Does anyone know where I can get the service manual for Case A-336-BD engine? I have seen service manuals for the turbo version (A-336-BDT) but not for the naturally aspirated engine. I am doing an overhaul on this A-336-BD cubic inch engine and want to make sure I cover everything as well as use the correct torque specifications. This engine is out of a 1981 Case 850b crawler bulldozer. In addition to the Case A-336-BD engine service manual, any help or advice with this overhaul is greatly appreciated.
I have it in a .pdf document. I can email it to you but, you have to have three posts in the forums before your email address is accessible to the members. Do some looking in the tractor/loader/backhoe forum for 336 info. and its twin the 301 engine.
Thanks Tinkerer! Please send the PDF of the Case 336bd engine service manual to my email of determin3d1@yahoo dot com I greatly appreciate your help!!!
Your manual is on it's way. 132 pages will take a while to download. When you get the email create a folder on you desktop and save all the files to it. After doing that you will be able to scroll the pages. In the email you can only view one page at a time. No scrolling.
Thank you so much Tinkerer! I received it. Any advice on main bearings being spun? Is there a way to fix them or get them to hold up for about 1,000 hours or so? I certainly don't want to spend the money on purchasing a new block. The ones I have seen are $3,000 plus. Unless someone knows where some used 336BD engine blocks are for cheaper than that. Any help with this is greatly appreciated!!!
The only way to repair a spun main bearing in a machine that old is different block. If the crankshaft can be reground just get a used block. If it can't be you will have to get a used engine. Here is link to a member who had the same problem. → HeavyEquipmentForums I have never done it, but you could get a 301 block or used motor and rebuild it with the 336 sleeves and pistons.
As far as doing an engine overhaul on this Case 336B engine, what should I replace in addition to what's provided in the complete engine overhaul kit? I will be having the crank remachined and the complete kit will include the front and rear main seals for that as well. I am also having the heads machined and reseated. Do I replace the injectors, water pump, thermostat, wrist pin bushings, cam shaft, etc.??? What else should be replaced to help prevent any other issues? Thanks
I would wait on the injectors and see how it runs. You will get new piston pins along with the pistons. I would also have new valve guides installed in the heads, new valve springs , a new or re-manufactured camshaft, new camshaft bearings, new valve lifters. Any machine shop can make a camshaft bearing tool. If you have one made have the small side three times the width of the bearing. The reason is that you can scribe a line on it for a reference to the oil hole position in the bearing. It is quite aggravating to install a cam bearing and have the oil hole rotated and not have the block passage and bearing shell hole in perfect alignment. When you remove the cam bearings pay particular attention to the order they come out. They are not all the same width and the oil holes have differences in them. I had installed a cam bearing in a 301 and only had 1/2 the oil hole when it was installed in the correct position. I simply welded an extension on a drill bit and opened it up. Needless to say a through cleaning of the block was done again. Take lots of photos before removing parts, especially the connecting rods and main bearing caps.
You can have that block line bored on a main bearing spun. I would replace the engine oil cooler, injection pump serviced, check the lower area for sleeve sealing o rings surfaces, check the top deck for sleeve height, (Note check sleeves for shims and number the sleeves if reusing) always check the deck height first with out the sleeve o rings installed when building it back. May need a rear wear sleeve and a front wear sleeve for the damper pulley. The reason for the oil cooler and injection pump, both have lube oil going threw them. Pump should be pulled down and cleaned and oil cooler trashed. This would also go for a turbo and a air compressor if used, replace or service them.
Another thing is to pay particular attention to is the two thurst bearings on the crankshaft - their position and the front (face) of them. You will not get new ones in an overhaul kit and you will most likely not get the rear main bearing seal either. You shouldn't need a sleeve puller, just a brass or aluminum round bar and givem a couple of whacks with authority !
Thanks Sheepfoot and Tinkerer. I will take your advice. Greatly appreciated.
