Hey everyone, I have a cat D6E (serial:2mj01204) Parked machine in January, had to replace starter, got that done started machine up, let it idle for a few minutes, shifted into 1st and machine tracked about 8-10 feet then would not move. Steering lever and brake pedals seem loose. Checked trans oil and had to add 10 gallon (should have checked it first). Started machine back up and still won’t track forward or reverse. When I move the steering levers out and back in the machine will inch forward. Motor seems to load when shifted into gear, but no movement. Thanks for your time.
If you had to add 10 gall of oil to the transmission did you check anywhere else for something that might be over-full. 10 gallons would make a helluva big stain if it was on the ground so it has to have gone somewhere.
Other fluids look good, there is a stain under the machine but I didn’t think it was that bad. I’ll be honest it’s my first dozer, I don’t remember checking the trans oil before. Been sitting for about 6 months so I’m not sure if that has something to do with it or not.
You mean to say you don't check all the fluids as part of the pre-start check before you crank up the machine.? Next you're going to be telling us you don't have an Operation Manual for it.....
Obviously you’ve done this for a while and some of these things may be second nature to you. Your correct I don’t have an operation manual, I did check engine oil, water level, hydraulic level, as well as greasing known grease ports. No I did not check the trans oil, yes I know that was stupid. I’m new to a dozer, but not incompetent. I’ve searched for other answers online and haven’t found much of anything on a D6e. Maybe they are an unusual machine. I can call a mechanic out, but would like to be able to fix this myself, if possible.
Look and see if the oil you added is leaking out again and where it's coming from. Oil leaking from one spot might not make too big of a stain when it soaks into the ground especially after sitting for 6 month's. Could also be dirt in the belly pan soaking it up like another poster had with a major leak. Not sure what the problem could be but sounds like a bunch of disassembly is involved. Probably similar to a D6D with a few improvements/changes.
The pans do have a lot of buildup, no telling when they were pulled if ever. Thanks I’ll check on that.
I'm not trying to be a smarta$$, just to establish what you have in the way of resources, what you know, and how rigorous you are about checking stuff. Right, an Operation & Maintenance manual. Covers all the basics and you can download a pdf version for $46 from Cat. Go to - https://catpublications.com/ Click on "Continue as Guest" when the popup appears. Type SEBU6504 in the box at the top and click Search. The illustration below should appear. Regarding checking the level of your transmission oil. Were you aware that it's supposed to be checked with the mahcine warm, with the engine idling and the transmission in neutral.? I'm thinking that you probably checked it stopped cold which might mean that it was nowhere near 10 gallons low, although it was probably low to some extent.
I didn’t know that originally, but searched and found that out. I checked it after it had stopped tracking and machine had idled for ~10 minutes. I then checked it again after filling and it is around the full mark on dipstick with machine idled and in neutral.
I have not opened cover beneath my feet yet but I understand that could give some more insight into what might be cause. I’m confused on why the steering levers and brakes seem so mushy. Seems like no resistance at all. The park brake hasn’t worked to my knowledge since I acquired the machine. The lever is in the up position but does not move down or up more. When I was in neutral coming out of my barn the machine would track freely downhill as it is a good slope coming out from the barn. Just a quick look inside engine compartment and belly pans do have a lot of dirt and debri. Looks like it could be a fun afternoon clean out.
I think lowering the belly guards and having a good clean out in there is maybe your first step. It'll probably take you a lot longer than an afternoon if you do it right. BE CAREFUL - they are very heavy, especially when full of caked mud. You will need something like a hoist or Come-along to hold the weight of each guard while you are removing the bolts. Maybe your next step is to get a service manual if you want to start to sort this tractor yourself. You are looking for Cat Publication reference SENR3925, like this example - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Caterpillar-D6E-Tractor-Service-Manual-2MJ1-2653-SENR3925-/163612470912 - after you note the price I'll tell you that a new one in paper format is $500. Same thing available new on CD for $300.
