Good afternoon Team My dad (Nitelite) always spoke very highly of this group. Unfortunately he passed last month. I've got a 955k that I haven't used in a year or so. Got in it, fired it up but it won't go into gear. The lever does not want to move. Is this a low fluid safety or is it something more? Thanks in advance for any insight and thanks for being a great group. Jim Dad in his 5ton and my 955k
So sorry to hear of your dad's passing. Could the linkage be rusted up? Also the track looks too tight.
Hi Jim. I'm new to CAT 955K loaders as I just bought mine in late May of this year, but I had much trouble with my shifter too at first, although a little different problem. Yours should have a lock that locks loader in neutral, not allowing it to shift into gear. The lever is below the shifter on the front of the shift tower. I assume you've already made sure that's not the problem?
Check the lever lock already mentioned. Then remove the floor panels and inspect the linkage. There are several pivots/joints that could be rusted up.
Congratulations on yours. Mine seems to be a different issue. Seem to have a leading seal in the transmission
More a low pressure safety. If there is insufficent tranmission oil pressure the safety valve prevents the spools for transmission speed and direction from moving. Is it possible that the transmission pump is sucking air somewhere.?
Took me a bit to get to it but.... I found the issue. Now looking for a transmission or at least a housing. (If anyone has a lead on one... pleaseet me know) Thank you Jim
That's impressive I have never saw that happen before
Jim, was the large belly pan on it? Does anyone know how this might happen? My 1st thought was kinetic damage by something under the loader b/c the belly pan had been removed...
I'd guess it took a big hit or something inside blew apart! I can't tell if the drain plug bung is welded on? If it is you might be able to weld the case.
Looks like internal damage may have caused that. Looks weldable.
Wonder if it was full of water, froze and busted case, just a thought seen it happen, cheers
Maybe water in it froze. Have to determine what material it is regarding repair or replacement.
Good evening Guys! Thank you all for the input. The pan was on it. Dropped the pan and this is what we found. Not sure yet as to why but going to try to find someone to weld it. (Hopefully) It was running fine when I parked it. Still fires right up but it wouldn't go into gear. (Now we know why)
PS We will likely sell Dad's D5 if anyone near Middle Tn is looking for one. I'm sure somewhere on here... dad (Nitelite) told the story of how he came across that one on Father's day. We will keep his 951 on the property at least as long as I'm around but I don't need the dozer.
Use a fair amount of preheat when trying to weld it. Would be good if you made a plate you could bolt onto the housing to help control distortion. Even bolting a piece of channel iron across it would help. Drill holes at the ends of the crack first but determine if it's steel or cast iron with a grinder or even see if you can cut a small bit with a cutting torch.
Yes the pan was on and had to be removed to reveal the issue
It worked when I parked it but now it won't go into gear. Removed the belly pan and this is what I found
Sounds like if it can be welded then it may be worth repairing but from the sounds of it a transmission and install is more than the value of the machine. Looking for a welder currently
It would be almost impossible to do a successful repair without removing it. First determine if it's cast steel and not cast iron.
Yeah trying to get in touch with someone local to take a look at it. From what they are saying... if it can be repaired in place then its worth fixing. If the transmission has to come out then its more than the machine is worth. I would like to repair it but I am only repairing it to sell it. I always planned on selling it but unfortunately the crack has made that more challenging.
If it proves to be weldable steel and you want a decent repair I think it would be extremely difficult to do in place. I'm assuming it would need to be welded overhead. Both sides of the crack need to be beveled for as close to a full penetration weld as possible. It would also have to be jacked up or need to use screw dogs tacked on to line up the two sides. Everything within 6" needs to be completely clean and not let oil run towards the crack. Maybe could be done but need a really experienced welder. Probably need to get the machine up on blocks to have more room to work. Who knows if there is rust or internal damage inside the transmission. I would expect some.
Thank you for the insight. I will definitely share the info. I have not had anyone look at it yet. I know it's a long shot.... just hate to scrap the machine so its worth a shot.