I have a 980b Wheel Loader and a leak in my torque converter cooler [oil]. It is leaking the t-04 trans oil. I live in northern climate and I was wondering if it would harm the machine to bypass the cooler for the time being, until I find a replacement. I am not doing any hard work for the the loader, just moving some logs and minor work. My machine has the D333 engine [if that matters]. Please let me know if that is a bad idea or not. Thanks!
Someone will be along to tell you it’s fine, no problem. Go ahead and bypass it. Then, someone will advise you not to and explain how it will destroy your transmission. Then, the thread will drift and we will be talking about oil sampling. Which ever way the discussion goes, count me in. I’m committed. But, we will need a serial number. Not that it makes a difference, but a serial number, nonetheless. And we need a picture of the loader and the trees. What species of logs are we trying to move with your old Caterpillar?
That is funny! Ser#89p934 Light, dry balsa logs from one end of the property to the other. Then the machine will be driving 3 miles home on a paved road on a cool day [60 degrees].if you need to know the barometric pressure or humidity, I cannot help you on that important data-lol. Thanks
I cannot imagine that being worse than running at full operating capacity with the same machine in Death Valley or some other hot climate 8 hours a day. If I am wrong on that laymans thought, then that is one bad ass'd TC cooler! [thought I would toss that out there before the fellas start debating--lol Thanks
Well you would need to connect the oil in and oil out of the cooler lines together but you probably knew that. Then cap off the ports on the cooler to keep the coolant from leaking out, again you probably knew that! I'm assuming you have a converter temp gauge that works? With those conditions met I don't see any major reason someone with the intelligence to watch the gauge to have a problem doing light work not to use the machine.
Also need to know: What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?
There's the key right there. Added to that not only does it have to work but it also has to be pretty accurate. And there is the other key factor........... Your proposal is not recommended but if the machine is operated with care then as a temporary measure until you can replace the cooler on a machine doing light work it ought to do the job for you. Part Number is 4N-5909 if you didn't already know and there seem to be quite a few around although at a price North of $2500 it might make you wince a bit. The sleeves and bushing on the top mount would likely also benefit from replacement at the same time.
The 3 miles of roading will likely generate the most heat. High gear high load and high rpm heat them up fast. If you stay in a lower gear and take it easy you should be alright.
The roading will be the hardest work for it. I don't know heavy duty torque converters much, in automotive TC's, cruising speed and higher engine RPM would be less load than stop and go. The worst heating of a TC would be loading in too high a gear and too low of engine RPM. Let the engine rev in a lower gear is the usual suggestion if you're overheating the TC. The 3 miles at ten minutes as fast as it goes might not raise the temp any higher than if you took 15 minutes in lower gear? If you're going up hill, pick a gear that lets the engine reach nearly full speed.
It's a shame it is not equipped with the optional lockup-type converter. That would have been a help in keeping temps down.
LMAO! idk that airspeed but the Falcoln has over 400mph! lol
I havent had the machine long enough to put the trans temp gauge to the test, so I am glad you mentioned that and I will have to make sure it works properly...Thanks
I know they dont give those coolers away. Mine has been leaking for quite a while, but of course, it leaks more after I pressure washed [steam] the buildup of old oil off the cooler. I wonder if a radiator repair shop can repair those, or even if I could re-solder some joints where it may be leaking???
What kind of temperature is "pushing it" with TC? 180+? [ie LIKE hydrostats].
Higher than that I would have thought. Later models the high temp alarm for the converter outlet oil usually goes off at around 120 DegC/250F. Not sure about yours.
Is it somewhat normal for those 980b's to have a slight whine in reverse and in low gear or is it a case of low diff/trans oil levels?
A 50 year old 980B is bound to have some drivetrain whines after the number of hours she's probably done. It's not hard to check oil levels in axles and planetary hubs, and it should be done every 2 - 3 months, because slow, insidious leaks gradually lower the oil levels. Transmission oil level check should be done every day.