Glad to help. Keep us up to date on your progress. Any more questions keepem coming.
Been there and done that and would never do it again, we finally repowered our C model with a 5.9 cummins and it was the best thing we did. I'd be concerned about the balancer assembly and why the main spun before tossing money at it. As for line boring it, around here that hasn't been all that successful, I know of three back to back that spun the main again on start up after putting all the money into them. We overhauled ours and within two years we were back into it and decided to kill the 336 project, take our loss's and jerk it out and install a 5.9 instead, identical to what was in the D model, ironically when we got done, I had less in it than the money spent on the 336. I had to do some fabricating and ended up without a muffler because I didn't want to cut a new hole in the hood, but with a straight pipe it sure sounds nice.
A336bd manual can you email me a copy of that same manual [email protected] thanks
Check your email inbox mortonfire. It is a big and slow file to download because I didn't put it in a .zip file. From my previous post -----> "Your manual is on it's way. 132 pages will take a while to download. When you get the email create a folder on your desktop and save all the files to it. After doing that you will be able to scroll the pages. In the email you can only view one page at a time. No scrolling."
Tinkerer, can you send me a copy of this manual for 336BD engine as well? Cfabien at gmail dot com Thanks much!
Welcome to HEF Cfabien ! Check your email. I changed the capitol "C" to a small c in the email address you posted. I don't think capitol letters are allowed in email addresses. If you don't get it let me know.
Hello Tinkerer Can you please send me that 336bd engine manual copy? Thank you very much in advance summerpassenger @ gmail .com
Mike, Gmail says it does not recognize your email address. Then I removed the spaces in the address you posted to summerpassenger@gmail .com and it still does not recognize the address and will not send it.
Hey Mike, I tried again and it appears that you should get it. Let me know. I can put it in a zip file and try to send it that way if the first try doesn't go through.
Yes, i received it, perfect Than you so much man
You are welcome Mike ! The manual covers the Case 267B, 301B, 336BD, 336BDT, and 401B engines if anyone has one of those motors and need the manual.
hi Mr. tinkerer, could you send me the manual for the 336BDT pdf too? i will appreciate it. thanks in advance my e-mail: [email protected]
Check your mailbox Mr. Ahumada !
got it, thank you!
You are welcome. Thanks for letting me know that you received it !
Hi everyone! I am overhauling an A336BD in a loader for a customer and was wondering if anyone would be able to send me a copy of the manual. I am having trouble tracking one down. Any help would be greatly appriciated.
Welcome to HEF, Dennis ! Start a PM (private message) with me. Put your email address in it and I will send the service manual to you. I will be offline until later today.
hey any chance i could also get that manual i need a bunch or torque specs we are redoing the head gasket my email is [email protected] i would very appreciate that the engine is a 336bd
Manual sent, mmdalevb ! Check your email inbox.
Could you email me a copy to [email protected]
Welcome to HEF, Hank ! Check your email inbox. The manual covers the 267B and 401B also.
Could you send me the manual as well. My email is [email protected] .
Welcome to HEF, Don ! Check your inbox. The manual should be in it.
Thanks, I got it.
Very generous of you to keep emailing this out, thank you! You might want to consider putting that up on dropbox or something, and posting it up in our "service manual trading post"
Thanks ! I did consider putting service manuals on a public hosting site. But, I am concerned about copyright issues. My gmail account limits file sizes to 25MB. Some of the service manuals I have are 3 times that size. I can extract pages from them like the 336 manual and email them with no problems.
