Building a 3306 cat truck engine and I really need to get started on it this weekend. Looking at the book it calls for thread lubricant 2P2506 for the main bolts and to put on the cam lobes when installed. Naturally after the covid stupidity the local cat dealer here discontinued bei g open on sat morning. What can I substitute for the 2P2505? Looks to be a antisieze compound. That seems rather odd thing to put on cam lobes. There is not much info at all avalible on the interweb thingy as to what one can substitute. I have always used STP as assembly lube. My first 3306 and id kinda like to do it by the book. I may be stuck waiting till monday.
Don't use never seize as it will wash out and go all through the engine. The Cat stuff is black in colour if I recall and comes in a can. Use to see guys put the bolt threads into it and rub the bolt with it. It changes the torque from what I know. Maybe Nige will answer exactly if anything else can be used. Simon C
Sounds like it could be similar to the black moly grease. Yea antisieze sounds like a really bad idea. Id probably be ok to just use STP like i always do. The bigger idea is to torque the fastners wet and not dry. As far as the cam lobes the black moly grease would work fine and i have seen many cam manufacturers sent a small can of it with a new cam. They all say its thier special lube but it looks and feels just like black moly grease.
I worked in Hawaii back in 1992 and we use to use STP for assembly lube. I have used Lubriplate 105 for the last 25 years. Simon C
Right here--moly, the only brand I've used for years. Never liked the 105 Boat Motor lube. *
Awesome thank so much!
2P2506 doesn’t sound right. The 3306 calls for 4C5592 thread lubricant. Which is Loctite graphite-50. The Loctite part number is LB 8504. Don’t substitute. You don’t want to mess up the main cap torque. The camshaft and lifters required 8T-2998, cam shaft and lifter lube, which OSHA banned many years ago. But, I still have a case of it stashed away. I have no idea what the cool dealership kids use to lube their shafts with. Any of the name brand moly products such as Comp or Loctite LB 8028 should be fine.
2P-2506 serviced to 4C-5592 back in 1999. It must be a very old book that @workshoprat92 has. 4C-5592 was always Loctite Graphite 50 but now it's sold in the original Loctite packaging instead of a Cat-branded tube. The product linked by @Truck Shop above is probably as near as damnit the same as Loctite 50. Cat got out of the specialist lubes and adhesives product line about 10 years ago. Here's the full list of equivalents/cross-references.
Paste for threads--assembled bolt torque--not for anything else. International Compound #2, part 1#5198563-----AKA, Detroit Peanut Butter. *
Kind of surprised no one jumped on my slam of lubra plate 105 as {Boat Motor Lube}. The old tubes of 105 back in the 80's had a image of a outboard boat motor on the front. Same crappy lube with two different numbers. * Which caused my image of the typical owner stuck in the middle of the lake/river yanking the starter rope with a haze of two stroke smoke lingering after the just rebuilt pos took a dump.----------two stroke boat motors, another two stroke disaster. *
I do already have a can of the detroit peanut butter. I should be ok using that on the threaeds. The crc product I can get today at oriellies. The loctite 50 looks like i will have to order online or wait till monday. The book does say to use the 2p2506 on the cam lobes. I can post a pic of that later. Would you use the crc product on the cam lobes?
Absolutely----that's what it really does well at, especially flat tappet cams. If one compares it to a straight camshaft assembly lube like all the aftermarket high performance cam manufactures it's a really close mixture. It's all I use, I coat the entire camshaft, head bolts, main bolts, engine bearings, all valve train related parts & pieces with it. The only reason I don't care for 105 is IF a engine sets for a long period of time after assembly it has a tendency to separate, the oils will run out of it leaving a chalky paste. That's what I have found, your mileage my vary.
Thanks! Im going to get a tube of it as soon as O'Reilly opens this morning! Over the years you and Nige have been a great source of knowledge and help! Can't thank you enough!
I grew up with lubriplate. I still use it with no issues. There are other products that work as well or better.........I just go with what I know.
Arrg there mate'y, I be rounding the horn with me trusty tube of boat motor lube.
I agree about lubriplate drying out if the component is put into storage and not used right away
I mentioned the Lubriplate 105 because it was supplied free where I work and did ok. It does separate as stated, but I ran all the assembled engines immediately, so no problem for me. Have used other products, as long as nothing runs short of lube before start up, that is what matters. Simon C
https://api.crcindustries.com/auto-services/get-pds/SL3331
No doubt. I’ve used a lot of it myself, over the years. Every podunk NAPA and general store has a tube on the shelf. It’s easily available. It gets gross when it ages and turns yellow. Working for my former employer, a Fiske distributor, we moved pallets of it.
I’ll add, the packaging is just the right size, it’s easy to bill out on an invoice and the product stays clean, while using it in the mud and the blood. It travels well on air cargo. I’ve even taken it through TSA with no second looks. But, a glance in my go-box confirms there is a new, 10 oz tube of black CRC EP Sta-Lube ready and willing to lube any shaft that needs attention in the Alaskan bush, at a moments notice.
Oh my! That was rather Nasty--Nasty must be said in high pitch.
So oddly enough I went out to my shop and looked in my chemical cabinet to retrieve my stp and found i had a brand new black tube of the crc engine assembly lube product. Now I kinda sort of remember sending the wife to the parts store for STP and she came back with it after the parts guy convinced her thats what i wanted. I was going to exchange it but never did! Anyhow the crank is installed. Block setting back upright and trying to get organized to check the cylinder liner protrusions.
Nothing like a good HEF thread on veener shlider dressing-----------it brings out all the top dogs to discuss the fineries of shlick'n shlacker lube, with nods from the haystack crowd.
As to liner protrusion, that is usually something i check before anything else, right after upper and lower counterbore condition and deck surface flatness in case the block counterbores have to be machined. I would be ticked off if i had to pull the crank back out to send the block in for machining
Glad you brought that up 56, I thought about it, but someone else needs to be bad Bob once in awhile.
Where the hell is Bluox anyway? He would have lined all you guys out.
Block has already been decked. We tried to get someone to do it in the truck but thier tool would not fit with the fuel pump installed and some other issues. By the time it was said and done we opted to just pull the whole damn thing and get the block decked. #6 still had to be counterbored and a repair ring used. They guy that tried to do the block in the truck started with. Number 6 only to find he couldn't do the rest. Decking the block would not remove what he already screwed up! Had block decked and #6 counterbore re cut.
I would think the correct assembly lube properly applied would be paramount to having a long life rebuild. It's not something you'd want to skip because you ran out or didn't have the proper lube on hand.