Hey everyone! I have been tasked at replacing the two metal tubes for the loader's left cylinder (and doing a slow overhaul in general). They have corroded through due to battery acid being left on them for many years. The parts I am talking about are number 9 and number 10 from this exploded view: http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-58...YLINDER-HYDRAULIC-CIRCUIT-0Yd1/?#partdiagrams I have the tubes and plenty of oil to do a flush and the normal array of tools, but after looking at these lines specifically, I'm not sure how to get them out. I know I have to remove the battery tray, but it looks as if the cab has to come off too. Here are some good images of the tubes in question: http://i.imgur.com/3nN05og.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6rxjQoV.jpg Now, in the second image above, the fittings sit directly on top of the frame. And directly above is the cab floor. A better photo: http://i.imgur.com/E1xghg1.jpg One thought I had was to cut a door here (red square) to make an access port for the wrench: http://i.imgur.com/aBkMtRL.jpg My question is, have any of you replaced these tubes? If so, what/how did you do the job. Or am I looking at a near 100% disassembly of the control valve to get to them? Thanks all!
When machines are built at the factory, steel lines are some of the first components to go in so getting them out can be a major undertaking. If any of them look like they're going to give you a lot of heartache, you should consider cutting them up to remove them and replacing them with hoses.
Can you disconnect the hose at the other end than pull it out to do your repair ?
Sometimes you have to take a bunch of other lines off to get at the ones you need. I'd see if Case has a procedure for replacing them. Maybe you could take the other end off and the other line connected to it and slide it back to get it apart? I hope I don't have any steel lines leak on my 931B Cat. You'd have to take the whole machine apart to replace them. I see where a couple were brazed or gas welded. I did have a long steel line wear through that had some complicated bends. There was no way to get the line off so I cut it with a mini hacksaw. I kept the complicated bend end and the other steel end and had them flared for JIC fittings and then used 2 hoses and a 90 deg. to join them together.
The more I stare at this, I'll have to: 1) remove the brackets holding the tubes 2) remove the battery tray 3) disconnect the hoses on the left side 4) disconnect the hoses on the right side tubes 5) disconnect all tubes from the control valve 6) remove the control valve 7) turn the tubes upside down and push them to the left of the chassis 8) crawl under neath to loosen the T connector fitting 9) replace tube 1 10) replace tube 2 11) start at step 8 and reverse back to 1 And this is if nothing gets in the way or I come across something else I'm not seeing. I can't pull the tubes to the right because they catch on the frame on the left side, can't go up because the cab is there, and can't really go left because the control valve is there. I think Cmark is right. For time and ease of future repair, cutting these tubes and replacing them with hoses would be best. I can route those and fasten them fairly easily. Due to the cold and lack of light, I'm going to sit on this until it gets warm. I'll measure the distance needed for the hoses if I decide to go that route. I'll be spending my time before then working on the motor. I'll keep you all posted.