Hi can you send me the manual too please. [email protected]
Welcome to HEF Dale ! Check your email inbox. If you have an ebay account you can get a digital copy of the complete service manual on ebay for $17.95 US. ----> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Backh...381600?hash=item216250c660:g:TdgAAOSwmfhcTcXw The parts book is online here. ----> https://partstore.casece.com/us/par...5be868f1698b703d&sl=EN¤cy=#epc::mr59183
Tinkerer. Can you send me a the manual as well. [email protected] . Looking for some guidance on the procedure to pull the injection pump off. Some bad fuel has reared havoc with it and cleaning on the machine is tough. Thanks
an easy "side note" to pulling the pump off is..if its the in-line 4cyl. pump.?? Remove the side cover on the pump.. rotate the engine IN THE CORRECT ROTATION & look inside at the #1 tappet.. wait for it to START TO RISE.. THATS #1 compression stroke.. Then.. follow the book for timing * setting before pulling it..
Thanks for the info. It's pouring today so tomorrow after work I'll get into it. My number 1 plunger is stuck and from the fuel that the previous owner was running before I cleaned out the tank I'm certain why. It is a 4 cyl. so I'll use the above advice.
The crankshaft damper must be at 32° BDTC.
Welcome to HEF Grippo ! Check your email inbox. Oops ! The manual says 35° BTDC when setting the injection timing.
Hello Tinkerer, Would you mind sending over the A-336-BD manual over to my email: btcon at telus.net? We took apart the engine and we can't time it . Thank you in advance!
Welcome to HEF BBlac ! Check your email inbox. If you have problems there are quite few members here that can/ will help you.
when you take a 336 out how much changing do you have to do like fit at rad and fly wheel to tourque to put 5.9 cummins in
What are you putting it in? If its going into a case dozer, say 850 size, it just fits. The changing comes to machine the flywheel to fit the flex plate and to weld nuts onto the flex plate so you can bolt the engine to the transmission. The radiator is fit last so the fan blades just miss the radiator when its running and the radiator shroud lines up correctly, if I recall, we might have had to make a new shroud but I'd have to look for sure. If its a dozer retrofit for a 5.9 I can help you out somewhat, I've done one a few years ago, its not that hard, but there are a few critical things you need to know before hand and the flywheel is vital.
its a 5.9 housing is out of truck stater on wrong side, what housing did you use on dozer about 21 in cummins about 18 thanks
it is 850c case dozer any info would be helpful thanks
First off if its out of a truck, same as mine was, did the engine have an automatic transmission behind it when it was in a truck?? If so depending on which allision it was, there is a thickness puck on the end of crankshaft that needs to be taken off before you do anything else. Next, depending on what or if the torque converter is the original or has had something different put in will depend on what bell housing you need. 3.9 and the 5.9 engines take the same bell housings and flywheels, if the torque converter is original or a direct replacement for what was in the dozer originally, what you need for a bell housing and flywheel will come off of a 1845C case skid steer and bolt right up, now the flywheels for the skid steer, they made at least two different ones over the years, maybe even three, only one will work for the flex plate on the torque converter. I never took pictures or got a serial number to know which one you'll need, but by looking you can tell pretty close, most salvage yards can get both the bell housing and flywheel you'll need. To help tell which flywheel, one if I recall had a ridge around the outside of the flywheel and one was flat with a slight taper towards the center, the flat face one with no ridge is the one you need. If I recall, the flex plate is bolted to the flywheel on the case engine and the bolts go in from the torque converter side, on the cummins the bolts have to go in from the engine side through a side cover on the left side of the engine I believe and in order to make it work, nuts have to be welded on the the flex plate because there is no cover on the backside of the cummins flywheel to put the nuts on after the bolts are installed. Now for the technical parts, the bell housing needs to be bolted onto the engine, flywheel installed, flex plate bolted onto the torque converter ready to bolt engine to torque. Either you or a machinist needs to measure exactly the distance from the flex plate to the torque housing, and the same from the bell housing to the face of the flywheel, then machine down the flywheel so they are PRECISE