Hey, went to look at a 267b today to purchase, got it started up, noticed none of the control panel lights were on, and it ended up not being able to disengage the brake and operate. Messed for an hour with the different safety sensors, seat, lap belt, door, etc. found that all seemed to be working fine. Then unplugged both ecu's under the floor and plugged them back in, and the lights came on. It would start fine, only the park brake light would be on, then you push the button to disengage, and the seat and brake light would start flashing. I'm assuming this is an ecu problem? Is there anything else to check? If not which ecu would be the problem, and which one does what? Thanks
How did you make the jump straight to ECU? As for no lights at key on, fuse panel integrity and harness integrity are suspect. I'd be inclined to check for obstructions under the seat, followed by evaluating the seat and safety bar sensors, for which you'll need a schematic...which in turn requires a serial number.
serial number is cyc01477 We checked the fuse panel, and the seat and safety bar sensors, nothing wrong. We got the lights working, as I said, they were originally not on with key on and running, but we unplugged and replugged both ecu's and then tried again and they came on, but now are flashing when running and try to disengage the parking brake.
That sounds like an issue with wiring or more likely the fuse/relay panel rather than an ECM problem. Maybe corrosion or damp in connectors.? An electrical schematic is on the way. Keep an eye on your messages.
Question: Does either of the ECMs look like this.?
I did take a picture of them, they don't look that bad, but they are definitely corroded a little, the connectors looked fine though. I am pretty sure all the safety switches are not the problem, would there be a relay that would make it flash? Also, when looking at the fuse panel, we noticed at least the bottom row of fuses were all the wrong amp according to the diagram, none blown, but I would definitely fix that if I purchased it. I don't think that would make it not move, unless it let to much power to the computer or something, but is the difference between a 10 Amp and 15 Amp fuse enough to do that? At this point I would just like to be able to move it, so I can get it on a trailer. Unrelated to the issue.. any idea what year it is, serial number CYC01477, and is there any way to tell if an hour meter is original?
January 2007. No easy way of telling if the meter is correct unless a dealer serviced it for all of its life.
Cool thanks, that's what I figured. Meter says 1335 hrs, but the tracks are shot and one side all the bogie wheels are broken off the axles. But the paint is in pretty good condition, motor sounds good, interior isn't too bad, could've just had a hard, short life, on gravel or something that would chew up the tracks.
I’d have to check but I recall some models having different rating fuses in certain locations compared to what the manual stated, but I would’ve thought that the fuse panel decals would be correct. I’ll look up what’s listed for that S/N and post it up. Here you go. Compare what’s listed on the attachment with what is marked on the electrical schematic I sent to you.
Looks like 3 or 4 of then don't match in the two attachments you sent, off by +/- 5 amps. I know for sure, on the machine, fuses 18-25 didn't match what the diagram on the fuse panel plate had. But none were blown so I'd have to believe that's not the problem, unless it allowed more amperage to their corresponding systems than should've been. How do the ecu's look to you? In the picture I sent, I noticed the one in the bottom of the picture looks more corroded and dirty than the upper one. Could that mean water damage? What is each ecu responsible for? Also, is there a way to get the machine to free wheel so I might be able to winch it or push it onto a trailer? I'm not too sure how the drive mechanism works, but if there was a way to disengage the park brake, through messing with a relay or something, would it be able to roll, or would the drive motors not allow that? Thanks for all the help!
You have to consider the possibility but it’s not a certainty. See Page 13 of the electrical schematic. One is the Interlock ECM, the other is the implement ECM. Sorry, no. If you can’t get the brakes off it will have to be dragged or lifted.
Hey, ended up getting the machine moving. Not the ecu apparently, there is a solenoid, kind behind the seat in the right rear of the engine bay, that the wires were broken coming out of it and probably grounding on the machine. I just got the machine to my house, haven't had time to look into it, was trying to figure out what that valve is for through the wiring diagram last night, but couldn't figure it out. Any idea what this solenoid valve is for?
Post a photo of it maybe, give us more of a clue.?
See those two wires, I believe came out of that black box, which I think is a solenoid valve?
Looks like something to do with the Work Tool circuit. Any numbers on those wires or is there a 2-pin connector further back where the wire colours change, or maybe a P/N on the valve/manifold.?
I think the wires go to that top part I circled. It looks like the red wires go to a connector that changes to yellow and black wires.
Also, is there a place I can look for parts, with like diagrams of the certain systems labeled. I know on motorcycles and tractors I've worked on, I can go online and find parts diagrams for it. Can't seem to find it for cat.
High Flow control solenoid. For anyone who doesn't have a Cat account the preferred recommendation is to register with AVSpare which is a free service.
Thanks, I didn't think this machine had high flow, doesn't say it anywhere, but maybe it came off. Thanks for your help!
It could be continuous flow, I'm not sure. Either way that solenoid on top of the manifold is where those two red wires are supposed to connect. I can't see it being related in any way to not being able to release the parking brake though.