Hey all, need some help with fuel shutoff solenoid. Wires coming from machine to solenoid red, white, and black. I have 12 volts on the white only with key on. connector of solenoid changes white to red, and red to white. Should there be voltage on the the red wire coming from machine? I don't hear or feel the solenoid clicking. FYI it's a brand new solenoid. I'm trying to chase the shutoff circuit to a relay. but un sure which one it is.
Post your serial number as I can look at the more than half a dozen schematics that are out there and all different. Welcome to HEF. Simon C
Thanks Simon, 6LZ00586
What Publication reference of electrical schematic are you using.? That illustration appears to be different to the one I'm looking at (RENR2863) which is applicable to all 6LZ-prefix machines up to Serial Number 999. Either way the wiring is pretty much the same. You will need to relate everything to the wire colours on the machine side of the connector for the fuel shutdown solenoid, as the pigtail colours are not shown on the schematic. The letters A, B, & C should be moulded into the 3-pin connector. Wire A309 GY (Pin A) is switched power from the key switch. It will only be there provided that the Charge Pressure Switch contacts are closed. Wire 200 BK (Pin C) is ground. Wire 327 PK (Pin B) comes from the fuel shutdown relay. This will be energized when the shutdown relay coil is pulled in by power on wire 306-E8 GN which initially comes from the "Start Relay" terminal (Pin 64) of the operator Interlock Control.
Nige, I was given RENR4826-03, And your right, my serial number requires RENR2863. I'll search for the correct schematic number.
No worries. I’ll send you a copy. Keep an eye on your message inbox.
Update: After some more diagnostic, I'm cranking but no start. I cracked injector line and it's pumping fuel. So fuel shut off solenoid is working correctly. Sprayed some ether and it sounds like it wants to start. it's been sitting a while, any idea's what to test next?
How long was it sitting, 6 weeks or 3 years. Could spray some WD40 into the air bonnet with 2 heat guns shooting hot air into it at the same time. If it fires up and stays running, then further troubleshoting of the glow plugs would be a good idea. You said there is lots of fuel coming out of injection lines, but cylinders could be dried out and need a little heat and extra compression from the oil. Need to try something. Simon C
Been sitting 2 years. I cracked the remaining injector lines and on had nothing on line 2 till about 10 seconds of cranking then had pressure. is there a easy way to purge air from lines? there is no pump on this machine. just 2 water separator filters.
Crack the injector lines at the injectors then crank it on the starter and tighten each one in turn as fuel sans bubbles comes out is the accepted way to do it. It may pay you to check if the FIP rack linkage is moving all the way to the max fuel position, even to the extent of moving the governor control lever on the pump by hand. As Simon already asked, have you proved the operation of the glow plugs yet.? Some info on the fuel system attached.
Bet you get the glow plugs working, it starts right up.
update: So 2 of the 4 glow plugs ohmed bad. I have 4 coming. Next question, I put a volt meter on the yellow wire that feeds the glow plug bus bar and went and turned key on. I didn't see any voltage. There is a relay with the yellow wire and verified that the relay was working as it should. In fact there are 3 large relays in the engine compartment on the left side and all 3 checked good. Is there a fuse or another relay as well? would it be the "cold start fuse shown in the schematic?
IIRC on the schematic there is a glow plug switch. It's marked "Switch - Cold Start". You need to have the key on and press that switch. Located in Grid D-2 on Page 6. The output from that switch on wire L987-WH is what pulls in the Cold Start relay. In the cab it should be located directly above the parking brake switch on the upper left panel.
What a properly repaired Battery box looks like, this one I charged customer under $200 for and dealer wanted $750 for lead connectors. Battery cable has more of a plastic coating on it that repels water more for 10 years down the road. Most of my customers are okay with welding cable. Spray some Moovit or Fluid Film on when done. Simon C
I replaced 4 glow plugs, verified there is 11 volts to the bus bar and still no start. I noticed the front 2 glow plugs stems were dry, and the 2 rear glow plugs the stems were covered in oil. So I'm thinking there is an issue the pistons or rings in the two rear cylinders. Like I said its been sitting for 2 years maybe stuck rings. Going to do a compression test when I find the adapter.
Pull the air filter and give the intake a bit of a spritz with WD40 if you have any. See if that gets it to light off. I think once you have started it the first time it should restart without too much trouble.
did you solve the issues
Nige, I will try that this evening. you have been right on every other questions I asked. I'll keep you posted.