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cheater pipes torque

jimg984 ยท 2020-04-03 22:03

1. Cheater Pipes This thread has got a lot of great tips in it. I read this before we repacked a couple of big tilt cylinders on our Dresser. Here's a tip you probably already know... Our piston nut was to be tightened to 1500 to 1550 ft/lbs. If your using a cheater pipe here's a quick way to find out how to tighten to proper spec Torque = Force x Distance If you apply 200 lbs (Force) on the end of a cheater pipe thats 10' (Distance) you're putting out 2000 ft/lbs of Torque. If you need to know where to grab the pipe to apply your force, use this: Distance = Torque/Force So if you need to torque at 1550 ft/lbs. Take 1550 and divide by 200 (Force). This will give you the distance you need to apply force = 7.75 feet from the nut. This should give you 1550 ft/lbs

Replies12
  1. #1Vetech632020-04-04 07:57

    Oh Lord............its algebra! I sucked at math. I use the 8 foot cheater and hang my 250 lbs off the end while I bounce a couple of times method.

  2. #2Jonas3022020-04-04 09:11

    Another method is to mark the nut and bring it back to the same spot or even a combination of both methods

  3. #3NH575E2020-04-04 09:58

    Came across these digital torque adapters you can use a 3/4" drive handle on. Measure up to 1000nm/750 lb ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW/ref=psdc_559968_t1_B07JYW34CM

  4. #4Swetz2020-04-04 10:20

    I like that adaptor NH575E...Would just wonder how accurate it is. Overall, the interviews were pretty good for the 3/4" size. That being said, I swore off battery powered torque wrenches when my 3/8" Snap-On turned off during a torque of a AC compressor clutch (I had no idea, I was just pushing on the handle waiting for the beep) and I snapped it off. I think over time the terminals got dirty, and when you push your hand is on the end cap. It is worthless now! I did take the batteries (AA) out each time I used it too... I guess it is back to jimg984's manual calculations

  5. #5Tinkerer2020-04-04 10:32

    Me to, Vetech63, Someone should start a poll on Hef, just to determine how many of us do it like that.

  6. #6joe--h2020-04-04 11:21

    Tighten it til it breaks, then back off half a turn. Joe H

  7. #7RZucker2020-04-04 11:28

    I've used this method with a 2,000# hydraulic scale and the Autocrane.

  8. #8Bls repair2020-04-04 11:51

    I use the G R U N T method .I pull on pipe till I grunt 3 times.

  9. #9excavator2020-04-04 12:29

    I had an older mechanic tell me a story one time, he and another guy were rebuilding final drives on a 977 Cat. Each guy was doing one side and the other guy was finishing up abit before this guy. If I remember right the rolling torque needed to be set at 2000 ft lbs. This guy noticed the other was missing and looked over at his service truck, the other guy was shoving wrenches in his pockets. When asked what he was doing he said, "200 lbs on the end of a 10 ft pipe, I only weight 180 so I'm putting 20 lbs of tools in my pockets."

  10. #10kshansen2020-04-04 16:31

    While that might be good you have to trust that the last guy knew what he was doing! But I guess if the machine worked fine for, say ten years, the way the last guy did the job it should be good for another ten years when you are done!

  11. #11John C.2020-04-05 20:26

    Problem with the cheaters and beaters is when something breaks and all that kinetic energy gets dissipated into skin and bones. I have a few scars showing my in depth experience with sudden releases of pent up energy.

  12. #12boone2020-04-06 13:51

    When I read this, I had deja-vu. Glad you thought it was worth posting. There's a good bit of useful stuff in this old thread. HeavyEquipmentForums