Does anyone know the part # for a pushrod on a 3304 78P engine? Had a top end knock on my 951C and found cylinder #3 pushrod broken.
From what I see the push rods are 5S5918 Original Equipment or 3940903 Cat Classic. The Original ones are about $25.00 each and the Classic about $8.00
Thanks for the quick reply. That's not a bad price.
While replacing the obviously-damaged pushrod just make sure that both the cam follower and the rocker adjusting screw are in good condition. You may find that you also need to replace one or both of them.
I pulled the follower out and checked cam lobe and follower. Both are fine, I have to pull the head. The valve spring is loose, I can move the valve and spring about 1/8". I believe the loud knock was the piston tapping the valve. The valve spring retainer is still holding, not 100% sure why it has that much movement. It was only ran long enough to get it out of the woods and on a trailer.
With those symptoms you'll probably find either a badly worn valve guide or at worst a broken valve and piston crown damage. It would appear that your pushrod damage is consequential to another failure.
True! Had a problem with a 3406, which has roller lifters, a couple months after dealer did a rebuild on the engine it developed a noise in the engine. Pulled valve cover to find a bent push rod. Lucky it was still right there and picked out with no problem. After discussing with dealer they said try putting a new one in and see how it runs. New push rod in and adjusted started and sounds fine. That was easy! Well until a few weeks later it happened again! Same push rod. Removed valve cover and just as I touch the rod to remove it it disappears sounding like a ball in a pin-ball machine, and I did not get Replay, just a dull clunk when it hit the pan. Long story a bit shorter found the problem in this case was a broken 305-6843 SPRING-GUIDE. That's the clip that goes around the lifter to keep the roller inline with the cam. When it broke the lifter was able to rotate out of line and besides destroying the lobe on the cam the broken clip gouged the heck out of the block. Got a free reman short block out of that one! Not sure if anyone ever checked to see if the clips were replaced when engine was rebuilt the first time as is recommended. As far as I know the 3304 does not use roller lifter, at least none of the 3306's I worked on did, but there is a reason the push rod bent. I believe the lifters can be pulled out of a 3300 from the top using a wire bent with a hook on the end. Just looked in SIS and they show using an extendable magnet to pull the lifters. If you don't find the cause it will most likely happen again and next time could cost much more than a $8.00 Cat Classic push rod and a valve cover gasket. I'd also be checking the other 7 very close, as what happened to the one may be damaging the others.
Someone has put a reman head on this engine before I bought it, not sure how old it is though.
Check the cam over good for a chipped ramp, they tend to last about 16,000 hrs in an engine that lasts about 20,000 hrs. Later Bob
Well, got the head off and it's not good. Piston and head damaged, looks like valve seat came apart. Will post pictures later. Is it possible to do a inframe on a 951?
The pictures of the damage
Yes you can. Later Bob
Good to know! The parts ordering begins.
Been looking at engine kits, anyone have any experience with Interstate Mcbee kits? My local engine shop sells and use them also. I've used FP diesel kit, but never a Mcbee. The Mcbee is a little cheaper.
Can't speak for Mcbee, as I have been away rebuilding engines for a few years, but at least you found the cause of the broken push rod
To strip out the engine in frame is a bit of a pain as the engine needs lifting up around an 1" usualy to get the sump off, thats the flat plate the oil pan is fixed to, as you say the engine is a 3304 the loader must be a C series with a good few digits in the serial No, a picture of the water pump area might be worth posting to confirm the engine series, the valve lift is 330 thou as a matter of interest, I always check the lobe lift hight with a lift gauge as sometimes cams look good but are knackered, its often easier to pop out the engine, the engine must have sounded like a Tank running on pebbles?? tctractors
I'm going to try to remove the oil pan today. It does look like a pain to do in frame, but stuff like this makes you appreciate the easier things. The engine knock was pretty loud, I'd say your right about running on pebbles. I found the other Pistons had pieces of the valve seat from cyl #3 embedded in them. I'll check that cam over good once I get the pan off.
Can the arrangement number be looked up by the serial number on these?
The old parts book and micro feicsh had a chart of the arrangement ### for the respective serial ###. The arrangement is relative to the machine the engine is used in and directs you to the proper piping, lines and attachments aswell as internal parts. Later Bob
What's the engine Serial Number..?