when they are bolted together, can't recall right off how many thousands need to be machined off the face of the flywheel to make it work. That is the only critical part of the whole deal, no other flywheel will work according to cummins to get that engine to bolt to that torque converter, if I recall, the d model 850 has a different torque in it to bolt to the cummins that came factory in that dozer. Now be for warned, there can be absolutely no end pressure on the crankshaft of the cummins engine, so if you screw up with the measurement and machine off either too little or too much and end up with some end pressure on the crank, the engine will lock up upon starting it once in the dozer and more or less spin the main bearings instantly. The rest is pretty simple and straight forward once the engine is bolted to the torque, then its just a matter of making the engine mounts to fit the cummins, install the accessories on the engine, then depending on which injection pump is on the engine, you might have to bolt some shims under the left front side cover so the injection lines don't rub due the pump sticking out a little more on the cummins than the case. Depending on how far you have the dozer torn apart, it would also be a good idea to put the old engine back in, bolt the torque up and take measurements so the torque is the same distance from the transmission once you have the cummins in, also take a measurement of the height of the drive shaft from somewhere so the angle is the same with the cummins. I'd have to look, but I think the driveshaft runs level from the torque to the transmission, can't recall the distance from the torque converter to the transmission right off hand either. I converted the dozer from 24 volt to 12 volt when we did the engine swap, since 12 volt starters were a dime a dozen and 24 volts were high priced and scarce. I'm not sure what else I can help with, if you can't find a bell housing off a skid steer, I think any bell housing off most any case backhoe with a 3.9 cummins in it, is the same bell housing, but don't quote me on that, I've done quite a few repowers over the years and I might be getting engines confused somewhat on parts. If you have any other questions, let me know, I'll help do what I can, it just might take me a while to get back to you, we're really busy right now.
Also forgot to mention, if the dozer has a reversible fan on the case engine and you want to keep that on the cummins engine, you need to know the distance from the fan to the radiator, this is important because as you turn the fan blades around, the blade itself actually gets closer to the radiator, that measurement is critical to know because if you don't have the measurement from the transmission to the torque converter exact from when the old case engine was installed and keep it the same when the cummins in installed, you can't turn the fan blades around once the radiator is installed due to not having enough room in the engine compartment. My dozer had a reversible fan on it, they all do and I use and love them and refused to give it up, so to make a long story short, the distance from the fan blades to the radiator was reduced to the bare minimum in order to keep the reversible fan on the cummins engine and still get everything to fit under the hood. If you look at and measure a D model 850, the measurements won't be the same as a C model, most all D's were long track, meaning they had one more bottom roller under them making the engine compartment slightly longer to make everything fit better and have more room to work with. Not sure what truck this engine came out of, but you'll more than likely need to turn the oil pan around in order to get it to fit over the cross member of the dozer frame, then you'll also need to buy a different oil pickup tube as well and just turn the pan itself around. If it has a deep oil pan from a truck, you'll also need to torch out some of the belly pan gussets on one section of belly pan to get them to fit back up on and the oil drain hole will no longer line up with the one in the belly pans. The dip stick tube needs to be shortened as well and cut off the dip stick and etch a new oil level mark on the shortened dip stick, that and you'll need to move the dipstick tube to a different hole to fit into the oil pan once you flip the pan around, then replug the old tube hole. Once done I cut a square hole in the lower side panel and made it into a hinged door to get at the dip stick to check the oil, the reason the longer tube won't work is the truck version has a wider arch and it won't fit under the hood once the engine is in, a short cut off version then fits under the injection pump and is out of the way of everything, but