Is there anything I can do without having to buy a service manual ? I realize that it’s a valuable piece and if this becomes a major repair I’ll buy it. I’m just looking at any other options before dropping that much. I did get the operation manual suggested but download is pending. I’ve got a few options on supporting and moving belly pans. Thanks for the warning
Try lifting the floor plate. Start the engine and watch the short drive shaft that connects the torque converter and the transmission. It should rotate in neutral but stop dead if you engage the transmission into any gear. If you come back and say that shaft does not stop when you engage gear then the next step is pressure testing. That where the service manual, an appropriate set of pressure gauges, and a good set of hand tools comes in. I'm wondering out loud if you have any pressure at all from the transmission pump. Could be sucking air from a dry joint somewhere. it may pay you to have a close look at the transmission pump suction lines while you have the belly guards down. See illustrations below, I can see a couple of hoses (42 & 61) that I would be looking very closely at, but at the same time not ignoring everything else that's in there. To get good access to that area will need the floor plate up and the belly guards down. P.S. If you want a Parts Manual which is where the illustrations above came from, type SEBP1986 into the Cat Publications web site as above - $89.
Thanks for the reply, as soon as I can get home from this service call I’ll start with the visual on the shaft and then move from there. Thanks again.
Was able to pull floor plate. Drive shaft spins freely in neutral and then when shifted into gear it dead stops. I’ll edit video later as it was to big a file. Everything I could see from pulling floor plate and cover beneath fuel tank I haven’t found a major leak. Some drips on the brake connections but nothing major. I haven’t gotten to the belly pans, should have some help tomorrow. Any more thoughts ?
The machine will move when both the levers are pulled all the way out and then pushed back in. Tracks maybe a few inches and the stops. I don’t know much about the way this works, but it seems like the brakes are locked on right now. Is that possible ?
It dounds to me as though your steering clutches are partially released and not engaging correctly. While you have the floor up try disassembling, cleaning, & lubricating EVERY pivot & pin on the linkage from the handles downwards. Also clean & lubricate the linkages from the brake pedals(s) backwards. DO NOT play around with the rod adjustments just yet.
Any issue with spraying a heavy degreaser over the TC and transmission area and then spraying down with a hose ? Not a pressure washer yet, just water hose and nozzle. The linkage rods are fairly clean but I will clean and lubricate everything. I should have some help today to watch linkages while levers and pedals are manipulated.
I wouldn't have thought so. You won't shrink it if it gets wet ...
Got a lot of hunk cleaned up in the transmission and Converter area. Lubed up the linkage connections. With dozer in gear and steer levers forward the shaft does not spin. When I pull both levers back toward me fully the shaft will spin. If I pull either lever back independently the shaft does not spin. The LH brake pedal doesn't move LH steer handle linkage, the RH brake pedal moves RH steer handle linkage slightly. Is it possible the park brake is stuck ? The lever for park brake does not move either way, but never has since I bought dozer
So it seems at some point this winter the park brake was engaged. Maybe one of the kids was playing on dozer. Got out the 4lb and gave a few wacks on handle and off we go. Thanks everyone for the comments and especially Nige ! I’m going to put this thing to work for a little bit to make sure it’s all good.
Still need to find where the oil leaked out and repair it so you don't have bigger problems.
I plan on doing that. Thanks for the help
Lubricate and free off the park brake linkage so that it works the next job on the list..? Don’t forget to get those belly guards cleaned out. You’ll find that if you do that plus give the radiator a good pressure washing the tractor will run a lot cooler.
Replace a hydraulic hose that ruptured this afternoon.
Maybe a re-hosing project is on the horizon, because as soon as you replace one another one will probably pop.
Yeah maybe so, this one was rubbing against the water pipe from radiator and finally gave up.
Another thing about cleaning belly guards out is it prevents issues like rubbing through of the oil pan (I have replaced a few oil pans because the owners never cleaned the pans out) and rubbing of lines and such It’s no fun and I hate messing with the damn things but it’s a necessary part of maintenance
And it always pays to do everything that you find needs doing when you drop the guards right there & then. Because you know damn well if you get them back up again without doing the work there's always a nagging "what if?" at the back of your mind but you know how much work is involved in getting them down so you cross your fingers and take a chance.
One thing I see too many people doing when replacing hoses and lines on equipment is failing to reinstall hold downs for the lines. Sure some of them can be a real pain to get back on, but I have a feeling that Cat did not have a bunch of leftover hold downs they needed to get rid of when they built the machine. There might actually be a good reason they were included in the design of the machine! Same thing goes for wire harnesses!
And I can just about guarantee that hose you decided to not replace is just waiting for you to be out in the middle of the biggest mud hole to go pop! And you will get it off five minutes after the dealer closes on a Friday night!
I personally know of at least three tractor oil pans replaced in the last year or so because someone was too lazy to drop the guards and clean them out.