Stamping on block has 78P44174
Engine Arrangement is 4N-1521. System indicates to give both engine S/N and Arrangement Number when ordering parts.
Thanks! That will make things easier.
I would go with FP Diesel over Interstate Mcbee. I can't recall ever having a warranty issue with any FP products we have sold.
I had a FP kit come with main bearing set scratched, deep ones at that. Was able to get another set no problem. My local engine builder uses the Interstate Mcbee kits and says he hasn't had any problems with the ones he's gotten. Might give them a try.
try Offroad Equipment - www.offroadeq.com/ - a lot of people on HEF operating similar types of machine to yours swear by them. You will have to register with them first to get their discounted prices.
justinG, when/if you have your oil pan and sump plate off you might want to check the balance shafts for lift, these shafts spin x2 crank speed and need to be faultless, the No1 main bearing is also worth dropping down to check its condition as this is the usual bearing to go knacker on, a good tip for you is make sure the fuel tank tap is shut off firm, you can raise the engine up after the drive blocks have been undone at the trans flange, then with the engine mounting bolts undone you can lever the motor up and pack under the mounts as needed, the oil pump and pipe stuff will need to be removed also. tctractors
Having just overhauled the engine in my 951, I had a decision to make, in frame vs complete overhaul. When all is said and done the complete overhaul is the shortest route. working flat of your back id much slower and harder than working on the engine while it is laying on the floor or even a pallet. Then there is the thought of all of the seals and gaskets that did not get replaced. Check out my documented engine overhaul with pictures on this forum in the thread by Nitelite. 951-C in my sights Just my 2 cents worth. My complete engine overhaul kit at Off Road Equipment was $571.00. The kit was perfect and I can't control the big smile every time I fire it up!
I would have to vote with Nitelite, and it not the cheese talking! If one knew more of the history of the engine and the care it had seen over the years in chassis might be a good option. However as it appears this poor engine has been worked on by who knows what kind of a " mechanic " I would not sleep too well till I saw and inspected each and every part. "
Unfortunately I don't have anyway to pull the engine out. Even if I did pull it out, I don't have any place to rebuild it, no shop or garage. At this point, I wish I could pull it. Someone welded the belly plate on, right behind the flip down plate. Now I have to cut the welds to even be able to get the sump off. I already have the engine jacked up with spacers under the engine mounts.
Please be careful removing that belly pan, especially when you have to cut thing loose no way to be sure what's holding things in place!
How much does the engine and nose/radiator assembly weigh on these?
Engine is approximately 2000 pounds complete. radiator & guard together about 450 pounds.
Thanks.
In the Shop Talk slot of mine about pulling rims you will see a 951 engine getting its liners sucked out in frame, I then popped the motor free of its nest and did the full hit on it. tctractors
Sometimes that's a good option, disassemble in place to get weight down to where it can be managed then lift out the last chunk. That's how I have done the engine in my Sportster to avoid having to wrestle the complete signal handed. Stripped off everything above the crankcase, gut out transmission then what's left is relatively easy to handle.
I'm going to pull it out and rebuild it.
Sounds like a good choice, have you had time to review Nitelite's thread on his rebuild? some good information there. If you have any questions I'd bet he would be more than happy to offer advice. One bit from me is take lots of pictures! Both to help get advice and to remind you where that hose or wire was routed! Been there done that. Often wished these digital cameras were around 40 years ago!
I agree, lots of pictures for the re assembly. Get that thing ready to pull out and find someone with a wrecker, tow motor, back hoe, fifty horse tractor or larger equipped with a front loader or rear boom to lift it out for you. In a real pinch you can even pull the engine by using the machines own lift arms in place of a A frame. After removing the bucket, disconnecting and draining the hydraulics you can jack up the arms to somewhat higher than the level position. Lay a heavy piece of thick wall three inch pipe across the arms and use a rachet type come along to lift the engine. or you can sling the engine with no slack in the sling and just jack the arms higher then roll the pipe on the arms to move the engine forward. The front radiator group can be lifted in the same manner. Whatever it takes to get it out of the frame will be worth doing in order to do the complete overhaul. If I can be of help just post what it is that you need answers to. If you need my custom made liner puller/driver as pictured on my thread I can send it to you for postage and you return when done. I also have the custom made valve guide tools as shown in my thread.
