Hi everybody im new on here and would like to find out any information that i can about this case poclain 220ckb i am looking at purchasing. Are they known to be good machines?.. can we still get parts for them fairly easy? What kind of engin is in it? What control pattern do they have? What year is it? The serial number is 0220 05 96 74 559 If anyone can offer any information or opinions i would really appreciate it. I am also wondering what kind of money it is really worth thanks
I am also wondering how much it weighs
They ran a Deutz V10 engine FIOL413F. I liked the machine and it performed well. They used a radial piston constant flow pump. They had some hyd leaks, mostly caused by not tightening connections correctly after having a leak, they are a high pressure machine. I have not been around one in 15 years so you would need to contact a dealer and see what they say for getting parts. Control pattern can be switched for the levers if needed. The B came out around 1985 and should be painted power tan and power brown. The weight was between 95,000 and 100,000 lbs. depending on the stick and bucket size, counterweight is around 16,000 pounds. Value is all over the board when looking to buy big equipment. I would carry a wrench man and a second set of eyes, run it some. Machines of this size do not handle and respond like 20-50,000 pound machines. The 220 was rated at around 2 1/2 yards heaped. They had good lifting power also.
Thanks so much sheeps foot for the reply that is very helpful. Im going to go give it a good look over on Monday and run it a bit. Unfortunately where it is located i won't be able to dig with it. The machine only has 3700 hours on it and appears to be in excellent condition for its age. Is there anything in particular that i should be watching out for when i go look at it?
Big thing is take your time and check it out. Some things are a deal breaker when i look at used equipment. What is the work planned for this machine? pit/farm/water and sewer work. What is the ground conditions your working in and do you have the means to haul/move it around. Some areas you have to drop the counterweight and or stick and bucket do to the weight laws and bridges. Track chain pin and bushings, lower rollers, final drive oil levels/leaks, swing bearing movement/wear.This machine has two swing gear boxes with swing gears that swing the machine. Gauges work, engine oil pressure and temp gauges work. Oil cooler fan motors working. General engine oil leaks.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I will give it a thorough look over. That was one of the first things i will look at is the track chain pins and bushings. The guy i have lined up to haul it says it should be a problem unless it is wider than 12 ' then he needs a pilot car. I would be using it for a construction job i have coming up that is out in the woods with plenty of room. I would be doing all the excavation work for a new home with a shop and a barn with roads, sewer, water, and electrical trench s. There is a lot of dirt to move so i thought this would be a good machine to do it with. If it is ready to go to work with out having to do a bunch of mechanical work. The price seems fair at 35k...i think... what are your thoughts?
Sounds to me like a 9030B for $25,000 would be a much better machine for you. JMHO.
Thanks for all the input!! Do you know or remember how to switch the control pattern on this machine? I checked it out today and liked it but was hard to get a good feel for it because it was a different pattern than i am used to....i only know the john deer pattern the undercarriage was in great shape could hardly see any wear on the track chain pins and bushings. The current owner said he thought it had a high and low switch for the controls to move slow and then faster but i could not figure it out. Have you ever heard of that option? It ran very smooth no major leaking
Or anything made by Cat, Hitachi/Deere, Komatsu, Kobelco, etc. Hate to be negative when I don't know any of the particulars of the machine or your situation, but I would sure do some comparison shopping before I bought this machine for 35K. Look on the Ritchie Bros Auctioneers site for sales results and I think you will find lots of excavators in the early to mid 2000's with 7000-10,000 hours in this price range, and the bigger they are the cheaper they are as they get older. I would be very skeptical of any machine that is 30 years old having only 3700 hours. And if the hours are accurate, it would make me wonder what it was about it that made previous owners let it sit in the yard rather than be out on jobs racking up the hours. If it was $7500 or $10,000, and you thought you could pay for it on one job I would probably take the risk, but I think you are going to be upside down in it from the start, and the first major repair will leave you wishing you had gone a different direction. Sorry for being so negative, hope whatever you do works out. Brian
Thanks Brian no worries i appreciate any advice. I was wrong on the price. The owner is asking 15k...he said he is the third owner the first owner was BLM and just didn't get used much . Apparently it went to auction and sold to a contractor that used it on a few jobs then sold it to the current owner who has had it for 15 years. He is a demolition contractor who would only use it for pulling out old foundations. The undercarriage looks solid though i would really like to figure out how to switch over the control pattern so i can runn it with what i am used to
Well I ended up getting the machine and will be having it hauled next week I think it will work out well for me I would post some pictures but am not sure how
Can anyone give me some advice on switching the controls? Right now the right stick controls the main boom up and down but I am used to it being on the left. It doesn't seem like there is a lever like with newer machines
Reeves mate, i understand the situation you're in with the controls feeling alien, however if you are likely to run more excavators of this class might be worth biting the bullet and getting familiar with it as it is: Rather than changing over everything in all your future machines? To change yours, you should be able to change the pilot hoses around- you can do this on the main valve bank. Alternatively you may be able to swap hoses about under the cab if there are unions in the hoses under there, you could remove the panel from underneath and have a look. The other way would be to pull the pilot hoses down out of the joysticks and reroute them left for right, possibly not the easiest job to do, they usually snake tightly around the seat and base in a cable tied harness or suchlike. Best of luck, looks like fun to me! Lovely old machine. Edit: Check out the thread on kobelco 160 going on at present, although a different machine it'll give you more insight.
