Let me start by saying I am an idiot. To make a long story short, I topped off my hydraulic oil with a cheap alternative. It maybe has a couple to a few gallons of it in the system now. Out in the cold this winter, my forward/reverse drive has been very sluggish. All other hydraulics seem okay. I suspect this may be caused by the wrong viscosity (or some other scientific word for oil thickness). In the days that have followed my erroneous actions of using the wrong fluid, I have done some research and learned how important running the exact fluids is. My research has led me to picking up the HYDO 10 oil and filter along with a recommendation to replace the Case Drain filter. I have drained the tank from the underbelly (after spending 3 hours digging out 8-10 inches of hard packed soil in the bottom of the machine), but I recognize there's probably a few more gallons of the old stuff in the lines that needs to be flushed. What I'm not clear on is what approach to flush the remaining oil out of the system. In my mind, that would mean taking the return lines off the tank and running new oil through the system to push the old stuff out. I don't even know how to accomplish that with having the cab in the air to access the tank/lines and trying to run the hydraulics in short bursts so I don't push too much good (expensive) stuff out. My simple mind can't figure out what steps to take. I'd love any input on the approach - or even your opinion on whether the remaining oil really needs to be flushed. Serial #: CAT0299CAJSP02200
What exactly did you top it off with and how much did you add to the system. Do you happen to know what ths total system capacity is.?
I believe it was this stuff. My son grabbed whatever we had in the shop and it looks like this pail has about 3-4 gallons missing from it, so I'm guessing that's how much is in there. I believe the tank capacity is about 11 gallons, with like 2-3 more in the system. Sinopec L-HM 32 Antiwear Hydraulic Oil in ISO VG 32 is blended using selected and carefully refined high-quality mineral oils, combined with a multifunctional anti-wear additive system. This AW32 hydraulic fluid has been designed to meet the requirements of major hydraulic pump manufacturers, and its applications include hydraulic systems used in industrial and marine applications as well as in mobile machinery, specifically formulated for machines and equipment requiring an ISO VG 32, ISO 32 or AW 32 hydraulic oil. Certifications: ISO 11158-HM, DIN 51524 Part 2, Cincinnati P68, Easton Vickers M-2950-S and I-286-S, Parker-Denision HF-0.
How much oil did you add.? Did you notice any performance difference in the machine hydraulic system after topping up with the off-brand oil.?
It looks like 3-4 gallons may have been added over the course of a year or so. I didn't notice anything right away, but thinking back it did seem that my drive controls got a little more jerky in the summer. This machine isn't used much at all, so it can be weeks or months between uses. The real awakening happened when my forward and reverse were very slow when I used it a couple times in freezing temps. That's when I started to realize it might be caused by the hydraulic oil mixture. Maybe unrelated, but I had a couple whiffs of smoke come out of my air vents in the cab before I shut it down. I wasn't sure if I had a rodent or bird, or wasp make a nest in my heater core. I hadn't used it in about 2 or 3 months before that.
On the basis of your comments above I would suggest that you simply fill the tank with fresh oil, change the filter(s), and carry on as normal. The Sinopec is an off-brand oil but nowhere near the worst out there, plus the specs it meets are broadly similar to the ones Cat HYDO 10 meets. Additionally HD10 is pretty much an AW32. There are commercial equivalent oils to HYDO 10 out there that are just as good and probably significantly cheaper. Last I heard Mobil produced the oil for Cat although that was a while ago.
Thank you Nige. Really appreciate your expert opinion. Glad it wasn't the worst oil to add. I have just realized that I can actually do some purging with the cab down by disconnecting the return line at the hydraulic filter assembly that is in the back door of the machine. I'm guessing I can purge most of what remains from there. However, from what I read, the drive system is a semi closed loop that doesn't go through that main filter. The drive motors supposedly have a return line that connects near the top of the hydraulic tank that I can't seem to identify. Even if I find that one, I would have to rig up a hose extension and a plug in the tank so I could purge while sitting at the controls. Maybe I'm okay if that's the only loop I can't purge. I also haven't been able to locate the location of the 134-0964 case drain filter which I have read is another filter I should replace as part of the flush. Any thoughts on that? Praying I can get the machine back to normal with this fluid replacement.
I’ll have to get back to you with an answer on that one. I can’t get into the system at the moment. I’m not even certain your machine has a case drain filter.
You’re chasing your tail. Hopefully you are correct about the oil but I think you’re wrong. That small amount of 15 w oil wouldn’t do much. Could be, it was just stupid cold and never had a chance to get warm. What you need to do, is stop worrying about how to drain every last ounce of oil, because I suspect you could end up damaging your pumps or drives. The 299 C doesn’t have a case drain to my knowledge. These machines take hours of pretty hard use, to warm them up to good operational temperature, especially with the weather I’ve had.
Thanks HarleyHappy. I appreciate your honest input. It was very cold the day I was out using it for about 45 minutes in about 20-30 degrees and the forward/reverse didn't improve. I had it out again for a few minutes the other day in about 40-50 degrees and it still seemed to limp. Thanks to AI for telling me I needed to replace my case drain filter. I got my hands on a service manual and there is no mention of it for the 299c that I could find. So, I think my approach from here is to finish flushing out what I can from the hydraulic filter return line (using the new oil to push out the old), and get it back together and see how it moves.
You’re going to have to run it for a LOT longer than 45 minutes in those ambient temperatures for the hydraulic oil up to anything like normal operating temperatures. I would say 4 hours or something of that order.
Wow, didn't realize it takes that long to heat up. Okay. I'm learning.
I too think you are barking up the wrong tree with a small amount of oil causing your problems. If it were me I'd drain the hyd tank, refill it with something good, and go on your way. You may have other issues, but a few ounces of this oil or that left in the system isn't what's causing you're problems. Also never ask AI for advice on anything equipment or technical related. It is often very wrong and following it could cause harm to your machine or yourself.