Hi all- have read conflicting info on whether it's acceptable to run front and rear chains on a medium size backhoe (I've got a Case 580K Phase I 4x4). Some say it will put too much stress on certain drivetrain components. Does it make a difference what type of chains? Since v-bar dig more into ice, and twist can slip more, would that make it safer to run non-vbar chains if you are going to run front and rear? I have icy hills to traverse and want to run front and rear. I need climbing traction *and* steering.
I can't help you with the question... But how so you like the K? I'm in the market for one
My experiance is that chains put no more load on componants that bare tires in good traction without them.
That makes sense- but would you have any issues with 4x4 engaged on dry pavement turning a tight radius?
I have been doing it for 10 years. Been doing it in my 1 ton 4/4 pickup for 17 years. You will wear your u-joints quicker than anything. When it is icy and steep you will find it goes better uphill in reverse. If you drive uphill going forward it takes too much weight off the front wheels. I have pulled out more than one 4/4 tractor with mine in reverse.
Thanks Bill- good to hear that it's not going to blow stuff up. (operator care always a factor as well - not abusing the machine and doing too much stupid stuff ) I'm thinking about getting the non-vbar H-style as a good all-arounder, these for the rears from tirechains.com and same style for the fronts: (I will be driving on snow with grass underneath, don't want to tear it up too bad...) From this page: http://www.tirechain.com/17.5-24.htm What do you all think of that style? Any thoughts on tensioners (spring style) for these and installation aids? Anyone use something like this tool for tensioning chains? http://www.tirechain.com/tirechain-install-tool.htm
Chain install tools work fine. I'm not convinced they are worth the money. I use a small cable come-a-long and work them around until tight. This has worked well even on large log skidder chains. I cut the extra tails off the side links off so they don't slap around. On anything that goes over 10 MPH like the unimogs I use rubber bungee cords on the outer face to keep them tight.
I like the v bar ice cutters. I have the spring tensioners front and rear. The rear ones are heavy but I don't use any special tools to put them on. The past few years I borrow one of the Amish boys to help put them on. Get some threaded repair links for the extra links or use some real heavy wire ties. I keep extra of each in the cab when I am using mine.
Would you leave the machine in 4 wheel drive on hard dry pavement? probably not, chains are meant for slippery conditions. If all wheels are getting solid contact and the machine is in 4W then yes it will stress the drivetrain. It just comes down to good judgment and only using when needed.
**Edit: Looked at the prices again, and they are the same (was comparing to duo-grip, not duo-grip combo which is more expensive on tirechains.com) Anyone order from these guys? http://tractortirechains.com/agricultural_duo.asp "North State Sales Co." Prices seem better than tirechains.com, but don't want to deal with a company that's not reputable...
I run a 10klb Ag tractor with all 4 tires chained in 4wd for 3 years now and 0 issues. IMO, don't mess with the duo chains, backhoe industrial tires aren't deep enough to need them and the bare spots between the chains have 0 traction on ice because there is no chain there(maybe this is worse on deep tread R-1). I have v-bar duo grips on the front and tried tightening up the pattern by moving the chain patterns closer together, now the traction is better but it would have been cheaper to buy 2 link v-bars for the front and they would hold alot less mud. Also, I would look at aquiline talons or telfsdale (SP?) tire chains that have a continuous loops of studs around the tire for fantastic ice traction on the rears! Tirechainsrequired.com is where I got mine I believe. Any chain is better than no chains though!
Just my 2 cents, I have an old 68CK 2wd with chains in the winter. When snow builds up in some of my accounts I bring it in to remove the banks. Any wheel spin what so ever will scratch the pavement and leaves marks well into the summertime... If you have a nice drive or plan on using machine on someone else's property just be careful not to scratch it all up
Fortunately I'll be driving on snow-over-dirt: no pavement in sight!
you won t be need that mutch 4x4 were i live we get few 1 ft + snow fall per year i did clear a 62 000 sf yard snow-over-dirt on 2 x 4 no chain with a cat 416 97 but brake pedal unlock to help steering
I went ahead and ordered the duo-grip combos front and rear- I figure they will do great in the snow, ice, and mud, and they were in the middle on cost (~$1000 with spring/chain tensioners delivered). I guess you have to spend some money to get a backhoe equipped with chains. Looking forward to trying them out...
I have a JCB Backhoe. Worried about Side wall to Frame clearance. No one seems to be talking about that. It looks close . I'm a bit nervous about ordering chains and not being able to use them . These guys http://www.unionfarmequipment.com/pages/CustomCatalog/Product/3191810
If the clearance is an issue, you could look into some wheel spacers. Add them when you need to run chains, and if concerned with the load, remove for summertime.
Those are nice chains, how much clearance do you have?
Any problem running chains on fronts, only? I bought a set of chains for the rear tires on my Case 580 SK 4x4 but there wasn't any clearance for them. Should have checked closely before buying but a buddy has the same machine, but, as it turns out, the smaller tires, so he can run chains on his. Is there any problem running chains on just the front? Thanks!
a friend ran only front chains for years on his Kubota for years. i guess the chains increase the diameter of the front tires a bit and might strain the full time four wheel drive but you are driving on snow, the drivetrain will give a little
I run duo cross chains on my 310 A hoe for my own snow plowing and they are a must.The one time I had a problem was when I had the same type of chain on a 75 horse John Deere two wheel drive ag. tractor and I was pushing stumps that were somewhat frozen and with that loader lifting and the pushing it twisted the right axle. Now the chains on the ag. tractor were good USA made and did not brake, they were hard. The chains on my hoe are cheap China chains and if you spin your wheels a lot you will snap the cross chains,you just go easy and take your time and have fun in the snow. My chain clearance is close you can't have the tails of your excess chain too long cut them short or they will hit on your inner fender etc. I would think you would not need chains on the front of a 4 wheel drive the back wheels are going to be doing most of the work, as for steering just use your brakes when needed. Jeff
Post a picure when you get them on, and keep us posted on how they work. You should not spin at all moving snow with chains on.
Front Chains on Case 580 SK? I appreciate the feed back on other backhoes, but I'm wondering specifically about the Case 580 SK and if there are any problems in running them on the front tires? I've read that this can be a problem with John Deere backhoes and am trying to avoid doing anything stupid... Thanks!