I have a D4H that the engine appears to be stuck. I tried turning it with a long 1/2" drive ratchet and it didn't move. I bought it this way so I don't now the history. I pulled the sump off the oil pan and I'm not seeing anything wrong, but it also looks like the chances of doing an inframe in this machine is pretty slim as it looks like you need to lift the engine to get the rest of the pan off. Anyone with any info on the procedure on these machines? I believe this is a 3304 engine. 9GJ serial number
As I recall the engine is a 3204. No liners and pretty tight underneath there. It's probably easier to work on the engine out of the machine anyway.
+1 to what John said above. Shoehorn fit, you won't do anything meaningful with the engine in the frame. Look around for Cat Publication SENR5290, there might be one on eBay. This is the disassembly & assembly manual for the tractor you have. A new paper version is close to $300, you may be lucky and find something for less. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterp...ICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-overhaul-/202488155643
Right first time. D4H III. 9GJ is the only option on the serial prefix. 3304 confirmed. The good news is that aftermarket parts are everywhere. You could probably build a new one for five grand and still have enough change for a three-piece suit and 2 tickets to see Rudolph Valentino at the Regal.
A 1/2 ratchet isn't much torque to break an engine free if it's been sitting in a damp spot. There's plenty of other things that will lock an engine up too, the drive off the front end, drive off rear end, starter jammed, alternator even. You should be able to feel the give with a locked up alternator, but not always. My point isn't that the engine will magically break loose and run for ever, but that it might run enough to check out the other systems on the dozer, or it might not be internal to the engine at all. I'd at least remove the starter, see if the flywheel will move even a tiny bit with a pry bar gently on the ring gear teeth. Then remove the belts and anything on the front of crank, only then work on removing the engine. Unless you want to try soaking the pistons, what does the exhaust look like on this? all clean and dry or full of mud?
But one word of caution if buying a service manual off E-Bay or where ever be 100% sure it covers the serial number of your machine. Don't assume if it is for a D4H it will be right, Cat is known to make running changes on equipment and being a couple number off on the S/N can be a big problem. I see the manual shown in Nige's link above has 3204 hand written on it but on SIS I'm seeing 3304 as the engine for a 9GJ and other D4H are showing the 3204!
All good point's, I'll do more testing before I start to pull it further apart, I was expecting to find some evidence in the sump.
Thank you for the info, I suspected after I pulled the plate off the bottom it wasn't as easy as some of the skid steer overhauls I've done. I could use a manual anyone come across one.
Well if it is in fact a 3304 that is a fairly basic engine so if you are set on attacking this one I can give you a little help with how to get it out and on the floor. At least then you should be able to open it up and get a good idea what its problem is, then if it looks like it can be saved you would have good reason to invest in the engine manual for the actual repairs.
Another thought would be to try talking to the locl Cat dealer and see if you could get access to SIS maybe limited to just your machine. I don't know if that is possible but might be worth a phone call or stop by and talk to them?
Would someone look up the serial number to confirm which engine is in that machine? I'm sure that all I've ever seen in a D4H was the 3204. I think a machine made for overseas might have the better engine in it.
I have a 9GJ and it has a 3304 rated at 105hp.
Cool, then it's probably worth checking on rebuilding it once they find out what is wrong.
Regarding manuals, here's one on eBay. Before you have a heart attack regarding the price a new version of this same book is currently listed at $1025. It is applicable to your machine, in one of the photos it lists the applicable Serial Numbers. https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=9GJ01234 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Caterpilla...-Service-Repair-Manual-SENR3115-/232187940800
If you figure out how much one would pay for just one road call from a Cat dealer that $473.00 price does not look bad. And if you figure just a gasket set for the engine would come close to that price.........
But why are you and me in a minority thinking like that..? Most people can’t get past the price.... How about the idea of a manual being an investment that you can “cash in” by selling it separately (and probably getting back at least what you paid for it) if the machine is ever sold..?
Thank you for the info! That will be a big help.
It does have a turbo, It was suggested I post some picture of the machine so I’ll attach a couple
I would pull the injectors and see if it would spin over then before I guessed that there was something wrong internally. Then if that wasn't it, I'd pull the head to have a little look see. Then I'd check the hydraulic pump or other auxillary drives that might be locked up. Look to make sure that somebody doesn't have bolt in the flywheel timing hole or a pin in the injection pump timing...
Any chance of posting the full S/N? Unless I missed it the only thing so far is the 9GJ Prefix Also how about giving us some idea of your intentions with this machine. Are you just wanting to get it running and resell it, wanting to get it running for some small jobs around the farm or get it going to use full time on some major projects? You say you don't know the history of the machine, any idea of the last time it was run? Might pay to start with pulling the exhaust manifold and take a look in the ports to see if one is full of water or rust. As someone else said pulling the starter and try turning the flywheel both directions might give you some more info. Also see if you can get the crank to move back and forth end wise?
before you spend any money on the motor I would look at measuring the under carriage , it looks like the chains are about done and the rollers are wore down and starting to run on the pin bosses. just my 2 cents
Also the tracks are tighter than a bow string - well the RH one is anyway..
i bet they took a link out