. Removing the floorboards does have the cleaning up advantage. I have cut the rear floorplate in the l and m series hoes to keep- from having to remove the seat so im not dead set against it. Mel
I bought my master cylinders from Joseph Industries . easy to deal with on the phone and affordable price.