I have in the past removed the engine using the loader frame only, its not to hard to do but bucket removal from the loader frame is needed to be safe, then its remove the nose group then its time to go for the motor, the times that I have done this it is always with the cylinder head removed but all you need is 2 bars and 2 pull lifts, the loader frame needs lifting to full hight and safety locked with the bracket or good heavy angle around 32" long you need? the liners can be removed easy on 3304's its not tricky stuff. tctractors
I should have the engine out this week. One thing I wish I would've done is removed the bucket, didn't plan on pulling this engine out at the time. In the mean time, getting my parts list together for the overhaul. Anyone have a part number for a exhaust manifold stud kit?
Don't think there is a "kit" as such but here is what shows in the SIS parts book: Hope that helps a little
I've spent my spare time this week trying to get the weight down so I can manage pulling the engine out. Was able to get 3 pistons and rods out. Found #1 rod has excessive wear on the bushing. I can see daylight between the wrist pin and bushing. The rod and main bearings don't look to bad, slight debris has gone thru the oil system at some point. Crankshaft journals are in good shape and oil pump internals look good. There was no metal or debris in the oil sump when I pulled it off. The inside of the engine looks very clean. Here are the pictures of the connecting rods. #1 rod bushing #2 rod bushing #1 rod with wrist pin
Made some progress this afternoon! I'm going to pull the engine out tomorrow.
I was able to get the engine pulled out today. This is one heavy little engine for sure!
Check your front engine mount to see if the bushing is good and tight. A new one is $45.00 at offroadequipment. Also see if the front torque converter seal has gotten hard and is leaking. Now is the time to take care of those items and change the transmission filter that will be hard to get to after the engine goes back in. New rubber drive disk are about 30.00 at offroad. You may find your old disc dry rotted and cracked. If you do change the transmission filter use an air blower to clean the area of loose dirt that might fall into the housing from above as you remove the filter, keep it very clean. It looks like you have a pretty nice loader, well worth repairing. This is also a good time to check all of those short hydraulic suction hoses along with their clamps.
Every item you mentioned is getting inspected, that's for sure. Already have the torque converter seal, needs new drive disk, all are cracked. I've gotten the part numbers for the transmission filter change, just need to order. Also, I went ahead a bought some Cat paint. I'm replacing every hose, they all look old and I just feel better replacing them. The fuel tank has to come off and cleaned out, has rust and debris in it. Nitelite, your rebuild has more than inspired me for mine. Just seeing your engine rebuild completed and how great your loader looks afterwards makes me grin. I just hope mine turns out as good as yours did.
Justin and Nitelite, the cracked drive biscuits are the result of engine alignment out of spec. Need to spin a dial indicator around the flange and shim the engine mounts. Rear shims and side to side set the outer diameter sweep and the front sets the face sweep. Later Bob
I was reading over the manual and saw that procedure. I plan to check it and shim where needed. I noticed when I removed the engine mount bolts that no shims were used, so I'm sure it wasn't in spec.
Bad alignment can rip the biscuits out in a week. Later Bob
the usual issue with the drive couplings is found at the front of the engine, the rubber thing behind the front crank pulley, this item wears away slowly over the years allowing the engine to drop at the front, it will need checking or changing within the engine re-build,it is easy to replace this item with the engine out of frame. tctractors
Just take the time to do it right the first time. I didn't have too much luck with the dial indicator to line up the engine to the drive flange. I used four wood dial pins all cut to the same length to fit 90 degrees apart and placed between the drive flanges, then adjusted the shims until all four dowels were held in place firmly, That procedure worked well for me but just use your head to arrive at the same end resulting in good engine alignment.
Anyone have any tricks for removing the crank pulley? Mine is stuck and everything I try doesn't move it. I had the engine stood up so I could let the nose of the crank soak in penetrating oil for a few days, but that didn't help. Tried using my OTC 522 puller and it just bent the puller. Tried a 8 lb slide hammer attached to it and it didn't work.
The pulley finally gave in and came off with a bang. That OTC puller is tough. The tear down continues.
Sounds like you are on top of things. I didn't have any trouble with the crank pulley. I did have trouble with the rear drive flange. I had to get really rough with a six foot pry bar and plenty of penetrating oil. Where did you settle on ordering your parts? Mark your flywheel and crank. They are supposed to be marked but I never found the factory marks.
