I've been a mechanic/body and paint/ceritfied welder for over 30 years but never really worked on heavy equip. 'till now. We have a CAT 416C backhoe and the long hard line for the stick cyl. is cracked and leaking. How do you position the boom to remove this cyl? From what I can tell, this must be the hardest cyl. to remove on this machine!
http://www.christopherequipment.com/416ham1.JPG the top one ? i gust you just lower it the most as you can and wack the pin out
It's the cyl. inside the lower boom that extends the bucket reach.
You need to remove the extendahoe cylinder? If so then yeah that's a little bit of a job.
I didn't think mine was that bad when I did it on my 426. on mine I extended the stick out until I could see the pin outer pin then joged back in just a touch to take the stress off it. you should feel it. it sits inside with internal snap rings on both ends of it so it can telescope in and out. take that snap rings out and pop it out with a hammer. same on the pin on the top. also have to disconnect some fittings. a set of crows foot wrenches would be handy. then with the hoe lying down as you have it just pull the cyl out the top. I did it all by my self. here's the hole I am talking about. yours is a lot newer so maybe it's all different.
gusbratz, yeah I figured as much and it's pretty much the same, I tried to pull the pin for the upper boom cyl. (it has to come off to make room to pull out the stick cyl.) but it has tension on it in the position in the photo. I'm pulling it in the shop this morning, we're expecting heavy rain for the next two days. I'm thinking the boom will have to be extended, then supported. might have to build something for that...
here is a video on how to do it on a case https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f70KLWCrF1Q hope that helps
bob_00, Thanks for that video. The cat is opposite as far as the extending part, the stick is attached to the boom and the extending beam is inside. I did finally get it out yesterday, and on to reassembly today with some new hoses and brackets. Apparently, some of the hoses where not in the correct configuration and with some of the brackets missing was causing the binding and bending of the hard lines. Thanks to all for the advice and guidance.
hey well I did mine very tricky leave the back end attached to machine use some thing to pull out extend a hoe but be very careful to support the weight from the extend a hoe first disconnect the lines going to the extend a hoe remove all pads & shim bolts then use a fork lift to chain it then pull very slowly push out the back arm straight out not bent must CAP line so you can still move back end around to help with putting it back 2 it helps
A few pics of the job, not as tough as I thought. It ran great great for a few days, but now the start circut 15 amp fuse blows every time you turn on the ignition switch. Chcked all wiring thinking a rat or chipmunk chew, but all wiring looks good, could it be the switch itself? Sometimes the switch won't make contact with the starter, but turning it off and on again usually fixes it. Any thoughts?
blows each time you turn it on or turn it to the start positon?
blows most every time I turn it to the on position, but it did start and stay running long enough for me to drive it back to the shop, after lots of dash disassembly and rooting around the whole wiring harness!?!?!?
WELL...I took out the ignition switch, replaced with a toggle and just touch the starter wire to start, and low and behold it started and ran about 6 or 8 times, so the guys take it out and plow some snow...for about two hours, then he goes to back drag and as soon as the cutting bar hits the ground it dies, blown start fuse AGAIN! ARRRGGG!!!
I would check the current draw on that little selnoid operated valve on the injection pump. I know they take a lot of juice. there must be a latching relay in there somewhere too because when I turn mine on then roll the engine over if it doesn't start I can't roll it over again until I turn the switch back to the off position then try again.
Finally figured it out, Someone in the past replaced the alternator and left out the rubber grommet at the harness bracket on the side of the engine block, got it to start again and lifted the bucket removed the hood sides and started wiggling the harness, as soon as I grabbed the alternator harness it died, bracket rubbed through the insulation. Easy fix, thanks to all who commented, much appreciated.