Hi guys, I'm slowly working out all the levers of my dozer and my hands are going to the correct ones when I'm fresh but I frequently stuff up when I've been going for a while. Just so different to the excavator. My question is on the use of the main clutch lever in my left hand. All the way forward it is disengaged and all the way back it clicks in to the lock position fully engaged. When operating the dozer should I always endeavour to get it fully locked in the engaged position or is it OK to slow things down by having it partially engaged and slipping of the clutch or will this cause it to wear prematurely or is it designed to tolerate that sort of use. With pushing up the trees I have pushed over I feel a bit vulnerable with it locked in if a branch were to come through the front at me I just can't release it without having to push it forward whereas if it was not locked in I would just have to let go of it and things would stop. Also when I park her up for the night does it matter in which position I leave it? This probably seems like a basic question but I know you guys will have the right answer for me. Thanks Ken
Yair . . . wbvs58 . Just imagine it is the clutch on your truck or ute . . . that is to say a bit of judicious slippage to take up the load is okay but in general the clutch should be fully engaged. As you pull it back to the engaged position it should start to bite, take up the load and then go "over centre" with a distinct snap. This over centre snap is quite distinct and should not feel "doughy". There will be an adjustment specification in the manual and the required force to engage the clutch will probably be listed as pounds pull on the lever . . . probably more than you think, maybe fifty pounds or so. The main thing with stick-shift is to always neutralize the gearbox and reengage the clutch if you need to get off and leave the tractor running. As mentioned it is no different to a truck clutch, you don't sit in traffic with your foot on the clutch . . . not so important at night but generally the tractor would have been idling in neutral to cool off and the clutch is left engaged. Control on a stick shift can be exceedingly precise . . . for instance lining up to go through a gate and you need an inch of leftward movement. Assume the machine is in low gear, engine at idle, master clutch disengaged. Pull left hand steering clutch, plant foot hard on left hand brake and ever so gently feather the master clutch thus applying a tad of drive to the RH track. You will find you can use that technique any where in touchy situations like lining up on a float . . . if you hear an operator blipping on the decel or throttle to do precise movements you can be pretty sure he/she is a tyro. Incidentally, steering clutches should never be feathered . . . they are completely engaged or completely disengaged. Cheers.
if it has an oil clutch remember to engage it while idling ,with the main gear lever in neutral
Great info thanks Scrub. d4c, I am not sure on what you mean there. I usually have the throttle set and the gearbox in gear and just disengage that main flywheel clutch which I see has a brake on it and then select either forward or reverse and then re engage it. I am sure from the book it has an oil clutch. I don't know whether I would have enough hands to drop it to idle. Ken
On short stops ie changing blade angles etc I used to leave the FNR lever in neutral and engage the clutch. Now body at that time chipped me for doing bad. Ken, hope those fires in your area weren't to close to your place
He means when you get off the machine for any reason and leave it idling, always put the gearbox in neutral and engage the clutch.
The main clutch on CAT's have a brake fitted to them that is made to function by pressing the clutch lever forward, the clutch linkage is also set with a G/Box interlock control, this locks the gear change when the clutch is engaged/pulled, the clutch should always be placed in the engaged position with the main G/Box placed in or out of gear as needed, the forward-reverse control should never be left in neutral for any time as this stops the top shaft getting the oil feed, so the answer is always keep the clutch locked over and only use the main gearshift to find neutral on the drive, an open clutch causes nothing but wear so try to avoid it. tctractors
Thanks all, I think I am getting a pretty good picture of what I should be doing now. Just gotta have it coming automatically now and remembering. I keep forgetting to turn off the battery isolator, I think the fact that the key is under the seat and not on the dash tricks me up. Ken
I now have about twenty five hours of seat time on the direct drive D4E. I am just now getting to the point that I can operate the machine and think of something else at the same time. After about five hours of running time I begin to tire, make too many mistakes and really have to concentrate on which lever to pull next and which direction to pull it. The brake on my main clutch lever is worn. I have adjusted the linkage it but it still is not right. If I hesitate going through neutral on the FNR lever it will grind the gears and will not engage. I have to turn off the engine, put it into forward or reverse and restart. I just need to remember not to hesitate going through neutral. Where the brake pad fixes to the bell housing there is a worn pivot pin and the hole that it fits into is worn so that it is now oval shaped. I need to take the time to remove the floor boards, stand on my head, and drill out the hole and fab a bushing. My 951-C track loader with power shift is much easier to operate but I do enjoy operating the direct drive dozer and just need more seat time.
I now have about twenty five hours of seat time on the direct drive D4E. I am just now getting to the point that I can operate the machine and think of something else at the same time. After about five hours of running time I begin to tire, make too many mistakes and really have to concentrate on which lever to pull next and which direction to pull it. The brake on my main clutch lever is worn. I have adjusted the linkage it but it still is not right. If I hesitate going through neutral on the FNR lever it will grind the gears and will not engage. I have to turn off the engine, put it into forward or reverse and restart. I just need to remember not to hesitate going through neutral. Where the brake pad fixes to the bell housing there is a worn pivot pin and the hole that it fits into is worn so that it is now oval shaped. I need to take the time to remove the floor boards, stand on my head, and drill out the hole and fab a bushing. My 951-C track loader with power shift is much easier to operate but I do enjoy operating the direct drive dozer and just need more seat time.
I am looking for 1st gear selector directions on Cat D4D Direct Clutch Dozer, there is no markings on selector housing.
Willie, if you have/can get the serial number I'm sure somebody here will be able to look it up. I have not been on a D4D since the 70's.
CAT D4D 60J46623A3260 Year 1969 Also looking for a service manual and parts book, would appreciate.
Not sure if it the right manual. https://www.dropbox.com/s/uncjtpj45...ssembly_Assembly_D4D_Tractor_REG00892_01_.pdf
Well for manuals you can go to this site and put in your S/N to see what is available: https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox= PS your S/N is : 60J46623
Thank you so much. Highly appreciated.