The Crank and Flywheel are marked with a chisel line but its knowing where to look? I did tell Nitelite about this marking thing also about removing the front pulley as this item is a pig to move without the correct tooling and will damage easily, I would suggest you read up on Nitelites slot on the engine build as the pump gear will give you a bit of trouble soon if not marked . tctractors
Nitelite, I have been ordering all my parts from Off Road Equipment. They have been awesome to deal with! I still have to make a list of miscellaneous items I need.
In the past, I've found a couple of raps on the screw with a brass hammer will help persuade a stubborn pull.
I had tension on it with the puller and tapped it with my brass hammer, didn't move at all. The slide hammer must have helped, because it came off with just the puller after that.
Engine has been disassembled and parts all over the floor. Made a liner puller to get the liners out, worked very well. Sent cylinder block, crankshaft and connecting rods to machine shop. Also having new bushings pressed into the gears. I must say, the counterbores looked very good on this engine, no pitting or fretting. The real fun part is going to be cleaning all these parts, hate the old paper gaskets. Already have a lot of work to do and yet the list keeps growing on this machine.
Found Serial Number Plate! The search for the serial number on my machine is over! Talked to a CAT dealer and was told the serial number could be found on main frame and behind the counter weights. Well, the plate on the main frame is gone, so I went ahead and removed the counter weights. I didn't see any sign of a plate on the rear of the bevel gear case. The CAT dealer also told me the serial number is stamped below the plate on the main frame. I removed some paint off from around where the plate was and nothing. My dad came over today and I asked him where the serial number plate should be. He went right to where the plate is and pointed right to it, the plate couldn't even be seen due to some dirt and rust buildup. Looked up the serial number and the machine is a 1978 model. Spent some time today making up new hoses for it. Hope to get the engine compartment cleaned up and painted this weekend. Anyone know where to get new serial number plates or do I have to make them myself?
Your Cat dealer can get you a new serial number plate if you really feel the need. There will be some forms to fill in, you might need to provide some photographic evidence and they may even want to see the machine for themselves. This is all to check that no one is trying to ring a stolen machine. Also the plate you receive probably won't look the same as the old one. Bearing in mind the serial number will also be stamped right onto the frame near the existing plate, I probably wouldn't bother.
Assembly Begins! Finally, the work begins again. Been waiting on parts to get here and for machine shop to get done. Cylinder block has been cleaned and new bushings installed. Had crankshaft polished and connecting rod bushings replaced. Spent some time yesterday doing a final cleaning on block and crank. I checked the main bearing and rod bearing clearances during pre-assembly. I was able to get the crank and cam in last night. Hopefully, another week and a half and it will be together.
Did the machine shop check and/or adjust the liner protrusion? Looks nice and clean!
I checked them when I disassembled it and the old ones were in spec. The counterbores looked very good on this engine! I checked the protrusion with the new liners during pre-assembly and all are in spec. I've machined counterbores on Cummins, usually because liners have dropped down below spec or counterbores are fretted. I've seen counterbores with major pitting on older engines, usually due to just using plain water. The counterbores was my biggest fear on this, before I had it apart. Once I had it apart and seen them, I was relieved.
Good sounds like you are good to go. I did notice that the old liners looked nice and shinny on the outside so someone did something right over the years to this engine!
Well, I have made pretty good progress the past few days. The engine is going together faster than expected. Got the oil pump mounted up and have ran into an issue with the backlash. The book says to add shims as needed to get backlash in spec. Do they make a shim kit? One side has no lash at all and the other side is close to spec. Anyone else ever check the lash on these and had this issue?
I don't understand, what "backlash" you are talking about?
The gears on the oil pump and balancer shafts must have some play, "backlash". Here is a link that has the same procedure my book has on the oil pump, 20 pages down. http://www.numeralkod.com/cross/archivemanuals/caterpillar/3304%20and%203306%20vehicle%20engine%20service%20manual%20reg01349-01/part%202.pdf
Send a PM to tctractors asking him to have a look and post on this thread. I get the feeling that maybe that procedure in the link you supplied could apply to an older model engine than yours but I might be wrong. Also the link doesn't appear to be like any Cat manual I've ever seen, even the older ones. What paper manual are you using..? Does it have a Cat document reference on it..?
