Hello I'm working on a Clark IT40 forklift. The power steering pump mounts to the rear of the generator as my 57 Chevy does. I would like to know what fluid type it calls for. Does the hydraulics use plain old hydraulic fluid? I believe it to be a Continental engine, flat head with updraft carb. I would like to know the tune up specs as far as timing advance, dwell setting etc. Thanks for your thoughts
P/Steer - Dexron /Dexron II Hyd oil - AW32 Hyd Oil or 10W non detergent motor oil It will be a Continental. Probably an F162/F163. Prestolite or Delco distributor. Dist advance is centrifugal internal. Pull plugs if all same brand, and get new. Gap on .030. NAPA store can provide fluids, points,condenser, cap, rotor and probably new wires by matching present ones. Install ignition parts. Timing order is 1-3-4-2. Time off TDC #1. Crank an let run to warm for idle. Loosen distributor hold down bracket SLIGHTLY. Gently twist distributor Left and right to find the "sweet sport" and engine just "rolls". Then adjust carb a little finer/idle air. Between these you should crank easily, idle smoothly, and have adequate power. IT40's were one of the most simple and rugged all rough/terrain lifts Clark ever built.
Thanks so much TD My 57 uses Type A and some others I have had used Dextron in a pump like this. I just don't want to mix and match. The PS isn't working right and is hissing and groaning. If I fill it to the top where it says to it belches out until the pump is half full or so. You wouldn't happen to know if there is a screen or filter inside the main hydraulic tank? There is a round access bolted into the tank where the hoses connect.
Can answer all of most all. Please email me at: [email protected] . This is so we may communicate without tying up the thread so much. I worked for a Clark dealer seven years. Ran our own independent 1979 to 1992. For now: Your problem is probably air in the POWER STEER system: Jack the steer axle up and block it free of floor. Add "some" Dexronn to the pump. Some is defined as enough to make it work, but not blow it all out. With steer free of floor, "some Dexron in pump to function, engine idling,... Gently turn the steering wheel either way to get steering movement. As you get movement, observe. You should lower you pump tank level, but get bubble, squirts, froth, etc in return, This is a sort of touchy/feely stage. Assuming air in the system (hoses-actual steer cylinder), it will exhaust to the pump tank and your fluid will be lower. May need to replenish fluid before reaching the direction stop on axle for that way. Just add add and continue till full stop that way. Then... Start all this over steering the opposite way. This should clear you to steering OK without the noise/jerking. If it is not this, you have a pinhole/loose clamped fitting on your return/intake side. There is a filter in the tank. It has nothing to do with your steering on any IT 40/50 I've seen. Please email. Will go into detail on your engine ID, tune up, fuel (gas/LP), advice on the lift/tilt cylinders, steer axle problems. etc. [email protected] Roger Johnson Tupelo, MS 3801 Zip i 38801
I will take you up on your offer for sure. I questioned the hydraulics separate from the PS. The PO installed an inline filter between the valve and tank. I'm draining and flushing as the fluid is milky. I'll pull that out an check nothing is clogged up. thanks
Yikes Looks like I need a part number
Questioned past... or still question? Thinking aloud.- The Power Steer Pump on generator-Pressure hose from back of it down to a double acting vickers cylinder assembly. Short drag link from sector to side of cylinder. Big ball/socket arrangement trips valve internal in cylinder and boost/power steers you. Then a low pressure return hose from the cylinder valve back up to the bottom of the pump. Separate closed loop. Does PO equal prior owner??? The VALVE and THE TANK. Again thinking out loud and memory. There is a large hydraulic (THE) tank. It has a porthole cover that outlets to a large suction hose that feeds the Vickers hydraulic pump. This pump is mounted on the side of the engine and driven off gears in front cover. This pump is pressure routed to (THE) valve that functions to operate your lift and tilt (2 spool) or those and a side shift attachment (3 spool) or as many as you want to add. The hydraulic oil filter will be underneath this porthole cover. It will be a round pleated paper filter (looks like a small bundt pan) with a metal cap. Inside is a big spring. holding a large steel ball down over a hole as check/bypass function. Action here is no one ever drains the hyd tank and replaces the filter. Simply because by the time the filter is getting clogged, hoses have busted, cylinders leaked of repacked, oil lost, enough oil added to work. Oil still looks good. The filter clogs, the ball lets it bypass, still works and it goes on. If you are dumping the hyd oil, get a Clark filter for sure. The one in it is probably the one that came in it. You need to crack the lift cyl line and the tilts to flush out the "milky" oil trapped in them. Sorry for lecture detail, but just wanted to clarify what I was describing. Good luck with it. because
I was in my "book" to you before I got the "used" filter pic. Depending on where you are in MO, call your nearest Clark dealer, give parts the SN# of the truck. He can get a part number and price the part. That is accurate, quick on shipping. Or if you get the number, go to NAPA and they can get. MAybe cheaper.