you need the hole in the lower side panel to use it and be able to pull the dipstick out. Later versions that came from the factory with the 5.9 in, had a longer tube mounted through and around the injection pump and you pulled them from a cover in the top of the hood or the H model had a whole side panel flip up to access the dipstick. Most any injection pump guy can change over the governor on the injection pump to make it work instead of truck governor to a machine governor and also ask that person how to adjust the governor for idling once its in the dozer in order to get it to idle down fast so you can shift the dozer, they work fine, just takes some adjusting to get it to work right. If I recall the exhaust manifold we just flipped over so the exhaust sticks up instead of down but won't line up with the pipe going out of the hood. I just made an adapter that slipped over the exhaust manifold that had an offset in it that lined up the exhaust to the old pipe in the hood, was simpler than dinking around with the hood to get it to line up, also if you ruin or damage the hood, any hood off any older case 850 will then work and just bolt right on. I also don't have a muffler on mine, its just a straight piped up and out of the engine compartment. The D and later models have a muffler that attaches to the manifold and a larger hole is cut into the hood to accommodate it, newer versions still have a small muffler under the hood, on a C model you won't have the room to make this work unless you cut a hole in the hood and mount it directly onto the manifold like the D model or flex pipe it out and mount the muffler along the limb risers or something like that. I wear hearing protection anyhow, so I didn't take the time to worry about a muffler and still don't have one, the six cylinder cummins sounds really nice under a load the way it is. You'll need your injection pump guy reset the pump and injectors down to have 90-100 hp, much more and you'll tear the torque and transmission up, think mine is in that 100 hp mark and runs really nice. You'll lose your tachometer when you do the swap, the case was a mechanical drive and if you want, you can get the electric drive off the alternator and switch the gauge in the dash, but it didn't matter to me. You'll need an adapter to switch the hose ends from the case pressure switch which is standard pipe thread to either metric off the cummins or vise versa, I just had a hose made up to fit the pressure switch on one end and a metric to fit the engine oil galley on the other end, so the hour meter and gauges will work right. The wiring is pretty simple as well, just make up a new harness to go from the alternator to the dash through the pressure switch, we just mounted the circuit breakers which will be on the right side of the old engine, and bolted them up near the dash when we put the cummins in. I'd have to look again how it was done but if you get an alternator that is self exciting, like most trucks have, it eliminates a lot of wiring and headaches. If I recall, I just took the alternator that came with the cummins in and my fix it guy switched it over to self exciting and put new bearings and went through it for me. If the truck had air brakes and an air pump on it, we just took the pump off and bolted a plate over the hole with a gasket, looks factory installed when it was done. For future reference, that cam drive for the air compressor on the cummins, is much cheaper to put a new hydraulic pump on rather than use the old hydraulic pump off the torque converter, also a whole lot easier to work on and get to verses the one on the torque converter or if you need it for a winch drive or something along those lines in the future. Best of luck, it sounds a whole lot more detailed than it really is, the main things to bear in mind are the measurements you'll need before you begin. My issues came when we were part way done and the sheets of paper those measurements were on, got lost and nobody could remember them exactly, so we put the old case engine back in to get them the second time and then wrote them in marker on one of the side panels, but those were painted over once the engine was done and working.
the engine is out of a 1992 dodge diesel standard no flexplate flywheel thanks flex plate on 850c dozer
and thanks very much
Dear Tinkerer, I'm also in need of a service manual for the Case 336 engine & ran across this post in my search. Would you please be so kind as to send me a copy of this service manual as well? If you could I'd be externally grateful to you sir. My email address is [email protected] My thanks, Wes
Check your email inbox westek !
Is the original case engine not repairable ? It sounds like a lot of work .
