Serial Number 71J3255 made by Caterpillar Mitsubishi Engine serial number tag has the same number as the machine and a " A3110X " Stamped in block below the tag. Not sure of the year, helping a friend who bought a property with this thing dead in the shop. Checked it over quickly to find out he needs new battery cable ends but has 2 new 4D batteries installed. Starter did not engage when tried but needs cables fixed first. It has the glow plug, start all in one switch on it. Not sure if there was even signal to starter as I had clean cloths on and did not check the "S" terminal of the starter. I am assuming this thing was 24 volts, but could not see a tag on starter and it had something done to starter by a guy that is dead. My question is does someone have a picture of the solenoid to know which of the 2 small studs is the S terminal in case it was done wrong. Could of coarse disconnect the one wire I see on solenoid if it comes off but trying to figure out without taking wire off, scared the stud will strip . Big problem being that the unit has sunk into clay enough that there is no going under without a lot of jacking and wood blocking. From Start switch to the starter solenoid is there a neutral safety switch or are they direct.? If pulling back on boom up lever or leave lever in float will the bucket go up if lifted. Would be nice to get bucket up and secured for work on starter with the side arms making it pretty tight. TCtractors, Nige, Pittsburg Cat Man or some other folks would know a few of these questions and wondering if they will share any tid bits. Thanks Simon C
So it is a D330C engine. It may even be a K badged as an L. Won't be the first time. The 71J was built in Japan and approximates to the US-built 85J prefix 955K/L. Problem is that until the Serial Number goes above 4558 where the engine changed to a 3304 there is no info on the system. A Parts Manual would be invaluable if there isn't one with the machine. You need UMX00085, which covers all 71J Serial Numbers up to 4557 even though it says "71J1-Up" on the cover. It wil lalso have an electrical schematic in it (see below). Here's one for sale on eBay . If I was you I'd snap it up at that price. Attached the electrical schematic for the earliest version of the L model (71J4558-5356). It may or may not be close to what you have.
Thanks Nige. I just came off an auction website and seen a good picture of the Battery box so know now that it is what I was quite certain of being 24 volts. The cables were not even on it when I seen it, but I was right on that part. I will look at schematic and figure it out when I go with my service truck. Simon C
Just looked at schematic you sent. Shouldn't take too long to figure out. Think I have it figured all out on paper. Will get into it shortly. Thanks Nige. Simon C
Put bucket in float to lift it Block it and put it back in hold when you get it where you want it
Machine is a 1972 (3076-3975) K model just before they went to the L model that started at 71J3411. 85J series went to the L model in mid 1971.
Yes as Nige said it is a K badged as an L model. It has the 955L logo on the side, made in Japan. So it is 53 years old. Owner is at work for 1 week, then may try again to first make sure it bars over freely. Have to measure to see if I can turn it on the front pulley. Not sure what size bolt holds the pulley on. Glow plugs did not draw so have to see if burn't or no proper connection somewhere. Need to fix some battery cables and see what happens. Simon C
1 1/8
Thanks. So it must be a 3/4 inch fine thread is my guess. Should turn over if nothing is hydro locked. If tight at all will pull glow plugs and check top of pistons for foreign liquids. Did check the oil and it was perfect height, and no fuel smell or antifreeze. Simon C
No start inhibit on any early type CAT loader, if it starts in gear (Powershift) it will not move until put in to Neutral then back into gear, the starter motor trigger wire is the small terminal closest to the track and is usually a white wire, the system is 24 volt with 2 x 12 volt batteries in series Neg =Earth, turning the engine over by hand can be tricky as not much room, the front pulley has small lugs on that respond O.K. ish to flat strip bar turning the engine clockwise from the front, a big fan makes things painful so wear gloves, you have a good chance of using the fan to turn the motor, the heater plugs draw 5 amps each so you are looking for a 20 amp drop on the clock when used, the heater plug power feed wire can easily fall off the heater rail so check this first.
I believe you are correct about the trigger wire being closest to the tracks. This thing has a red wire there on the small terminal, so I will have to trace it back. They changed it at some point. Have seen the glow plug connection faulty on some other units in the past, will check it out. Have clamp meter to check glow plugs one at a time. Will test the start/glow plug switch for voltage drop as it could be junk. Did notice this unit has a resettable breaker which I will check in case it is popped. Thanks for the information. Simon C
Thanks for the idea fo turning the fan by hand to move crank. I have a couple of chain wrenches that might help also. Simon C
Suggest to him to snap up that eBay Parts Manual. At that price, and considering the fact that no information exists in the online system for anything below 71J4558, it would be prudent to have access to parts information at least.
Nige I checked that manual you posted and it was the correct one but it says sold on the add in a small sticker. Will let him know how rare they are and handy for small stuff that he will need. Simon C
UMX00085 is still available new from Cat Publications but the price is over $100. The eBay link was not sold when I first looked at it. As I said earlier there is zero information available online for any S/N below 71J4458.
You already have an Amp gauge in the dash that will tell you if you have a problem with the heater plugs, 20 amp draw is all plugs good, the trip fuse could be a 30 or 40 amp fuse but all it takes is 1 finger to press it to reset, the front crank belt pulley is alloy so be careful with the chain wrench, also that front pulley is on a taper mounting and can take 25-30 ton to press off the crank, I am just refitting an engine into a 955L after I had the crank re-ground and all new innards, they are very simple to work on.
My 955 uses a thermal reset breaker, meaning it's mounted behind the dash and is not visible. It will open if I leave the glow plugs on to long. I turn the key back and it will reset when it cools down (takes a few seconds). Now if the breaker stays open then the motor will not crank Keep telling myself I need to replace it