Thanks John I will have to play with it a while and see if my brain is adjustable...i have been working on servicing he old beast and have noticed that on the buck cylinder and the stick cylinder there is a large dead spot where trying to operate them. It is pretty consistent like at least 4 seconds of no movement right about when the rod is halfway out . Any clue as to what this might be an indication of?? Also the swing occasionally will start to move on its own..... keep in mind this machine has been setting for about 4 years with the occasional start up to keep the juices flowing...
Gosh, that is quite a dead spot. Does it happen both in and out on the stroke, also are there boom/dipper/bucket positions where is consistently happens and where t doesn't happen? Do you have access to a 40 or 50 bar gauge and a 400 bar gauge (1bar =15psi approx) and test fittings etc. because personally I would connect the lower pressure gauge to the pilot test point under cab and the 400 gauge onto a pressure line wherever there is a fitting on the pump or the main valve bank, and be watching the pressures when putting it through various positions. You should be able to narrow down the area of the fault.
Thanks John the boom cylinders seem fine it's just the crowd and bucket cylinders I may be exaggerating a little on the 4 seconds but not much maybe 2 or 3. And when it's in the dead spot the rod is kind of sloppy. One of the two cylinders has a pretty good leak around the rod. I don't have any test gauges but can round some up im sure. I do have all the books so that should help a bit
Hi Reeves, the reference to the boom is not regarding it's set of rams, but it's use to position the other two rams ( ie on the dipper and bucket) in various positions including vertical (rod down), horizontal, and vertical (rod upwards) as you may have the dead spot in some positions or all. Combine this with pressure checks and you may be able to say with confidence"there is something odd going on inside the cylinders"!
But it sure sounds like you'll be repacking the seals in those cylinders before long! All the best, John.
I c yes I will try that also this machine has a heavy lifting option that is activated by a switch and solenoid that takes flow from the front two rams and routs it to the boom rams I wonder if that solenoid could be bad
I tried it today with the boom rams in several different positions and didn't notice any difference. I did notice that the front two rams never actually were "dead" they just moved very slow whenever gravity was not helping out
I was wrong about how the heavy lifting functions. I looked at the manual again and it just reduces the flow and increases the pressure to all the rams so it doesn't really fit into my theory of the solenoid being the problem
So does the dead spot occur in the dipper and bucket rams at the same time, and is it always at the same section of stroke? Does the dead spot happen if just curling and uncurling bucket on it's own, for example, and if only using dipper on it's own, is all ok or is the dead spot independent of the other functions? Hydraulic schematic study in your books, panels off, gauges on. Does it happen consistently if you hold joystick open steadily for one rams whole stroke, say at 1/4 open, 1/2 open, full open. Without using any other part of machine. Engine revs up around 3/4 power.
Have you measured pilot and main pressures yet, are they up nicely where your book says they should be?
Hi John sorry for the delayed response. I have not had a chance to measure the pressures yet. Both the bucket and armed cylinders were leaking pretty good so I figured I would start with getting those repaired first. The shop told me that there was nothing inside the cylinders that would indicate any dead spots. I talked to them today and apparently they and case are having trouble tracking down seal kits for the two rams would you happen to know where I might be able to round some up?
Hi Reeves, seal kits for these older poclain machines can be hard to track down. However, last couple times I repaired leaky poclain ram, I carefully took out old seals and travelled around a couple of different ram repair shops until I found someone who knew where to order (based on their dimensions). The rub strips and strong nylon backing pieces I didn't disturb, I just replaced the 3 main green seals (by memory they were green!?) and the o rings. For the hours these old machines do now, that seemed fine and anyway, it stopped them leaking. You may have to go to your ram shop and pick up the pieces, then locate other such shops and provide dimensions of seal until you find someone who knows how to order. Then take it back if you need to to get it rebuilt. Don't lose any of the parts or let them out of your sight! Not sure if this is helpful, but it's what I've had to do before. Best of luck John.
I ran a 1080B for over 5000 hrs growing up. I believe what you are describing is the hydraulic lag. I believe newer machines have what I've been told are regeneration valves to direct the return flow from the cylinders directly into the outgoing flow to keep everything full. What happens on these older machines is when you close the bucket or pull the arm in, gravity helps move the bucket or stick faster than the pump can fill it, and when you're extending the cylinders, it needs more oil to fill it than what's coming back. Just my $0.02.
Thanks John the shop is took them to are supposed to be really good. I will ask them to save the the old seals hopefully they didn't destroy them taking them out. Was it long ago when you rebuilt the poclain rams? Do you remember where you end up finding seals? Shimmyou. Yes it seems like it just doesn't have enough flow. I need to get some gauges and start figuring out some pressures. But first I need to get these rams back together . If anyone has a little secret on who to talk to about finding seals for this thing please let me know
Sorry Reeves, last time was maybe 10 years ago and the place I used is no longer there. However, a seal is a seal and if your shop can measure the things up, I'd be surprised if they don't exist in a book of seals somewhere.