If you scroll all the way to the end of the link there is the Cat Number REGO1349-01 at the end. However when I tried to do a media search on SIS it says "NOT FOUND" Did some digging and found the first half of the manual above: http://www.numeralkod.com/cross/archivemanuals/caterpillar/3304%20and%203306%20vehicle%20engine%20service%20manual%20reg01349-01/part%201.pdf And a picture of the complete gear train:
I have a CAT manual, says for 32F 69H 86J models.
JustinG, the number Nige would want should be on the back cover down near the bottom Form Number : _________
I'll have to look when I get home. I saw a procedure online for a 3306 and it didn't say anything about the lash.
After looking at the most recent posts, here's the deal ....... according to the OP the manual he has says for "32F 69H 86J models". The problem is that two of those three S/N prefixes are divided into groups. It appears to me that the earlier machines in each S/N prefix are equipped with the former D330 engine that was replaced by the 3304. Therefore unless a manual states (for example) "for machine 86Jxxxx-Up" then the manual could be for an earlier machine with an installed engine that does not require this shimming procedure. I've looked at what's available online regarding assembly of the 3304-engine versions and can't either see any shims listed in the Parts Manual or find any reference to shimming the oil pump mount to produce the correct backlash in the gears. This is exactly why I wanted TC to chime in here. He knows these old chariots back to front because he's working on them all the time and therefore would immediately be able to tell us if the OP's paper manual is correct for the engine he is attempting to rebuild. I have it in the back of my mind reading something somewhere regarding the balancer shaft but Tony would know right off the bat. Just out of interest, what machine & engine Serial Numbers are we dealing with here..?
It's a 951C SN 86J48** and ESN 78P44174. I know on engines I've rebuilt in that past, if the oil pump used shims they came in the overhaul kit.
Cat don't supply an overhaul kit and I wouldn't have that level of faith in an aftermarket supplier I'm afraid. The Parts Manual that covers engine 78P44174 does not show any shims between the oil pump and the cylinder block. The Service Manual for the engine is REGO0956 and it makes no mention of shims between the oil pump and the cylinder block when assembling the timing gear train. Also I can't find anything in the Specifications for the timing gears or the oil pump.
Well, it was fine when I took it apart and the machine has 5000 hrs on it. I'm sure if it was intended to be shimmed, they would show the shims somewhere.
I'm 99% confident it shouldn't have them but I'd be more comfortable with a few words of confirmation from TC.
Think about it guys, If you were to shim the oil pump where it is fitted to the block, the only backlash that would be effected would be the oil pump gear itself, not any other gear in the timing configuration. If the oil pump gear does not bind against the mating gears, there is no reason to shim anything. There is a small amount of backlash built into all of the mating gears which would change with the temperature of the engine and slightly increase with wear of the gear.
This little detail is easy sorted if there is no lash in the gear train on the oil pump, there is a shim kit that CAT used to have available but its not hard to cut a shim out of shim steel, the Lanchester balance shafts need to be free not pegged up with the lock bolts through the sump plate setting holes also the idler gear bush needs to be in good condition, the oil pump dowels also need to be set home tapped flush into their location holes, then you can start wobbling about with the gear train, its not uncommon to put a 2 or 3 thou shim in 1 side of the oil pump mounting to set this lash to spec, any slight movement is good you don't want tight gears, the balance shafts have gear teeth cut in opposite angles that can remove any slack due to their off centre weight so control this effect to work out what lash you have, also double check that the con rods are fitted with the "I" cast mark facing forward as this detail mistake is common, on the older engines the Rod No was always towards the window (side plate) the later engines have the rods marked for the front with Rod No' on the other side, I have 1 of these little engines to re-build for a customer but sadly I have been a bit flat out the last few weeks to grab a chance to tackle it as there is only 7 days in my week, anyhow good luck with the engine its easier to build them up than to strip them down. tctractors
I was able to get the lash in spec without shims. Just took my time and I am happy with it. The idler gear has a new bushing in it. I should have this engine done by next weekend!
It is really a good feeling to put that last bolt back in place.
The oil pump shim job is not un-common to find on 333C-3304 engines, I have seen fitters messing about with this task with the balance shaft setting bolt done in tight making things rubbish, the liners that came out of your engine JG looked as new so its been fettled and done nothing?? tctractors
Not as good as the sound when the air is bled out of the system and it settles down to a smooth idle then once up to working temp you put the blade/bucket in to the dirt and the turbo spools up under load!