A shout out to my peeps in Perth! Scarborough beach was my home and 'Pete's by the Sea' "donar kabab with the lot" was my food for a year! I love WA! Thanks mate!
Since this is a 50 year old rig, one would have to think TQ coolers [aftermarket] are more efficient than the stock cooler now . I am seeing them for $600 bucks or so with the electric fan addition [which makes more sense, given the cooler is mounted to a hot radiator and in the back of the loader where there is not much air flow...25 hundy is a lot to put into a good running 980 that is half a century old. If it is the only option to get a new Cat cooler than it is what it is, but if you think coolers have come a long way and are efficient, then I dont mind an aftermarket cooler hanging off my radiator. The new loaders use electric [or hydraulic] fans--[almost sure].
I am full on the axles and the hubs are the nut on the wheel 'rim' that have to be filled in the 9 o clock position, correct? I did those as well but not sure if there were some other fill plugs to check that would affect the slight whine in low...I hope WA is still " a small town of about a million people " and not too watered down with easterners and "seppo's" [IE septic tank yank's!]--lol Thanks
If you have a good radiator shop close by why not take the cooler to their shop and have them cast an eye over it.?
I want to thank you all for your input and I think I have more peace of mind rolling that 980 back home, if I am able to get a solution for this TC, I will post it when I do. Thanks.
Thanks for that tip, if I have that cooler out, I wont be doing any repairs myself and will take it to a radiator shop for sure...I have a shop manual but havent looked into how much work it is to take that cooler out---I was wondering if coolers have come a long ways or not since that one was installed 50 yrs ago. Sometimes aftermarket makes some sense [for older machines]. Thank you
When you say "cast an eye" over it, what does that entail? Are you referring to a 'lifting eye' or other? Thanks
Figure of speech, have them take a look at it.
lol thanks for that clarification Delmer! I was thinking it isnt that heavy is it? appreciated!
Do you happen to have or know of a pdf or other full repair service shop manual? I bought 2 and they are just basic "testing and adjusting" manuals even though they say 'service manual'.
The complete Service Manual for your particular machine is Cat Publication REG00698. Here's a genuine paper version for sale on Amazon, there may be others on eBay or similar. 980 Caterpillar Service Manual (REG00698): Caterpillar: Amazon.com: Books 980 Caterpillar Service Manual (REG00698) [Caterpillar] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. 980 Caterpillar Service Manual (REG00698) www.amazon.com Yes, but there is a difference between a "radiator shop" and a "good radiator shop" as I'm sure you will appreciate. Your standard run-of-the-mill shop might say they can fix it and end up ruining it. The type of shop you need is one that specializes in oddball stuff, have the capability to tackle anything, and are proud of their work. Apart from the information that the core weighs 100 pounds there is no R&I procedure in the manual for it. Probably because (from what I can see from the parts illustration) removing it appears to be a relatively straightforward process.
Well SIS or at least my access does not have 980B info but here is how they say to fill finals on a 980C: For the axles there should be a plug on the front side of the front axle I think over to the right side of the machine as you are sitting in the operators seat, I also believe the level plug for the rear axle is diagonally the opposite, i.e. left side on back side of axle as this was pretty much standard for many Cat loaders.
I have REG00938 binder only and SENR2300 binder only and Reg00698 so it looks like I have that one, but thank you much anyway for that info! Appreciated!
Thanks. I have those to the full level and I put Mobile 1 75-90wt syn in the hubs, hoping that would not be too thin. Some of the old fluids recommended in my old manuals are obsolete. Thanks again!
I just wanted to thank you all on your professional input. I got my 980b home with no issues whatsoever...I stopped midway and checked temp of TC and it was STILL NORMAL [same with gauge on dash]. I dont know how 'normal' it would have been if I were running it in a hot climate, but it seems to work just fine when the temp is cool. Thanks again!