I have a Cat 416B that runs for 15 20 mins then loses power and shuts off (seems like it runs out of fuel). I have cleaned the fuel system from the fuel I had in it and started fresh. I have also replaced the fuel filter, lift pump, air filter and oil and filter and checked all the fitting to make sure they were tight and not leaking. If I just leave it idling it will run for ever it seems (I have had it running like this for over a hour). I have run out of ideas on what the problem may be other then the injector pump and not sure about that. Anyone out there had this same problem or have a solution?
Is the return line clear?
yes
A couple of thoughts spring to mind. 1. Fuel tank cap venting correctly.? 2. When you replaced fuel filters did you do anything with the filter head.? If not then I would suggest to remove it from the engine, take out all the fittings and plugs, then blow through every passage with compressed air. Without a Serial Number to assist in identifying the exact filter setup you have it’s hard to comment in detail.
8ZK02236 Serial number and I replaced all gaskets on filter. Common theme seems to be that this is a plugged or plugging fuel line. I have not blown out all the lines yet that is my next step.
I’d try the fuel tank cap first if I was you. I would make the next step to remove and clean the passages in the head of the filter before going after the fuel lines. Also check under the fuel tank to see if there is a valve or plug for draining water and sediment from the tank. If there is one and it hasn't been touched in a while now might be a good time to see if there is any water/dirt in the bottom of the tank. Below are a couple of illustrations of your fuel lines. I can see a number of "pinch points" where debris could potentially get trapped.
In your first post you mentioned the fuel filter. Have you been into the water separator #5 yet......?
yes and I have drained the tank and put new fuel in it Oh and fuel cap is new. Also changed all the gaskets on the water separator.
Passages in the head of the fuel filter cleaned out.?
No I have not cleaned those out yet
I am having a similar problem with my 416b. Started out, it would start then die. After cranking several times it would start and run fine. Then it started running a few minutes like yours and would die. Would finally start and die again after a few minutes. I have noticed the tachometer is bouncing around as well. Still in the process of doing the things described above. I replaced the lift pump, removed the fuel tank and cleaned it out, cleaned the fuel/water separator and replaced the fuel filter. The fuel/water separator had a twisted o ring between the housing and the glass bowl. That might be the problem. These are square cut o rings. I am about to decide the fuel shut off solenoid in the injector pump is causing the problem. Might be in the wiring or in the solenoid itself. I have read things which lead me to believe there is a relationship between the fuel shut off solenoid and tachometer. Both come off the alternator. Does anyone know if the fuel shut off solenoid has to be replaced by the Stanadyne rebuilder?
Been doing some more research on this while laid up for a few days. My son is a mechanic for a large contractor who runs almost exclusively caterpillar equipment. Ytachometer has been bouncing around and acting funny. My amp meter always shows charging fully over in the green area. Fuel cutoff solenoid may or may not be working correctly. I think the alternator might be overcharging, probably due to a bad voltage regulator. Excess voltage would cause the tach to be erratic and would be indicated on the gauge by the needle not backing down after running for a while. High voltage could be causing the fuel shut off solenoid to overheat resulting in it shutting off the fuel supply.
This is a question, not a suggestion. The fuel lift pump or transfer pump on the 416b pulls fuel through the water separator and then pushes it through the fuel filter to the injection pump. What if you rerouted the lines so the fuel transfer pump pulled fuel directly from the tank and pushed it through the water separator? Would that affect the way the water separator works and make it ineffective? You could put an inline filter between the tank and the transfer pump but the purpose would be to eliminate pulling fuel through a filter.
Maybe the water separator might react negatively to positive pressure where it does not to suction.?
Lots of people will bypass the water separator entirely. The water separator is between the tank and the pump to keep the big stuff from plugging the pump, if you don't have big stuff, it will work find without a water separator. The fuel filter will catch some water, and you should be draining a bit out of the tank everyday before you start it to check for water. The tachometer runs off of wild AC current from inside the alternator, it should run the tach fine at any voltage present. Are you sure you have an AMPMETER, and not a voltmeter? I'd think a voltmeter would have a red low section, a middle green section, and a high red section, obviously anything in the green is fine, or under 15V with a voltmeter. If you suspect the wiring, fuel solenoid, alternator, I'd run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the injection pump solenoid, disconnect and tape up the original wire from the harness, and run it that way for testing purposes. might want to put a fuse in that jumper line also.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I bypassed the fuel/water separator and it runs much better so I will replace the o rings and that should help. Fuel solenoid in the injection pump seems to be working properly. I did not know voltage up to 15 volts is acceptable. I was thinking 13.5 to 14 volts. And yes, you are correct, it is a volt meter not an amp meter. Still need to make sure the return lines are clear. Making progress.