Those engines were notorious for cavitation at the bottom of the sleeves, which by itself is not a big deal and can be fixed by counter boring the block and pressing in a new insert. As far as I know, the engine balancer on those engines are obsolete and once worn out, the engine is basically junk. The 336 by itself was a great engine, with the balancer that was on it, it idled much slower than most four cylinder engines did and was basically vibration free, which made for shifting in the dozer smooth, it also had the ability to do slopes of up and over 70 degree's and not starve the engine for oil. When case quit providing parts and especially the balancer for that engine, most would not be willing to bore, press inserts into the block and rebuild them if in say 100 hours later the balancer went bad and then be forced to repower the dozer with something else anyhow. I'd been around a few 850's repowered with the 3.9 cummins and for some reason due to only about one version of the 3.9 being able to do slopes of not quite 70 degree's and the fact it shook more and idled just a couple hundred rpm's more, shifting wasn't as nice and smooth as it is with a 5.9. It gets to the point in time, is the dozer worth the upgrade, in my machine, the transmission was rebuilt a few hundred hours before, new undercarriage was installed at that same time, one final was gone through and the torque was done all at the same time frame or there about. So one final to go and was the 336 going to last another 8-10k hours?? I didn't think so, found a 5.9 for a couple grand, which was a fraction of what I'd have in the old 336 once all said and done, so what the heck, spend a few months off and on in the winter and repower it a known engine I could get parts for and have a really great reputation, then instead of only have one or two 336's left in my fleet, one less and only one more 5.9 or about a dozen of them in total now, so why not update. The dozer as it sat with a bad 336 was scrap price the way it was, with a 5.9 in it will run a long time and if needing overhauled, done pretty cheap when needed. If the rest of the dozer was worn out end to end, I'd have never bothered with doing the repower, just found a newer version 850 with a 5.9 already in it and rebuilt that dozer instead. Guess its a personal call and what you want to do and how you want to spend to your time. Myself I had about three local guys who'd done the repowers over the years with both the 3.9 and 5.9, one is a rep for cummins and still is today, so I had everyone and everything I needed locally to help advise me and also answer questions on what does or doesn't work. Most everything I typed is what I was told, so I just passed on the information. I've repowered other machines with 5.9's out of trucks or bus's mostly and had great luck doing it so far, have a few more to do even if I ever get around to it, but unlike this dozer, those machines are still in debate if they are worth doing the repower or not. If I stumbled across some used 5.9's in good shape and had some time over a winter, I'd probably do them, time will tell, and yes one involves another and my last 336 case. I also have my eye on a farmall M that I'd like to put either a 3.9 or 5.9 into, just because I could and I'd always wanted to do it and no other reason than its on my bucket list.
Hey Tinkerer, thanks for your quick response. Unfortunately the email you sent isn't showing up in my Yahoo inbox or spam folder so I'm going to give you my Gmail address instead. If you don't mind could you please resend it to me at: [email protected] Thank you my friend. Wes
Check your inbox Westek ! You should edit out your email address to prevent getting spam.
Got it! Thank you sir! Will follow your advice & edit. Thanks again! Wes
I think it is worth mentioning that the Case 336 and 301 engines are identical except for the cylinder bores. Also those motors were put in many thousands of farm tractors. So. when pursuing parts for them think outside the box and contact agricultural equipment salvage yards. The 401B engine shares the same service manual as the 336 and 301. I do not know if the 401 is interchangeable with the others. Perhaps someone reading this knows.
I only ever worked on the 451 fitted to the 1150b . We concidered repowering when we ran out of salvaged cylinder liners . They seemed to have a fast wear rate and sometimes cracked along the top flange . New liners had been stupid dear until the internet came along . I got a kit from agkits about 12 years ago but it has hardly done 1000 hours ,since ,reciession and all . Prior to that it would have averaged 400 or 500 hours a year. But it is a lovely machine and starts on the button since . Prior to that it was a bstrd to start since I was a nipper.
Most ag salvage yards never have used parts on those four cylinder engines. The case 870 tractor had the 336 in it, the 770 ran a four cylinder in it as well, but I've never seen a diesel 770, only gas models were in my area, many really nice tractors with not many hours on them were scrapped due to bad engine balancers and nothing and nobody could get those balancers new or used once case discontinued the balancer. The 336 also had for some reason somewhat of a reputation of spinning main bearings after an overhaul, not sure if it was an issue with cheap aftermarket parts exactly or why the reason, but quite a few local people had issues with a main spinning after an overhaul. So there were plenty of horror stories of spending thousands on an overhaul to only end up repowering the dozer with a cummins anyhow. The ag side would pay a hefty core price to get the balancer after the mains were spun to help recoup some of the cost of the overhaul. That's the reason many went the route of repowering them right off the bat. Why spend money on an overhaul when you could get most of the used cummins cost out of the old case 336 for a core?? I don't know if salvage yards have a need for the cores anymore or not or if demand has fallen completely away for those parts by now, but when I did my repower, there was still demand on both the ag and construction side for those parts. With the internet today, I'm sure there is demand somewhere by someone who's needing the parts, if by nobody else, guys doing restoring type work on both the ag and construction side.
Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff is always looking for cores..1-800-428-8183 or e-backhoeparts.com
I just picked up a basket case ‘78 w14 with the A336BD motor and in search of a service manual for it Any help would be very much appreciated my e-mail is [email protected]
Check your email inbox Old School LB !
hello can i get a maual sent currently overhauling a 336 bd would like to know the torque specs and patterns also thanks
Welcome to HEF, Craig ! Send me your email address in a PM (private message). I will then send you an invitation to download it from my Google Drive.
Hello tinker any chance I can get the service manual as well please . Just picked up a old case w14h that needs an engine rebuild. My email is [email protected]
Welcome to HEF, Three walkers farm ! Check your email inbox. Let me know if you were able to download it.
tinkerer I got it I really appreciate this thanks much.
Hello, do you have time to send manuals again? Thank you, [email protected]
Yes I do !
Thank you very much kind sir!
Hello, was looking threw here a saw were you had a pdf file for the case 336b motor. Looking for a lil help on the timeing of the counter balance shafts on the engine oil pump. Oil pump gears are timed to the crankshaft. I’ve got a parts book but no service. My email is. [email protected] Thx for ur time and help. Chris allen
Check your email inbox, Chris !
Hi Tinkerer!! I sent you a message!! Hoping your still willing to share your pdf service manual for the case 336BD ENGINE (non-turbo). Thanks again!!
Check your email inbox.
Is there a chance I can get a copy of this manual? About to rebuild one of these for our w14 pod cab. JHaines080630 at yahoo dot com
If this thread is still active is there any chance that someone can share a copy of the manual with me Chrillex16 at Gmail dot com
Look into your email inbox !
Hoping someone could share with me the service Manuel for a Case 336BD as well. The timing is a little tricky on the pumps. Any help is appreciated!! Bill My email is gulanderos at gmail dot com
Welcome to HEF, Landeios Check your email inbox messages.
Hello. Got 780 backhoe with 336BDT. Anyone knows if this engine can be replaced with another one? One of the Main bearing caps broke half.
Another 336 or something else ?
Do you know any other engine that fit? 336 really hard to find.
A 301 would be a simple bolt in swap. It has little less horsepower but a doubt it would be problem. You can find both engines in agricultural salvage yards. Here is link to a salvage yard that probably has one. Home - Schaefer Enterprises sewlparts.com And another one. Vander Haag's Inc. | Home Vander Haag's is your destination for high quality new and used truck parts, semi truck salvage, trucks, trailers, equipment and service. Give us a call today. www.vanderhaags.com
Tinkerer, I'm working on a Case a336bd engine as well, and wondered if you would be willing to send me a copy of the service manual? My email is herbelfarmer at gmail dot com.
Welcome to HEF, integrity23 ! Sure, No problem !
Thanks, Tinkerer
Is there anyway I can get a copy of that manual? My email is [email protected] Also if you need any $$ as a donation or anything I greatly would send you some for helping out. I just bought a machine with a 336 in it and it’s slowly weeping coolant into the oil so I wanna fix it but need torque specs ect. Any help is greatly appreciated
Hello tinkerer .Can you share your service manuals . [email protected]
Yes
Hey Tinkerer, I was wondering if I could get a copy as well. Slowly gathering parts to rebuild my engine later this winter. Email address removed as Tinkerer suggested.
Welkom to HEF unhingedfarmer8 ! Of course ! I would advise you to ask one of the forum moderators to remove your email address from you post.
Hey man, could I get that manual as well if you’re still active? [email protected]
Check your email inbox for a link to my Google Drive.