Well, I am running out of parts to put on. Need to put on the flywheel housing and put the front and rear seals in. Then the oil sump and a few smaller parts should finish it off. Waiting on the local CAT dealer for a quote to install the front and rear crank seals. Debating whether or not to buy the seal installers. My goal is to have the engine back in sometime late next week.
The seal installers make it easier but it's possible to get the crank seals in place without using the recommended tooling so long as you're careful.
Not sure how close the dealer is or if you have a way to take the partially assembled engine to them but that would be one option. It would be an easy 1/2 hour job and not even need to unload the engine to do the job. Then again if dealer is fairly close and you are on good terms with them, bought the parts from them, you might get them to loan you the tools for a couple hours to do it at your shop. Like Nige says it is possible to do the job with out the tools if you are careful and take your time to think it through. The rear seal is probably one that comes with the wear sleeve in it and the two should not be separated. Not sure if the front seals are that style now days or not.
The key with the 2-piece seals is just go round and round them gently tapping first the outer seal then the wear sleeve. You may end up doing a dozen "laps" of the seal but they don't need a lot of force to drive them in, it's just a case of patience. You need either a well blunt brass drift or a piece of hardwood to prevent the seal parts getting damaged.
I've had to drive seals in with a brass punch before. My front seal has the wear sleeve and my rear is just the seal. If I get to the point where I need to install them, then I will see what I can do. The last front seal I did with a wear sleeve, it was too tight to drive on without causing damage and I had to use the install tool. Just the seals are not too bad to drive in. I'll see how much CAT wants to do the job and make a decision then.
And if using the hardwood be sure to go cross grain, probably goes without saying but I said it anyhow! And once the wear sleeve is flush with the end of crank on many you can then push it the last bit with the flywheel. Most flywheels have a counter bore to locate them on the crank so install it with three equally spaced bolts and draw it on nice and even by hand.
I about have all the parts back on this engine. Maybe another day or two and it should be done. I ended up just using a brass punch for the rear seal install. I bought the front seal tool and it was worth the money! Can't wait to get this engine fired up and get the loader working again! My engine didn't have any lifting eye bolts in the head, anyone know what threads they are?
She sure is looking good. Should last you for many years.
Off the top of my head I'd be thinking 5/8-11. Don't forget the hose clamps on the hose from the water pump to the cooler!
The lift eyes are 5/8 UNC, the oil filler spout needs removing before you install the engine due to damage risk, on the engine behind the hydraulic pump is a plate that sort of has me stumped that is bolted to the block side? did you remove this plate at all as I cannot recall this plate on any 951 engines. tctractors
Not sure what it is but shows for certain S/N range engines:
I did have that plate off, just a huge opening into the crankcase. I still need to make a trip to buy all new hose clamps. I won't forget to put them on kshansen.
Went to replace the front seal on the torque converter today and found a spiral lock hanging on the shaft! Can't see any groove for it to snap into. Looks like the bearing can't be removed from the front anyways. Anyone know if this lock goes into a groove on the shaft. My manual doesn't have any good pictures or descriptions.
It's too big for that shaft for a start......
Well, that's what I think to. There's no groove for it, bearing and shaft are tight. No play in either one.
I'm guessing that's supposed to go up next to the bearing race, but yes it may be the wrong size? The way the end is keyed for removal tells us it goes onto a shaft, not into a bore? You may need to try and gently coax the shaft out until the groove appears..... May not bode well for the torque converter innards. Anybody got a parts page?
Was able to pull shaft out enough to see the groove. There's no telling how long it's been like that. Hopefully no damage came from it. Think I'll order a new lock ring for it, to be on the safe side.
Justin, I have not read all the posts so can you tell me if the thrust bearing was worn or in good condition. Regardless better pull the torque out and rebuild it. If the torque looses the retainer for the stator the charge pressure can force the crank forward and wear the thrust bearing out. Later Bob
Never thought of that, I suppose it acts like a displacement cylinder? I can't remember how all those pieces go together in there.....
The thrust bearings looked very good, no unusual wear on them at all.
Okay just a heads up as it can mess up a crank and block if it gets moving. Later Bob
The engine is back in the loader finally! Had it running today and found out the hand priming pump on the fuel filter housing is leaking. Anyone ever resealed one of them or have part numbers for seals?
There is no seal kit listed. Pump is a 4N-2511 and sells for just over $100.