Email me the serial # of the truck. May be able to get some detail from a Clark source.
That's a Fram filter number 1661 A big hunk of gasket material hung in the relief spring, no telling whats floating around in there headed to the spool valve.
That was a real mess of mud. Get your clean out done and obtain a filter and things will look better. Needs a lot of flushing thru the whole system.
I've done enough to get it going and make a victory lap around the shop. I will now be able to float back through it and make some improvements knowing it is a runner and worthwhile. The brakes work well but I want to bleed them to push out rust for good measure. The parking brake band is maxed out and needs relined. The steering pump is noisy but working. I have a leak at the top of the steering box. The rag joint is poor. I'll see if I can source a seal when I find a rag joint. Where is a good place to look? The steering column is loose inside the tube, I wonder if it had bearings or bushings at some point? I cleaned the carb out and put a kit in it. The linkage is only allowing for about a fourth or third of throttle movement. I don't think it is connected the way it is supposed to be. I need to know a bit more about how to adjust the carb . Starts easy, seems lazy. It had an electric fuel pump when I got it but it filled the engine with gas, it actually pushed gas up till it came out the exhaust at the top of the motor. I sent the vacuum pump off to be rebuilt but had no luck getting it to work on the engine. It works in your hand(squirted myself in the face). Right now I have a push mower tank just gravity fed and it doesn't like up grade much. The original tank is a rust pit and integral with the machine. I will source a larger tank to give me more fuel weight and see if that works out ok. The PO had installed an inline hydraulic filter so I replaced it. So it gets filtered before it makes it to the new main tank filter. I thought I would leave it on until I had run the machine for a bit and cycled the hydraulics several times as it was such a mess and then just remove it. The kingpins are terribly worn. Are they serviceable on the machine? Can I knock them out punch and hammer? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXd1GQI4i3A&feature=youtu.be
I'm hoping when I pull the steering shaft off to get at the rag joint I'll be able to get the seal out and find a new one. There is an adjustment screw on the box. Does that help to take up some play? Or is it there just for set up of the gears.... When I start the motor the steering can drag the starter down unless the steering wheel is centered in the steering box. Turning the wheel a bit back and forth finds the sweet spot where it all relaxes.
I'm not saying I need full throttle but I've got some rerouting to do to get there.
Here is the adjustment screw on the gearbox. I'm wondering if that can be adjusted to help "center" it when not using the steering I whines and groans until you physically center the steering wheel. It won't steer sitting still, works great in motion.
Actually it will steer sitting but not at idle. I put in a new rag joint and found the old one broken. It came off the shelf at Orielly's and wasn't exactly the right size. I ground a little off to allow the "L" brackets to engage. It's much better off now.
There is a small amount of play in this joint....what's it called? I'm wondering if it could be shimmed just a tad.
Yes "Drag link ball joint-Sector end" the world over... Put a catch pan or spread rag beneath. Remove cotter pin Unscrew threaded internal cap. With magnet, pull out wafer (flat-cupped). Lift/shove drag link off ball stud. With magnet, pull out the inside wafer (flat-cupped) With magnet, pull out the remains... A short 2 of 3 curls heavy stiff spring. If complete, will be ground flat on each end. If not, it is broken, go back in and get the pieces.
As a side note the wheel studs on the left drive axle are backwards thread
Been too busy to do any thing much. I had a tire off the bead and couldn't get it seated so I removed and took to a tire store. Attached a fuel tank, kinda hillbilly, but it works for now.