I have a leaking track adjuster on a 311. do you have to remove the adjuster to repair it ? if so what is the best way to remove it? Do you have to split the track? Is it rebuildable or replace it?
well i believe the 311's are no different then a 320 so yes you will have to split the track (look for the master pin) remove the 2 track pads above it and split the track... once track is split remove idler and adjuster as one piece...remove idler from adjuster. remove piston from the barrel of the adjuster and inspect for chrome damage...sometimes the cost of new is close to the cost of having to recondition the piston so its hard to say what it will be like till you get it open and inspected. once condition of piston is determined repair as necessary and reseal adjuster....reinstall into the barrel and reattach idler, reinstall into the machine and wrap up the track...make sure to torque everything to spec. one thing i would try first before that above would be to replace the grease valve on the track adjuster...sometimes i found it was just that...unless you can see the grease leaking elsewhere...its a small dollar part and could save you lots of money/time tearing the track apart etc... hope that helps David
Cat's usually have a loose fit master pin on the smaller excavators so you just pull a keeper pin and knock the master pin out easily. You don't have to pull any pads. You do need to remember to slack the track off first. Replacing the grease fitting first is spot on advice. As I recall the idler wheel does not have to be removed from the recoil and adjuster assembly. I usually pull the mess out and prop the recoil and adjuster at an angle on the track. The rod should just pull out by hand but sometimes they don't. I have rigged a come along and used the weight of the assembly to pull it out. Some excavators use a separate piston under the rod. If so you will need a puller bolt to remove it. The seals will be on the piston. You should also look at the condition of your track as a possible reason for the leaking adjuster. If the idlers are adjusted all the way out on the track frame, then the adjuster cylinder is getting kinked as the idler bounces up and down. If that is the case I usually pull a link from each track to put the piston or rod back down in the barrel farther to good sealing area and less worn parts for the idler blocks in the track frame pockets. Good Luck!
You could do it the quick way. Loosen the grease fitting, use the bucket to push in the idler. Attach chain to track pad and bucket. Pull to the outside and track slowly so the (track) chain starts to come off idler. Then just spin your track until it falls off! Lift machine up again and block under the rollers. Then use the bucket to pull the whole idler assembly out. Reverse order to assemble. Remember it's like a bike chain, keep it on the sprocket and you'll be fine (all you have to do is get it started around the idler with the bucket/chain and it will walk itself back on). I've done this (well the putting it back on part) about 100 times in the middle of no where, as far back in the woods as possible (where else do things like this happen anyways). Used to be able to pop a PC200 track back on AND have it greased up in under 30 min using two 9' sticks of stud wood and an extra person (chains are for pussies, put your back into it!).